Opti-coat 2.0 question...

Temjin said:
Obviously, I'm using it for my own car only. (and perhaps help a few friends with their cars for a bit of "off the record" cash) heh

Anyway, I'm preparing to do the coating this Sunday, so would love to know the answers to my questions pretty soon. Thx

Cheers!
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What question(s) do you have outstanding?
 
richy said:
What question(s) do you have outstanding?
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Not sure but I think the one about adhering badges to an opti-coated vehicle.

Temjin said:
Hi,

I thought not to start another thread on questions regarding the Opti-Coat 2.0. Would be great if my questions could be answered.

1.) How will Opti-Coat 2.0 affects the "Surface Energy" for adhesive products? For example, 3M Automotive Double Sided Tapes?

My understanding is that the anything will not bond well with the coat, and therefore, will even these kind of tapes will not stick to the surface? Or require a primer to suit, just like using it for low surface energy material such as nylon. (i.e. exterior plastic car parts)

I'm planning to install chrome exterior parts as well as a rear spoiler which is installed by double sided tapes. I'm worried if I coat the surface, they will fall off eventually.

2) Can I use the coat on plastic wheel covers? Not the actual rim?

3) Can I also coat my chrome plated exterior ABS parts? My weathershield visor?

Thanks alot!
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Not to get hopelessly off-topic here, but there are cars driving around with rear spoilers attached by double-stick tape?? I'm sure that's fine with a properly-prepped surface...but I'm going to keep this in mind next time I'm on the highway behind some spoiler that looks like a DIY job...
 
adhesives like double sided tape, badges, and vinyl wraps with do fine on an Opti Coated car. Just follow the normal directions for prepping the surface.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
adhesives like double sided tape, badges, and vinyl wraps with do fine on an Opti Coated car. Just follow the normal directions for prepping the surface.
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Thanks Chris.

Could you please assist me with my two remaining questions? Many thanks!

2) Can I use the coat on plastic wheel covers? Not the actual rim?

3) Can I also coat my chrome plated exterior ABS parts? My weathershield visor?

Setec Astronomy said:
Not to get hopelessly off-topic here, but there are cars driving around with rear spoilers attached by double-stick tape?? I'm sure that's fine with a properly-prepped surface...but I'm going to keep this in mind next time I'm on the highway behind some spoiler that looks like a DIY job...
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It's not exactly secured purely by double-stick tapes. My i30's OEM rear spoiler also have end flat metal hooks that are secured to the edge of the roof. Plus the tapes I'm using isn't some knockoff stuff, but proper 3M Automotive Tapes. Will use more than enough tapes based on specifications (adhesive strength for given area and weight of attachment) so I wouldn't have a flying spoiler anytime. :D Don't want to get myself in trouble of course. The surface will be properly prepped as well. (there is no need to use primer as well)

This is why I'm asking the Opti-Coat 2.0 question and if it will affect the durability of these 3M automotive tapes.
 
Temjin said:
Hi,

I thought not to start another thread on questions regarding the Opti-Coat 2.0. Would be great if my questions could be answered.

1.) How will Opti-Coat 2.0 affects the "Surface Energy" for adhesive products? For example, 3M Automotive Double Sided Tapes?

My understanding is that the anything will not bond well with the coat, and therefore, will even these kind of tapes will not stick to the surface? Or require a primer to suit, just like using it for low surface energy material such as nylon. (i.e. exterior plastic car parts)

I'm planning to install chrome exterior parts as well as a rear spoiler which is installed by double sided tapes. I'm worried if I coat the surface, they will fall off eventually.

2) Can I use the coat on plastic wheel covers? Not the actual rim?

3) Can I also coat my chrome plated exterior ABS parts? My weathershield visor?

Thanks alot!
Click to expand...
Obviously, you cannot install any part on your car with adhesive on a surface treated with Opti-Coat any more than you would attempt to apply an adhesive mounted part to a waxed surface. You would need to polish off the section that you will be adhering to. I suggest you place the part on the car where you want it, and then use tape around the edge of it where it meets the panel, or use a grease pencil or something to outline the area, and then use masking tape to protect the area you don't want polished, and then polish within. I would use 2500 or 3000 grit sandpaper to be fast.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
adhesives like double sided tape, badges, and vinyl wraps with do fine on an Opti Coated car. Just follow the normal directions for prepping the surface.
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For small stuff like that I suppose it would be ok, but because Opti Coat is a lot slicker than bare paint, I would think that you wouldn't want to mount anything heavier to an Opti Coated surface and expect it to stick as well as to bare paint.
 
