Headlight restoration 50/50.

Could the brand and/or type of disc/paper cause more or less swirls? Example; 3m brand...silicone carbide
compared to Meguiar's brand....aluminum oxide.

I read somewhere that different brands and types can break down differently. I am wondering if that breakdown process could be more or less likely to cause swirls?
I only do headlights, recently bought the Griot's 3" orbital and cheaper discs with dry sanding, and it seems like I am getting more swirls. Just trying to figure out how to correct that is all. I'm worried that the higher speeds of the Griots(3,500-6,800opm) could be causing this. Another person told me maybe I wasn't cleaning the discs/surface often enough. Any thoughts?

Bingo. If you're dry sanding the disc is going to load up a lot faster than damp or wet sanding so you've GOT to be diligent about working clean and keeping an eye on the face of your disc.
 
I wetsand by hand and knock out a pair in about an hour. I wetsand in an angle, and i sand the same direction all grits. Then when i wipe the UV sealant i wipe it in the direction i sanded. So all the scratches get filled in perfecly and there is no scratches after im done. Thats why i enjoy doing it by hand, because i find it faster, my sandpaper last longer and its just easier IMO..
 
Sometimes ya have to sand by hand anyway, because of the tight clearance and shape of the headlamps. It would be nice to get them in a box removed from the car....lol
 
Hello Oscar, thanks for the thread and the great information. The work your have done looks great.

Just want to make sure I understand what you have done correctly, you wet sanded with 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 and 3000 grit sandpaper, going in a back and forth direction. It doesn't sound like you went in a circular motion or anything like that. You then cleaned the lens with mineral spirits, going in the same back and forth direction as you did during sanding. Lastly you wiped the lens, again, in the same back and forth direction as you did during sanding, with a 50/50 mixture of urethan and mineral sprits, using a tightly folder Scott towel. So far am I correct?

Lastly, what type of urethan are you using? From the title of the post, I gather it's Minwax, but are you using the same type of the urethan that you would use for wood working, the kind that you pick up from your local home improvement store or is it something different? Is there any specific type of Minwax Urethan that you prefer to use?

Thanks again, great thread!
--Glenn
 
Hello Oscar, thanks for the thread and the great information. The work your have done looks great.

Just want to make sure I understand what you have done correctly, you wet sanded with 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 and 3000 grit sandpaper, going in a back and forth direction. It doesn't sound like you went in a circular motion or anything like that. You then cleaned the lens with mineral spirits, going in the same back and forth direction as you did during sanding. Lastly you wiped the lens, again, in the same back and forth direction as you did during sanding, with a 50/50 mixture of urethan and mineral sprits, using a tightly folder Scott towel. So far am I correct?

Lastly, what type of urethan are you using? From the title of the post, I gather it's Minwax, but are you using the same type of the urethan that you would use for wood working, the kind that you pick up from your local home improvement store or is it something different? Is there any specific type of Minwax Urethan that you prefer to use?

Thanks again, great thread!
--Glenn

You are completely Correct on the process!!! :dblthumb2:

Yea its just regular urethane that you can get at home depot. Its the Minwax one. Get the High Gloss one. Just mix it up 50/50 and wipe away and you will be amazed. No need to buff or anything buddy. hope it helps!
 
Oscar,

Thanks again for the thread and the reply, really appreciate that.

One last question, is there any curing time, or drying time, that I should wait after applying the Minwax? Simply wipe on a thin layer and leave it alone or wipe off the excess with a clean towel afterwards?

Thanks again. Going to try this on my car soon.

--Glenn
 
One more thing...sorry. Just checked the Minwax website, they have a water-based Minwax, that is not the one to use...correct?
 
Hello Oscar, thanks for the thread and the great information. The work your have done looks great.

Just want to make sure I understand what you have done correctly, you wet sanded with 800, 1000, 1500, 2000 and 3000 grit sandpaper, going in a back and forth direction. It doesn't sound like you went in a circular motion or anything like that. You then cleaned the lens with mineral spirits, going in the same back and forth direction as you did during sanding. Lastly you wiped the lens, again, in the same back and forth direction as you did during sanding, with a 50/50 mixture of urethan and mineral sprits, using a tightly folder Scott towel. So far am I correct?

