Least Aggressive M105/205???

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ArkayoDeetayo

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Hi, I know when you work on your paint, you are suppose to go from least aggresive to most. I see people using the M105/205 combo a lot but since 105 is more aggresive then 205, shouldn't I start with 205 first then work into 105? I read several threads before posting and people always start with 105 first...so I am a bit confused as I thought 105 was more aggresive.

Is it ok to go for 205 into 105 and stop after 105? Or do I always need to 205 after 105? Can anyone explain? Thanks
 
First off, yes M105 is more aggressive than M205. Here is a link that might be helpful.. http://www.auto-geek.net/charts/wax-chart.pdf

It is a good thing to use to least aggressive method first. Many people that jump to M105 already know that M205 won't give the results they are looking for. If you end up using M105 first, you should follow up with M205 to bring more gloss to the paint.
 
Yeah, you are kind of mixing two topics together here. The first is, yes you use a progression of polish/pads from coarser to finer to remove defects and then refine the finish of the paint, in the same way that if you wanted to round off a 2x4 you would start with some really coarse paper and then progress to fine paper to get a really smooth finish at the end. This is a bit blurred by the SMAT abrasive in M105 which leaves a better finish than the typical old school compound.

The "least agressive method first" is don't use a coarse polish (compound) if you just need a fine polish. Since M205 is a pretty fine polish, and since M105 finishes so well for a compound, in most cases people simply start with the 105, as was stated above.
 
The method of "starting with the least aggressive first and moving to more aggressive" is meant for the test spot, when you are first determining the condition of the paint and the products necessary to correct it.

Start out with a finer polish, if the paint comes out great then you don't need a more aggressive polish/compound. That way you don't go compounding, therefore removing a lot of paint, when all you needed was a finishing polish. But, If that polish didn't "cut it" try a more aggressive one until you are able to remove all the defects. Unfortunately a more aggressive product may leave some marks of it's own behind, which must be removed with a finer polish.

So, determine your method of attack, starting with the least aggressive. Then once you figure it out, you actually work the other way around. Working from the most aggressive and making your way down to the final, finishing polish to get that perfect gloss.
 
When you are assessing your paint to see what is the MAXIMUM correction you can get with the LEAST AGGRESSIVE combo, you are going up a continuum of different pads AND polishes. You would start with M205 and a med cut pad and see how that does. Next, try bumping the aggressiveness of the pad. Need more? Go to M105 with a medium pad and see how that does and so on...I know in my writeups, they're so damned long already, I don't go into what didn't work...only what did.
 
It should also be addressed that after every pass with M205 you should do a wipe down. M205 has a bit of polishing oils that conceals and even fills in the swirls than actually getting the defects out.
 
Wow, Thanks everyone for all your insightful post! I learned a lot, that's why I asked for all your professional opinions...

It all makes so much more sense, I thought I had to M205 the whole car, then follow up with M105, then back to 205, when you just test spot the least aggresive and move on up, thanks so much its all adding up...Glad everyone on this forum is so smart!
 
Rei86 said:
It should also be addressed that after every pass with M205 you should do a wipe down. M205 has a bit of polishing oils that conceals and even fills in the swirls than actually getting the defects out.
Click to expand...

Oh, thanks for your tip, no wonder I see people using Eraser/IPA Wipedown after M205...

Wait so if M205 hides/fills swirls rather than cut them out...and if I Eraser/IPA after to see the "true results"...what do I do to actually cut them out instead of hiding/filling them?
 
Like the PM you sent me and the PM I sent you back.

M205 is a SMAT product so it will get swirls/scratchs etc out. However I suggest doing a wipe down as the polishing oils in M205 can actually conceal some issues if you didn't do a wipe down to see the true finish.

