klasse Sealant... Insane elbow grease!

DaC

DaC

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Guys I just tried for the first time the Klasse Sealant......
I applied it with my GG 6" ROP with Lake Country Low Profile HT Crimson 5.5" pad.

I first applied it over the entire car and tried to remove after (as for directions on the bottle said to let it dry)...
I mean... I just tried to remove it, because it was impossible to do it.....
I spent almost 2 hours rubbing the car with a meg's microfiber towel but it was impossible to take all of it off...

Can you guys comment on this... did I did something wrong ?
Is there a trick to remove it ?

In despair I even tried to wrap a mf towel around the cyan pad.... it did break the most difficult spot, but couldn't remove it at all... and at that point I got worried about messing all the polishing work I did....
 
Sounds like you put it on way too thick. All you need is a thin uniform layer over the entire surface. You should be able to just barely see it almost like a thin coat of oil over the entire surface. 3 pea sized drops is all it should take to do most panels.
 
First, until you've figured it out, machine application is not recommended.

Sounds like it was applied too thick. KHGSG is one of those products where, if you can see it, it is applied too thick.

Also, it is either a WOWO or let it sit for 1 hr (or more) product.

Use a QD (or even diluted KHGSG) with MF. That generally loosens it enough to get it off. Be prepared to do same over the next couple of days.

Want to ask how I know? :)
 
What ever put it on will take it off. In other words reapply the sealant and while it's still wet take it off. You may have to do small sections and go through a few towels but it will come off without all the elbow grease.
 
JonMiles said:
Sounds like you put it on way too thick. All you need is a thin uniform layer over the entire surface. You should be able to just barely see it almost like a thin coat of oil over the entire surface. 3 pea sized drops is all it should take to do most panels.
Click to expand...

Now wait a minute.... are you saying klasse sealant should be creamy ? Because mine is 100% liquid, it's impossible to put a pea size drop with it....
Is my klasse defective ?

mjlinane said:
First, until you've figured it out, machine application is not recommended.

Sounds like it was applied too thick. KHGSG is one of those products where, if you can see it, it is applied too thick.

Also, it is either a WOWO or let it sit for 1 hr (or more) product.

Use a QD (or even diluted KHGSG) with MF. That generally loosens it enough to get it off. Be prepared to do same over the next couple of days.

Want to ask how I know? :)
Click to expand...

What do you mean "over the next couple days " ? lol....
I think I'll try to clean it only next weekend after washing my car... is there a problem waiting for that long ?

rzatch said:
What ever put it on will take it off. In other words reapply the sealant and while it's still wet take it off. You may have to do small sections and go through a few towels but it will come off without all the elbow grease.
Click to expand...

Cool....

Guys can I use ONR as QD to take it off ? I'm asking because it would be cheaper than using more klasse....
 
The streaking may return over the next few days depending on how hot it is.

I use Sonus Acrylic Spritz but ONR probably will work. Or you can cut KHGSG 1:1 with distilled water and use that. Shouldn't need more than 1 oz (+ 1 oz water). Have I mentioned it needs to be applied really thin?
 
mjlinane said:
The streaking may return over the next few days depending on how hot it is.

I use Sonus Acrylic Spritz but ONR probably will work. Or you can cut KHGSG 1:1 with distilled water and use that. Shouldn't need more than 1 oz (+ 1 oz water). Have I mentioned it needs to be applied really thin?
Click to expand...

If not by machine, what do you use to apply it ?
 
I am simply going to quote from this my thought and comments fromthis thread: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...2231-newbie-klasse-application-questions.html

TroyScherer said:
The most import part is the prep. You didn't mention KAIO but I would suggest getting/using some in your prep before applying KSG.

I just applied 3 coats of KSG this past weekend to start my winter prep. I Mixed my KSG 2:1 with Distilled water. (2 parts water / 1 part KSG) In the past I have used it straight but I wanted to try it this way and see if there is any difference. I found mixed at this ratio or even 3-or-4:1 the KSG application dries faster and you can re-coat after an hour or so. I applied 4 layers over 2 days and didn't buff anything off until after the last layer had setup.

