What should I do about tearing clearcoat?

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2010 Camaro had it entirely repainted with a custom stripe design.

I had it done be a very reputable shop, but i guess they got lazy on my car or something. The shop has been sold and I have no way of contacting them anymore, so I'll just see what you guys think. Could this present future issues or should I just leave it? It really isnt noticeable, I'm just worried about rust or further peeling of the clear, and for the money I paid this is seriously ridiculous.

Rear Passenger Quarter Panel
crap1z.jpg

Trunk Lid Meeting with Driver Side Quarter Panel

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It will become an issue. It needs to be repainted.
 
A paint coating like CQ or Opti-coat should hold the clearcoat from chipping off from that spot!
 
The entire car? There's no way I can afford another $4,500 paint job.
I'd assume because of the fat stripe I have down the side, if i repaint one panel I have to repaint the others.
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:mad: man that burns me up, that sucks!
Sick Ride!

The Opti Coat maybe, might slow it down...
 
Not the whole car. The issue is the clear coat. The affected area can be sanded and reshot.
 
maximus20895 said:
You should not have to pay for it. Make them do it right.
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The shop was sold and I really cant find a way to contact the owner. The damage isnt really visible unless you get right up to it, I just want to stop future damage or fix the current damage. I'm visiting a painter from Autorama tomorrow. Someone who might actually know what hes doing.
 
Comment said:
This stuff? Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0 Permanent Paint Coating FREE BONUS

I apply this stuff on the bare paint and the edge of the torn clear, and it will stop the failing or whatevers going on?
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If you apply it as directed in the opti-coat discussion thread, the clear will stop chipping off.

Corey did a test of it on clearcoat failing paint and the coating held the edges of the clearcoat down!

Check this out - http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ew-extreme-testing-opti-coat-2-0-cquartz.html
 
that right there is a tapeline from when they taped the car. it will start cracking as time goes. just get some quotes on how much it would be for reclearing the car. no need for paint, just clear.
 
That's not good :mad: It will have to be touched up

They may have hit that spot to hard with the buffer, to early after paint.
 
I just hit a small dime sized CC peeling from the corner of the Q-panel where it meets the taillight with touch up clear coat. It's not smooth because I didn't bother wet sanding or polishing, but it's not that noticeable and has been holding for two years now.
I figured I had nothing to lose and the cost of a repaint to gain.
 
93fox said:
that right there is a tapeline from when they taped the car. it will start cracking as time goes. just get some quotes on how much it would be for reclearing the car. no need for paint, just clear.
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FYI... Clear coat is paint with no pigments...paint is paint.

The areas being redone on the car would still need to be sanded to level out the existing clear as well as wet sanded to remove orange peel in the paint.
 
DaGonz said:
FYI... Clear coat is paint with no pigments...paint is paint.

The areas being redone on the car would still need to be sanded to level out the existing clear as well as wet sanded to remove orange peel in the paint.
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I know that the area affected will need to be sanded and leveled in order for refinishing. But im saying that if the paint is not affected and its just the clear, then it can be recleared. They can even blend the clear and no need for the whole quarter panel to be recleared.
 
93fox said:
I know that the area affected will need to be sanded and leveled in order for refinishing. But im saying that if the paint is not affected and its just the clear, then it can be recleared. They can even blend the clear and no need for the whole quarter panel to be recleared.
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dont blend clear and expect it to last. when you blend the clear you will have no uv protection on that edge and will eventually peel. only reason anyone should consider blending clear is too save money. if u brought it to me i would (assuming its a factory color) just sand and spot that and clear the rest of the quarter. you can tape off that stripe on the side when basing and re-clear over it. worst case senario is a subtle "edge" where stripe is. FYI you cant just put clear back over the failing clear and expect it to look the same. from your post that sounds like what you're saying.
 
Jhaight11 said:
dont blend clear and expect it to last. when you blend the clear you will have no uv protection on that edge and will eventually peel. only reason anyone should consider blending clear is too save money. if u brought it to me i would (assuming its a factory color) just sand and spot that and clear the rest of the quarter. you can tape off that stripe on the side when basing and re-clear over it. worst case senario is a subtle "edge" where stripe is. FYI you cant just put clear back over the failing clear and expect it to look the same. from your post that sounds like what you're saying.
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If you are talking about putting a tapeline in the are and then just paint and clear it and then buff it out then yes it will peel, and that is hack work. Blending clear can last if done correctly. It takes good knowledge and there will be UV protection. The area that is affected should be sanded with 600girt if its going to be repainted and the surrounding area with 800grit or 1000grit. the paint is then shot on the area that is affected. once its ready to clear, Medium temp reducer is to be shot around the area that is sanded and the previous clear. then the clear should be shot just around the are that was repainted and give it its flash time. After that another coat of clear should be applied but this time its suppose to extend out a little further to where the other clear is. once that is done then Medium temp reducer is to be shot right away around the same area where you shot the reducer. this way the new clear you shot will start to blend in and bite into the the clear that is around the area that was just painted. If desired another coat of clear can be shot and extended out just a little further and then right away apply another coat of reducer around the area that the reducer has been applied. Then once its done, its suppose to sit for about 20 minutes and then its to be baked. once its baked the the area that was blended can be wet sanded and buffed along with the whole panel. Doing it this way there is no way on earth the clear will start to peel. this is the correct and only way of blending clear. i have never put a tape line around an area that is going to be blended because i know that hard edge is not going to have any protection and the chances of peeling are high. but like i said, someone that knows how to blend clear properly can do a good job and expect it to last. Now blending clear is cost effective and its a little cheaper. but personally, if i had to repaint and area in a quarter panel id re clear the entire quarter panel. Ive only done blending when i dont have that much clear to do a whole panel.
 
i have never (even by PPG professionals) heard of this. maybe it will work maybe it wont i dont know but my only concern is the blending of the clear with fade out thinner (reducer) will smooth the transition between new and old clear. which has (to my knowledge) 0 uv protection. but i will ask my paint rep and see what he says...maybe i have a new way to blend clear lol
 
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