CQuarts/Opticoat 2.0

ROMEO

ROMEO

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Hey guys, I have been thinking about getting one of this two, but the main thing that is holding me back is the no more waxing part, as I do enjoy the freshly waxed look a lot and have a lot of waxes (Fuzion, Pinnacle Souverän, P21 100, AutoGlyn HD, Naty's blue and more).

Has anyone that has used ether one of this been sorry about it? I mean, yes, sure, all the great protection, etc. But part of the fun is spending time on the car, applying different waxes/sealers.

It almost sounds to me as if this products would be better for the pro's working on those customer cars that never get any attention.

Or, am I just been plain crazy? :dunno::dig:
 
alot of guys will put opt on PITA places like rockers, roofs and such.
 
Jhaight11 said:
alot of guys will put opt on PITA places like rockers, roofs and such.
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That is a good idea... I knew there was a reason to ask, even tho it seemed like a stupid question...
 
Def not a stupid question! I put some OC 2.0 just on my roof to try it....figuring that it would be easy to polish off if I didn't like it. Sorry I didn't do the entire vehicle. And you can wax it...no need to but you can still do it for OCD reasons!
 
I think there are still a number of people using LSPs with one of the coatings. I just put mine on last weekend as kind of a super barrier for the paint after it was perfected since my clear is starting to fail. I will post back with results of waxing on top, but I must say it looks beautiful on it's own. Maybe I'll branch out and start doing more cars for money.
 
Dr Oldz said:
Def not a stupid question! I put some OC 2.0 just on my roof to try it....figuring that it would be easy to polish off if I didn't like it. Sorry I didn't do the entire vehicle. And you can wax it...no need to but you can still do it for OCD reasons!
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At least is good to know you liked it! I was under the impression that they could not be waxed, or that it would be a waste since they would repel the wax...

Could CQuartz be waxed too?
 
Not sure about CQ. But Chris from OPT said you can wax OC 2.0 if you want to but it won't help the coating and may take away from its properties till the wax wears off....but still ok to do for the "need to wax" ppl like myself...LOL

I am very happy with OC thus far and it was very easy to apply once you get the hand of it. Took me about a 6inch square section to do so.
 
ROMEO said:
At least is good to know you liked it! I was under the impression that they could not be waxed, or that it would be a waste since they would repel the wax...

Could CQuartz be waxed too?
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Yes , it can, with Nuba wax base , not petroleum solvents.
though there wont be any need for that if you've done great polishing before
cquartz has great "glass like" shine
 
From my observation with Opti-Coat 2.0 it would not be beneficial from a cleaning standpoint. My reason is because I used to use BFWD and the car would attract a lot of dust. Now that I have Opti-Coated my car the paint repels the dust. Also, I want to add that I am new and never really waxed cars before.

However, if you have always waxed and are a bit "OCD", (personally think everyone on this forum is OCD) then satisfy your craving. :)
 
If you use opti coat will there be a need for future paint corrections and if so would i need to re-apply the opti?
 
Future corrections depend on how well your paint holds up. Meaning if you do a careful wash and no rocks come flying at you then you should be good. If, however, an accident occurs you would use a polishing compound to polish the entire panel, remove all oil fillers, and reapply once the panel is perfect and squeaky clean.
 
fordlexus said:
If you use opti coat will there be a need for future paint corrections and if so would i need to re-apply the opti?
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First, it depends on what level of finish you want to maintain but I'll try to speak generally on my opinion of the answer.
If you correctly wash and dry your vehicle and don't scratch it with anything more than occasional random very light micro marring of a towel then you can use poliseal and a foam finishing pad to amp up the gloss (remove that very light micro-marring) every year or so or as you feel it's needed. When you do this the important thing (and the point of the product if you listen to Dr. Davids reason for the invention of the product) is that you ARE NOT REMOVING CLEAR COAT. Eventually (depending on how often you polish, but if well taken care of it would take a very long time) you could polish through the layer of opti-coat and at that point you could add another layer of Opti-coat.
 
CEE DOG said:
First, it depends on what level of finish you want to maintain but I'll try to speak generally on my opinion of the answer.
If you correctly wash and dry your vehicle and don't scratch it with anything more than occasional random very light micro marring of a towel then you can use poliseal and a foam finishing pad to amp up the gloss (remove that very light micro-marring) every year or so or as you feel it's needed. When you do this the important thing (and the point of the product if you listen to Dr. Davids reason for the invention of the product) is that you ARE NOT REMOVING CLEAR COAT. Eventually (depending on how often you polish, but if well taken care of it would take a very long time) you could polish through the layer of opti-coat and at that point you could add another layer of Opti-coat.
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Corey: I'm really am looking for advise/guidance!!!

This is the causation of my confusion, or perhaps misunderstanding, of Opti-Gard/Opti-Coat (and maybe other "Coatings").

It has been stated that: The Opti-Coatings, when properly applied, are supppose to/will "etch", or, assimilating, as it were, into the paint's top-coat (the clearcoat); will properly cure within the allotted/recommended time frame through: cross-linking; will be a permanent coating similar to, but "harder" than paint clearcoat; that hardness will be (with a stated Moh's hardness) approaching 9H (corundum/emery) when cured; and nothing is supposed to remove said Coatings, save compounding with abrasives (a few others like paint thinners? have been mentioned, if I'm not mistaken, also).

Therefore, IMHO, if all of the above is factual, then micro-marring from: washing, drying, and even driving a vehicle [and what that entails (environmental issues)] should be a thing of the past. (I understand that incurring things like rock chips can happen).

But, it seems, that in real-world vehicle usage this is not so factual. As evidenced, micro-marring, swirls, and scratches do occur. Therefore the advise that is given: One is cautioned to use due diligence in their cleaning cycles; and, to "refresh" the Opti-Coatings (gloss-up, remove micro-marring, etc.) Poli-Seal may be used. ( Poli-Seal must be bada$$, then! :D ). Also, when one has polished/abraded through the Opti-Coatings, another application can be applied. My question: Since these coatings "etch" (assimilate) the clearcoat paint, how does one actually know where the Coatings end and the clearcoat begins? IMHO, without taking paint thickness readings before the Coating's application, and without doing more paint thickness readings at regular intervals, I don't see how it would be possible.

If you, {or others, such as, (Dr. G, Chris@Optimum)} would, please explain for me: How can these stark contrasts so co-exist?

Note: I'm not getting any younger; it's not as easy as it once was to 'detail' vehicles; and I'd like to have more of a "life" than continually going around and around and getting up and down to 'detail' said vehicles. As such, these coatings sound and look tempting.

Thanks in advance for your assistance.:)

Bob
 
Has anyone ever put This Opticoat 2.0 on fresh paint with no CC?
 
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