Black BMW!!!! What should watch out for?

Jpena315

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Hi all I've been reading and studying auto geek forums non stop for the last few months and I can say I look forward to waking up and learning more and more from posts. I've just purchased a new 2011 BMW 328 I xdrive it happens to be sapphire black metallic color. What should I know bout this paint? Like in lots of your posts people consider certain paint as "soft" and when u should or shouldn't use certain products. Please help I don't wanta damage brand new car.
The does have slight marks on in the clear coat when really really inspected. Let me explain what products I've already purchased and please let me know if something is to harsh or just shouldn't be used on my vehicle
Wolfgang sealant 3.0
Wolfgang total swirl
Menzerna Super finish nano
Wolfgang clay
Wolfgang shampoo
Porter cable da
LCD hydro pads in crimson and tangerine 5in
Few micro fibers
 
Wolfgang polish enhancer
Sonax full effect
Sonax tire gloss gel
Cg full leather cond
 
Your products are solid. I'm pretty sure when detailers refer to soft BMW paint, they mean Jet Black, not Sapphire Black Metallic. In fact, I think I've read sapphire black metallic paint is hard. In any case, I would probably start with WG polish enhancer w/ crimson and move up to Menz super finish w/ tangerine if the first combo doesn't get you enough cut.
 
Ok so start by using polish enhancer on a crimson pad BEFORE I would use the menzera or the total,swirl remover. By the way this would be my first time using a da polisher if that,matters. Ive waxed plenty by hand so not completely new to the game
 
I was also thinking bout picking up cg blacklight which I hear nothing but great things
 
... start by using polish enhancer on a crimson pad BEFORE I would use the menzera or the total,swirl remover...

^^^ Yes. Have you read Mike Philips' detailing articles? Follow his technique and you'll achieve good results.
 
My moms BMW is Sapphire Black Metallic. It is hard indeed. Even D300 with mf cutting disc doesn't have enough cutting power. I needed m105 and mf cutting disc for it. In the other way, it can be easily scratch by microfiber cloth if you rub too hard over it. So becareful.
 
people consider certain paint as "soft" and when u should or shouldn't use certain products.
Wolfgang sealant 3.0
Wolfgang total swirl
Menzerna Super finish nano
Wolfgang clay
Wolfgang shampoo
Porter cable da
LCD hydro pads in crimson and tangerine 5in
Few micro fibers

It's pretty hard to mess up with a DA really.

I own a BMW Alpina B7 metallic black with the hardest clear coat ever (well, not as annoying as Ceramiclear) and the only combo that actually works is the following:

0. First Iron-X and clay the car.
1. Meguiars #105 on a Orange pad, Rotary, 2 passes, 3 pea size dots of product. (Compound only if necessary, when i first got the car it had some dealer swirls, so i had to pull out the big wool pad, just that once)
2. Meguiars #205 on a White Pad, Rotary, 2 passes with pressure and 2 passes with little to no pressure.
3. Menzerna SF4500 on a Black/Gray pad, PC7424xp DA. (Two or three times a year, this is parts of my regular detail)

As for protection (the same under the hood):
4. Meguiars Sealant #21
5. Meguiars Wax #26

All done. I've done several Bimmers and Audis with success, this combo hasn't failed me yet.. Ok, sometimes I have to mix and match the pads to get it done, but that's part of the game.


About the Wolfgang stuff you have: Is it SMAT or DAT?
I've found that DAT stuff doesn't work very well on BMWs, it takes too long and several passes (hard clear coat) and it leaves some marring behind, requiring extra work on the polish step.
 
Just to kind of go along wukin, I have 2 Jet black BMW's and d300 on mf cutting disc is more than enough grunt to take care of imperfections in the surface.
 
My moms BMW is Sapphire Black Metallic. It is hard indeed. Even D300 with mf cutting disc doesn't have enough cutting power. I needed m105 and mf cutting disc for it. In the other way, it can be easily scratch by microfiber cloth if you rub too hard over it. So becareful.
Yes I can day the first time I wipped it down with detailing spray and I put a mark in my fender. Not bad at all just a mark. I honestly can't see any swirl marks at all just doesn't seem like theres a drop of wax on it.
 
So the WG polish enhancer will remove, clean and slightly polish the paint before I use WG sealant 3.0?
 
Scratches do not come out no matter what on Jet black.

I can get a perfect swirl free finish. Multiple steps of Mezerna

However no matter what I do the real scratches do not come out.

I can sit on a yellow pad with Mezerna Compound for quite a while and the scratches just laugh at me... And on Jet black, all you need do is look at the car and it scratches... aggh for a hard finish....
 
So the WG polish enhancer will remove, clean and slightly polish the paint before I use WG sealant 3.0?

Maybe. It may not be aggressive enough to remove deeper swirls, but the rule of thumb is you always start with the least aggressive method first. You also have to, and I mean have to start with a test spot first. Imagine doing the entire car with the above combination and realizing it wasn't good enough to satisfy your expectations. That would be a total downer.
 
Confused on the least aggressive method first.
If I did that, I would start with the PO85D which is a finishing polish. Should i really start with that or use the least aggressive non finishing polish first?
 
I have a BMW in the same color (see avatar) and the Wolfgang Twins worked great for me - and best of all are very user friendly. I was able to remove swirls and get a mirror finish with Wolfgang TSR. My 08 M Roadster in BSM isn't "super hard"; but medium hardness. I believe these products are DAT.
 
****Don't believe the hype these are some type of super crazy hard paints to work on or they scratch so easy. If you are using a PC, you should plan on multiple days on doing a correction. You need to take your time and work clean, slowly, and methodically. It's not hard; just time consuming. You need to take your time and work on a small area (20" x 20"). You should work indoors. You should have some type of good lighting. I bought my 08 M Roadster with no swirls, 1.5 years later, it had on very light swirling on the trunk, none on the rest of the car. After corrected, you need to do a 2 bucket wash method, and with good technique the car will not swirl or scratch easily. It just takes time, patience, good technique, and the right products. As for least aggressive method first, he means on your test spot. You dont want to do the whole car with the least aggresive method, only to find it was a waste of time. Try least aggressive on the test spot and inspect your results. I not satisfied there, try more aggressive polish or pads.
 
I have a BMW in the same color (see avatar) and the Wolfgang Twins worked great for me - and best of all are very user friendly. I was able to remove swirls and get a mirror finish with Wolfgang TSR. My 08 M Roadster in BSM isn't "super hard"; but medium hardness. I believe these products are DAT.


Good advice, thanks
 
Do u think a glaze also would help the shine of metallic black car after polish enhancer and before wg sealant
 
Do u think a glaze also would help the shine of metallic black car after polish enhancer and before wg sealant

Most people would say if your doing a paint correction; you shouldnt "need" a glaze. That being said, if your working by hand (I think most people would use Wolgang Polish Enhancer by hand as a "paint cleaner", but it could be used by machine) glazes can help "amp up" your finish or temporarily hide minor imperfections. If you have the time, budget, and desire - no reason not to use a glaze, especially if working by hand. But again, keep in mind, glazes are like make-up; they are a temporary fix.
IMHO, if your into detailing and own a black car, you really need to learn how to work by machine for polishing / correction. I cant imagine spending hours "detailing" a black car, only to look at shiny swirls when your done.
 
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