Thanks Blackthornone. That sounds a more cautious plan.

I planning to clay/pro iron x/polish/glaze the entire car anyway, including the area in which the rear spoiler will be installed over. I will leave the coating out of that particular area as it would be "permanently" covered (overlapped) by the spoiler anyway. I will coat the rear spoiler exposed surface instead.

And yes, some of the other smaller stuff should be ok. They are too light weight to be of concern. I was just more concern about the 3M Automotive Tape will not bond to the coating at all. (i.e. loss 90%+ effectiveness, or transforming the coated surface to a low energy one)
 
Temjin said:
Thanks Chris.

Could you please assist me with my two remaining questions? Many thanks!

2) Can I use the coat on plastic wheel covers? Not the actual rim?

3) Can I also coat my chrome plated exterior ABS parts? My weathershield visor?



It's not exactly secured purely by double-stick tapes. My i30's OEM rear spoiler also have end flat metal hooks that are secured to the edge of the roof. Plus the tapes I'm using isn't some knockoff stuff, but proper 3M Automotive Tapes. Will use more than enough tapes based on specifications (adhesive strength for given area and weight of attachment) so I wouldn't have a flying spoiler anytime. :D Don't want to get myself in trouble of course. The surface will be properly prepped as well. (there is no need to use primer as well)

This is why I'm asking the Opti-Coat 2.0 question and if it will affect the durability of these 3M automotive tapes.
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Yes you can on both applications.


Blackthornone said:
Obviously, you cannot install any part on your car with adhesive on a surface treated with Opti-Coat any more than you would attempt to apply an adhesive mounted part to a waxed surface. You would need to polish off the section that you will be adhering to. I suggest you place the part on the car where you want it, and then use tape around the edge of it where it meets the panel, or use a grease pencil or something to outline the area, and then use masking tape to protect the area you don't want polished, and then polish within. I would use 2500 or 3000 grit sandpaper to be fast.
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Obviously, you are not informed but only speculating. Wax and sealants only sit on the paint while Opticoat becomes part of it. Once cured you can prep with alcohol and apply adhesive film or tape. Opticoat is not a buffer that will wear away, but becomes the top layer of clear "coating." While it does shed dirt and does not allow airborne contaminants to bond, glues and adhesives should bond fine.

Temjin said:
Thanks Blackthornone. That sounds a more cautious plan.

I planning to clay/pro iron x/polish/glaze the entire car anyway, including the area in which the rear spoiler will be installed over. I will leave the coating out of that particular area as it would be "permanently" covered (overlapped) by the spoiler anyway. I will coat the rear spoiler exposed surface instead.

And yes, some of the other smaller stuff should be ok. They are too light weight to be of concern. I was just more concern about the 3M Automotive Tape will not bond to the coating at all. (i.e. loss 90%+ effectiveness, or transforming the coated surface to a low energy one)
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It will all be fine.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
Yes you can on both applications.




Obviously, you are not informed but only speculating. Wax and sealants only sit on the paint while Opticoat becomes part of it. Once cured you can prep with alcohol and apply adhesive film or tape. Opticoat is not a buffer that will wear away, but becomes the top layer of clear "coating." While it does shed dirt and does not allow airborne contaminants to bond, glues and adhesives should bond fine.



It will all be fine.
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I did not mean to insult the product, but indeed, I was speculating. It seems to me that if Opti Coat makes a surface slipperier, that any adhesive would not bond as well as it would to a less slick surface. My point in comparing it to wax was to refer to it's slickness. I realize that Opti Coat is bonded to the paint, but you have also said that it is so slick that it will not stick to itself, and so would neccessitate removing the product from an entire panel in order to fix a problem area. If Opti Coat is so slick that it won't stick to itself, I find it hard to accept that any adhesive would bond as well to it as to bare paint. With all due respect, I find it difficult to understand how anything including any adhesive could stick as well to Opti Coat as it could to bare paint, and especially to bare paint scuffed with sandpaper. In school, I learned that glue and other adhesives work by flowing into rough areas and then solidifying, thus locking in and therfore gripping the surface, which holds multiple pieces together. Things that appear completely smooth are quite rough on the microscopic level, thus allowing two seemingly smooth surfaces to be glued. The rougher the surface, the better any adhesive works. Honestly, I think that the fact that Opti Coat would make anything including any adhesives stick less would be one of the benefits of the product.
 
