Clear bra installed, how to remove swirls???

[sportscarhiatus]

With the stupid weather here (I admit I jinxed it...lol) :dig:, it caused me to delay the install until the skies cleared up somewhat. So Thursday last week was the ONLY day of the week that didn't have rain or light snow flurries. Luckily the roads were dry, so I proceeded to go to my appointment to get the clearbra and tint installed. THANK GOODNESS! Now I can finally drive my car on the highway hahahahahaha... with no fear of chips.

Anyways, I'm very pleased with the clear bra results. My new installer was great. Lines and edges are all lined up. No bubbles. No peeling. It was the best install I've seen (had it done twice in prior cars). The brand was 3M. Lifetime warranty (as long as I own the car) through my guy.

What I had done:

• hood
• front bumper (I love the 3 piece of this... it ends right on the crease of where the vertical meets the horizontal surface of the front bumper...can't even see it!)
• mirrors
• a-pillars (custom cut)
• front fenders
• inner door handles (love this one. No more fingernails scratches from my wife opening the door, or from anyone else for that matter)

Tint was also done by him. We went with Llumar for tint. I like it better than 3M, tint-wise. 35% fronts, then 20% everywhere else. I just love the new look. It totally transforms it.

Only thing about the clearbra install, some minor swirls and marring was unavoidable. He had to wipe and scrape (using his MF towels and silicone blade) to get the film to lay flat... so swirls were apparent in the areas closest to the edge of the film. Also, bless his heart, I believe he proceeded to wipe down certain areas of the car that he thought was dirty. Of course, minor swirling came from that. But that's ok, I whipped out my PC, and use a white pad with Power Finish, then moved on to a gray pad with CG BlackLight as a sort of "all in one". Results are amazing. Just about 4 hours worth of work, and it's all good now.

Car is still dirty in these pics, but you get the idea. By the way, to ANYONE contemplating ClearBra, DO SO. NOW. That is by far the single, best, AND first mod, you should do. Once you get a rock chip, it's permanent...

I just wish there was a way to remove the swirls and marring from the film itself. I know you're not supposed to polish the film right? And using alcohol and an MF, that's only for deep scratches in the film. I find that it never really removes the light swirls. Any ideas??? I know it's not on the paint itself so that's good, but still... it bothers me. LOL.

btw, I also got the tint done... 35% fronts, 20% all others.

^^^ You can see the marring and swirls in the pic above if you zoom in.

^ This is my favorite clear bra portion. I love the film in the inside door pockets...

 

[sportscarhiatus]

no one has any input???? come on people. I know a lot of you there have clear bras. You have to had noticed marring and swirling on the film.

 

[eaglefan]

Sorry, no clear bra. Are you allowed to have tint on windshield where you live, visor? In Florida we have them. Darkens car up even more and it is functional. Your ride is bad aZZZ!

 

[sportscarhiatus]

Sorry, no clear bra. Are you allowed to have tint on windshield where you live, visor? In Florida we have them. Darkens car up even more and it is functional. Your ride is bad aZZZ!

Thanks!

No tint on windshield... am pretty sure that's illegal where I'm at. Would have been nice tho.

 

[BWG707]

Could you tell what the clear bras cost, mainly if I was to have just the hood and front fenders? Out of curiousity what did they charge for the A pillars and the 2 door handles? If you want you could PM me the prices. I'm already tinted so I'm interested in just the clear bra. Thanks.

 

[Conan]

You can try some polishes with fillers, that's what I do with mine that's located near my trunk. It easily gets water spots too!

 

[sportscarhiatus]

Could you tell what the clear bras cost, mainly if I was to have just the hood and front fenders? Out of curiousity what did they charge for the A pillars and the 2 door handles? If you want you could PM me the prices. I'm already tinted so I'm interested in just the clear bra. Thanks.

It will vary a lot depending on installer and location. But for a basic front end plus a pillars, it will cost you between 500 - 1000. Yes, it can vary that much.

You can try some polishes with fillers, that's what I do with mine that's located near my trunk. It easily gets water spots too!

I get worried about the film discoloring or getting hazy after polishing. I wish I had a test subject. So you used polishes by hand or by buffer? And kind/brand of each did you use?

