About to give up on m105

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next gen detail

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Hey everyone lately ive been having a lot of problems with m105 and i feel like i need a different compound/product to get the same results fast.

Every time i use m105 i only use a 6.5 orange ccs pad or the purple compressor pad. i prime the pads with the xmt pad conditioner and a circle around the outer edge of the pad. then spread it and cover the area to be worked. i usually cut with it at 1500-1800rpm max and about 3 or less section passes. the biggest complaint i have is not only the dusting but almost every section/panel i do, the 105 almost burns itself the the surface.

I only use cobra miracle towels for the paint and i end up having to take the edge of the towel and scratch the remaining compound off the paint.

anyone else have this same problem? ive been using 105 for a while and this has always happend to me but now business has been picking up and this just slows me down so im on the hunt for a solution with 105 or a different product all together.

im wondering if maybe i got a bad bottle of compound or something i have no idea. any help is greatly appreciated
 
When that happens to me, I spay some water on the section and run over it lightly one or two more times. I don't have dusting problems when I'm using my makita, though.

Are you priming the pad before using it?
 
Yes! I just detailed a 2002 pearl white acura tl, it was such a pain spotting where there was leftover 105. I even washed the car before applying wg dgps and liquid souveran, but some of the 105 was still there. I didn't have much of an issue with dusting though, I even removed tape on the hood since I wasn't dusting much.

I was going to make a thread about how people remove their 105. I just used megs qd, mf towel and sometimes some elbow grease. For my second detail using m105 though, I love how the pearl white looks, esp with the souveran!
 
do you prime the entire face of the pad with m105 and then add two to three pea size dots? ive had problems in the past with m105. but that was because i was working outside in the insane texas heat and under the sun. thats has been the only time ive had problems with it. other than at, never.
 
I hated m105 before I started to prime the whole pad. Now I very rarely have problems unless I apply to much product while priming... then i have a nice little mess to clean.
 
dusting..probably heat issues..I always remove any polish/compounds and even sealers with a spritz of distilled water. I also usually "dampen" my mf towel first to help keep everything on the surface moist and cut down on the most amount of friction.
 
After priming the pad do not spread it around on the paint! I personally hate 105, yes it works well but I don't like a product that is so sensitive. I have had it flash on the paint and it dries like concrete! What a pain in the arse!
 
105 has a learning curve for sure. However once you get a hang of it, it's one of the most versatile polish/compounds out there. You can use it will wool on a rotary to get out all but the deepest imperfections, or you can use it on an orange pad to remove medium imperfections and leave an almost LSP ready finish on some paints.

Yes, it can be a pain at times, I've been using it for a few years now and feel I have a pretty good technique down for it, and I rarely have issues with it turning to concrete anymore. Now the dusting is to be expected with most compounds that have that amount of cut. Powergloss and Scholls S03+ both dust just as much if not more. Nothing a quick rinse after you compound won't take care of though.

So to the OP, I would play around with M105 some more. Try priming the whole face of the pad as was mentioned, and don't spread it out on the paint first. Also, start working a smaller than normal section so you can get your technique down. Once you have a good technique you should be able to do a larger section. Good luck, and I hope you don't give up on M105, because it really is a great product.
 
Flannigan said:
105 has a learning curve for sure. However once you get a hang of it, it's one of the most versatile polish/compounds out there. You can use it will wool on a rotary to get out all but the deepest imperfections, or you can use it on an orange pad to remove medium imperfections and leave an almost LSP ready finish on some paints.

Yes, it can be a pain at times, I've been using it for a few years now and feel I have a pretty good technique down for it, and I rarely have issues with it turning to concrete anymore. Now the dusting is to be expected with most compounds that have that amount of cut. Powergloss and Scholls S03+ both dust just as much if not more. Nothing a quick rinse after you compound won't take care of though.

So to the OP, I would play around with M105 some more. Try priming the whole face of the pad as was mentioned, and don't spread it out on the paint first. Also, start working a smaller than normal section so you can get your technique down. Once you have a good technique you should be able to do a larger section. Good luck, and I hope you don't give up on M105, because it really is a great product.
Click to expand...

