Hand-applying PoorBoy's Black Hole Glaze...

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rivaladversary

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Can anyone tell me the correct way to applying this thing? I tried it on some spots on my Black Acura TSX 2010 and I did not really see a difference.

I am using a yellow foam applicator pad.

How much product should I use for each section? Detailedimage said for glazes, to use about 2 pea spots.

How long should I work the product in? The bottle tells me to work it in until I see a shine, but since I am a noob, I have no idea when I am going to see this shine. Can someone give me an ETA?

The product tells me to wait until it hazes. Does that mean when it's dry, and then wipe off?
 
I think you may be expecting a little more than what you will get out of this product but I will say it work MUCH better when applied with a DA.
 
my car paint i would say is in good condition. there are very light swirl marks, and scratches that are veryhard to notice unless you're a foot away from the car. it's not bad considering it is not garaged.

what i want is a darker look. i'm not sure if i can achieve anymore.
 
i'll get a porter when i feel more confident with my car care skills. i feel like im just gonna screw things up.
 
rivaladversary said:
i'll get a porter when i feel more confident with my car care skills. i feel like im just gonna screw things up.
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I dont see why people arent confident in themselves... My first purchase was a rotary! Buy a DA... the only way you can "screw up" is if you leave the pad in one section at speed 6. Plus, a DA with a glaze there is no way you can screw up. Unless you drop the DA on your hood and create a huge dent :)
 
rivaladversary said:
i'll get a porter when i feel more confident with my car care skills. i feel like im just gonna screw things up.
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As long as you're using a DA Orbital Polisher.....there really isn't anything you can mess up that cannot be fixed. The DAO buffer doesn't have the rotation to really burn paint like a rotary polisher...(SKILLED PEOPLE ONLY). Look up some more information on DA's to ease your mind about messing your finish up. ("This type of motion is much safer to the paint because it's virtually impossible to apply too much concentrated pressure in one place at one time. Chances are good that when too much pressure is applied, the oscillating action will come to a stop thereby protecting the finish." MEG)

P.S. I use Black Hole with my PC XP Dual Action with a black or white pad, depending on the severity that you are trying to cover up it's plenty sufficient.
 
93fox said:
I dont see why people arent confident in themselves... My first purchase was a rotary! Buy a DA... the only way you can "screw up" is if you leave the pad in one section at speed 6. Plus, a DA with a glaze there is no way you can screw up. Unless you drop the DA on your hood and create a huge dent :)
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bigaizsosexy said:
As long as you're using a DA Orbital Polisher.....there really isn't anything you can mess up that cannot be fixed. The DAO buffer doesn't have the rotation to really burn paint like a rotary polisher...(SKILLED PEOPLE ONLY). Look up some more information on DA's to ease your mind about messing your finish up. ("This type of motion is much safer to the paint because it's virtually impossible to apply too much concentrated pressure in one place at one time. Chances are good that when too much pressure is applied, the oscillating action will come to a stop thereby protecting the finish." MEG)

P.S. I use Black Hole with my PC XP Dual Action with a black or white pad, depending on the severity that you are trying to cover up it's plenty sufficient.
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:iagree:

I was a little apprehensive about using a machine too but after much reading here on AGO I couldn't wait to get my hands on one and I've never had one problem since I did.
The first time I used PB BH I did it by hand and did not notice much change. After reading it was better with a DA I did and noticed much better results, not to mention how much easier and faster it is. Just be sure to top the BH with a good sealant or wax or it won't last.
 
But understand you can mess up, its just very very hard to do. There is a recent post on here where someone burnt the paint with a DA.
 
Glazes are meant to be used on good condition paint. Machine polishing before using a glaze is ideal, if not, at least use a paint cleaner before glazing. Remember a glaze will not last and should be topped with a wax or sealant.
 
Dwayne,

Really, someone burned their paint with a DA? After using mine for 3 and half years I've never come close to burning it. I mean I am sure it's possible just like anything else, but extremely hard to do.
 
Dubbin1 said:
I think you may be expecting a little more than what you will get out of this product but I will say it work MUCH better when applied with a DA.
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I agree with D! I havent had any glaze amaze me! Subtle difference at best!
 
I actually have the same exact car.. black 2010 tsx and just applied some by hand myself .. only difference is i live in rockland so had pockets from pb giving me a hand.. realized i needed a da after that and so finally got one
 
Does everyone buy into the use of glaze before a wax or sealant? I have three Toyotas in my family, two silver and one white and I'm considering buying Poorboy's World White Diamond Show Glaze.
 
The fact of the matter is that Glazes do have a purpose. Glazes can amp up the gloss and make the paint look deeper depending on various factors, but in my opinion that's not the primary reason why I use them. They also fill in those pesky light swirls & scratches. Yes, everybody says...its better to correct than to just fill in. I agree, and correction works INITIALLY...but the fact of the matter is that you can rarely (if ever) keep the corrected paint from getting swirls & scratches after you've corrected it...its going to happen at some point through no fault of your own, despite your best attempt to wash properly. Its inevitable, especially on paints that are easily scratched. Some use an LSP as a filler, but I've found that high quality glazes do a much better job at filling than an LSP does.

Scratches are going to happen...and when you think about it, its not very practical or smart to do a correction every item you see new swirls or scratches. There's only so much clear coat to play with...so Glazes do have a place, and I use them primarily to fill small scratches. I'm sure as heck not going to haul out the polisher each time to fix every swirl or scratch. Correcting paint should not be done on a regular basis, so glazes do work for the purpose of which they are intended. They can make the paint look better depending on your paint, and pre-glaze steps that you use. There's not a magic glaze that looks good on every type of paint, and if you don't prep properly before you apply the glaze, don't expect any kind of great results. Glazes are made to go on paint that is already corrected and polished...just prior to applying an LSP.

Just remember to follow up with a wax or sealant LSP...or you are truly wasting your time and money applying a glaze. I usually hit my cars with a Glaze 2x a year just after mild polishing (if needed), and just prior to sealing.
 
I think it should be mentioned again that even when a glaze is "locked in" by a sealant or wax, you are only going to get the benifits until the first couple washes or rains. Honestly, the only time I woul apply a glaze is right before a car show, or with the knowledge that it's only going to look that good for a short while.
 
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