richy
New member
- Mar 27, 2007
- 5,158
- 0
The customers had talked to me about doing this car in the winter. They were as excited as I was to see it get transformed. The notable challenges were the wheels and the paint. Typical rock hard GM clear too did not make it any easier.
I discovered a neat method to help with the steam cleaning too for nasty surfaces...more on that in a bit.
Here's how it arrived to me:
BEFORES:
Wheels:
A usual amount of time for me to do wheels/wells/barrels and tires is about an hour. The barrels and the faces had surface rust on them which was a challenge to remove. It took 3 hours just to do the wheels, wash and clay. It took me an hour alone just to do the barrels. The surface rust on them took a combo of Megs WB and Zep Citrus to remove:
The wheel barrels and faces were cleaned with WB and a RG brush followed by Zep Citrus to neutralize the acid. The tires were cleaned with Zep Purple and the wells were cleaned with Zep Citrus and the large EZ wheel brush. Finished result after washing. Most of the surface rust on the faces had been removed but they still needed polishing. That was done subsequently with M205.
FOAM/WASH/CLAY:
Foamed with Duragloss 901 followed by a 2 bucket method wash with 901. It was immediately clayed after with Clay Magic blue. I had to use the microwave again to get it as supple as I wanted. There was lots of tar on this car that the clay removed, mostly along the bottom of the panels.
OUTSIDE AFTER CLAY:
CHIPS AND SCRATCHES:
PAINT CORRECTION:
The first thing I did was the stained area. No idea what it was, but my Duragloss beta sample of the chemical compound got rid of it using my rotary and a B & S white pad.
To correct this rock hard GM clear, several different combos were tried until I got to my 3M white wool pad and either M105 or PG depending on how bad the area was. The scratches got wet sanded with 2000 grit, followed by a Magic Eraser. The correction following the wool was M105 with yellow B & S then M205 with white B & S pad. All these stages were done with the Dynabrade rotary. The last step was 3M Ultrafina using a blue B & S pad and my DA. Multiple (and I mean multiple) touch ups were done after the polishing. This was done section by section to allow it the greatest amount of time to dry. The customers had been requested to bring touch up paint with them.
Here is the rear deck corrected without any LSP:
The head and tail lights were polished with M105 and the yellow pad followed by M205 and a the blue pad.
CQuartz Protection:
After being polished, the car was re-washed using a combo of Duragloss 901 and dish soap to remove any oils.
The wheels, glass and paint all got CQ'd. The paint received 2 coats. As mentioned, the chrome was polished with M205 and a mf after being washed. The CQ was applied with makeup pads and allowed to dry for an hour. The garage was about 60°F at the time. Here's what it looked like in the drying stage:
I discovered a neat method to help with the steam cleaning too for nasty surfaces...more on that in a bit.
Here's how it arrived to me:
BEFORES:
Wheels:
A usual amount of time for me to do wheels/wells/barrels and tires is about an hour. The barrels and the faces had surface rust on them which was a challenge to remove. It took 3 hours just to do the wheels, wash and clay. It took me an hour alone just to do the barrels. The surface rust on them took a combo of Megs WB and Zep Citrus to remove:
The wheel barrels and faces were cleaned with WB and a RG brush followed by Zep Citrus to neutralize the acid. The tires were cleaned with Zep Purple and the wells were cleaned with Zep Citrus and the large EZ wheel brush. Finished result after washing. Most of the surface rust on the faces had been removed but they still needed polishing. That was done subsequently with M205.
FOAM/WASH/CLAY:
Foamed with Duragloss 901 followed by a 2 bucket method wash with 901. It was immediately clayed after with Clay Magic blue. I had to use the microwave again to get it as supple as I wanted. There was lots of tar on this car that the clay removed, mostly along the bottom of the panels.
OUTSIDE AFTER CLAY:
CHIPS AND SCRATCHES:
PAINT CORRECTION:
The first thing I did was the stained area. No idea what it was, but my Duragloss beta sample of the chemical compound got rid of it using my rotary and a B & S white pad.
To correct this rock hard GM clear, several different combos were tried until I got to my 3M white wool pad and either M105 or PG depending on how bad the area was. The scratches got wet sanded with 2000 grit, followed by a Magic Eraser. The correction following the wool was M105 with yellow B & S then M205 with white B & S pad. All these stages were done with the Dynabrade rotary. The last step was 3M Ultrafina using a blue B & S pad and my DA. Multiple (and I mean multiple) touch ups were done after the polishing. This was done section by section to allow it the greatest amount of time to dry. The customers had been requested to bring touch up paint with them.
Here is the rear deck corrected without any LSP:
The head and tail lights were polished with M105 and the yellow pad followed by M205 and a the blue pad.
CQuartz Protection:
After being polished, the car was re-washed using a combo of Duragloss 901 and dish soap to remove any oils.
The wheels, glass and paint all got CQ'd. The paint received 2 coats. As mentioned, the chrome was polished with M205 and a mf after being washed. The CQ was applied with makeup pads and allowed to dry for an hour. The garage was about 60°F at the time. Here's what it looked like in the drying stage:
rops:
