??? How to polish under door handles

Largebore

New member
Joined
Apr 23, 2007
Messages
449
Reaction score
0
Anyone have the secret to polishing under the door handles? My pads obviously do not fit under the handle.
 
Microfiber pad or towel and some compound and polish....:props:
 
I can do that... will give it a shot tomorrow...

thanks
 
Anyone have the secret to polishing under the door handles? My pads obviously do not fit under the handle.

M105 by hand works well for me. :xyxthumbs:

Before:
2012-05-22_09_54_31.jpg


My friend M105:
2012-05-22_09_55_19.jpg


After:
2012-05-22_09_57_53.jpg
 
def. part of my next order.
thanks a lot for the info and pics :-)
 
wggermanapp700.jpg


i have a couple of these i got from AG a few years ago. the dark side is soft, the yellow side is firm. depending how bad they are and what kind of paint, i will use optimum spray polish or compound with the yellow side...or poli-seal...wipe, then finish with poli-seal on the dark side and wipe...or wipe with IPA and apply a couple layers of 2.0 which DEFINITELY helps resist those silly scratches.
 
magic eraser bars! They're the equivalent of 3600-3800 grit so they'll do quick work of all those key scratches under there if the m105 doesn't provide enough umph for you.
 
magic eraser bars! They're the equivalent of 3600-3800 grit so they'll do quick work of all those key scratches under there if the m105 doesn't provide enough umph for you.

do you have a source for this info? i ask because i have seen various claims of all sorts of info like this yet nobody seems to have concrete info regarding their claim. not busting on you, just (finally) asking someone.
 
cheap, clean microfiber towel and m105 is what I use in my shop. I always compound under the door handles, using this method, on an exterior or full detail. It's one of the first things that my customers notice, especially on a white or lighter color vehicle. You can buy fancy finger pads and all that mumbo jumbo, but why waste money. I know some guys cut up retired foam polishing pads and use them for this type of thing. Old cut up pads work well for applying dressing as well.
 
do you have a source for this info? i ask because i have seen various claims of all sorts of info like this yet nobody seems to have concrete info regarding their claim. not busting on you, just (finally) asking someone.

Interesting. I would like to know too
 
I like the idea of using magic erasers. It's worth a try. The worst thing that could happen is that it could slightly dull the paint, which could most likely easily be fixed with m105. A magic eraser is slightly aggressive but its not like you'll sand through the clear coat. I have some magic erasers laying around, because I sometimes use them on really stubborn scuffs on plastic. I think I'll try it on my next detail.
 
I can give my own testimony to the grit grade of the magic eraser bars. Ive used them for a while now and also have used 4000 grit and 3000 as well as 3500 grit. The bars have a tad bit more cut than 4000 grit but don't haze up as much as the 3000 or the 3500. They correct like the 3500 but still finish off a little bit more that's easier to hand polish than 3500. I know Mr. Clean has various cleaning power strengths of their bars and that the cheaper store brand names tend to leave a bit more heavier haze. I guess in terms of the actual grit of the eraser bar that would depend on the manufacturer and the quality.

I use them on door handles and small scratches on the exterior of dark colored cars. They're a lot quicker & easier to use than pulling out a da or having to rub hard with a hand polish. I generally just spot correct with them before going over the entire vehicle with a finishing polish via a da and any haze from the bars is polished away at this point.
 
Back
Top