Lastly, what type of urethan are you using? From the title of the post, I gather it's Minwax, but are you using the same type of the urethan that you would use for wood working, the kind that you pick up from your local home improvement store or is it something different? Is there any specific type of Minwax Urethan that you prefer to use?

Thanks again, great thread!
--Glenn

One more thing...sorry. Just checked the Minwax website, they have a water-based Minwax, that is not the one to use...correct?

no i dont use the water based one. just get the urethane one. Oh and once you wipe it, IF you mess up or have a run. Just simply clean it right away with mineral spirits and reapply it. Once its nice and you like the way it looks, dont touch it and let it dry just a bit. Then to speed it up use a heat gun to dry em. :xyxthumbs:
 
no i dont use the water based one. just get the urethane one. Oh and once you wipe it, IF you mess up or have a run. Just simply clean it right away with mineral spirits and reapply it. Once its nice and you like the way it looks, dont touch it and let it dry just a bit. Then to speed it up use a heat gun to dry em. :xyxthumbs:

Good info Oscar......I've switched to your method and having good luck. I've noticed that the Minwax gets old after a month or so and ends up turning into these funky streaks a few months later. It also gets darker in the can. When I get a new can, no more problems. (and yes I keep the lid on at all times) Not quite sure what thats all about.
 
You are completely Correct on the process!!! :dblthumb2:

Yea its just regular urethane that you can get at home depot. Its the Minwax one. Get the High Gloss one. Just mix it up 50/50 and wipe away and you will be amazed. No need to buff or anything buddy. hope it helps!
what the different btween high gloss and clear gloss i been using the clear
 
Good info Oscar......I've switched to your method and having good luck. I've noticed that the Minwax gets old after a month or so and ends up turning into these funky streaks a few months later. It also gets darker in the can. When I get a new can, no more problems. (and yes I keep the lid on at all times) Not quite sure what thats all about.
I mix mine and store it very well sealed. Never had a problem this way. I have it in those small container bottles that they sell at wally world for when you travel. Its a little dispense bottle. I close it and store it in a zip lock bag. As long as no air gets in it, it should be good! how are you liking this process better?

what the different btween high gloss and clear gloss i been using the clear
I wouldnt be able to fully explain to you. But the glossier the better right? :dunno:
 
I see 4 pics and they all look like before photos. Am I missing some pics?

one side sure does look more clean than the other. you cant tell me you dont see the difference. Its a 50/50. :xyxthumbs:
 
Great thread fox. This is like a more condensed version of hotrod's.

I have a question..

Where do I get the sand paper?

I want to do this tomorrow.
 
Great thread fox. This is like a more condensed version of hotrod's.

I have a question..

Where do I get the sand paper?

I want to do this tomorrow.

Auto parts stores will have the basic grits you'll need, though to get your hands on 2500 or 3000 grit you'd have to order through AG or find a PBE jobber in your area that carries it.
 
I mix mine and store it very well sealed. Never had a problem this way. I have it in those small container bottles that they sell at wally world for when you travel. Its a little dispense bottle. I close it and store it in a zip lock bag. As long as no air gets in it, it should be good! how are you liking this process better?


I'm liking the process better because hand sanding seems to actually take less time and I don't ever have to worry about swirl marks like I used to with the drill method, plus hand sanding sometimes allows me to get into tight places that I couldn't reach with the drill. I still use the drill for the final 3m 3000 trizact, but thats it.

As for the Minwax getting darker and old, I dunno? I buy the $12.99 can from Home Depot and only open the lid when I remove product and yet after a month or two, it seems to change. It's weird. As long as I keep buying new, problem solved. I have no idea why it changes color but, it is always kept in my air conditioned house and never left open. I've had to redo about 5 cars because after a few months they start showing very light brownish streaks. But 95% of the cars I've done never have that problem. Strange.
 
one side sure does look more clean than the other. you cant tell me you dont see the difference. Its a 50/50. :xyxthumbs:


Ok I was looking for actual before shots not a 50/50 comparison. In that case wow--- looks great.
 
Great thread fox. This is like a more condensed version of hotrod's.

I have a question..

Where do I get the sand paper?

I want to do this tomorrow.

Find any automotive paint store in your area. They carry all grits from 36 to 3000.
 
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