Can clay barring cause scratches on a new car?

As I unfortunately found out on my black Porsche 911, yes clay can mar the paint. At the time, I was using the Meguiar's OTC clay.

I have since tried the Sonus clay and found no marring. It was between that and the Pinnacle and I found one review that said the Sonus was the most gentle clay so I went with that.

Good news, the marring should come out very easily with a fine finishing polish. If your paint is so soft that clay causes marring, you're a great candidate for a coating - that's what I did. There are great ones out there and they will all provide you with a level of scratch resistance greatest than your current clear.
 
As I unfortunately found out on my black Porsche 911, yes clay can mar the paint. At the time, I was using the Meguiar's OTC clay.

I have since tried the Sonus clay and found no marring. It was between that and the Pinnacle and I found one review that said the Sonus was the most gentle clay so I went with that.

Good news, the marring should come out very easily with a fine finishing polish. If your paint is so soft that clay causes marring, you're a great candidate for a coating - that's what I did. There are great ones out there and they will all provide you with a level of scratch resistance greatest than your current clear.

I might get Sonus instead. Thanks. After reading the OP. I don't think i will ever use the Pinnacle fine poly that I have bought.

I don't like Opticoat and the likes permanent coatings. I have research them a lot they leave a grabby surface, not slick and sliding. Also they alter the metallic look. It does not remain 100% clear with age.

I have polished my used Honda with Meguiars's DA and compound + polish. Got excellent results. But it does not make sense to polish a brand new BMW.
 
Waxing or putting a sealant is a piece of cake. Polishing is much more sensible work especially by hand. I have the Meguiar DA polish tool and used it with great results on a lesser car but I think it is too much potential troubles to do that just for the benefit of claying. I think it is too obtrusive on a factory new paint. And as far as wax not holding on a non clayed car, I will give it a try. No risk with that. If it doesn't I can always reconsider claying.
 
Waxing or putting a sealant is a piece of cake. Polishing is much more sensible work especially by hand. I have the Meguiar DA polish tool and used it with great results on a lesser car but I think it is too much potential troubles to do that just for the benefit of claying. I think it is too obtrusive on a factory new paint. And as far as wax not holding on a non clayed car, I will give it a try. No risk with that. If it doesn't I can always reconsider claying.

Keep in mind that some of those contaminants can actually damage the paint themselves over time.
 
Don't clay unless you plan on Polishing and waxing after as a general rule.

Well what happens for example if I am putting my car away for the winter and don't need to do a Paint Correction because my car is in great shape? Wouldn't I still need to clay the car to be able to Machine-apply a Sealant?

Thanks!
 
I bought a new 2014 Toyota a few weeks ago and clayed it and got the same type of scratches. Very short 1"-2" straight scratches at different angles that look like the same type of strokes I was using when I clayed the car. I clayed with DP clay and lube and used a lot of lube but I may not have kneeded it as often as I should have. I used no pressure and let it glide and it felt like it was not doing anything, but I got plenty of super fine scratches. I polished with Meg 205 and got most of them out. I won't be claying much any more.
 
Well what happens for example if I am putting my car away for the winter and don't need to do a Paint Correction because my car is in great shape? Wouldn't I still need to clay the car to be able to Machine-apply a Sealant?

Thanks!

I would. But be CAREFUL when claying, don't want to have it looking all marred up underneath. ;)
 
This is an old thread and OP probably had his answer already, but my first thought was "why clay a brand new truck"?

Usually you clay your car if the contaminants have penetrated your paint/clear coat and you have that rough feelings when you touch the surface of it after a good bucket wash. That bonding of contamination with the paint takes time. And you should always use the least aggressive treatment unless it's necessary to do something more (so, if it's a brand new car you would just want to wash it and wax it, not even polish it).

Anyway, if the damage done by clay can not be felt by fingernails (and it shouldn't be, unless there was something on clay to cut through clear coat/paint) then it's relatively easy to fix. As others suggested, just polish the car and then, for durable protection, apply the coat of wax or sealant and you should be fine.

