Thinking about Opti Coat or another coating...help decide!

poweraid said:
I think u wasted u time and money by layering
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I may or may not have but I feel better about my application by layering. I used a total of 8 CCs with both layers while I read some people use around 6-7 just for one layer.

Besides it is only my self and I just sold the remaining portion so he can coat his new BBS wheels. If it lasts only 2 years, it was well worth $30 bucks, but if it lasts the life of the ownership of the car, then the two layers and OC 2.0 is def. worth it.
 
first I'm no opticoat expert . my opinion is based on my research from all the treads goin on opticoat . what I have found is if layering to do within 5 mins . it can take up to 30 days to cure and cross link . we all know u need a very clean surface for this to bond to , which basically why u need to do the prep work to begin with .
 
poweraid said:
first I'm no opticoat expert . my opinion is based on my research from all the treads goin on opticoat . what I have found is if layering to do within 5 mins . it can take up to 30 days to cure and cross link . we all know u need a very clean surface for this to bond to , which basically why u need to do the prep work to begin with .
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If you layer within 5 min, it is going to act like 1 thick coat, instead of 2 thinner coats.
 
one thick coat may equal 2 thin coats ? but opticoat will not bond to itself which is why I assume to if layer to do within 5 mins . not wait days .
 
poweraid said:
one thick coat may equal 2 thin coats ? but opticoat will not bond to itself which is why I assume to if layer to do within 5 mins . not wait days .
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The old OC won't bond to it self, but I read on here that OC 2.0 will.
 
i dont think there is an old version .what's the old opticoat 2.0 ? r u referring to opti guard ?
 
Opti-Guard, the pro version is great. I wouldn't hesitate to recommend it.
 
cfarley27 said:
I may or may not have but I feel better about my application by layering. I used a total of 8 CCs with both layers while I read some people use around 6-7 just for one layer.

Besides it is only my self and I just sold the remaining portion so he can coat his new BBS wheels. If it lasts only 2 years, it was well worth $30 bucks, but if it lasts the life of the ownership of the car, then the two layers and OC 2.0 is def. worth it.
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Did you do the headlights bumpers plastics etc? Or did you tape them off??
 
Jomax said:
Did you do the headlights bumpers plastics etc? Or did you tape them off??
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I did my headlights but not my plastics since they were pretty faded, I didn't want to protect faded trim.

I also did not tape off anything. If I got a little bit on the trim I just quickly wiped it away with a MF.
 
poweraid said:
I think u wasted u time and money by layering
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And taking the time to post that?

I have tried layering opti-coat at a couple minutes and at 12 hours. For layering in a couple minutes I will normally do a panel, wipe for high spots, do another panel, wipe for high spots, go back to first panel apply opti-coat again, wipe for high spots....

When trying to do it 12 hours later, it did not work well for me and was very sticky, Chris recommended waiting until the coating is hard enough to allow the pad/opti-coat to spread smoothly if you do not want to apply another coat before it starts getting tacky (5 minutes).

Waste of time? For looks maybe? For durability, I would think not. Considering the fact that you can wear through opti-coat just like your clear coat (permanent from the standpoint you cannot wash it off or strip it off with normal chemicals not because it will be there forever) why not increase thickness?

I would say on the motorcycles that I applied two coats too, it would have been a complete waste of time and money not to apply a second coat. I know the tanks will get swirls and rubbed on just from riding, why not have thicker layer of opti-coat on it?
 
embolism said:
Since Dr. G is always improving his products, what are the odds that OC will be slicker in future iterations?

I know the current version sheds dirt like nobody's business but increased slickness has got to play a role too non?
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If you want slickness on top of OC or OG, apply Permanon Platinum or Car Pro ReLoad the day after applying OC. Looks and feels like glass afterwards. OC is very close to clearcoat, i.e., urethane substrate, so it feels like clearcoat.
 
crxman2010 said:
That was also my first thought.


Far as being happy with having put OC on my brand new car, no question about it. Granted it is not a dripping wet look, but the car looks great. Thus far, at about 6 months it seems to be holding up great, even in the area I had to polish out a scratch from a icy snow bank...

