Sanding scratches in the finish after buffing

[WHSII]

I repainted my test panels, Sanded a few sags out with 800. went to 1000 then 1200.

Used Menzerna 1000 for initial compounding. Used Menzerna 4500 for the finish.

I have a brilliant gloss but have some sanding marks that show.

I felt that I sanded well enough between grits but...

I do not think I can get a picture to show what I am seeing.

I used 800 on a few sags and for some dust partials that I had. I went to 1000 and did a diagonal sanding, in two directions as you would if you were blocking primer. I did the same with 1200.

When I did the same on the test panels, I found that the scratches buffed out with Menzerna 4500. The reflection is brilliant, I can read the labels, of course, backwards, in boxes on the shelves eight feet away, but I can still see the scratches looking closely. They run on the bias as I was sanding. You have to look hard in the right light but they are there...

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

 

[Rsurfer]

I repainted my test panels, Sanded a few sags out with 800. went to 1000 then 1200.

Used Menzerna 1000 for initial compounding. Used Menzerna 4500 for the finish.

I have a brilliant gloss but have some sanding marks that show.

I felt that I sanded well enough between grits but...

I do not think I can get a picture to show what I am seeing.

I used 800 on a few sags and for some dust partials that I had. I went to 1000 and did a diagonal sanding, in two directions as you would if you were blocking primer. I did the same with 1200.

When I did the same on the test panels, I found that the scratches buffed out with Menzerna 4500. The reflection is brilliant, I can read the labels, of course, backwards, in boxes on the shelves eight feet away, but I can still see the scratches looking closely. They run on the bias as I was sanding. You have to look hard in the right light but they are there...

Any thoughts?

Thanks!

Appears that 4500 is not aggressive enough. It's just refining the micro marring, but not removing the deeper scratches. Do you have Power Finish?

 

[BobbyG]

Hello WH!

Menzerna makes some great products but I think you used products from each end of their line back to back...

Take a look at this chart...

Once your through with the Menzerna PG1000 I'd suggest 1 or 2 of these before you use Menzerna 4500....

PF 2500 – Power Finish Polish (PO203)
FF 3000 – Final Finish Polish (PO85U)
SF 4000 – Super Finish Polish (PO106FA)[FONT=&quot]

[/FONT]

 

[richy]

In my opinion you did not go fine enough with your sanding. I always finish with 3G paper and then compound. M105+ wool+ rotary will correct that in seconds.

 

[WHSII]

I refined my sanding procedure, I started using 1000 and level everything. Then I tried 2000 grit, and it was much quicker to sand to get a better even darker color, with very fine scratches.

I then went with a 3M 3000 grid foam backed paper and worked it all down again, very quick even sanding gave me a sheen with just sanding. not great but it started to glow.

I then compounded with Menzerna 1000, then their 2500, then the 4500 and am amazed.

I also started wiping down between steps with a microfiber towel instead of a clean cotton towel. I believe that helped also.

I am sure I am not getting the results as the Pro's do, but am amazed and thrilled.

Thanks!

 

[luv a shine]

ostpics:

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

In my opinion you did not go fine enough with your sanding. I always finish with 3G paper and then compound. M105+ wool+ rotary will correct that in seconds.

I agree. IF you finish down with #3000 either Meguiar's Unigrit, 3M Trizact M105 with a wool pad on a rotary buffer will easily remove these sanding marks.

I then went with a 3M 3000 grit foam backed paper and worked it all down again, very quick even sanding gave me a sheen with just sanding. not great but it started to glow.

Sounds about right... when you get to the #3000 #4000 and #5000 grit discs you actually start creating sheen instead of a flat look and removing these types of shallow scratches is not only faster but you can buff a lot cooler for the process.

Most people I've talked to say destructive polishing starts at around 180 degrees surface temperature so it's better to buff cool than hot.

 

[richy]

I agree. IF you finish down with #3000 either Meguiar's Unigrit, 3M Trizact M105 with a wool pad on a rotary buffer will easily remove these sanding marks.






Sounds about right... when you get to the #3000 #4000 and #5000 grit discs you actually start creating sheen instead of a flat look and removing these types of shallow scratches is not only faster but you can buff a lot cooler for the process.

Most people I've talked to say destructive polishing starts at around 180 degrees surface temperature so it's better to buff cool than hot.

Destructive polishing? Makes sense. Another reason to use wool pads for the heavy stuff.


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