Dedicated pads for each product?
- Thread starter lee1dew
- Start date
V3AutoDetailing
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- Jun 29, 2009
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That would get very exspensive only using one product one one pad. With a good wash after each use you will be fine to use what you wnt next time.
Mobile detail
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- May 14, 2011
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I personally like to stick with a dedicated pad for each wax or sealant. I can never get asl the used product out of the pad. At 7 bucks a pad for me its not that big of a deal.
BobbyG
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- Dec 29, 2009
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As long as they're clean you should see no issues...
For 'LSPs' I never (or at least try) cross contaminate. But with compounds, I really don't worry about it.
In fact, when starting with a compound and it 'just ain't enough' I will step up a notch on the same pad. Example, started on a boat with Megs HD Oxidation Remover...wasn't near enuf...just went to Megs One Step Compound (same pad) and all went well.
Disclaimer: I couldn't use a 'stronger pad' 'cause I didn't have the yellow cutters with me...I was on vacation helping out a friend.
Bill
In fact, when starting with a compound and it 'just ain't enough' I will step up a notch on the same pad. Example, started on a boat with Megs HD Oxidation Remover...wasn't near enuf...just went to Megs One Step Compound (same pad) and all went well.
Disclaimer: I couldn't use a 'stronger pad' 'cause I didn't have the yellow cutters with me...I was on vacation helping out a friend.
Bill
HeavyMetal
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- Dec 29, 2010
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+1. I just clean the pads.
Mike Phillips
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- Dec 5, 2022
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The hard part is getting them really clean. Any good wax or paint sealant is going to be water insoluble as the whole idea behind any protection product is to resist dissolving off the car when it rains or you wash the car.
Do a forum search for the word insoluble. It should pull up threads on cleaning wax pads and the issues surrounding the topic.
HeavyMetal
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- Dec 29, 2010
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Agree Mike. HOWEVER (that's a big however), most of today's sealants and waxes are water-based. As such, they are soluable until they cure. It may be more difficult than simply rinsing with water but you can get them clean. If you cannot get them truly clean, then pad cleaning products are merely the detailing equivalent of snake oil and users should realize that switching from one product to another bears the additional cost of a new pad. I don't think you wish to imply that, but that is the end conclusion IF the LSPs are truly non-soluable in any state in any water-based cleaner.
Mike Phillips
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- Dec 5, 2022
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Just to add, some waxes and paint sealant formulations actually claim to be detergent-proof....
In a perfect world, once you find and settle with your favorite LSP's, if you machine apply them, then dedicated a pad for each product and do everything you can to keep them clean when not in use.
If you have the need to wash them then washing them by hand works best because you can squish and squeeze cleaning solution into the foam and then squish and squeeze the cleaning solution and dissolved gunk out of the foam, (to the best of your ability).
I actually just took pictures this morning of cleaning pads for the e-book...
Here's a few... there's more as there's more way to clean pads...
Blackthorn One
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- Mar 19, 2009
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I have a dedicated pad for each LSP because I feel that the labor needed to completely clean all of the residue of one product off of the pad is a greater cost than buying a new pad, however I use small 4 inch or so diameter foam pads for applying LSPs by hand only. If I was using more expensive buffer pads, then I would figure out which LSPs I liked best and stick to 5 or less and still use dedicated pads. I believe in dedicated pads for glazes as well. When it comes to polishes, I have been using a polish that is pad dependent, so I use the same polish on many pads with satisfaction. If I wanted to change polishes I would simply clean the pads with the pad washer or by hand by letting them soak for a half hour to an hour first. I believe that polishes are a lot easier to completely clean out of pads, because they aren't designed to bond, which LSPs are, and so they will clean off completely much easier.
HeavyMetal
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- Dec 29, 2010
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And they probably are - IN THEIR CURED STATE. But until that polymerization takes place they will still be soluable in the correct mixture, otherwise they wouldn't be usable. The trick is to find the correct cleaning product(s) and don't allow the pad to dry out.
For example, I can say that UTTG is an absolute bear to get out. But then it's a solvent-based product. Their MSDS shows that it's a synthetic isoparafin with some alkylated siloxane dissolved in petroleum distillates. There are very few water-based cleaners that are gonna get that out. Naptha and mineral spirts will work - that's what I use. Lestoil to a lesser extent.
In the end, you need to understand the products you're working with and select the correct cleaning products. The only other option is to toss the pad once you use it.