The only thing I have noticed thus far, is I have little brown spots in some areas (vertical panels), not sure what it is yet, clay removes it slowly (pinnacle poly) but polish definitely takes it off the surface whereas washing doesn't. (seems to big to be rust from metal particles but the right color, I have iron x on the way to try on it, suppose it got splattered with something). On the wheels, which I also did, nothing has stuck. Tar, brake dust, or dirt, all just wipes off with car wash soap and a sponge.
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Brown dots sound like Artillery Fungus. I have a strong alkaline clearcoat safe wheel cleaner. It is Brown Royal. Let it dwell a bit and wipe off with elbow grease.
 
poweraid said:
I have seen that along with all the posts in all the threads. can be layer ? can't be layered ? will not bond to itself . layer in 5 mins , in a day , in 30 days . idk . I don't mind being wrong if I am . helps us all out . some expert info would be appreciated though .
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Current versions of OC & OG can definately be layered. We did my brothers black F150 and had a little OG left over OG on the hood for a second layer. Looked great!
 
Old Tiger said:
Current versions of OC & OG can definately be layered. We did my brothers black F150 and had a little OG left over OG on the hood for a second layer. Looked great!
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within what time frame can it be layered ?
 
crxman2010 said:
And taking the time to post that?

I have tried layering opti-coat at a couple minutes and at 12 hours. For layering in a couple minutes I will normally do a panel, wipe for high spots, do another panel, wipe for high spots, go back to first panel apply opti-coat again, wipe for high spots....

When trying to do it 12 hours later, it did not work well for me and was very sticky, Chris recommended waiting until the coating is hard enough to allow the pad/opti-coat to spread smoothly if you do not want to apply another coat before it starts getting tacky (5 minutes).

Waste of time? For looks maybe? For durability, I would think not. Considering the fact that you can wear through opti-coat just like your clear coat (permanent from the standpoint you cannot wash it off or strip it off with normal chemicals not because it will be there forever) why not increase thickness?

I would say on the motorcycles that I applied two coats too, it would have been a complete waste of time and money not to apply a second coat. I know the tanks will get swirls and rubbed on just from riding, why not have thicker layer of opti-coat on it?
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Well said! I 100% agree!
 
BTLew81 said:
last question, I promise... :) Using Polish II to polish/strip existing LSP (Meg's 20), an ONR wash would be sufficient to prep the surface? Or would you suggest using Eraser or a dawn washing instead? Thanks, Chris. This is the type of service that sells product!
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Following Polish II ONR will be sufficient. Dawn wash will be a little more thorough. Nothing wrong with Eraser either.

Houckster said:
I'd like to chime in with a question for Chris.

Specifically, I have picked up from this forum that even the sealants won't stop things like water etching, bug splats and bird bombs from attacking the paint. Since I don't mind applying sealants etc, the real attraction of Opti Coat 2 to me is whether the paint will be absolutely protected against these problems.
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Nothing is absolute, but Opti Coat is not only beyond current sealants, waxes, and nano sealants in this regard, but even out performs clear coat itself! Bird bombs and water spots may still stain on the surface, but we hear wonderfull reports often about how the owner was able to remove them with Poli Seal by hand and very little effort and how there was no etching...only the surface stain that was easily removed.

poweraid said:
chris, can u help with the layering questions ?
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Yep!

poweraid said:
I have seen that along with all the posts in all the threads. can be layer ? can't be layered ? will not bond to itself . layer in 5 mins , in a day , in 30 days . idk . I don't mind being wrong if I am . helps us all out . some expert info would be appreciated though .
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Opti Guard/Coat goes through 3 processes. 1) the initial carrier flashing, 2) cross-linking, 3)resin dehydration/curing/hardening.

Carrier flashing happens within a couple of minutes. After application, the panel will flash to clear. When 90% has flashed clear, you should lightly buff any unclear spots of overapplication. After this first process you can add a second layer that will be like a thicker second coat.

Cross linking will occur within 12 +/- hours of application. After this second process, you can add a second layer that will be like an actual second application of the product.

Hardening occurs when the carrier solvent has been exposed to heat long enough to fully dehydrate from the emulsified resin. At this point (aroung 30 days), Opti Guard/Coat may no longer bond to itself without polishing first. You will see the product smear instead of flash clear and you can actually wipe it off the surface (not easily) as it drys. After this 3rd process, you can still layer but you will need to perform a light polish (Polish II or Finish on a finishing pad) to microscopically "scuff" the coating which will allow another layer to bond.

Let me know if you need further explainations and I will try to address them.
 
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