Can anyone tell me the comparison to the 2? I have the M105 but I have a very hard time using it and I've watched videos etc but I want to see about other compounds. The first heavy compound I ever used was a 3M Compound and it gut real well was easy to use but it leaves a has that M105 doesn't.
Does the optimum compare to M105?
I've only used Optimum Compound II a couple of times as compared to M105 and I can't say that I like it that much. Both times it was on relatively soft paint and it became very sticky after a couple of passes and difficult to wipe off. It also didn't cut as fast or as much as compared to M105. I've always use a wet MF to wipe off M105 and so I did the same with Compound II so it worked out ok. I tried using different amounts and different pads to eliminate the stickiness, but wasn't totally successful. The finish wasn't any better than M105, so I concluded why bother changing from M105 when it didn't really offer any advantage. To be fair I won't write it off until I've tried it on other paint types, but my gut feel is that I'll stay with M105. I've used M105 for a long time and I can only recall a couple of times when M105 just didn't play well. However those occasions do crop up from time to time so you always need to be prepared with some other compound on hand.
The trick to using M105 is to carefully prime your pad (LC orange is the usual choice). Google the KBM method. Basically you need to spread M105 on your pad in concentric circles. Then thoroughly work the M105 into the pad with your hands, so that the M105 is completely absorbed into the pad. Pays to wait about 5 minutes before starting to correct. Use enough product to make the pad damp, but not wet. Then add about 4 pea size drops for each section. Keep your work area small - no more than 16"x16" or smaller. Don't be concerned it it appears to flash over, just keep polishing. You won't be polishing dry because your pad is primed. It will dust, but keep polishing through the dust. As long as you can see a film as you polish you are ok. As you already know it cuts extremely fast so you really don't need long work times. Just keep compounding until you have corrected the defects. When you're done wash off the residue with a wet MF. Rinse the MF and wring dry and do your final wipe off. Using a wet MF will also help clean up the dust. Many here get upset about the dust, but personally I don't see it as any sort of issue. A vehicle is going to washed multiple times between compounding and final finish, so why be concerned about a little dust.
Important - work clean. Each time you put the polisher down make sure you clean the pad with a pad brush before adding more product for the next section. The pad brush will ensure you remove the dust and the spent product and paint from the pad. Be prepared to use about 4 pads for an average size vehicle. Some here claim spritzing with water extends the cut, but I prefer to work without water.
On a DA use speed 6 and plenty of pressure on the pad. If using a rotary 1200-1500 rpm, but generally I need no more than 1200. Another option if using a rotary is the LC Purple foamed wool pad as it will run cooler than orange foam.
If you do get any hazing or holograms then both can be removed with a follow up of M205 on a polishing pad. If you are keen to try Optimum's polishes, Optimum's Polish II is very similar to M205 and could be used instead of M205. You can get 8 oz samples of Compound II, Polish II and Finish if you just want to try them out.