Either way I would suggest transferring an ounce or more of product into a small travel sprayer. I would mist the pad first and get it primed. Begin to Glide it across each panel and continue on until the applicator get grabby. If as you apply it you have a film left keep spreading!!! The thinner you apply it the easier it is to remove. The first time I used KSG I ended up with some spots that were rock hard because I applied it like a thick paste wax the way my father taught me. :awman: Not fun. After the 1st vehicle I haven't had any problems.
Click to expand...


First off it sounds like your KSG is fine. it is a whiteish liquid. You must be VERY careful with applying it to use the least amount possible.
I would strongly suggest NOT applying using a buffer. I only apply it by hand using a foam applicator or a MF applicator. Both work well. I have not found many if anyone that applies it using a DA.
One of the best ways to apply KSG is to transfer 1-2 oz to a small spray bottle and mist the applicator and then apply it to the paint as thin as possible. Cutting a 1:1 or even 2:1 with water works great.
 
By hand. As it should be applied thin enough not to see, you use feel. Seriously.
 
everyone has given you good advice

I apply it like opticoat; mist the pad, scrunch to distribute, then wipe it on the paint, watch it flash off then go over high spots (areas where there was too much put on to flash). I didn't even have to wipe anything off afterwards.

The first coat is the most important to get thin. Once the surface is sealed, it isn't as important to get subsequent coats as thin.
 
Get one of those small spray bottles (they sell them on ebay 5 for $5.75), put a couple of ounces of Klasse Sealant in and spray directly onto the paint. One spritz should be enough for one panel. Then, work it in with a soft microfiber pad or a microfiber towel.
 
I like to apply one drop to hand foam applicator rub into paint until it dissapears work around vehicle doing this wait forty five minutes to an hour remove comes off easaly sometimes there is nothing to remove because the product is worked into the paint.
 
I have used Klass on clear coated wheels. I cut down foam as an applicator so it fits in the corners and smaller areas where a full size pad is too large. So THIN you have to feel where you covered.
 
Klasse High Gloss Paint Sealant and other similar sealants can be tricky to apply and if applied too thick, lets just say you'll get a great workout removing them.

I apply Klasse High Gloss Sealant with a Porter Cable 7424 dual action polisher and a blue foam pad. Do one panel at a time until you're comfortable with the product.


  1. Spray the pad with detail spray
  2. Apply several drops of product to the pad
  3. Machine speed 4
  4. Work into paint keeping it thin, almost transparent
  5. Let haze then buff

From the Klasse Page.

"DAMPEN YOUR MICROFIBER PAD with a quick detailer, such as Wolfgang Instant Detail Spritz or DP Final Gloss. Then apply a dime-sized amount of Klasse onto the pad. Wipe in long, layered strokes and use just a little pressure; it won’t hinder the results. Let the sealant remain on the entire surface area of your vehicle until it is absolutely dry before you buff your car. Mist the surface with quick detail spray if it resists buffing."
 
As I have offered for years ... use a fine spray mist bottle (ie travel size spray) and spritz the panel no more than 2 times, and immediately buff off. Any hard residue, spritz and rebuff immediately. Allow 24 hours to cure and dont add water which can reduce its superior durability.
 
WoW guys! thank you so much for all advices.... I was hitting "+" to quote, then I realized I had to quote everybody..... :dblthumb2: :dblthumb2: :dblthumb2:

I'd like to add that this was in fact a revisit from almost a month ago: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...st-time-polishing-vw-gol-meg-s-up-1-step.html

When I used Ultimate Polish with the kompressor tangerine pad and collinite #885 as LSP...

As I received a couple of new products, I thought it would be nice to try them: http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/42732-family-just-got-bigger.html

So this time I used Megs M205 with LC Flat Low Profile 5.5" Tangerine pad and klasse was the LSP with 1 layer only....

Here are some pics from the car finished....

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