Clay & Wax

craz0boy

craz0boy

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My first post, started my own mobile detailing biz this year. Guess you can say kinda new to detailing but I got my basics down. I'm adding clay bar & wax to my detail "menu". just wanted to see hear yalls methods, do's and dont's, and tips for the whole clar bar process. Thanks
 
Welcome to the forum and good luck on your business!
I'd polish after claying,then a paint prep before wax. Or just use an AIO after claying but protection doesn't last as long
 
Ryan R said:
Welcome to the forum and good luck on your business!
I'd polish after claying,then a paint prep before wax. Or just use an AIO after claying but protection doesn't last as long
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Thanks man, and what would be a example of a paint prep I should use?
 
craz0boy said:
Thanks man, and what would be a example of a paint prep I should use?
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After claying you will want to use, at the bare minimum, some sort of paint cleaner to prep the paint for your wax application. This will ensure the previous layer of wax is completely removed and will allow your freshly applied coat of wax to fully bond with the paint for longer lasting protection. The claying process will remove much of the previous layer of wax but it is best practice to polish or clean the paint prior to applying new wax again. If you use an all-in-one "cleaner wax" you should be covered.
 
Nicholas@Autowerx said:
After claying you will want to use, at the bare minimum, some sort of paint cleaner to prep the paint for your wax application. This will ensure the previous layer of wax is completely removed and will allow your freshly applied coat of wax to fully bond with the paint for longer lasting protection. The claying process will remove much of the previous layer of wax but it is best practice to polish or clean the paint prior to applying new wax again. If you use an all-in-one "cleaner wax" you should be covered.
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AGREED!

I really like dodo juice prime light. Top that with some wax and be amazed.
 
Nicholas@Autowerx said:
After claying you will want to use, at the bare minimum, some sort of paint cleaner to prep the paint for your wax application. This will ensure the previous layer of wax is completely removed and will allow your freshly applied coat of wax to fully bond with the paint for longer lasting protection. The claying process will remove much of the previous layer of wax but it is best practice to polish or clean the paint prior to applying new wax again. If you use an all-in-one "cleaner wax" you should be covered.
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With a Dawn (or similar) wash and a clay bar, I can't imagine there being much, if any, remaining wax on the paint. With a mild clay bar there really shouldn't be any marring, so in my opinion, you're ready for your LSP. Requiring an additional step of a paint cleaner, especially for a "wash and wax" detailer puts you at what I would think is essentially a $150 - $200 wax job. I know I sure as heck wouldn't wash + clay + polish or paint cleaner + wax for much under that.
 
Y2KSVT said:
With a Dawn (or similar) wash and a clay bar, I can't imagine there being much, if any, remaining wax on the paint. With a mild clay bar there really shouldn't be any marring, so in my opinion, you're ready for your LSP. Requiring an additional step of a paint cleaner, especially for a "wash and wax" detailer puts you at what I would think is essentially a $150 - $200 wax job. I know I sure as heck wouldn't wash + clay + polish or paint cleaner + wax for much under that.
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I agree. That's why I was sort of hinting at some sort of AIO product for after claying. Or, I suppose if the paint is already in great shape it would be ready for your LSP of choice.
 
craz0boy said:
My first post, started my own mobile detailing biz this year. Guess you can say kinda new to detailing but I got my basics down. I'm adding clay bar & wax to my detail "menu". just wanted to see hear yalls methods, do's and dont's, and tips for the whole clar bar process. Thanks
Click to expand...

:welcome: To Autogeek Online! :props:

This is "the" place to learn some of the finest ways to detail your car. There is a wealth of knowledge here for the beginner to the most advanced. A simple question is all that's needed to initiate helpful responses from members here and also Autogeek Professional Staff.

Everyone starts off as a beginner but with some reading, questions, and trial, error, and practice you'll be amazed how much you'll be able to do. After reading and understanding some of the basics, the more hands on your are the quicker you'll build your knowledge and gain experience.

This link contains articles written by Mike Phillips and has allot of great reading within.

Articles by Mike Phillips

Basic steps in order are:

  • Wash
  • Clay
  • Paint Correction & Polish
  • Seal
  • Wax
Great all-in-one cleaners!

I use these with a green and white foam pads.....:props:

Some product recommendations I like to use.

Wash - Duragloss #901
Clay - Mothers
Compound - PG 1000 – PowerGloss Compound (POS34A)
Polish - PF 2500 – Power Finish Polish (PO203)
Finishing Polish - SF 4000 – Super Finish Polish (PO106FA)
Sealant - Ultima Paint Guard Plus
Wax - Collinite 845
Spray Wax -Optimum Spray Car Wax
Tire Cleaner - Meguiar's Super Degreaser
Tire Treatment - CarPro PERL
Trim - Ultima Tire and Trim Guard
Wheel Cleaner - Meguiar's Wheel Brightener
Wheel Protectant -Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0
Glass Cleaner - Meguiar's Glass Cleaner
Glass Treatment - Aquapel
All Purpose Cleaner - Optimum Power Clean
Interior Protectant - Meguiar’s M40
Chrome & Stainless Steel - BLACKFIRE Wet Diamond Metal Acrylic Sealant
 
Thanks for all the info so far guys. Big help and much appreciated
 
Y2KSVT said:
With a Dawn (or similar) wash and a clay bar, I can't imagine there being much, if any, remaining wax on the paint. With a mild clay bar there really shouldn't be any marring, so in my opinion, you're ready for your LSP. Requiring an additional step of a paint cleaner, especially for a "wash and wax" detailer puts you at what I would think is essentially a $150 - $200 wax job. I know I sure as heck wouldn't wash + clay + polish or paint cleaner + wax for much under that.
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You can if "you" want to but based on personal experience, stay away from using Dawn dish shop!!

