Hey Vegas- Yes I was turning the buff at 3400 rpm because I can not generate enough heat at 1400 with the tire still mounted on the rim. Seems like the air in the tire and the tire itself absorbs a lot of the heat. I don't get the ambient air temp that you guys get down south so I have to generate my own. When I was in Phoenix in the summer time the metals were at a great temp for polishing.
The rim was a steel rim with a chrome coating. Factory GM wheel set up.
I like the stiff purple buff for projects like these because it chews pretty good and doesn't get plugged up with rouge (less cleaning of the pad through out the job).
When I am doing aluminum I can polish at 1400 with the course rouge and then go to 3400 with my final coloring rouge.
Aluminum is such a soft metal and much easier to buff that the rock blasted stuff I was doing in the video.
Maybe it's me Mr. Cullen, but 400 grit rouge and a stiff wheel on chrome is overkill.
I can only imagine the leading edges of the wheel's intricate surfaces after being plowed by both products.
There are OP's here that post of burning through the chrome simply by using a soft foam cone, underpowered drill, and an OTC paste polish.
It was only several weeks ago that I PM'ed a poster telling him to PM you seeking advice.
That was before I saw your blog/website/videos. If you look @ APAD's, Flannigan's, B&B's , Corey's, tuscora dave's...(and the list is endless) individual websites and videos,
they show their own work. Vehicles that they are, or have, worked on.
Not resorting to parlor tricks such as the bait and switch that you used in the chrome wheel video. What was the hurry - fear of timing out on YouTube?
I find it almost criminal that you would tell a prospective customer to use 400 grit and a stiff wheel, remove the item from the set,then proceed to show only green liquid polish with a softer buff.
While I am a simple man (self taught, guided by those in the field), common sense goes a long way, and Autogeekians aren't easily deceived...
don't pee on my leg hand and tell me it's raining.
I wish you much luck and success, but don't think for a minute that Autogeekians are simple minded. I was greatful when you joined here, due to the fact that I only seek guidance from one metal working forum, and thought maybe your insight could add value to what I may be missing out on.
Last, but not least, I agree with the ambient temp/wheel suface temp issue....but, the GM two part wheel is not tightly fitted, thus less of the possibility of heat draw. If you get your SFPM down to the correct level and increase pressure, while decreasing arm movement, then the issue will resolve itself unless in extreme situations.
If I owe you an apology, then I'm sure that AGO forum members will come to your defense and set me on the right track.
