Yyyyeaaahh bbbbuuuudddyyyy!!!

[Kaban]

Sounds like you had some fun there Alko So how exactly does the rotary save the time? Is it that you have to move it faster than a DA? I assumed you still need to do the same amount of section passes but you just moved the buffer at a faster pace. I know the rotary has more correction power for sure I've just never been able to figure out exactly how it saves time.

Not at all. It spins alot faster so it corrects alot faster the same amount of passes.You actually need fewer passes (alot fewer in many cases) to fully correct a panel compared to a typical weakling PC. As far as the hard time controlling a rotary, you'll get over that pretty quick if you use the machine. I had the same issues. Keep the entire machine leveled when you polish (raise the rear of the machine to the point where the entire buffer is leveled with the surface being polished). That keeps the pad flat and very very easy to control. If you have to fight the machine to control it, you know you aren't doing it right. So practice on some junk panels til you get the hang of it.

 

[Danube]

Hey guys!!! I'm done for the night! The PE-14 is FANTASTIC!!! I've never in my life touched a rotary polisher, but this machine was awesome to work with. It does take some getting used to though...and if you don't have a nice firm grip on it, especially along curved parts of a vehicle it was try to run away from you. I love the fact that this machine is quiet and has hardly any vibration. I can't believe I waited this long to try it out.

Sorry, there's no before pics of the car...I'll take some after pics tomorrow. I plan on jeweling with PO85RD....I hope it doesn't take long. I still need to do the inside of the car.

Alko, it would be helpful if you describe what pads/compounds you used in the process.

(I'm itchy as my PE14 is sitting on the desk waiting for the BP's to arrive).

Thanks

 

[alko]

Sweet! Finally getting a chance to use it - great. Be sure to post some pics of the job. Wait until you see how quickly you can finish a car with a rotary. Half the time usually. I am still shopping for a new rotary but there are too many choices and many good machines.


-Sparty

I know right?! Its been what...2 months since I got it?! SHEESH!


It really did cut down the time in half. A few times I really had to dig in and get a grip on it. I feel like I need to hit the gym or something LMAO!

Heck yeah! Just be careful with it. Respect its power and ability to damage paint quickly. Its only happened once, but it got away from me going over a curved panel. I bumped the bp against the door handle, not good.


106FA + PE 14-2 + Crimson Hydro-Tech pad =

Yep....I know exactly what you mean about the curved panel. I got alittle nervous the first time I hit the curve...I literally said "oh chit" out loud.


Funny you sent me that PM...

Hey Alex,



Like I've said many times; I have no regrets buying either of my Flex machines, I love them both.....



Glad you finally broke that thing out!!

Bobby...I'm glad I took your advice on the Kompressor pads...they were awesome to use. I hope I can get a decent job out of the black kompressor pads and PO85RD.

Alex! Seal your rotary! I double-coated mine with UTT&G. I thought it would make it easier to clean after a long day's use.

I was thinking about sealing mine with PERL. Don't have any of that fancy UTTG...yet. Lol, it will probably be a while before I get some of that gold.



-Rick

I haden't even thought about that...it doesn't make it slippery?

Sounds like you had some fun there Alko So how exactly does the rotary save the time? Is it that you have to move it faster than a DA? I assumed you still need to do the same amount of section passes but you just moved the buffer at a faster pace. I know the rotary has more correction power for sure I've just never been able to figure out exactly how it saves time.

Man I had a ball!!!...it cuts the polishing time down practically in half. You can really see how the product breaks down. I think I could have done without the extra passes with the Flex, but I wanted to make sure I was working the product in.

Alko, it would be helpful if you describe what pads/compounds you used in the process.



(I'm itchy as my PE14 is sitting on the desk waiting for the BP's to arrive).



Thanks

I used Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover on 5.5" white Lake Country Kompressor pads. For the smaller area's I used 4" LC Tangerine Hydrotech pads, and 4" Orange LC CCS pads (mainly on the front bumper). I wiped down with GG Pre-Wax cleanser. Tomorrow I plan on using either 5.5" black LC Kompressor pads or 5.5" grey CCS pads for the PO85RD. I really wish I had some blue flat pads, then again I didn't plan on using Wolfgang TSR or my Flex at all.

 

[ShineTimeDetail]

I have a brand new Makita and its a super smooth machine but I don't use it much. My problem is I don't know how much clear I'm taking off and it worries me.

 

[alko]

What do you primarily use?

 

[ShineTimeDetail]

Now I use the 3401

 

[alko]

Oh ok cool. You plan on getting paint guage?

 

[ShineTimeDetail]

Yes but still doesn't guarantee anything...I don't know what the depth was from the factory. It just tells me where to be cautious at.

 

[alko]

I can dig it.

 

[604_Snooze]

how long did it take you to use the PE14 and white pad on the 300c, compare to PC with meg's MF pads. I thought the MF pads will polish faster than the foam pads.

 

[richy]

Alex, congrats man! I'll tell you the truth that others deny: There is no beating a rotary. It corrects faster (the fastest with wool and leaves the surface cooler). Wait till you jewel with it!! There is a good reason I use mine every opportunity I get!

 

[Kaban]

I have a brand new Makita and its a super smooth machine but I don't use it much. My problem is I don't know how much clear I'm taking off and it worries me.

That worries you? After a pass, inspect the panel to see how much of the defect was removed. If it wasn't removed completely do another pass. Then check again. It's the same procedure as with a DA. It's so silly that people make rotaries sound like some dragon that will come and eat your paint.

 

[TS656577]

Come on Alex, you're better than this. Step up your game and post some pics.

 

[art72]

Uggghhh...was planning on buying the PC + Meg's Kit to start off with (*newbie here)...so I gotta ask; is the Flex beginner friendly?

Sounds like the Flex polisher 'dwarfs' the PC in both power & performance... any drawbacks other than needing to be mechanically inclined to use this beast?

Also would love to see some pics.

 

[TS656577]

Apart from the vast difference in price, the Flex is more powerful and essentially removes defects much quicker (I'm comparing the DA versions, whereas Alex is using the rotary. Rotary and DA's are two different beasts. Rotary's can burn paint easily whereas DA's are MUCH more user friendly). I have the PC and with the new Meguair's MF kit, it cuts down the defect removal time greatly.

 

[art72]

Apart from the vast difference in price, the Flex is more powerful and essentially removes defects much quicker (I'm comparing the DA versions, whereas Alex is using the rotary. Rotary and DA's are two different beasts. Rotary's can burn paint easily whereas DA's are MUCH more user friendly). I have the PC and with the new Meguair's MF kit, it cuts down the defect removal time greatly.

Thanks. I think I'll stick with the PC and work into buying the rotary as money/experience permit.

Being a tool nut I'll likely get the Flex and a Cyclo units in the future, as both look like awesome machines.

:buffing:

 

[TS656577]

Thanks. I think I'll stick with the PC and work into buying the rotary as money/experience permit.

Being a tool nut I'll likely get the Flex and a Cyclo units in the future, as both look like awesome machines.

:buffing:

I learned on a rotary, so switching to a DA was kind of nice since I didn't have to be concerned with burnt edges or burning the paint. However, I love using the rotary because it corrects much faster.

 

[Vegas Transplant]

:bump: