Is it hard clear? Does it need to be wetsanded? Please help fast

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The Count

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Ok, so I washed and clayed my Ranger today 2008 Ranger and I started 105 it with a orange pad and my flex, I did the roof went over it 6 times and it looked better but not great, then I did the hood, on one part I had to do it 18 passes you know like 18 squares and it still wasn't perfect, you could still see some scratches and theres like little bubbles all over, so I finished the rest of the hood with 6 passes and its not near as good as I want it.

I did my 5.0 and it got like 100% correction and I was stoked

With 18 passes its prolly 90% correction and with the usual 6 passes its prolly like 45% correction.

First I thought it was my new pads cuz the new pads dusted after like 3 passes, so I went back to the old ones and they can last 6 passes easy, but then it still didn't give the results that it could have so the only thing I can think is hard clear?

What are your guy's thoughts? I'm taking up garage space now and can't have it in there for too long.
Should I wetsand it? But if I wetsand with 2000 grit would that be super hard to get those scratches out?​
 
The Count said:
What are your guy's thoughts? I'm taking up garage space now and can't have it in there for too long.

Should I wetsand it? But if I wetsand with 2000 grit would that be super hard to get those scratches out?
Click to expand...


If that's the factory paint... don't wetsand it. Too thin and my guess is this is a daily driver?

Just aim for really good, not perfect.

Hard to say much about your results without some good before and after pictures...

Can you captures some pictures to show what it looks like?


How-To capture swirls, scratches, etchings and other surface defects with your camera


If you're going to be a "Forum Person" on ANY forum, help yourself by learning how to work with picture on the Internet



Plus, most of the tips here would apply to a Flex 3401


DA Polisher Trouble Shooting Guide



I'm assuming Flex 3401 you didn't actually state which Flex tool you're using?


:)
 
My thoughts are to live with the 90% unless your very proficent at wetsanding factory clear. Even then I wouldn't recommend it as you don't know what might happen down the road
 
My thoughts are to live with the 90% unless your very proficent at wetsanding factory clear. Even then I wouldn't recommend it as you don't know what might happen down the road
 
Flash Gordon said:
My thoughts are to live with the 90% unless your very proficent at wetsanding factory clear. Even then I wouldn't recommend it as you don't know what might happen down the road
Click to expand...

Flash Gordon said:
My thoughts are to live with the 90% unless your very proficent at wetsanding factory clear. Even then I wouldn't recommend it as you don't know what might happen down the road
Click to expand...

I feel so strong about this I posted twice :doh:
 
Dang so I'll just have to go over everything 20 times then? And live with it?

And yeh its the Flex 3401 I bought it from autogeekonline >.<

And I tryed to take pictures but I just figured I'd give you percent and you'd understand.

And yeh factory paint and a DD Mike you hit that on the nose.

And now that I look at that link you sent it reminds me that mine isn't as bad as that or a lot of the swirls these guys post.
 
An Orange foam pad works well for light to moderate surface defects...Give a Yellow pad a try or possibly Hydro-Tech Cyan pad...

A rotary and a wool pad would also be a good choice....
 
Are you saying there are little bubbles in your clearcoat paint?:Picture:
 
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