Corrention Choice for Jet Black BMW??

I don't mean to contradict anyone here, but regarding BMW paint, its really complicated to explain, but here is the deal...

I would say that it scratches very easily - if you don't wash it properly you will see spider webs after a short period of time and if you cut it down to a perfect finish, you could scratch the finish even using a crappy microfiber towel. It seems like its so sensitive, on the other hand...

Its very tough to work out scratches and it has a lot of resistance when you try to cut it. If all you do is buff the car, you would swear its rediculously hard because you have to spend so much time buffing and doing paint correction.

I wouldn't hesitate to use MG105 on the finish, however I would NOT use something like Tru-grit.
I think the Menzerna Super intensive polish 1500 does a better job doing paint correction on the BMW paints (with a high speed buffer and a hard to medium density polishing pad) than MG 105 and a MG burgundy cutting pad. You will spend more time working the MG105 even though its "supposed to" cut harder... But both finish really nice - although the 105 will dust a lot more...

Ive been buffing BMW paints for over 15 years and I wouldn't say - from my experience - that any of the BMW paints were softer in some years than others.
 
Cmich325i said:
I don't mean to contradict anyone here, but regarding BMW paint, its really complicated to explain, but here is the deal...

I would say that it scratches very easily - if you don't wash it properly you will see spider webs after a short period of time and if you cut it down to a perfect finish, you could scratch the finish even using a crappy microfiber towel. It seems like its so sensitive, on the other hand...

Its very tough to work out scratches and it has a lot of resistance when you try to cut it. If all you do is buff the car, you would swear its rediculously hard because you have to spend so much time buffing and doing paint correction.

I wouldn't hesitate to use MG105 on the finish, however I would NOT use something like Tru-grit.
I think the Menzerna Super intensive polish 1500 does a better job doing paint correction on the BMW paints (with a high speed buffer and a hard to medium density polishing pad) than MG 105 and a MG burgundy cutting pad. You will spend more time working the MG105 even though its "supposed to" cut harder... But both finish really nice - although the 105 will dust a lot more...

Ive been buffing BMW paints for over 15 years and I wouldn't say - from my experience - that any of the BMW paints were softer in some years than others.
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:iagree: During my short time spent on it, there's not one bit of the above that I could disagree with.
 
What about MG83?? I guess for me I want to go by what Mikes states in his videos if using the least product to get the job done.
 
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It depends what kind of results you want.
Do you want good results, very good, or excellent? You can get very good results with average work time on the MG83. You can get great results but you would have to work it much longer and probably start with a high speed for the spots that need more attention

You will have to work the MG83 for longer to get the same results as Menzerna SIP

If the car has not been wet sanded or already cut like crazy, you have a lot of room to work with. Your paint is not that sensitive that you should be afraid to work it.

If you're doing your own car, you can spend a little more time and pull out all the stops. If you're going to spend a little more time, use a better product and get Excellent results instead of very good results with a very good product.
 
Cmich325i said:
If you're doing your own car, you can spend a little more time and pull out all the stops. If you're going to spend a little more time, use a better product and get Excellent results instead of very good results with a very good product.
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The better product being MG105???
 
Late 06 early 07 Jet Black paint on these cars mar so easy, that one of my customers sold his after a year and bought a silver one.

If your paint is anything like that, I'd say try the MF pads. As far as what polish to use, in this case anything recommended above will "work" but your problem is that wiping the paint with a new towel will mess up the paint and will not stay swirl free. Try covering the imperfections, and just keep the car clean and waxed and leave it at that.

By far the worst paint I have ever worked on.

PS: DA polishers can't finish well on flat black paint, except with the MF pads in my experience.

Good luck!

Snyperx said:
So in reading the posts from cmich325i I think I may go with this option:

Menzerna PO 83
Menzerna PO 106 FA

Menzerna Ceramic Intro Kit, Menzerna polishes, nano polish, ceramic paint, ceramic polish, car polish, how to polish ceramic paint
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tdekany said:
Late 06 early 07 Jet Black paint on these cars mar so easy, that one of my customers sold his after a year and bought a silver one.

If your paint is anything like that, I'd say try the MF pads. As far as what polish to use, in this case anything recommended above will "work" but your problem is that wiping the paint with a new towel will mess up the paint and will not stay swirl free. Try covering the imperfections, and just keep the car clean and waxed and leave it at that.

By far the worst paint I have ever worked on.

PS: DA polishers can't finish well on flat black paint, except with the MF pads in my experience.

Good luck!
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Boy this would of been good info before buying the car and the DA. Oops on my part. Sounds like I am SOL regardless.
 
Snyperx said:
Boy this would of been good info before buying the car and the DA. Oops on my part. Sounds like I am SOL regardless.
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If this is an early 06, the paint is better to work on. The DA is a good choice. As a newbie you can't just pick up a rotary and start detailing.
 
tdekany said:
If this is an early 06, the paint is better to work on. The DA is a good choice. As a newbie you can't just pick up a rotary and start detailing.
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For the record the manufacture date of the car was 8/2005.
 
Snyperx said:
So I am assuming that the Poor Boy's products I mentioned earlier are not recommended being I haven't heard any feedback yet??
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Poorboy's products don't get very much mention on this site. I had used all of their products exclusively for maybe 2 years of detailing as a side business. The only products of theirs I use now are Pro Polish and SSR2 however if I were a glaze user I would have kept the Black Hole too.

Pro Polish is a very versatile product that is pad dependent. It finishes well but it removes hard so the key to finishing with it is to work it until it is invisible, leaving such a thin residue of it behind that wipe off becomes easy. There is a thin line between buffing it enough and dry buffing so it requires a bit of practice. The correction in the 50/50 below was achieved with Pro Polish using rotary, Purple foamed wool pad, white foam polishing pad and the finish was achieved using SSR1 with a red finishing pad.

