Fuzion after D151

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greg72982

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Hello there. I did a search but couldn't find a definitive answer for this particular situation. My plan is to do a wash/strip, clay, D151 with white pad, then apply Fuzion to my girlfriend's car. I guess my basic question is will the D151/Fuzion combo work, and if so do I use an IPA or something after the D151 to remove the "wax" and/or oils and make the Fuzion bond better? Or will it bond OK without doing that?


My reasoning for the D151 is more for it's cleaning and light correction abilities. My understanding is the wax aspect of it is short lived, which is fine, as long as I can apply wax or sealant over it. I have both Fuzion and WGDGPS.
 
Do you have a dedicated polish like 106fa or 205? If so, I would use them and give the Fuzion a better surface to cling to. I have followed up D151 with Optimum car wax, but Fuzion is definitely different and I am not sure you will get much better protection or better looks that are long lasting. Same would go with my topping with OCW, but I do that to make sure the entire car gets covered, not just for added protection (which I doubt occurs).
 
I have put many nubas over 151 with no issues. 151 isn't the most durable product but you will see the full life of the Nuba you choose to top it with. 151 is a great one step that has a nice compromise between gloss and cut.
 
D_Nyholm said:
Do you have a dedicated polish like 106fa or 205? If so, I would use them and give the Fuzion a better surface to cling to. I have followed up D151 with Optimum car wax, but Fuzion is definitely different and I am not sure you will get much better protection or better looks that are long lasting. Same would go with my topping with OCW, but I do that to make sure the entire car gets covered, not just for added protection (which I doubt occurs).
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What about the WGDGPS? I love the stuff but the 12 hour cure time isn't always easy. I'd have to store the car in my parents garage while it cures lol. Basically what I'm looking for is added protection.

I have WG TSR and WG FG. The paint isn't that bad so the TSR would likely be too much.

Dr Oldz said:
I have put many nubas over 151 with no issues. 151 isn't the most durable product but you will see the full life of the Nuba you choose to top it with. 151 is a great one step that has a nice compromise between gloss and cut.
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But I won't need to do an IPA wipedown first right?
 
greg72982 said:
What about the WGDGPS? I love the stuff but the 12 hour cure time isn't always easy. I'd have to store the car in my parents garage while it cures lol. Basically what I'm looking for is added protection.

I have WG TSR and WG FG. The paint isn't that bad so the TSR would likely be too much.



But I won't need to do an IPA wipedown first right?
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I don't use either of those polishes so I really can't comment on them. But you don't need to hide you car in the garage for it to cure I don't believe. I used 4* upp that needed 12 hours to cure BETWEEN coats. I could apply it, wipe it off in 15 minutes and be good to go. I think Wolfgang is the same thing.
 
You don't need to let it sit on the paint for 12 hours if thats what your talking about. It needs to sit on the paint for around 20 mins then you should wait for it to haze and wipe it off. The general rule is when you can wipe your finger across the paint and remove the product without leaving any residue its safe to fully remove.

The 12 hours is referring to being topped. Meaning, you shouldn't add lets say fuzion or any nuba on top of the sealant for 12 hours. I usually wait 3-4 hrs and haven't really noticed any decrease in preformance. Sometimes you can't wait the full 12 hours to top if especailly if your detailing for money. Thats why I kinda switched to either BF or Opti-seal. Spray on and walk away, time is money lol.

As far as the polishes go, I like using Kleen Strip to remove any polshing oils. Your kinda doing more work if your using D151 and fuzion. You would prob get more benifit if you did the WGFG and then Kleen strip/IPA then Fuzion, IMO
 
D151 is a good ONE step.......if your going to top it use something else. with that being said a good IPA wipe down then top it you will have no problems.
 
Avoiding the overnight cure before applying is why I'm using the WOWA stuff too....BFCS OR UPGP is ready for topping or another coat in an hour...151 then quik dawn wash and two coats of one of the above...
 
Mobile detail said:
You don't need to let it sit on the paint for 12 hours if thats what your talking about. It needs to sit on the paint for around 20 mins then you should wait for it to haze and wipe it off. The general rule is when you can wipe your finger across the paint and remove the product without leaving any residue its safe to fully remove.

The 12 hours is referring to being topped. Meaning, you shouldn't add lets say fuzion or any nuba on top of the sealant for 12 hours. I usually wait 3-4 hrs and haven't really noticed any decrease in preformance. Sometimes you can't wait the full 12 hours to top if especailly if your detailing for money. Thats why I kinda switched to either BF or Opti-seal. Spray on and walk away, time is money lol.

As far as the polishes go, I like using Kleen Strip to remove any polshing oils. Your kinda doing more work if your using D151 and fuzion. You would prob get more benifit if you did the WGFG and then Kleen strip/IPA then Fuzion, IMO
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Sounds like I shouldn't have got the D151 in the first place...

I just figured the 12 hours meant for it to completely bond to the paint surface so leaving the car outside (where I usually park it and birds like to have a field day on it) would not work out. When I used it on my car I left it in the garage so no dust, bird droppings, rain etc. would get on it. Maybe I misunderstood that part of it and was being a little too careful.

**EDIT: Just found this on AG's site:

5. This product is moisture-sensitive. In order to achieve a slick, durable finish, Wolfgang Deep Gloss Paint Sealant 3.0 must cure for at least 12 hours before being exposed to moisture. Do not apply sealant before dusk because dew will interfere with the adhesion to the paint. Park your vehicle in a garage or under a shelter while it is curing, if possible.
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