M105 or UC as a 1 step?

B

big tyme

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Going to be getting my hands on an 05' Subaru STI (black). Client has limited budget but mainly just wants it to look better than it does now. No pics but I have seen the vehicle, lots of swirls and holograms. I can only get the car for 6-8 hrs and obviously in that time frame I can't get to crazy. It's a DD so I was wondering if 105 or possibly even UC would finish well enough to then glaze and top with a sealant? I will be using a GG 6" with a variety of pads and backing plates. He's not looking for perfection but I want to do the best with what I have in the given time frame. This time window will also include a quick interior detail. I just recently acquired the Megs products. I have been using other product lines for corrections and am anxious to try the 105 and/or UC, thanks.
 
If you have both do two test spots side by side and see what looks better given the requirements and time..

Meguiar's M105 is more aggressive and has a shorter working times than Meguiar's Ultimate Compound..
 
I think this could very well be done.

Here's why: I will try to put up a pic later today here for you, but I recently purchased a Black Dodge truck that was pretty beat up. It is a quad cab, so there's a lot of real estate. I was able to finish M105 down (on cyan HT pads) well enough to please me until I can do the next step. This part alone took me close to 10 hours, so I didn't have time to finish it up (it is my daily driver).

Other than that, I agree with Bobby - just do a test spot with both, see what is working best for you, and go with it.

DLB
 
I would go with D151 and a tangerine hydro tech pad. You can finished with m105 just depends on the type of pad you use and the speed your using it at

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BobbyG said:
If you have both do two test spots side by side and see what looks better given the requirements and time..

Meguiar's M105 is more aggressive and has a shorter working times than Meguiar's Ultimate Compound..
Click to expand...

Definitely will be doing the test spots. I'm rather excited about using the 105 and UC. I do have both and will most likely start with the UC as it's the least aggresive. Thanks for the tips on the working time, defintiely good to know. Should the 105 be worked till dry or is it more of a two passes then wipe product? How about the UC? Thanks to all for the tips and reassurance on my new product choices being good ones.
 
You can easily get D300/MF cutting disc combo to finish down to where it looks like the car was just waxed. It finished down really nice with no dusting. I've gone right from D300 to LSP with nice results.
 
silverfox said:
You can easily get D300/MF cutting disc combo to finish down to where it looks like the car was just waxed. It finished down really nice with no dusting. I've gone right from D300 to LSP with nice results.
Click to expand...

+1 :dblthumb2:
 
DLB said:
I think this could very well be done.

Here's why: I will try to put up a pic later today here for you, but I recently purchased a Black Dodge truck that was pretty beat up. It is a quad cab, so there's a lot of real estate. I was able to finish M105 down (on cyan HT pads) well enough to please me until I can do the next step. This part alone took me close to 10 hours, so I didn't have time to finish it up (it is my daily driver).

Other than that, I agree with Bobby - just do a test spot with both, see what is working best for you, and go with it.

DLB
Click to expand...

So true! Depends on the paint but using cyan HT pads you can cure some serious swirls and leave the paint looking unbelievably great.
 
I haven't used m105 but UC was developed from m105 for meg's consumer line so it's pretty user friendly. I've seen it remove a lot of swirls using a 7.5" polishing pad in short time.
 
I've used M105 and UC as 1-steps on my car because I couldn't get to the polishing stage in one day. They both worked really well. But of course a lot of it depends on the paint.

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big tyme said:
It's a DD so I was wondering if 105 or possibly even UC would finish well enough to then glaze and top with a sealant?
Click to expand...
If you correct well enough, you don't have to glaze. I would skip the glaze and do M205 on a finishing pad after the UC or M105.
 
truckbutt said:
If you correct well enough, you don't have to glaze. I would skip the glaze and do M205 on a finishing pad after the UC or M105.
Click to expand...

plus 1 to that or instead of using grey finnese pad with 205 might try finishing pad and let off pressure last 2-3 passes to jewel the paint.
 
Didn't make it in yesterday with the pic, but here are a couple of one of the worse areas on my truck:

DSC00479_1024x768.jpg


DSC00483_1024x768.jpg


On the after section there I didn't polish tight up on the tape (I don't like riding the tape line anyhow, and if it grabs the HT pads it will really pull the foam off). BUT, I think you can still see how well it finished.

That was just M105 and a Cyan HT pad. That part of the truck was done with my PCXP on Speed 6.

DLB
 
DLB said:
Didn't make it in yesterday with the pic, but here are a couple of one of the worse areas on my truck:

DSC00479_1024x768.jpg


DSC00483_1024x768.jpg


On the after section there I didn't polish tight up on the tape (I don't like riding the tape line anyhow, and if it grabs the HT pads it will really pull the foam off). BUT, I think you can still see how well it finished.

That was just M105 and a Cyan HT pad. That part of the truck was done with my PCXP on Speed 6.

DLB
Click to expand...

Looks good! This definitely fits the bill as far as what I'm looking to do. However I don't have any HT pads yet. My arsenal consists of Surbufs, GG's (orange, red), LC flat green and LC CCS pads (orange, white). Any suggestions on combos? Thanks for the 50/50 pics as well.
 
big tyme said:
It's a DD so I was wondering if 105 or possibly even UC would finish well enough to then glaze and top with a sealant?
Click to expand...


Depends upon your and or your customer's expectations for a quality finish, the paint type and how it reacts to polishing but the short answer is for most paints you could go from M105 to wax or paint sealant and it's going to look pretty good. It just depends upon how polishable the paint is and you're technique.


Like others posted... do a test spot, then inspect and even show the owner. For a daily driver it should be plenty good.



:)
 
BobbyG said:
If you have both do two test spots side by side and see what looks better given the requirements and time..

Meguiar's M105 is more aggressive and has a shorter working times than Meguiar's Ultimate Compound..
Click to expand...
Listen to Bobby and wish him a Happy Birthday!
 
I definitely have to say Ultimate Compound finishes down quite a bit better than M105, and that's on my really soft Honda paint as well. It's also much easier to work with in terms of buffing out. If you need a bit more cut, go with an orange LC pad, if you want it to finish down better go with a white LC pad.

Or if you don't have any pads yet I'd recommend getting a couple Meguiars microfiber finishing discs to do a 1-step with UC. Has some nice cut and finishes down amazingly well. The microfiber pads are also much easier to clean in my experience.
 
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