Just got my Flex PE14...

BLKZ06 said:
The first time you catch an edge and burn it, sling a panel, or have the polisher rip out of your hand you'll wish you'd never locked it...

... I was always told to keep the trigger fluid, so that the polisher can be backed down near creases, curves, edges, etc...
Click to expand...

^^^ Interesting point. I'm going to try it on the next car I polish.
 
Nothing is black or white only, everyone has a method that works.
 
It's called a flexible backing plate. You said you rarely buff a perfectly flat surface.... well you're not alone.

Get yourself a flexible backing plate and you will be shocked at what that will do for you in terms of reducing fatigue and how it will affect your technique as well.

Not trying to call you out or doubt you, I could care less, but please do us a favor and do not tell me or anyone else that you "hope" we are not rotary buffing if we are not using the same technique you are. Go back to the thread and tell me who started this nonsense.
 
Kaban said:
It's called a flexible backing plate. You said you rarely buff a perfectly flat surface.... well you're not alone.

Get yourself a flexible backing plate and you will be shocked at what that will do for you in terms of reducing fatigue and how it will affect your technique as well.

Not trying to call you out or doubt you, I could care less, but please do us a favor and do not tell me or anyone else that you "hope" we are not rotary buffing if we are not using the same technique you are. Go back to the thread and tell me who started this nonsense.
Click to expand...

Its my thread- I started it. I never said anything about using my "method" of rotary buffing. I pointed out I hoped you were'nt rotary buffing with the trigger locked. And i stand by that. That being said, I apologize if you feel I was rude to you.

I have 5 flexible backing plates. And about 40 foam pads...and approx. 500.00 worth of Menzerna polishes alone. I'm pretty serious about my stuff.

And please do all of us a favor- those who have been doing this a LONG time, along with newbies just starting out- and don't insinuate that locking the trigger on a rotary is perfectly OK to do. If you feel that strongly about it- start your own thread and provide pics on your method. Theres no denying the damage a rotary can do in untrained, or undertrained hands. Thats not even debatable. I have no problem backing up my statements on locking a trigger.


Heres a preview of my upcoming pictorial. The only tape you see is covering my emblem, leading duct edge (which I STILL worried about even slowing down the buffer- sticks out really far) and brake intake vent. Thats my 1st correction pass with my Flex rotary and Menz PO91. Again..this is my personal 2011 Z06 with Z07 package...I paid 100K for it. I trust my method.

I still have PO106 to go, and manybe PO85RD on a GG depending on how everything looks in the sun.


Basic before:

dgoyf7.jpg




After:


2n7nmkk.jpg
 
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Whatever floats your boat man... btw that "after" pic is with the halogens not directly pointing to the paint like they are in the first pic. Not trying to be an ass, just sayin.
 
Kaban said:
Whatever floats your boat man... btw that "after" pic is with the halogens not directly pointing to the paint like they are in the first pic. Not trying to be an ass, just sayin.
Click to expand...


No-the angle of the lights never changed..it was the difference in me standing up vs being slightly crouched in the "before" pic.

Regardless...the difference in the panels is clearly visible even with the different angle.

:xyxthumbs:
 
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