XMT 360 AIO comments.

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rdfkentucky

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I bought some to try after reading about it. I recivied it today and wanted to try on a bad double scratch about 18" on my wife's Escape. I was thinking I would have to touch up the paint. So with nothing to loose I tried it on the scratch using a MF towel and hand rubbing, I can't believe the results. With hand rubbing a space about 2" long is the only were I can tell it was scratched. I can wait to get to use my DA on it.
 
Thanks for posting your results.
Looking forward to your DA applied results and opinion thereof.
Happy detailing...:buffing:
 
This is good to hear. I just purchased some XMT 360 to try out this weekend. From what I have read, most are following it up with a good sealant or nuba, even though it claims to seal, in addition to clean and correct. Thank you for posting your results.
 
I've been impressed with XMT 360 AIO. I have been topping it with Optimum Car Wax.


Vehicle I did in May. It's daily driver which lives outside 24x7 and had never been waxed or polished.
I used Griot's DA and XMT 360 with LC orange pads. Topped with Optimum Spray Car Wax.

7184210038_1abf8b1456_b.jpg


The owner stopped by a local tire shop after she picked it up. She called me while at the tire shop because the staff were commenting on how good her vehicle looked. She was pleased. :xyxthumbs:
 
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So follow up on my wife's car. I had trouble using the DA with the LC CCS Green Polishing bad, and ended up finishing with Meguiar's Cleaner/wax.
I tried it again on my mother-in-laws 2004 Ranger. I prime the pad, but it dosen't work as described. I noticed the CCS pad dosen't work like the flat pads. I got the green finishing cause it was suggest to work with the XMT.
 
What were your problems?

The only problem I've encountered with 360 was user error by applying too much. Oh, and the fact that it doesn't finish out to nothing (product still on paint).
I think that it is a good, durable product at a decent price point.

Just harder to remover from pad. For this reason, I switched to PolySeal which finishes out to clear, much less buffing = less toweling marks. And is much easier to clean off pad.
 
rdfkentucky said:
So follow up on my wife's car. I had trouble using the DA with the LC CCS Green Polishing bad, and ended up finishing with Meguiar's Cleaner/wax.
I tried it again on my mother-in-laws 2004 Ranger. I prime the pad, but it dosen't work as described. I noticed the CCS pad dosen't work like the flat pads. I got the green finishing cause it was suggest to work with the XMT.
Click to expand...

What issues did you encounter?

I use LC 5.5" 7/8" thick flat pads with XMT 360. I have not had issues the combo.

The times I've used XMT360 it has finished out clear.
 
+1 on Poli-Seal, far superior product.

Optimum GPS is great too.
 
It seems like the pad want's to stick to the paint and not turn, I also tried using more XMT, but it didn't help any. I think it might be the pad. I've only used the flat pads and the CSS pad, I can see the small dimples in the pad sometimes when applying the XMT. I'm going to try a flat pad to see how it does.
 
rdfkentucky said:
It seems like the pad want's to stick to the paint and not turn, I also tried using more XMT, but it didn't help any. I think it might be the pad. I've only used the flat pads and the CSS pad, I can see the small dimples in the pad sometimes when applying the XMT. I'm going to try a flat pad to see how it does.
Click to expand...

The pad is saturated with product, clean it up.
 
I've used XMT 360 with LC CCS 5.5 pads with good results on autos that were already pretty "clean" WRT swirls.
 
I tried the white pad this evening and it worked better. Also the Ranger truck is a 1994 instead of a 2004. Are the a learning curve with the CSS pads over the flat pads?
 
rdfkentucky said:
I tried the white pad this evening and it worked better. Also the Ranger truck is a 1994 instead of a 2004. Are the a learning curve with the CSS pads over the flat pads?
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Practicing certainly helps and as time and experience will show you - the technique for one product/pad may not be the same for another product/pad combo. It could be, as others have mentioned, an overloaded pad. Experiment with various pads - BTW, I believe white is great for AIO products. Use smaller amounts of product. If the product dries up on you, you can spray a shot of clean water on the pad or work surface to reactivate the product some more. Less is more. Slow your arm speed down as well - don't move so fast. If you are using a PC 7424XP, push down on the head until the pad is barely spinning. For the Flex 3401, don't apply as much force - just enough to keep the pad flat on the surface.
 
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