After Claying......wipe off or let dry?

Puckywuckums

New member
Joined
Jul 9, 2012
Messages
49
Reaction score
0
Mike
While on "another website" I watched a vid showing the tech not removing the clay lube after claying. They went straight to the polishing stage, allowing it to dry. Is this something you recommend?

Thanks.
 
Mike
While on "another website" I watched a vid showing the tech not removing the clay lube after claying. They went straight to the polishing stage, allowing it to dry. Is this something you recommend?

Thanks.

I'm going to guess you're talking about Adam at Adam's Polishes and Adam is a good friend of mine, we've been friends since around 2004. I have the highest respect for Adam and the success he's carved out in this industry, he's a good guy and an incredibly hard worker. That said, I agree everyone has the right to teach detailing the way they believe is right in their eyes. I don't always have to agree with their procedures. That doesn't mean I don't respect them.


Here's my take, I'll let you decide which "best practice" makes sense.


When you clay a car using detailing clay, "if" the car has contamination, claying loosens and removes the contamination.

Because the clay is tacky, the loosened contaminants "should" all stick to the clay and not be left on the paint surface in the clay lube slurry.

The above is a perfect world scenario.

Here's my take, when you loose contaminants off the paint, how will you know all contaminants have stuck to the clay? Couldn't some of them still be on the paint surface in the residual slurry?

It's my belief that you're better off to wipe the clay lube residue and any loosened contaminants off the paint immediately after claying a section. That's what I do when I detail a car, that's what I show when I make a video and that's what I teach in a class.

There's no benefit to leaving a film of spent clay lube and loosened contaminants on the paint.

Any loosened contaminants left on the paint will now be ground into the paint when you start machine buffing, that doesn't make good sense, it doesn't make a good "Best Practice" and it's working backward in the paint polishing process, not working forwards. I believe the goal to creating a show car finish is to always be working forward in the process, not backwards. That means each step you do to the car should take you closer to the goal, not away from the goal.

If you want to drill deep, the spent clay lube on the surface will dilute or adulterate the fresh compound or polish you'll be using when you buff on the paint, if you put things in extremes, (and I do because the nature of most detailers is to be anal retentive), adding spent clay lube slurry to fresh compound or polish doesn't make the compound or polish better. What's the opposite of better?


That's just my take. I wouldn't do it.

Heck, it only takes seconds to wipe off the clay lube residue anyways...


When I worked for Meguiar's, lots of people that were brand new to detailing in general and claying in specific could easily be freaked out anytime something didn't look good after doing a step or process to the paint, this includes leaving clay lube on the paint to dry.

As someone who teaches others the craft and art of detailing, you don't do things to Newbies that have the potential to freak them out about their car's paint. In fact, you do the opposite, you do everything in a way to increase their comfort level when teaching them detailing procedures.


:)
 
Would it be ideal to do an IPA wipedown or paint cleaning stage after claying but before applying a LSP? If there is no compounding/polishing required.
 
After claying my Bike. I was going too rewash or is the wipe down better?
 
Great! Thanks so much for the reply.

No problemo, like I said Adam is a good friend and I'm sure he explains why he leaves the clay lube residue on the paint but that's not a technique I would use or share.



Would it be ideal to do an IPA wipedown or paint cleaning stage after claying but before applying a LSP? If there is no compounding/polishing required.

If the manufacture of the LSP you're going to apply recommends or states you must have a surgically clean surface then "yes", or use some other method of cleaning the finish, like carefully washing the car with a car wash soap or if you're so included a detergent soap.

See my articles here,

Miscible and Immiscible - Wax and Paint Sealant Bonding

How to Mix IPA for Inspecting Correction Results




After claying my Bike. I was going too rewash or is the wipe down better?


The problem with wiping with something strong enough to remove polishing oils and other unwanted substances is they don't tend to be the best lubricants and if you're working on black paint, if you inspect using great light you might see marring which is a warm, fuzzy term for shallow scratches.

If you're working on a light colored paint job, you might not see the marring but that doesn't mean it's not there, it's just hard to see on light colors.

