What am I doing wrong?

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ynkssws6

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I have the griots polish system (pads polishes orbital etc) and the car I was working on is an 01 ws6 trans am. I hear that gm uses a relatively hard clear coat.

I started with polish #3 and it didn't do much at all.

Went to #2 and it did a little but not much.

Then tried #1 and it started to knock down imperfections but there were still some scratches that I didn't think were too deep but didnt really get them out completely. It also left what looked like tiny "c"s in the paint. Went to two, three, and four as instructed by griots. Then best of show wax.

So I can still see some swirls and those little c's in the paint and with what looks like tiny pin size dots in the paint. So what am doing wrong? After all that work I was hoping for better results.

Thank you in advance for all the help!
 
Those C's are pig tails. Any pictures?
 
I use the G's system all the time, and they work fine but am not running a paint correction shop, and not working with an older car. Their system is not an aggressive system, for that reason. It's not going to cut as you might need. Make sure also your surface was totally clean, clayed and pads totally clean. You used it correctly, but you may need to move to something like Pinnacle Swirl Remover or in need of some more serious paint cutting and corrections. Best to talk to someone who is PRO level. And not knowing the condition of the paint to begin with, most polishes really are not going to remove scratches unless very minute. Good luck..and once you get the surface corrected, the GG polishes will be fine as well as wax. :xyxthumbs:
 
The paint was properly cleaned with griots clay and speed shine. The pads were all brand new as well. The paint was in decent shape it's a garage kept weekend car so it's like it's too beat up. The scratches I mentioned earlier are definitely not beyond the clear. 37k babied miles.

I was thinking maybe m105?

That being said if I look at the chart on autogeek comparing polishes and their cut could I use m105 and then to like a griots #3?

Thanks again for all the help.
 
That probably would get it, yes. Try a small area and do a comparison. Someone else will know a bit more about the GM hardness of paint issues on this one. And #3 to end up with or even the 4 will probably put you right on target. Again, work a small area and see how it progresses.
 
Maybe even d300 if you want less dust and easier finish.

I know some guys cross-polish using 2 dots m105 with 2 dots d300
 
I have all the griots polishes too but never found them to work anywhere near as well as Duragloss 501 and Meg's ultimate compound, using various pads. Also, I've got D151 to work very well compared to griots. Using GG6...
 
So since I have a couple extra brand new orange griots pads can I just get either m105 or ultimate compound and then go to griots #3? The one thing that was annoying about the griots system was going up a stage in polish 4 different times. That's a ton of work.

Would you recommend one meguiars compound over another?
 
I don't see on the autogeek chart how much cut the ultimate compound has.

Or if I was m105 could I go straight to griots #4?

Thanks for the help guys
 
ynkssws6 said:
I don't see on the autogeek chart how much cut the ultimate compound has.

Or if I was m105 could I go straight to griots #4?

Thanks for the help guys
Click to expand...

Ultimate Compound is similar to M105 and M105 is rated at being able to remove #1200 grit sanding marks using a wool pad on a rotary buffer in a fresh paint environment. (fresh paint tends to be softer than factory paint).


If you work the M105 well enough you should be able to go to a fine or ultra fine polish afterwards.


:)
 
ynkssws6 said:
It also left what looked like tiny "c"s in the paint.
Click to expand...


From my article here,

Tracers Tracers - RIDS - Pigtails - Cobweb Swirls - Rotary Buffer Swirls - Holograms - Water Spots - Bird Drooping Etchings - Micro-Marring


Pigtails - Photo courtesy of Mister B

pigtails.jpg




Pigtails are normally instilled during machine sanding, either dry or wet.


After buffing out the paint, any deeper scratches that remain are called RIDS.

RIDS - The Definition of RIDS and the story behind the term...


You might be better off learning to leave with the deeper scratches, especially if this is a daily driver not a show car. See my comments on page 2 of the below thread,


Beginning Clearcoat Failure


:)
 
Awesome!

This forum is so informative and helpful. I really appreciate it guys.
 
Yeah it looks like I have pig tails after I used the #1 polish.

The paint is not shot by any means, and it's not anywhere near failure. It's not a daily but I do take care of it as much as I can, the same goes for my other cars too! The scratches I mentioned earlier are basically from bad toweling (I didn't know any better) and inferior products.

Another question...if I properly clean a pad, can I use a different compound or polish another time? Griots says to mark each pad to use it the corresponding polish and use them together going forward. I only ordered 3, 3" pads from autogeek so I'm just curious. Thanks again.
 
Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Ultimate Compound is similar to M105 and M105 is rated at being able to remove #1200 grit sanding marks using a wool pad on a rotary buffer in a fresh paint environment. (fresh paint tends to be softer than factory paint).


If you work the M105 well enough you should be able to go to a fine or ultra fine polish afterwards.


:)
Click to expand...

So you're saying ultimate compound can be substituted for m105? That would be great.

Sorry for so many posts.
 
TTT was going to try ultimate compound this weekend so I just wanted to get some final answers. thanks guys
 
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