After #105/#205 combo

S

Stride

New member
Joined
Jul 16, 2011
Messages
44
Reaction score
0
What should I use after using Meguiar's #105/#205 combo?
my steps are
1. 105 - orange pad
2. 205- grey or white pad
3.???? - do I need a glaze? such as Meguiars Mirror Glaze #3 Pro Machine Glaze or Meguiars Mirror Glaze #5 New Car Glaze

4. Ultima Paint Guard Plus sealant
5. Pinnacle Liquid Souveran Wax- blue or red pad
trans_1x1.gif
 
No, you don't need a glaze, unless you want to use one of the CG's or Poorboy's...but wait--if you use 205 or one of those oily glazes you mention, you'll need to do some sort of cleaning step before you use the UPGP...which of course will remove the glaze.

I'd either skip the glaze entirely and do some sort of paint cleaning or use the Ultima prep product. OR--use something like this: Chemical Guys EZ-Creme Glaze w/Acrylic Shine II 16 oz. although I'm not a CG guy so I'm not sure if the UPGP will bond to that (IIRC it should clean up the 205 oils).
 
Mike I hear people say po85rd is rotary dependent what is our thoughts on using it with a GG DA is it jut a waste of time?
 
I jewel the paint with Menzerna PO85rd using a Flex XC 3401, and I have had great success with the DA polisher and a tangerine jeweling pad.
 
What kind of tangerine jeweling pad because the LC hydro tech tangerine is a light cutting pad.
 
I've used a traditional DA, a Flex 3401 DA, and a rotary to jewel with using 85rd (using either a crimson HT, or black pad w/da, and a blue pad w/ rotary). IMO the rotary produces better results. But you can get good results with a DA. With any polisher, be sure to work the polish (a lot) till it is fully broken down. As soon as the polish starts to go clear, reduce the pressure. Continue working it. Once the polish has gone clear reduce the pressure significantly. Make a few final slow passes over the clear polish to bring out the gloss. At this point there is only VERY light polishing action left in the polish it is ultra fine, but it is still refining the surface ever so microscopically. Here is where I believe the extreme gloss comes from. Then I typically make a couple more slow passes with little pressure, to almost no pressure (when using a da you still need to apply some pressure, because of the erratic movement of the spindle). When using a PCxp I run it at full throttle the entire time. When using the 3401 I typically start out at around 5, and turn it down to 4 for the last few passes.

Using a rotary I typically break the polish down in 3 steps:

Stage 1 (1200-1400 rpms) - Firm pressure

Stage 2 (1000-1200 rpms)- Less pressure

Stage 3 (800-1000 rpms) - VERY Light pressure
 
Last edited:
DARK HORSE said:
I've used a traditional DA, a Flex 3401 DA, and a rotary to jewel with using 85rd (using either a crimson HT, or black pad w/da, and a blue pad w/ rotary). IMO the rotary produces better results.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info
 
Mike, I know u recommend staying with one brand. I don't think my car needs #105. What would be a good medium cut polish if I didn't want to use the #105 or only on some of the car?
 
Megs D300 or Megs Ultimate Compound would be the intermediate between M105 and M205.

But get some Menzerna SF4500. For a final polish before your LSP, it's hard to beat.
 
ryanmcg1 said:
Mike I hear people say po85rd is rotary dependent what is our thoughts on using it with a GG DA is it jut a waste of time?
Click to expand...

I get great results with it as a "finishing polish" with any tool. If the paint is polishable to start with SF 4500 works great.


Stride said:
Mike, I know u recommend staying with one brand. I don't think my car needs #105. What would be a good medium cut polish if I didn't want to use the #105 or only on some of the car?
Click to expand...

I'm not sure I'm on record recommending to "not" mix brands when polishing paint but I am on record stating that when you stay within one "brand" there's a synergistic chemical compatibility between products.

There might not be any issues to freestyle, that is to use brand A followed by brand B followed by brand C and then topped with brand D because there's no way of really knowing. My point is always the odds are in your favor for success when using products in succession if they're all made by the same chemist. At least it makes common sense.

As for a good medium cut polish from Meguiar's? Try M86 Solo Cut & Polish Cream

I've used the 80's series for decades and taught hundreds of classes with them but with DA Polishers they can tend to leave micro-marring if you strip the paint to inspect. Not on all paints but the SMAT product do seem to be more consistent in high quality results.

Another option would be to get some Optimum Polish II


Sorry for the late reply, I'm setting up the studio for the classes this weekend at Detail Fest.


:)
 
That 205 you listed in your title would be a good medium polish if you wanted to stay with one brand. Menzerna Power Finish is another good medium polish as an alternative.:buffing:
Stride said:
Mike, I know u recommend staying with one brand. I don't think my car needs #105. What would be a good medium cut polish if I didn't want to use the #105 or only on some of the car?
Click to expand...
 
Would wolfgang total swirl remover 3.0 and finishing glaze be a better combo then the meguairs? Or use wolfgang swirl remover followed by meguiars #205?

I dont want a lot of cut like #105 but more cut then optimum polish II
 
Stride said:
Would wolfgang total swirl remover 3.0 and finishing glaze be a better combo then the meguairs?
Click to expand...


When you get to the level of quality for the product you're discussion it's not that one system is necessarily "better" as a skilled detailer can do wonders with any of these.

That said, the Wolfgang Twins would be a great approach, here's few success stories to show you...

How To Remove Horrible Rotary Buffer Swirl Marks out of a 350Z using the Wolfgang Twins

Proof You Can Do It! - Joe The Detailer - Black Porsche Turned into Black Pearl!

Wolfgang Twins

Lessons I learned from a Black 2009 BMW 550i

1957 Chevrolet Belair Extreme Makeover - Flex 3401 & Wolfgang Smackdown!


:xyxthumbs:
 
Last question could I move from wolfgang total swirl remover 3.0 straight to SF 4500? or Would it just be better to use the Wolfgang twins?
 
Sorry for the thead jack, but it should be better than starting a new one. Do you guys have any tricks on getting M105 removed easily, or am I just working the compound too long? It seems like even after i get the pad primed, it still takes a good bit of work to remove the compound?

This is on an orange LC pad.
 
dannythekid said:
Sorry for the thread jack, but it should be better than starting a new one.
Click to expand...

Actually, you will get more and better replies to start a dedicated thread with a "subject" that screams out what you're wanting information about. Like,

Do you guys have any tricks on getting M105 removed easily



dannythekid said:
Do you guys have any tricks on getting M105 removed easily, or am I just working the compound too long?
Click to expand...


Wet Buffing Technique


Use tips and techniques for working in direct sun shared here,

Tips for working in warm/hot weather or direct sunlight


Both of the above are in my article list.



:)
 
dannythekid said:
Sorry for the thead jack, but it should be better than starting a new one. Do you guys have any tricks on getting M105 removed easily, or am I just working the compound too long? It seems like even after i get the pad primed, it still takes a good bit of work to remove the compound?

This is on an orange LC pad.
Click to expand...

I just used M105/orange LC on a severly trashed Crown Vic. You can try using a a few spritzs of water on the paint while using the DA to get longer working time. For removal I use a spritz of Megs Last Touch diluted 1to1.

BTW I find D300 and a MF cutting disc much easier to use and work with than M105 and a LC Orange.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top