Wet looking wax over sealants
- Thread starter Goodloe3
- Start date
rockford33
New member
- Oct 12, 2010
- 162
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What about OCW? I am looking for the same thing and was going to try OCW since I keep reading good things about it. Is it wet looking?
-Neil
-Neil
Not nearly as wet looking as Duragloss Aqua Wax. I've been messing around with OCW here lately and I love it! It's very bright and glossy.
PA DETAILER
Well-known member
- Mar 5, 2011
- 6,017
- 251
i did a coat of the 845 over the DP poli coat sealant. results were amazing! ended up looking like a deep pool of water. go for it!
rockford33
New member
- Oct 12, 2010
- 162
- 0
Hmmm, I have some DGAW and don't remember it being very wet looking, but it has been awhile (probably about 6 months) since I have applied it due to weather. I was looking into getting some OCW hoping/thinking it would be wetter looking and everyone seems to like it also. Both OCW and DGAW appear easy to apply and don't stain trim. I have dark blue and dark red cars (both called pearls, not metallic paint jobs) that I was looking for a good spray wax to top over my PB's EX-P that was wet looking. I like spray waxes so I can quickly and easily top after every or every other wash to boost the protection and make the sealant last longer. Any other wet looking waxes for going over a sealant, but are in spray form?
Thanks,
Neil
rockford33
New member
- Oct 12, 2010
- 162
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I used it on a dry car. I don't recall if I actually every tried to use it while drying the car. wonder if that would make a difference?
Daniel Ellow
New member
- Mar 22, 2011
- 11
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As per my opinion Cherry Wax is one of the best wax for "Wet Look". This cherry scented wax gives finest "wet look" and provides deep gloss protection on paints.
silverfox
New member
- Oct 5, 2010
- 2,813
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If you must...Collinite 915(or 845)...but seriously, you don't need a sealant if you use Collinite because it will outlast most sealants without even trying...so next time around...just use Collinite after polishing...save yourself time and money (not to mention the beautiful looking show car finish that only a carnuba wax can obtain). Even the most serious sealant lovers can't resist putting a carnuba wax over the top for that show car look.
I did a car yesterday after a long winter worth of every possible thing you can imagine. The car had Collinite on it from last October. I had to clay the stuff off, then polish with a light cutting pad to remove all of it.
One thing you won't like about Collinite 915...you can pretty much throw the buffing pad away when you are done...because I defy you to find anything that will take that wax out of the pad (so you can imagine the protection that's on your car). I've tried APC at full strength, dawn at ridiculous concentrations...no luck getting that wax out of the pad. Collinite is not for anybody that enjoys waxing your car often..in fact once its on, you will have to WORK to get it off, and isn't that why we protect the paint in the first place?
I did a car yesterday after a long winter worth of every possible thing you can imagine. The car had Collinite on it from last October. I had to clay the stuff off, then polish with a light cutting pad to remove all of it.
One thing you won't like about Collinite 915...you can pretty much throw the buffing pad away when you are done...because I defy you to find anything that will take that wax out of the pad (so you can imagine the protection that's on your car). I've tried APC at full strength, dawn at ridiculous concentrations...no luck getting that wax out of the pad. Collinite is not for anybody that enjoys waxing your car often..in fact once its on, you will have to WORK to get it off, and isn't that why we protect the paint in the first place?
I see you have 13 posts so I see you are new to AG and I am guessing new to detailing? If not, I apologize and you can disregard the rest of this post. If so, I just wanted to inform you of a mistake numerous newbs often make in assuming they can give their paint great shine and wetness just with sealants and waxes.
What make up 95% of the look of paint is not the sealant or wax you use, but what you did beforehand. The incredible shine and wetness you see on the cars on this forum came from the claying and polishing the detailer did before applying the sealant or wax, the sealant or wax just adds a small amount.
In otherwords, if we were to take any car off the street, wash it and run a tape down the middle of it and you took one half and used the best and most expensive sealants and/or waxes Auto Geek sold and a knowledgable detailer took the other side and only had clay, a polisher (rotary or dual action), a selection of pads, a few polishes, an NO sealants or waxes; in the end, the detailer's side would look light years better than yours because he/she fullying cleaned bonded contaminants off the paint (by claying) and leveled the paint (by polishing) giving the paint a mirror like surface.
So, saying this, I don't want to make it sound like I am down playing the role sealants and waxes have in detailing, their role however is more in protection than appearance. When it comes to perfecting the appearance of the paint, claying and polishing does 95% of that work.
If you are a newb, I hope this helped like it did for me four years ago when I discovered detailing. If I was wrong and you are not a newb, oops. Sorry about the bad assumption.
What make up 95% of the look of paint is not the sealant or wax you use, but what you did beforehand. The incredible shine and wetness you see on the cars on this forum came from the claying and polishing the detailer did before applying the sealant or wax, the sealant or wax just adds a small amount.
In otherwords, if we were to take any car off the street, wash it and run a tape down the middle of it and you took one half and used the best and most expensive sealants and/or waxes Auto Geek sold and a knowledgable detailer took the other side and only had clay, a polisher (rotary or dual action), a selection of pads, a few polishes, an NO sealants or waxes; in the end, the detailer's side would look light years better than yours because he/she fullying cleaned bonded contaminants off the paint (by claying) and leveled the paint (by polishing) giving the paint a mirror like surface.
So, saying this, I don't want to make it sound like I am down playing the role sealants and waxes have in detailing, their role however is more in protection than appearance. When it comes to perfecting the appearance of the paint, claying and polishing does 95% of that work.
If you are a newb, I hope this helped like it did for me four years ago when I discovered detailing. If I was wrong and you are not a newb, oops. Sorry about the bad assumption.
Try a degreaser such as Megs SuperDegreaser. I used to use APC and Dawn to clean pads and had the same frustrations as you. On a tip from another detailer, I gave SuperDegreaser a try and have looked back since. It really breaks down polish residue, sealants and waxs in your pads so they wash out. Just make sure you get all the degreaser out of your pads before you use them again. You can rinse the heck out of them or wash them with APC or Dawn. Doing so has always gotten the SuperDegreaser out for me.
Alot of reviews I have read said that it is a good wax but very difficult to remove. What is your experience using this wax?Collinite 845 is some really amazing stuff!!rops:
BillyJack
Active member
- Aug 14, 2010
- 1,227
- 0
I've only been a Collinite user for the past year and I've never had an issue with removal. I use it out of the sun, in my garage and spread it so thin you can barely see it. As with many other better waxes, thin, thin, thin is most important. I apply by hand using a foam pad. Feed your pad with a few pea-sized drops for each panel, no more. I go around the whole car before removal.
BTW, I use a dedicated pad just for 845. I'll toss it into a bucket of Dawn for a few days and rinse, but it still doesn't melt away the 845, so I'll just bag the pad when dry and consider it somewhat pre-primed for the next time.
I've never really thought of 845 as a "beauty wax", but it's the most durable stuff I've ever used. I clayed and waxed my winter driver in early December and after a Pittsburgh winter it's still beading well without ever having spent a night in the garage.
Soon, my "garage queen" El Camino is coming out of hibernation, so I'll play with a few toppers to see if it makes much difference. I have Meguiar's M16 and M26 in stock, as well as Griot's "Best of Show", and Optimum's wax, but I'm not really expecting any miracles.
Bill
PS. There are a lot of damn good products in the AG store, but I don't think I'll ever make a wiser purchase than my $15 bottle of 845.
BTW, I use a dedicated pad just for 845. I'll toss it into a bucket of Dawn for a few days and rinse, but it still doesn't melt away the 845, so I'll just bag the pad when dry and consider it somewhat pre-primed for the next time.
I've never really thought of 845 as a "beauty wax", but it's the most durable stuff I've ever used. I clayed and waxed my winter driver in early December and after a Pittsburgh winter it's still beading well without ever having spent a night in the garage.
Soon, my "garage queen" El Camino is coming out of hibernation, so I'll play with a few toppers to see if it makes much difference. I have Meguiar's M16 and M26 in stock, as well as Griot's "Best of Show", and Optimum's wax, but I'm not really expecting any miracles.
Bill
PS. There are a lot of damn good products in the AG store, but I don't think I'll ever make a wiser purchase than my $15 bottle of 845.