 

[FUNX650]

no one has any input???? come on people. I know a lot of you there have clear bras. You have to had noticed marring and swirling on the film.

Please see the following:

Quote:[from XPel]
The best solution is going to be to use 3M Perfect -It part# 06064 Machine Polish, with the coordinating buffing pad part# 05738. #Use a an Orbital buffer at the lowest speed and then gradually progress up as needed. #This must be done very carefully so that you don't burn through the film. #I usually hit the area a few times for about 15-30 seconds each time. #If this doesn't work the stain might have seeped through the pores under the top coat and could be perminent.

I've also had success with 3M Finesse-It II Finishing Material (3M # 05928) on a foam polishing pad, speed 2-3 on the PC, with very light pressure. Make sure to not linger more than 15-20 seconds on any area. You can always go back if needed..don't want to overheat the PPF. Apply a clear sealant when finished.

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/auto-detailing-101/37359-question-concerning-3m-clear-bra.html

...was to share some information regarding the removal process (buffing) of the PPF. To me, it is similar to buffing a bc/cc paint's top-coating in the cautions one must take.

There are three layers to PPF: The "protective polyurethane" top-coating; the middle layer of polyurethane; and the lower layer of adhesive baking.

There are also two versions of PPF. One version has a "protective" PU top-coating of an aliphatic polyurethane. The other version has a "protective" aromatic polyurethane top-coating.
Long story short: Aliphatic PU is non-yellowing; has the best UV/color stability and weathering protection; excellent chemical resistance; and resists staining. It is the best for exterior applications. Aromatic PU, although excellent in some of the above categories, is more susceptible to yellowing, less UV/color stability, and is recommended for indoor/underground applications. The PPF with the aliphatic PU top-coating is, of course, more expensive. It is also the best for automotive purposes.

Herein lies the comparison I make between PPF's top-coatings and clear-coat top-coated paint. We are told by OEMs, and others, to not remove more than .5 mils total of 2-2.5 mils of this clear-coat paint's top-coat because there is where the majority of the UV protection/inhibitors lay. With PPF the "protective" top-coating layer, that has the UV protection and other inhibitors, is usually only between .3 and .5 mils thick.

To me, this would mean an adjustment in ones buffing process thinking. Whereas removal of .5 or less mils from the clear-coat may be acceptible, removal of that same amount of the PPF's "protective" PU top-coating may make the PPF look good now, but would surely increase the possibility for the PPF to start yellowing and "fail" prematurely....and, thusly, would void any warranties.

Just some thoughts I had regarding PPF.

Friendly reminder...
Typing "Clear Bras" into this Forum's Search Function yields many, many more threads regarding this subject matter.



Bob

 

[wgilles]

Good stuff up there Bob.

I used Poorboys Blue polish with Carnuba and it took ALL the swirls out of the car bra without using a machine.

 

[RaskyR1]

Please don't take this the wrong way as I just want people to know right from wrong, but swirls in your paint, and especially the brand new PPF is completely unacceptable IMO! There is no reason you should get your car back that way and I have several friends who install the film and they are 100% swirl free.

Polishing can be done, even though they say not too (how else do they expect us to get the swirls out? ) However, there are limitations and special care should be taken when doing so to avoid excess heat, and I would also avoid aggressive pads like wool or MF.

Here is the hood of a car I did a couple weeks ago. The installer that did this car also did a very poor job and either swirled the heck out of the film during his install or when he washed it.

This was after a couple passes of SIP/Tangerine LC on the DA followed by 106fa/Black LC on the DA.

On my next new car I will be doing a full hood and fender wrap, no seams, and I will be using the self healing film by Xpel! rops:

Self Healing Paint Protection Film - XPEL ULTIMATE Paint Protection Film


Rasky

 

[FUNX650]

Good stuff up there Bob.

I used Poorboys Blue polish with Carnuba and it took ALL the swirls out of the car bra without using a machine.

Thanks.

Glad you had such great success with swirl-removal on your clear bra!

Although I tend to stay away from 'carnuba products' on PPF, I too have removed a few swirls and light scratches by hand...Sometimes it's less stressful that way, also.



Bob

 

[wgilles]

Thanks.

Glad you had such great success with swirl-removal on your clear bra!