I discuss this in-depth in this article,

Hologram Free with a Rotary Buffer




:)
 
:iagree:Good common sense instruction. I iknow some people like to wash or have a short wash or quick pressure wash after claying, but like Mike said after you clay it might not be necessary to wipe the car down but it's better to be safe than sorry. Plus it would not take that long just to give each section a quick wipe after claying. No harm done! For me it's perfect instruction ! Many thanks! Godbless
 
Myself Dawn, Clay, Dawn. As mike says what works for you.
 
I always wipe the residue off also. Just seems weird to me that you have it still on there when your buffing.
 
Mike maybe you should think about practicing what you preach.

You could have just as easily answered the OP’s question without any reference to your so called friend Adam. I happen to agree with your comments and advice to the OP, but find the tone of your response unprofessional and unnecessary.

You went to great lengths to convince the readers here, that this Adam guy is a great friend and that you really respect him, but then turn around and completely “bag” him with your response. The OP made no mention of any name; therefore it was inappropriate to introduce this Adams guy in your response. I can’t fathom why you even had the thought to introduce his name, unless you had some ulterior motive.

If that is how you publicly discuss your friends Mike, then I think it is reasonable to say, that I’m glad that I’m not one of your friends.

Just recently, you unnecessarily chastised a poster here in a Rupes thread re whether the Rupes compounds/polishes were DAT or SMAT abrasives. The poster stated that he was told by a representative of the Rupes company, that it was “x”. You then sanctimoniously asked the poster if he had permission from the company to post such information. I would suggest that the poster had every right to post the information he was given, unless expressly forbidden not to by that company. If the representative of the company shouldn't have furnished the information, then it was his/their fault, not the posters. Again an ulterior motive jumps out – you were caught short, not knowing the answer to the question, so attempted some lame explanation.

If you wish to set standards on this forum, then I’d suggest the same standard should apply to both Autogeek employees and the users of this forum.

How about in the future, just restricting your remarks to “detailing” which most of us acknowledge you are qualified to do. The vacuous nonsense is just not required.
 
Speaking of practicing what you preach, why didn't you put this in PM to Mike? Mike's tone was one of not understanding why you would do such a thing and probably referring to a specific persons technique because he knows it is commonly searched and viewed on the web. And unless I missed something, Mike I don't think Mike wasn't practicing what he preaches. And Adam should thank Mike for dropping his name/company on this forum as now anytime someone searches claying they will be referred to Adam's and can decide for themself if one way is right for them over the other. Free publicity in my opinion.:)
Mike, feel free to call me your friend and discuss my business, Shaun Shines Auto Detailing, on the internet anytime you want.:)
With the hours Mike puts into his job and life, I will let him slide for occasionally having a "tone" in any non spoken forum. I know his intentions and where his heart lies. I am very glad to be able to call Mike a friend and am sure he had no ulterior motive in his posts.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using AG Online
 
Mike maybe you should think about practicing what you preach.

You could have just as easily answered the OP’s question without any reference to your so called friend Adam. I happen to agree with your comments and advice to the OP, but find the tone of your response unprofessional and unnecessary.

You went to great lengths to convince the readers here, that this Adam guy is a great friend and that you really respect him, but then turn around and completely “bag” him with your response. The OP made no mention of any name; therefore it was inappropriate to introduce this Adams guy in your response. I can’t fathom why you even had the thought to introduce his name, unless you had some ulterior motive.

If that is how you publicly discuss your friends Mike, then I think it is reasonable to say, that I’m glad that I’m not one of your friends.

Just recently, you unnecessarily chastised a poster here in a Rupes thread re whether the Rupes compounds/polishes were DAT or SMAT abrasives. The poster stated that he was told by a representative of the Rupes company, that it was “x”. You then sanctimoniously asked the poster if he had permission from the company to post such information. I would suggest that the poster had every right to post the information he was given, unless expressly forbidden not to by that company. If the representative of the company shouldn't have furnished the information, then it was his/their fault, not the posters. Again an ulterior motive jumps out – you were caught short, not knowing the answer to the question, so attempted some lame explanation.

If you wish to set standards on this forum, then I’d suggest the same standard should apply to both Autogeek employees and the users of this forum.

How about in the future, just restricting your remarks to “detailing” which most of us acknowledge you are qualified to do. The vacuous nonsense is just not required.

