Help Wanted: Trim Restoration Testing
- Thread starter rwright
- Start date
- Thread starter
- #42
As I stated before, do a small test area first to check for staining. I may not be the first person to mention this but the product is simply Meguiar's PlastX 
. That's it, nothing special and it's available nearly everywhere. Heck, you may even own it already! So there you go.
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. That's it, nothing special and it's available nearly everywhere. Heck, you may even own it already! So there you go.---
- Sent using Tapatalk
- Thread starter
- #44
The way I used it was apply a small drop onto a micro fiber towel and polish the plastic, allow to haze briefly then buff residue. A cotton terry towel will provide more bite than a micro fiber towel, just be careful not to get aggressive. I plan to try Ron's idea of the acid wash first, then polish with PlastX, finally coating with UTTG or WGETS. I did an IPA wipe without affecting the surface. Remember, this is not a permanent fix.
- Thread starter
- #47
Thanks for the info Richard. I'm going to give this a try for sure!rops:
Please do and give some feedback, good or bad.
Nice Richard! Thanks for the info
You're welcome, again.
I have tried that. the problem is that usually trim is very close to painted surfaces, and there is no way I would want to spply that much heat that close to paint. It does work, and it seems like its a pretty long term solution.
Also it's a little tricky to get it to look even.
DARK HORSE
Active member
- Sep 14, 2009
- 2,537
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As I stated before, do a small test area first to check for staining. I may not be the first person to mention this but the product is simply Meguiar's PlastX
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I see you have discovered my "ancient Chinese secret" for plastic trim... If you had really been reading my write ups instead of just blowing kindness smoke up my tooter, you would have discovered it long ago...LMAO j/k buddy!
But seriously I have been using plastix (with a da) on plastic trim pieces for a couple of years now. It really is a very good product. Thanks for sharing buddy...
Here is a excerpt and some before/after shots from a job a posted a couple of years ago.
Exterior Trim, Plastic, Glass, and Chrome: All exterior trim was first treated with Black Again and allowed to cure for 48 hours, then protected with 303 protectant.
Plastic tail lights, side lights, and plastic trim piece that runs from the back driver’s side across the top of the car to the back passenger side were polished with Maguire’s Plastix and protected with Klasse HGPS. All glass (including headlights) was polished with Stoners Invisible Glass and protected with Klasse HGPS. Chrome bumpers were polished with Optimum metal polish and a 4” orange LC pad on the PC.
Here is a link to the entire detail...
http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/show-n-shine/24502-1982-datsun-turn-around.html
Maybe there's other "ancient Chinese secrets" hidden deep within...J/k buddy, thanks again for bringing this to light my friend. As always, very nice of you to go out of your way to share information. Looking forward to seeing for dinner Monday night...
rops:
C. Charles Hahn
New member
- Aug 27, 2007
- 3,103
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You have to be very careful with that technique and be sure you know the material you're heating. That will only work on trim that has the color impregnated all the way through the material, whereas it would only further damage trim that has the color dye only in the top layer of the material.