Although I tend to stay away from 'carnuba products' on PPF, I too have removed a few swirls and light scratches by hand...Sometimes it's less stressful that way, also.



Bob

Any reason why you stay away from Carnuba? Does it discolor the PPF? If so, they also make one w/o the Carnuba I believe...

 

[FUNX650]

Any reason why you stay away from Carnuba? Does it discolor the PPF? If so, they also make one w/o the Carnuba I believe...

Over the years I've discovered that carnuba waxes, and sealants w/some carnuba waxes in them, will discolor PPF. It's best, IMO, to use clear sealants, or sealants that upon curing will be clear. (BTW...This is what is recommended by the PPF manufacturers, and their warranty-depts.)

I use XPel's sealant now.
Corporate Office & Training Center:
XPEL Technologies Corp.
618 W. Sunset Road
San Antonio, Texas 78216 U.S.A
Toll Free: (800) 447-9928
International: (210) 678-3700
Fax: (210) 678-3701
email: [email protected]

Also:
Premier Protection Films International (Their: PF-1 T.T.R., best stuff for "scuffs")
510.406.1500
510.623.1308
sales@premiermobilegroup



Bob

 

[wgilles]

Cool thanks. I also heard Plexus works very well.

 

[wgilles]

Just ordered a sample of the Xpel sealant, thanks for the recommendation.

 

[FUNX650]

Cool thanks. I also heard Plexus works very well.

Plexus is not recommended for PPF!

Use plexus on polycarbonate---headlights, MC visors, etc.



Bob

 

[Mike lambert]

I use a installer who teaches for 3m,as of now he is in china teaching. He has told me that 3m film can be polished with a da. I have had great success with m205 and a finishing pad at 4 on a pc

 

[sportscarhiatus]

Wow... thanks for all the responses. I learned so much already just by reading your responses. So here is what I gather:

1) 3M film can be polished just like any clear coat. But, there are concerns to be taken into consideration in terms of heat buildup. Is that a fair assessment? I guess I am a "little" worried that polishing the film will lead to removing the UV protective top layer of the film, which in turn is bad for the paint underneath. So I don't want that to happen.

2) Clear sealants must be used on the film for best results, and to prevent yellowing. I plan on using CG Jetseal. Any issue with that sealant? I also have Blackfire, WGDGPS, 4Star, and Polylock.

So I plan on using my PC, at speed 4, with a gray LC CCS pad, with PO85RD or Super Finish to start out with. Anyone see any issue with that? If it needs more, I can step up to a white pad with PO85RD/Super Finish.

Thing of it is, I can "live" with the swirls on the film...but it just bothers me But I don't want to ruin the $$$ I paid for the film.


Oh and Rasky, I totally hear you on the swirls on the paint AND the film thing. But see, I'm from a small town here in the midwest, and there isn't much choice for anything. In otherwords, I'd have to drive to like Chicago or somewhere big to have REAL QUALITY work. It is what it is. My paint is partially swirled from him wiping it down, esp on the edges to get the film to lay flat. I didn't want to be a total jacka$$ about it too. Hell, I even PROVIDED the 10 clean MF's he used to finish the install. He loved my stuff so much I told him he could keep it...lol. I shudder to think if I did NOT give him the towels to use in the first place, how mucked up my paint would be.

As for the swirls on the film... I think that would be really hard for an installer to avoid doing that. I mean he's spraying alcohol, wiping, using silicone blade, etc etc... repeatedly. I can understand if there's some. But man, maybe your guys' installers are WAYYYYY better.

But it's all good, all the swirls are gone from my paint now. Just have to worry about the swirls on the film.

 

[tdekany]

Straight 70% IPA - take a micro fiber towel, and pour a good amount into the towel. Keep wiping it into the bra and add more as needed. Dry wipe with another towel.

YOU ARE WELCOME.

 

[sportscarhiatus]

Straight 70% IPA - take a micro fiber towel, and pour a good amount into the towel. Keep wiping it into the bra and add more as needed. Dry wipe with another towel.

YOU ARE WELCOME.

The installer told me this too, but that's only for deep scratches. I tried it on my other 3M film before, it doesn't really remove swirls, per se...esp if done by hand.