Rust spots in paint, need help can't remove

WOW! This stuff works!!!! 3 applications of 4 minutes each, followed with a soft damp cloth, wash, dry, reapply. No rubbing, scrubbing, or worn out shoulders, man this was a pleasure. :xyxthumbs:
I only got the deck lid done so far. Will be days of a little here and there before I can clay bar and wax.

Thanks for turning me on to this stuff, it really works! :dblthumb2:

Bob
 
Im glad you like it
1 important notice ,
YOU CAN LEAVE IT TO DRY ON SURFACE ALSO!!
JUST NOT UNDER DIRECT SUNLIGHT, !!!
there is no problem with that...

also, no problem with any surface, only thing to avoid is acrylic painted calipers,
around the caliper need to be more careful with spraying.

on car surface its ok on any material, rubbers, plastics, glass.

you better leave it longer then 3 min..rather then applying few times..

i will post a thread i done on DW forum for facts and FAQ's about ironx.

also, good news for the near future.. some guys complained about the 1 liter cap which cant use spray head... so in the near future we will sell the ironX 1L in a plastic bottle which can be cap'd with the universal spray heads !
 
Avi@CarPro said:
Im glad you like it
1 important notice ,
YOU CAN LEAVE IT TO DRY ON SURFACE ALSO!!
JUST NOT UNDER DIRECT SUNLIGHT, !!!
there is no problem with that...

also, no problem with any surface, only thing to avoid is acrylic painted calipers,
around the caliper need to be more careful with spraying.

on car surface its ok on any material, rubbers, plastics, glass.

you better leave it longer then 3 min..rather then applying few times..

i will post a thread i done on DW forum for facts and FAQ's about ironx.

also, good news for the near future.. some guys complained about the 1 liter cap which cant use spray head... so in the near future we will sell the ironX 1L in a plastic bottle which can be cap'd with the universal spray heads !
Click to expand...
Excellent information. Thanks for those details, will make my project a little easier. :dblthumb2:
 
Alright I just couldn't wait and went out this morning as the sun came up. This Florida heat is brutal, wanted to get a jump on the sun and the temps.

For those interested, this is what I found and the process when I started.
Car had HUNDREDS of little rust specks in the paint. Sat near train tracks for about 1 year.
I washed the car, no good.
I clay barred the car TWICE, improvement of about 50% and painful shoulder. Tried to use the buffer, no improvement.

Came here and was directed to use this IRON X
Ordered from AUTOGEEK , arrived in a couple days.
Sprayed it on and let it work it's magic. I did have to leave it on for 4-5 minutes AND it took 3 applications on each panel. After the 4-5 minute wait I lightly wiped with a soft damp cloth, hosed it off, dried and repeated until no more rust. To complete todays portion of the project, I washed the car well and put it back into the garage. That said, WOW this stuff works and requires little physical effort to achieve 100% satisfaction. :dblthumb2: :dblthumb2:

I will clay the paint and then buff the finish perfect when I have time over the next week.

This forum, product, and members were a life saver. THANKS!
Bob

Product at work, purple color is the metal reacting to the IRON X.
ee2c02a4.jpg
 
BTW getting the rust off the whole car, only took about 3 1/2 hours with the IRON X. That allowed for application, rinsing and drying between each application. :xyxthumbs:
Of course the clay bar and detailing is still going to be done. I expect another 5-6 hours at least.
 
Lol new info about iron x from avi is always great.

Also 16again try the paste version next time. Its really imo not a paste but very thick gel that gets the job done much quicker in half the time!

Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk
 
OK, IRON X worked great as I have said. :dblthumb2:
Just busted my tail clay barring the car. The clay never even got dirty, guess the IRON X works on all the crap in the paint. LOL.

Anyway after washing it again I put my hand in a plastic baggie. Feels like I'm running my fingertips over sand paper. Is this because I have not yet polished the finish and it's basically unprotected raw paint?

Thanks for the help
Bob
 
You clayed it and yet it still feels rough? Usually the clay leaves the car very smooth to the touch. What level of clay where you using?
 
Rei86 said:
You clayed it and yet it still feels rough? Usually the clay leaves the car very smooth to the touch. What level of clay where you using?
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It feels like glass until I use the baggie. I used a Meguires white bar, have no idea what level it is.
 
For what it's worth the paint looks fantastic. I can't find anything on it or in it. To my hand it's super smooth, with the baggie it feels like sandpaper. I have not polished it yet, is this why it's not smooth? :buffing:
 
Don't know after claying I've never had the paint feel sandy.
 
Rei86 said:
Don't know after claying I've never had the paint feel sandy.
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When I ran my hand across it I was super proud of my work. Once I did the bag thing I was disappointed. I have about 8 hours into the IRON X and clay barring, for sure didn't take any short cuts. Paint looks best I have seen it in 10 years, just super failure of the baggie test. I'll get the buffer and put a finish on the paint and see what happens... :buffing:
 
Used a white pad and some Menzerna Final Polish. Did pretty well but I can still feel some grit in the test area. Think I'll go to a touch more aggressive pad and see where that gets me. What speed should I use the PC 7424 on? At 6 the paint gets hot. No more for today I'm beat... LOL
 
what size pads are you using? If 5.5, then try speed 5.5 and use about 4 pads for the car (maybe even less as opposed to more aggressive), switching them out after each 25%. Clean on the fly when you feel the need.

If the paint feels smooth to you and looks great then stop. I've never done a baggie test and never will. If it feels smooth to my hand, then she's good to go.

It sometimes gets to the point where an artist will ruin a piece because he can't stop adding to what he's working on.
 
Hi Tim,
I'm using the 5.5 so I'll drop the speed a hair. The paint feels fantastic with my bare hands, like glass. This whole baggie thing has got me crazy. LOL... Think I'm gonna take your advice and ditch the baggie. Thanks :xyxthumbs:
 
16again said:
When I ran my hand across it I was super proud of my work. Once I did the bag thing I was disappointed. I have about 8 hours into the IRON X and clay barring, for sure didn't take any short cuts. Paint looks best I have seen it in 10 years, just super failure of the baggie test. I'll get the buffer and put a finish on the paint and see what happens... :buffing:
Click to expand...

I always thought the baggie test is performed on a finished surface because you do not want the oils in your fingerprints to contaminate the finished layer. The fact that the test failed on an unfinished layer is probably what you would want to see since you expect it to be raw (and ready for sealing/polishing).
 
mwoolfso said:
I always thought the baggie test is performed on a finished surface because you do not want the oils in your fingerprints to contaminate the finished layer.
Click to expand...

What??? AFAIK the "baggie" test is to increase sensitivity and allow you to feel contaminants that you wouldn't otherwise.
 
mwoolfso said:
I always thought the baggie test is performed on a finished surface because you do not want the oils in your fingerprints to contaminate the finished layer. The fact that the test failed on an unfinished layer is probably what you would want to see since you expect it to be raw (and ready for sealing/polishing).
Click to expand...

No the plastic bag test was to bring you greater feel to find out if the surface of the car was contaminated. Not only would you feel the surface not being smooth but the plastic bag at times would screech because the surface wasn't flat but bumpy.

Usually after claying the surface would go back to being smooth and leveled but 16again's surface is still bumpy. Hell a car that wasn't washed in three years passed the baggie test after it was washed and clayed.
 
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