I'm seeing many people use 845IW as a topper??????

Assuming it does have a "cleaning" effect... what is at risk of being removed? Are we talking things like sealants only being affected, or is it possible that it could go as far as stripping a layer of previously applied wax as well??

I'd hate to apply a high end wax to my car and then hit it with 845 a week later for some added protection only to have 845 remove everything that was underneath.
 
rider9195 said:
I use Collinite 845 over BFWD and WGDGPS all the time. I don't feel like it removes the base sealant.
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I don't see how one could possibly know for sure that this is the case. Do you have any methods or observations that tell you that your base sealant is in fact not removed by the #845? I find layering an LSP as just passing time and not really gaining any useful end result other than knowing I have complete and thorough coverage. JMO
 
I agree with Dave. I've veered away from the idea of topping one product with a different product, or of applying multiple (3+) layers in a short period of time. There's never been any verifiable, scientific proof that waxes or sealants layer; and the only scientific test I've seen on it (on DW), showed that the product tends to an equilibrium of a layer around 20 to 30 nanometers thick, with additional applications actually removing some of that thickness. I'll apply two layers, to ensure complete coverage; any more seems like wasted product to me.
 
Then again if most of us didn't waste our LSPs, would we ever use them up?
 
Heh, true enough. I only got into detailing this January, and basing on my current usage rate (apply two layers every 6 weeks) I already have enough waxes and sealants to last me for over 10 years :help:
 
umi000 said:
Heh, true enough. I only got into detailing this January, and basing on my current usage rate (apply two layers every 6 weeks) I already have enough waxes and sealants to last me for over 10 years :help:
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Hah, this is why I liked buying my abused BMW. 10 years worth of neglect means I always have something to improve so correcting, waxing, stripping, correcting waxing and so on keeps me very entertained and using all of my products. Sometimes I wish I had a newer car to keep flawless, but this (i think) is way more fun. :)
 
I have alot of wax and related product in storage. I have found that based on last years experience I went with the Duragloss 601/105 combo. Then topped it with 845-IW. This is all that I need to get me thru the winter slush, snow and salt, etc. It has become my go to solution. I may go back with a spritz of aquawax depending on temperature later. Maintain thru ONR and coin-op and when warmer weather shows up next year will do a complete cleanup and reapply the combo/845.
 
I'm just waiting to wipe off the products, and then il start a thread. I'm not going to top the BFWD until tomorrow. The reason being, I figure most of us here wait for it to cure before topping. So I want to keep the test true to that. Oh and the Collinite totally failed at doing anything at all to the sharpie mark. I had to polish it off. IPA, and clay did nothing. So invalid test on that one.
 
courtdale said:
I'd hate to apply a high end wax to my car and then hit it with 845 a week later for some added protection only to have 845 remove everything that was underneath.
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Me too!!

One may never actually know, though, unless:
Somehow, a very expensive microscope, along with other approved engineering protocols/equipment, were to be made available for observing/measuring the process of: What in the Blue-Blazes is occuring while an additional application (2nd LSP, or more) of an LSP is being applied {For that matter, the 1st LSP, even!}; by what type applicator (MF pad,Terry Cloth pad, hand/fingers, etc.); amount of "pressure" being applied by each individual person/'machine'; the length of drying/curing time; and so on, and so on...ad infinitum...(ad nauseam, perhaps?).


Often though, empirical results may differ from laboratory, and field-testing results.


Due to subject matter at hand:
I'm more than grateful to add Layering/Topping to the list of subjects that I have the pleasure to enjoy, and to join in on: "The Discussions"!!

:)

Bob
 
tw33k2514 said:
I'm just waiting to wipe off the products, and then il start a thread. I'm not going to top the BFWD until tomorrow. The reason being, I figure most of us here wait for it to cure before topping. So I want to keep the test true to that. Oh and the Collinite totally failed at doing anything at all to the sharpie mark. I had to polish it off. IPA, and clay did nothing. So invalid test on that one.
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That's good to know. Thanks, also, for awaiting: "Cure-Times". :props:

Wonder what your particular sharpie's "marking material ingredient(s)" would be....HMMMMM

I'll see what I can come up, if that's alright with you (and others?)


PS: It's not snowing on you yet, is it?

:)

Bob
 
While I don't have access to an electron, i am surrounded by regular compound scopes every day working in a science dept. Can I mimic this test using regular glass slides? Possibly applying products/wiping and analyzing on glass??
 
tw33k2514 said:
See what you can find. I used a standard blue sharpie
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As long as any "sharpie marker" is in compliance with.....

ASTM D4236:
Standard Practice for Labeling Art Materials for Chronic Health Hazards

....It may be manufactured for sale in the USA.

The Banford Sharpie Permanent Marker meets those credentials. [My Sharpies state: "Not for Letter Writing or Cloth; Non-Toxic; and, Conforms to ASTM D4236" ]

MSDS:
Their pigments, though, are either natural mineral, organic, or Historical....And compliant....But, as seen with other products....Proprietary! :( [I probably won't research further]

:)

Bob
 
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courtdale said:
While I don't have access to an electron, i am surrounded by regular compound scopes every day working in a science dept. Can I mimic this test using regular glass slides? Possibly applying products/wiping and analyzing on glass??
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IMO....Glass slides may not be: Made from the 'purest' form of silica "smooth surfaced" enough....However made from the 'purest' form of silica micro-chips may offer such a surface. Have you any access to some of those?

Wouldn't hurt to try your glass slides/scopes, if your workplace (Science Dept.) will allow you to do so....No sense "getting into trouble" over a coating/layer of wax!

:)

Bob
 
I use it over My WG sealant with no issues other than I'm good till next spring.It definitely gets me through the winter months and into spring
 
Speaking of "layers":

I would like to take this opportunity to express my token of gratitude to the ones I feel are the best layers....

"Cheers, Girls, and many happy returns"!!!





:D

Bob
 
lot going on in this thread

definitely interested to see some test results after winter as I am guilty of topping various sealants with 845

Everyone seems to be addressing sealants such as BFWD or KSG. What about sealants that do not require any cure time?

For example, I've been known to top XMT360 or poorboys PwS within in an hour of polishing. Is it more likely i'm removing that initial layer of protection with 845 since the sealants have not been given any (nor are described as needing) time to cure? Another question we dont have a solid answer for I suppose. just throwing another variable into the equation
 
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