New paint job. Mild holograms

D

Dadillac

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Just had my car painted changing the color. It was a quality paint job using Spies Hecker paint. The finisher put some mild holograms in the paint. Question. Can I buff the new paint just as I had been buffing the factory paint? I know that the new paint will never be as hard as what came out of the factory. I just want to make sure that I do not damage the paint while trying to get rid of the holograms. Here is how I do it

1) Clean paint (obviously)
2) Use my PC with LC 6" orange pad. I use Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover
3) Speed of the PC set to six. Moderate pressure making 6 section passes
4) Switch to LC white pad and use Wolfgang Finishing Glaze with PC speed set to 5
5) Do 4 section passes with moderate pressure and 2 passes at light pressure
6) Use WDGPS.

With the new not as hard paint is this still acceptable or do I have to change how it is done? thanks

Don
 
Actually most of the time clearcoats that are "aftermarket", are a lot more harder then factory. However there are some cases where they are extremely "soft". You should just do a test spot and find out. Test with a very low abrasive polish and pad.
Just make sure you don't use any glazes or waxes that would clog up the pours of the paint for at least 4-5 weeks.
 
Okay going a different direction. I will be using M105 and M205 followed by WDGPS. I think this will be the ticket with using slow speed and light pressure.

Don
 
Dadillac said:
Okay going a different direction. I will be using M105 and M205 followed by WDGPS. I think this will be the ticket with using slow speed and light pressure.

Don
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You shouldn't need M105 on new paint with "mild holograms". As mentioned above do a test spot and use the least aggressive pad/product needed to get the job done.
 
Agreed^^ I don't know why people think 105 is a polish. It's a strong compound!!! heavy swirls and scratches need 105. Not light swirls and holograms.
 
truckbutt said:
You shouldn't need M105 on new paint with "mild holograms". As mentioned above do a test spot and use the least aggressive pad/product needed to get the job done.
Click to expand...
There is fine scratching, holograms, minor RIDS, and some hazing due to incomplete buffing. All minor stuff. I just figured that the M105 did such an awesome job of removing a bird poo stain on my fresh paint, rubbing by hand, that using the M105 with my PC would make quick work of these defects. Instead of running the machine at 6 I would try it on 3 or 4. Instead of applying 15 lbs of pressure I was gonna try like half of that. I am also contemplating just doing it by hand. Seems like it would go quickly that way too. Then run the M205 with the machine. The M105 may be aggressive but wouldn't it also be the fastest and easiest approach?

Don
 
Agfan said:
Agreed^^ I don't know why people think 105 is a polish. It's a strong compound!!! heavy swirls and scratches need 105. Not light swirls and holograms.
Click to expand...
My thinking is why work hard with a polish when a compound will do the job faster and with less effort. Is this a poor train of thought? I am a newb at this stuff. I only do my own vehicles and only like once a year at that

Don
 
Dadillac said:
My thinking is why work hard with a polish when a compound will do the job faster and with less effort. Is this a poor train of thought? I am a newb at this stuff. I only do my own vehicles and only like once a year at that

Don
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Your car only has a limited amount of clearcoat. You waste it at your own peril. Also using M105 in ways that are not recommended will get you less then stellar results which you'll just have to redo. This is about working smarter not harder.
 
Dadillac said:
My thinking is why work hard with a polish when a compound will do the job faster and with less effort. Is this a poor train of thought? I am a newb at this stuff. I only do my own vehicles and only like once a year at that

Don
Click to expand...

Yes. Always start out Lear aggressive. You will absolutely need to polish the whole car anyway after you compound. Plus I don't know how many times I've seen people compound their car so much, they worn down their clear coat and started into the base coat. Safe the paint man.
 
truckbutt said:
You would'nt want to use any wax/sealant for at least 30 days after a new paint job.
Paint Needs to Breathe=
(Vintage Mike Phillips circa 2004)
Click to expand...

talk to Dr. G about this. he worked on the technology side of the automotive paint industry for a long time prior to OPT. he has some interesting insights regarding spray wax and his sealant vs. new paint.

Dadillac said:
There is fine scratching, holograms, minor RIDS, and some hazing due to incomplete buffing. All minor stuff. I just figured that the M105 did such an awesome job of removing a bird poo stain on my fresh paint, rubbing by hand, that using the M105 with my PC would make quick work of these defects. Instead of running the machine at 6 I would try it on 3 or 4. Instead of applying 15 lbs of pressure I was gonna try like half of that. I am also contemplating just doing it by hand. Seems like it would go quickly that way too. Then run the M205 with the machine. The M105 may be aggressive but wouldn't it also be the fastest and easiest approach?

Don
Click to expand...

if it were mine, i'd imagine optimum hyper spray polish and a white pad would handle it, maybe even less aggressive with the mechanical side. depends on the paint. it would likely finish LSP ready while tackling the issues you describe. 105 wouldn't finish well enough and would just be too aggressive on many fronts. you can get it done with one product and one type of pad.
 
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