:iagree:
also I clean my pad on the fly after each section
 
Im pretty sure M105 was originally designed to be used with a wool pad on the rotary. It was made for the automotive refinishing side to allow quick results, kinda like a 1-2 punch deal.

M105 on rotary, followed by M205 on foam.

With that said, when we use it with a foam pad, it tends to dry quicker because it was desinged to work with a wool pad, which doesn't create the heat that foam does causing it to dry prematurely.

But, there are "work arounds" which tend to be similar between everyone with subtle differences. I agree with Flannigan because this is very similar to what i do.
 
thanks for you help guys right now im doing a 99 sl500 black and about to throw the damn bottle threw the garage window its dusting like crazy.

the one question i have is what do you guys mean prime the pad first. one problem i was doing was spreading the 105 on the paint then 600 rpm on the section im doing to work it in then kick it up to 1500 and about 3 passes

i am doing the cleaning on the fly after every panel

p.s. i have the flex pe14-2 a green buff and shine pad also if you could respond asap as im in the process of buffing right now
 
Here is a link how to prime a pad http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ow-prime-foam-pad-when-using-da-polisher.html

Also m105 on a green pad sounds like an odd combo to me. You are using an agressive compound on a light polishing pad. Are you getting the correction you are looking for.

As far as dusting thats what compounds do. There isn't really a safe way to stop it. some people like to add baby oil, but IMO it's a bad idea.
 
next gen detail said:
thanks for you help guys right now im doing a 99 sl500 black and about to throw the damn bottle threw the garage window its dusting like crazy.

the one question i have is what do you guys mean prime the pad first. one problem i was doing was spreading the 105 on the paint then 600 rpm on the section im doing to work it in then kick it up to 1500 and about 3 passes

i am doing the cleaning on the fly after every panel

p.s. i have the flex pe14-2 a green buff and shine pad also if you could respond asap as im in the process of buffing right now
Click to expand...

My method is to place several concentric circles of product on the pad then to use my fingers spread and work it into the pad so that the pad is completely covered edge to edge. Not so much product as to saturate but so that you can still see the pore structure. I'm sure other have their own procedure.

edit: I guess I'm slow on keyboard - see link in post #14 above
 
the green buff and shine pad is used for compounds and polishes

i hope i can figure out a good technique otherwise bye bye 105
 
next gen detail said:
the green buff and shine pad is used for compounds and polishes

i hope i can figure out a good technique otherwise bye bye 105
Click to expand...
I've never found that to be a viable combo, but I'm not saying it doesn't work obviously. When using 105 Usually I'm trying to get out some pretty deep defects so I'm using wool or at least a heavy cutting foam pad. But thats just me. Glad that combo works for you.
 
Kaleb G. said:
I hated m105 before I started to prime the whole pad. Now I very rarely have problems unless I apply to much product while priming... then i have a nice little mess to clean.
Click to expand...

BINGO!!

Don't you just love it when a rotary throws product all over the place!! :laughing:
 
next gen detail said:
Hey everyone lately ive been having a lot of problems with m105 and i feel like i need a different compound/product to get the same results fast.

Every time i use m105 i only use a 6.5 orange ccs pad or the purple compressor pad. i prime the pads with the xmt pad conditioner and a circle around the outer edge of the pad. then spread it and cover the area to be worked. i usually cut with it at 1500-1800rpm max and about 3 or less section passes. the biggest complaint i have is not only the dusting but almost every section/panel i do, the 105 almost burns itself the the surface.

I only use cobra miracle towels for the paint and i end up having to take the edge of the towel and scratch the remaining compound off the paint.

anyone else have this same problem? ive been using 105 for a while and this has always happend to me but now business has been picking up and this just slows me down so im on the hunt for a solution with 105 or a different product all together.

im wondering if maybe i got a bad bottle of compound or something i have no idea. any help is greatly appreciated
Click to expand...

Are you using a rotary or DA? 3 passes seems like not even time for the 105 to work, but that could just be my personal preference. It almost sounds like too much product is being used.
 
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