Jackie-Chan-WTF-meme-face-70958233396.jpeg
 
Oh and i'm not sure if those 2 guys are gonna get kicked off or what, but I am pretty sure Mike meant no harm by it. I reread what he wrote and it's not offensive at all. He probably mentioned his friend because he must also be wellknown. I think people who like drama should go find it elsewhere. People who want to learn about detailing should remain on this site. Thanks and heed good advice before you do something bad! Godbless. Happy detailing!
 
After looking a gmc's post history I think he has burned several bridges on the forum and possibly in the industry. He has a history of being very malicious toward other members as well as product companies' employees and owner(s)/president(s). He even had a post towards a "fellow Aussie" that was quite rudely toned IMO. And he had the nerve to tell someone else to practice what they preach.LOL A lot of members want even post in a thread that he has posted in because of He behavior. Some people's kids.:) And he didn't even post anything to go with the OP's thread.
As far as that topic goes I think we all will echo Mike's MO on that.
One thing not mentioned about the topic here is that most products state not to left to dry on any surface, i.e. paint. And if you do and say the client or a potential client walks up to check out the car/progress they wont be able to see the true effect that clay produces. It will possibly look unsightly to them and they will ask what it is and if it is going to damage their car. Like Mike says, it is a best practice to work forward and not even give the impression you are working backwards.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I897 using AG Online
 
Mike maybe you should think about practicing what you preach.

You could have just as easily answered the OP’s question without any reference to your so called friend Adam. I happen to agree with your comments and advice to the OP, but find the tone of your response unprofessional and unnecessary.

You went to great lengths to convince the readers here, that this Adam guy is a great friend and that you really respect him, but then turn around and completely “bag” him with your response. The OP made no mention of any name; therefore it was inappropriate to introduce this Adams guy in your response. I can’t fathom why you even had the thought to introduce his name, unless you had some ulterior motive.

If that is how you publicly discuss your friends Mike, then I think it is reasonable to say, that I’m glad that I’m not one of your friends.

Just recently, you unnecessarily chastised a poster here in a Rupes thread re whether the Rupes compounds/polishes were DAT or SMAT abrasives. The poster stated that he was told by a representative of the Rupes company, that it was “x”. You then sanctimoniously asked the poster if he had permission from the company to post such information. I would suggest that the poster had every right to post the information he was given, unless expressly forbidden not to by that company. If the representative of the company shouldn't have furnished the information, then it was his/their fault, not the posters. Again an ulterior motive jumps out – you were caught short, not knowing the answer to the question, so attempted some lame explanation.

If you wish to set standards on this forum, then I’d suggest the same standard should apply to both Autogeek employees and the users of this forum.

How about in the future, just restricting your remarks to “detailing” which most of us acknowledge you are qualified to do. The vacuous nonsense is just not required.

Nothing wrong with Mike's post. :dblthumb2:

BTW do you guys always wash after a clay session? My method has been to clay, wipe off the clay lube, then spray more clay lube on the same panel and rewipe. Am I just marring the paint by doing this by rewiping the clay lube that may contain contaminants that came unbonded during the clay process?
 
Nothing wrong with Mike's post. :dblthumb2:

BTW do you guys always wash after a clay session? My method has been to clay, wipe off the clay lube, then spray more clay lube on the same panel and rewipe. Am I just marring the paint by doing this by rewiping the clay lube that may contain contaminants that came unbonded during the clay process?

I wash after clay to get rid of lube spray. Contaminants should be picked up with clay. IMHO. I fiquire this way the paint is ready for polish or what ever ur next step is.
 
Oh and i'm not sure if those 2 guys are gonna get kicked off or what, but I am pretty sure Mike meant no harm by it. I reread what he wrote and it's not offensive at all. He probably mentioned his friend because he must also be wellknown. I think people who like drama should go find it elsewhere. People who want to learn about detailing should remain on this site. Thanks and heed good advice before you do something bad! Godbless. Happy detailing!

:applause:
 
BTW do you guys always wash after a clay session?

LOL way to bring the thread back on track. I like to wipe all the clay residue off each panel when I'm finished claying. I figure if gently wiping clay lube off is going to cause additional marring the paint will have already been marred to hell from the actual claying process.
 
Back
Top