I suppose one could test how well adhesives stick to Opti Coat vs bare paint by putting adhesive strips on an Opti Coated panel, and on a bare paint panel, and then use a spring scale ( the pull type that you hang things from, in order to weigh them)or something similar to see how much force is needed to pull the adhesive off of each side by attaching the end up the adhesive strip you are pulling off to the scale, and then see how much the scale moves for each.
 
Don't question what Chris tells you. If he advises it will adhere with no problem, then it will adhere with no problem. The man knows his Optimum products well. Misinformation can get out of hand if not corrected quickly.
 
Thanks for the advises people. This is actually quite an important issue for Optimum to sort out as naturally one would assume "anything will not bond well to Opti-Coat" may mean "adhesive will have problems too".

It's a fair assumption after all. So more information to clear this up is better.

Regardless, this was very useful and has answered my questions. Thanks again.
 
I've got another question.

Before I got the Opti-Coat, I planned to do the traditional detailing via clay/polish/glaze/seal. Brought all the stuff already but now realise it may not be a good idea to prep the surface with a glaze.

So it is ok to use chemguy's EXTREME SHINE EZ~CREME GLAZE w/ACRYLIC SHINE II before coating the surface?

Else I might as well sell it since I wouldn't be using it.

Thanks again!
 
Temjin said:
I've got another question.

Before I got the Opti-Coat, I planned to do the traditional detailing via clay/polish/glaze/seal. Brought all the stuff already but now realise it may not be a good idea to prep the surface with a glaze.

So it is ok to use chemguy's EXTREME SHINE EZ~CREME GLAZE w/ACRYLIC SHINE II before coating the surface?

Else I might as well sell it since I wouldn't be using it.

Thanks again!
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I would not. Glazes tend to be a lot more oily so the best case scenario is you waste time, effort and product to put a product on that you will end up stripping in the final wash stage or the worst case is that it prevents the OC from properly bonding.
 
richy said:
I would not. Glazes tend to be a lot more oily so the best case scenario is you waste time, effort and product to put a product on that you will end up stripping in the final wash stage or the worst case is that it prevents the OC from properly bonding.
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:iagree:

No sense putting something on that you're going to have to strip off. You want absolutely clean surface before applying OC.
 
Temjin said:
I've got another question.

Before I got the Opti-Coat, I planned to do the traditional detailing via clay/polish/glaze/seal. Brought all the stuff already but now realise it may not be a good idea to prep the surface with a glaze.

So it is ok to use chemguy's EXTREME SHINE EZ~CREME GLAZE w/ACRYLIC SHINE II before coating the surface?

Else I might as well sell it since I wouldn't be using it.

Thanks again!
Click to expand...

Temijin, I hope this doesn't come off as scolding, but if you have done any reading about applying Opticoat you would know that this is not a product that you need to "see what you can get by with." You need to polish the paint to your satisfaction, remove all polishing oils-silicone-etc, then apply Opticoat to "bare" paint.

There is no place for glazes, acrylics, sealants, waxes or anything else between paint and Opticoat or it wont bond permanently. This is a product that you need to follow the directions and not try to modify them. Opticoat is different from ANY wax, sealant, nano sealant, or acrylic and should be treated as such.+

I approved one of the two accounts you signed up on Optimum Forums with so you can get more info there now if you like.
 
Chris, your customer service has been excellent. You had replied to some of my questions in another post also, it's much appreciated.

Can we use an automotive wax & grease remover to prepare the surface for Opticoat? The same type that would be used in a body shop to clean a panel or bumper before painting it.
 
96Lude said:
Chris, your customer service has been excellent. You had replied to some of my questions in another post also, it's much appreciated.

Can we use an automotive wax & grease remover to prepare the surface for Opticoat? The same type that would be used in a body shop to clean a panel or bumper before painting it.
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Yes, but change to a new towel every couple of panels. That stuff can leave a residue and sometimes not fully remove the waxes or oils fully if you don't keep a fresh towel.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
Yes, but change to a new towel every couple of panels. That stuff can leave a residue and sometimes not fully remove the waxes or oils fully if you don't keep a fresh towel.
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Since everyone seem to be asking their questions about opti coat im going to ask another one. I recently painted a car flat black and so far it has no protection. The only option i came across was swissvax. They offer a line for flat colors. But we all know swissvax isnt cheap at all. So what caught my attention the other day was that avi@carpro posted pictures of a flat gray bmw with cquartz and it looked great. Now my question is, will opti-coat add gloss to a flat color? Has this been tested before? I ask this because id like to go with opti coat rather than cquartz but i have these doubts about it. If you can give me a few tips here chris i would be more than thankful!
 
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