So yes M205 WILL work and get your swirls etc etc out but make sure to just do a wipe down to be truly sure. Also when you do a wipe down it'll leave a nice bare paint so your wax/sealant/coating will have a great bare paint to bond too.
 
so you start with least aggressive pad and product (m205 and lc black)
if that doesnt cut it do you upgrade the pad first or the product first?

for example, i have m205, swirl x, scratch x, megs uc

pads
lc red lc green lc black lc white lc orange lc yellow

so would i start with 205/black. if that didnt go where would i go next? m205/white or swirl x/black?

and from there?

thanks guys i hope to have alot of pics of before/during/after tomorrow. this will be my first real correction. up until now ive just been applying waxes sealants and glazes.

my camera isnt fancy/powerful but it takes pretty good pics imo
 
I wouldn't start off with M205 and black. Go M205/White>Coarse Green>Cyan>Orange

If all else fails go for M105/Orange.

Also M205 has greater cutting ability than Swirl X.
 
ok, so should i start with swirl x then? thanks for the tips i may have gotten the pad colors confused as well, they are lc ccs pads and i think the actual colors are grey and blue/cyan not green
 
Lake Country makes a lot of pads with different colors so it can get a bit confusing but when we're talking about pads we're going to use with a DA you'll find these

Autogeek Buffing Pad Comparison Chart

also if you get the kompresser the purple goes before the yellow.
 
So here's how I did it as a first timer. I read a lot here, then I guessed. Yep - I completely based my methods on reading these forums and guessing about what would work.

I had a 96 Mazda pickup with 155K miles that was previously owned by a concrete contractor. It was water spot city, and it was covered in light, probably concrete water spots. It also had scratches, scuffs, etc.

I could have started with Megs 205 and moved to 105 if the 205 didn't work. But I decided it had too many deep paint problems to start with 205. Everyone seemed to be removing swirls and RIDS with 105 - why not start with 105 myself?!

I decided to start on the roof. If I screwed it up, then hardly anyone would notice. I did the 105 on half of the roof, it looked very good, but just a bit hazy. Than I hit it with Griots #3 (a gentler polish, closer to 205), then I topped off with Klasse AIO. Man, it popped! I ended up doing the rest of the truck with M105, Griots #3, and KAIO. For a beater truck it turned out great.

My point is you have to guess and test. If you have a beater, maybe start with the 105 in a test area. If you've got something nicer, start with 205, then drop to 105 if the 205 doesn't remove the problems. I guessed correctly that I would need something strong, like 105 to get out the nasty paint problems left after the wash and clay, and I was right.

Anyway, good luck!
 
Rei86 said:
I wouldn't start off with M205 and black. Go M205/White>Coarse Green>Cyan>Orange

If all else fails go for M105/Orange.

Also M205 has greater cutting ability than Swirl X.
Click to expand...

Just a slight correction here - Swirl X is more abrasive than M205, based on Mike's article on the aggressiveness order of SMAT products.

From the most to the least aggressive...
M105 Ultra-Cut Compound/M95 Speed Cut Compound = The same in abrading power
Ultimate Compound
ScratchX 2.0
M86 Solo Cut & Polish Cream
D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream
SwirlX
M205 Ultra Finishing Polish
​
Click to expand...
 
I was thinking about Ultimate Polish when I typed that.

Sorry for my miss info offthahorseceo
 
:0

i used swirl x after m205! thanks alot for misinforming me geeeezzee!

nah jk i did but i think the cutting abilities are so close it doesnt really make a difference. not only that i used a less aggressive pad with the swirl x so it probably was "just as" aggressive.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Yeah, you are kind of mixing two topics together here. The first is, yes you use a progression of polish/pads from coarser to finer to remove defects and then refine the finish of the paint, in the same way that if you wanted to round off a 2x4 you would start with some really coarse paper and then progress to fine paper to get a really smooth finish at the end. This is a bit blurred by the SMAT abrasive in M105 which leaves a better finish than the typical old school compound.

The "least agressive method first" is don't use a coarse polish (compound) if you just need a fine polish. Since M205 is a pretty fine polish, and since M105 finishes so well for a compound, in most cases people simply start with the 105, as was stated above.
Click to expand...

You are on point mister. :thumbsup:
 
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