If you want to thoroughly clean your vehicle, start with a good car shampoo and give it a bath. Then, take you choice of a liquid spray that will help the clay bar by lubricating it as you move it over the paint. Re-wash and then take a mixture of 50/50 IPA and go over the entire vehicle. You shouldn't have much if any wax left on the vehicle.
 
slidder said:
You can if "you" want to but based on personal experience, stay away from using Dawn dish shop!!

If you want to thoroughly clean your vehicle, start with a good car shampoo and give it a bath. Then, take you choice of a liquid spray that will help the clay bar by lubricating it as you move it over the paint. Re-wash and then take a mixture of 50/50 IPA and go over the entire vehicle. You shouldn't have much if any wax left on the vehicle.
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Would you mind going into detail on what your experience has been with Dawn dish soap? I've used it many many times with the intent to strip old wax and it's worked great with no ill effects. Dawn is an awesome cleaner and very gentle on paint, trim, glass, etc. I guess I see no real reason to use a top shelf soap if your intent is to remove wax, and then you'll be running all sorts of additional products and media over your paint directly after (clay bar, clay lube, polish or paint cleaner, wax, etc.). I personally believe you can achieve the same outcome with equal longevity out of your LSP with less products and time used, with a larger profit or lower end cost to the customer.
 
Paint preps are chemical paint cleaners like Pinnacle Paintwork Cleanser or P21S Paint cleaner, some AIO type products are also cleaners like DG 501 or Klasse AIO.

It really depends on what you are doing, if you are waxing use the Pinnacle or P21S, if sealing the other two IMO.

DG 501 has a sealant in it so if these type jobs are your standard 1 step every six month deals no corrections that is a very affordable choice, If Klasse I'd top with Klasse High Gloss Sealant as they like to play better together. There is a place of all the products depending on what you are doing.
 
Y2KSVT said:
Would you mind going into detail on what your experience has been with Dawn dish soap? I've used it many many times with the intent to strip old wax and it's worked great with no ill effects. Dawn is an awesome cleaner and very gentle on paint, trim, glass, etc. I guess I see no real reason to use a top shelf soap if your intent is to remove wax, and then you'll be running all sorts of additional products and media over your paint directly after (clay bar, clay lube, polish or paint cleaner, wax, etc.). I personally believe you can achieve the same outcome with equal longevity out of your LSP with less products and time used, with a larger profit or lower end cost to the customer.
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Only thing I know is continued use, as in every week, will dry out rubber and plastic. But if someone uses it weekly they have bigger issues to deal with than that.
I personally do not strip wash if claying and polishing or claying and cleaning. I never clay without either polishing or cleaning the paint.
 
Another question, I've been thinking about buying something to help me wax faster and more efficiently instead of using the by hand method. Just looking for something basic right now just to get started. Any suggestions?
 
craz0boy said:
Another question, I've been thinking about buying something to help me wax faster and more efficiently instead of using the by hand method. Just looking for something basic right now just to get started. Any suggestions?
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Definitely step up to a machine. If you've never used a machine before then the easiest tool to learn how to use and master is the PC style DA Polisher.

Porter Cable 7424XP
Meguiar's G110v2
Griot's Garage 6" ROP


Lots of pad options, chemical options and backing plate options. Once you get a little experience you can create a show car finish following just the basics as demonstrated last Thursday night here,


Video and Pictures - 1967 AC Cobra and 1949 Packard Show Car Makeovers!


CobraPackard002.jpg


:xyxthumbs:
 
Thanks mike. Just finished watching the video, great help and can't wait to get my hands on one those machines.
 
slidder said:
Use IPA. You can buy a bottle of it for around $2.00.
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IPA can make your paint swell. After reading http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ow-mix-ipa-inspecting-correction-results.html I stopped using it. There is really nothing wrong with using a Dawn wash before a major detail. I use it before major details to strip any wax or sealant even though I'm going to compound/polish. Once every 6 moths isn't going to damage your paint. It's not a weekly wash as it will dry out the paint if used regularly. For removing polish or compound residue before an LSP, something like Klean Strip Prep All is safer then IPA.
 
Here are some of my favorite products:


Optimum Opti-Bond Tire Gel for a lustre finish
Adams Polishes sVRT for a matte finish
Pinnacle Leather Conditioner
Ultima Interior Shampoo Gel
1Z Einszett Cockpit Premium Interior Plastic Cleaner or 303

Ultima Paint Guard Wash or Optimum Car Wash
Finish Kare 425 Extra Slick Final Body Shine or OID as a quick detailer and a drying agent.
ONR for waterless washes. Also tried a sample of the BF waterless wash and that was crazy good.
The gray cobra-530xl towel for the first pass and then followed by the Guzzler Combo Kit waffle towels to finish. As my drying agent, I spray the car down with FK425 before starting the drying process. Never ever spots and is a killer combination imo.
Yellow White Interior Wash ShMITT

Optimum Power Clean™ All Purpose Cleaner
Compounds & Polishes: M105, Ultimate Compound and M#205 - I use all three products because of how versatile they are.
LC hydrotech pads or the new LC hybrid pads
BLACKFIRE Crystal Seal Paint Sealant 4 oz., Finish Kare 1000 or DP Poly Sealant w/bonding agent. (tuff to beat the BF for ease of use) All three sealants are great but very different methods of application. Pick whichever based on how you like to work, because they are all high quality products.


Diamondite® Perfect Vision Glass Cleaner - little pricey but worth it.
Dodo Juice Born Slippy Clay Lubricant Concentrate. Also use ONR diluted for clay lube 2 oz/gallon
Wolfgang Elastic Poly Clay Bar 200 Grams
Iron X
 
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