025-7.jpg


I don't recommend finishing Jett Black with SSR1 because it seems no matter how you work it there are inconsistent sized abrasives that don't fully break down leaving micro scratches in an otherwise nice finish. That's why I didn't keep the SSR1. SSR2 does a nicer job believe it or not.

Black hole is a nice product to enhance the depth and clarity of the reflectivity of Jett Black but don't expect it to fill very much. It too can be hard to remove if not worked to a point where it is invisible so work it until it's gone if you do buy it.
 
You're not SOL because you have a black bmw regardless of what year it is. From my experience, you can scratch the surface of any car with a crappy microfiber cloth (when detailing) or regular washing over a period of time. Black and dark colors just show more regardless of whether its a 2005, 2006, or any other year...
You can use a DA, you can use a high speed, you can cut, polish, whatever. Ive done it all to all the different years and colors.

Unless you just had your car painted, your paint is not soft, I promise you that. The improper washing techniques can and would marr any surface of any car - BMW, Mercedes, Audi, Toyota, Lexus, Acura... You name it. If I polish a car down to a perfect finish and then take my finger and rub a circle with a crappy microfiber cloth - it will leave small scratches, which you can see on very close inspection, and this will not matter what kind of car it is - Audi, BMW, Acura, Mercedes, Lexus, etc (dark colors especially)... Some clears are marginally more resistant, but thats all... Scratch resistant clear does not mean scratch proof.

I don't think you should get discouraged from buffing your car just because of what some people might suggest. You will find out that some things work better on some finishes than others. How do you think the rest of us found that out? We try it. Some things work, some dont, some work better than others...
Your car's paint is not that soft and you will have to work the buffer to get good results. Make sure you use high quality microfiber cloths, make sure you keep your buffer pad clean, and make sure you keep dust and dirt off the surface of your car while you are working on it. Don't leave too much haze (which in turn would require much more effort to wipe off) and always make sure you don't drop the microfiber cloths on the floor and go to town wiping your car off with a rag that might have debris in it.

Its not impossible to mess up the finish on your car, but if you are using a good buffer, good products, and a good technique, Im sure your car will look better than when you started. The more familiar you get with your car's finish, the better you will be able to maintain it - but first you have to get started and don't get discouraged because you're afraid you're going to buff through your "soft" paint. Start buffing it and I promise you, you will realize its not soft at all and it will actually take a lot of work to cut it down.
 
I am not here to argue with you, but unless you work on a late 2006 or early 2007 jet black, you'd know what I am saying as far as marring the paint on those cars. And you can't say that it was my bad habit with a less than quality MF towel.

That paint is the worst marring of all paint jobs. And I am not the only one. It is very well known.


Cmich325i said:
You're not SOL because you have a black bmw regardless of what year it is. From my experience, you can scratch the surface of any car with a crappy microfiber cloth (when detailing) or regular washing over a period of time. Black and dark colors just show more regardless of whether its a 2005, 2006, or any other year...
You can use a DA, you can use a high speed, you can cut, polish, whatever. Ive done it all to all the different years and colors.

Unless you just had your car painted, your paint is not soft, I promise you that. The improper washing techniques can and would marr any surface of any car - BMW, Mercedes, Audi, Toyota, Lexus, Acura... You name it. If I polish a car down to a perfect finish and then take my finger and rub a circle with a crappy microfiber cloth - it will leave small scratches, which you can see on very close inspection, and this will not matter what kind of car it is - Audi, BMW, Acura, Mercedes, Lexus, etc (dark colors especially)... Some clears are marginally more resistant, but thats all... Scratch resistant clear does not mean scratch proof.

I don't think you should get discouraged from buffing your car just because of what some people might suggest. You will find out that some things work better on some finishes than others. How do you think the rest of us found that out? We try it. Some things work, some dont, some work better than others...
Your car's paint is not that soft and you will have to work the buffer to get good results. Make sure you use high quality microfiber cloths, make sure you keep your buffer pad clean, and make sure you keep dust and dirt off the surface of your car while you are working on it. Don't leave too much haze (which in turn would require much more effort to wipe off) and always make sure you don't drop the microfiber cloths on the floor and go to town wiping your car off with a rag that might have debris in it.

Its not impossible to mess up the finish on your car, but if you are using a good buffer, good products, and a good technique, Im sure your car will look better than when you started. The more familiar you get with your car's finish, the better you will be able to maintain it - but first you have to get started and don't get discouraged because you're afraid you're going to buff through your "soft" paint. Start buffing it and I promise you, you will realize its not soft at all and it will actually take a lot of work to cut it down.
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I just re-read my thread and I still haven't come to a conclusion on what products to get. LOL!!! At the moment I am leaning toward:

Merz PO 83
Merz PO 106 A
 
If this is for your 2006 (early 06) you will be able to finish fine. BUT either way you will need something powerful to level the paint. You are working with a german finish. Use 105 from Meguiar's to level. Chose a pad based on how bad the paint is.



Snyperx said:
I just re-read my thread and I still haven't come to a conclusion on what products to get. LOL!!! At the moment I am leaning toward:

Merz PO 83
Merz PO 106 A
Click to expand...
 
tdekany said:
If this is for your 2006 (early 06) you will be able to finish fine. BUT either way you will need something powerful to level the paint. You are working with a german finish. Use 105 from Meguiar's to level. Chose a pad based on how bad the paint is.
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So maybe I should do this:

MG #105 (orange/green coarse pad)
MG #83 (white pad)
MG #205/MG #3 (gray pad)

Collinite #845 (red pad)
 
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