P.S. Still puzzled why did the OP clay the brand new vehicle
 
P.S. Still puzzled why did the OP clay the brand new vehicle

Sometimes there are more contaminant on a new car than a car that was clayed new but hasn't been clayed in a while. Most cars are shipped first by rail, then truck. If imported, by ship before that. You have brake dust from truck and train brakes, overspray from tagging boxcars, sand and grit from tracks that can bond in the paint; even jet fuel that evaporates and contaminates paint as many shipping yards are located near airports. Soot from diesel exhaust blowing onto an open car trailer, and so on and so forth.

Not every new car needs it of course. But my wifes brand-new Honda motorcycle failed the baggy test and left pretty dirty clay. Others have shown just how contaminated new cars can be by using Iron-X or claying on brand new cars.

I ordered a new Ford. I'll pick it up off the truck myself. I'll let you know if it's contaminated! I suspect it will be.
 
Romans,

You are actually right about railroad dust in transportation, that could be the case, but most of the cars are plastered by plastic cover that is removed by the dealer before the delivery or when they put it on their lot. Thus, most cars come 100% contamination protected (the top surfaces at least). But if one dealer (after removing protective covers) trades the cars with another and sends it from California to Vermont then of course much can happen on the way. Again, this would assume that the car was transported without the factory sealed/attached protective covers.

P.S. If it was up to me I would go to dealer and pick the car from their lot, and not let them deliver it for me. It always irritates me that there is some law or regulation that forces dealer to do scrubbing on my car and not letting me to take a possession of it "as is" from the factory. Greatest damage to brand new cars done in delivery stage where their fast car wash guys put the first swirl marks on a paint.
 
Romans,

You are actually right about railroad dust in transportation, that could be the case, but most of the cars are plastered by plastic cover that is removed by the dealer before the delivery or when they put it on their lot. Thus, most cars come 100% contamination protected (the top surfaces at least). But if one dealer (after removing protective covers) trades the cars with another and sends it from California to Vermont then of course much can happen on the way. Again, this would assume that the car was transported without the factory sealed/attached protective covers.

P.S. If it was up to me I would go to dealer and pick the car from their lot, and not let them deliver it for me. It always irritates me that there is some law or regulation that forces dealer to do scrubbing on my car and not letting me to take a possession of it "as is" from the factory. Greatest damage to brand new cars done in delivery stage where their fast car wash guys put the first swirl marks on a paint.

The plastic is better on some cars than others. As it is, you can search the forums and find examples of brand new, off the truck cars severely contaminated, and off the truck cars sparkling clean.

Also; find another dealer. Myself and others have had no problem taking a car 'as is' right off of the truck. My dealer won't be touching it. Just a basic inspection. They are going to leave the plastic on and everything. There's most definitely no law I've ever heard of requiring the dealer to wash the car. What it probably is, is that you paid a prep and setup fee that they can't charge you, legally, if they don't do the prep and setup! However, I won't be paying those fees. But it is a racket. I've seen those prep fees (not just destination+delivery) being in the several hundreds of dollars, which is what they charge to remove the plastic and run it through the auto-wash machine.

If they aren't willing to NOT damage your car, then do not buy from them. Period. It's a completely, 100% reasonable request that MOST dealers will honor NOT to damage your car with their automatic wash machines or poor hand washing techniques.

Some dealers fight it simply because lots of people would demand to do their own prep and setup and not pay those fees. Heck, anyone can run it through a carwash and pull plastic off and not need to pay someone $500 to do it.
 
It may not be the State Law, it might be the manufacturer, but dealers MUST remove the adhesives (including the window sticker) from the car before delivering it to you.
Most franchise owners will not risk getting in trouble with the franchisor (let alone State) over this and will insist that they have to "deliver" car for you. Even if they charge you zero dollars, they still send that car to their wash bays (not necessarily automated carwash, but their own bays) and have it "prepped" for you.
Of course there are some exceptions. If you have your buddy "Fat" Tony selling cars at your local dealership, he can "fix it" for you by telling his guys "this dummy wants to do his own sweating, give it to him with plaster all over it", but usually they will just remove all those adhesives, wash and dry it before giving you keys and tags to drive it off.

Re: damage in transportation, yes, as you and I said earlier, the transportation has many hazards and the railroad dust can do huge damage to paint , unless it is well protected. Most cars (as far as I can tell, seeing the transporters carry 10-15 cars on their beds) have that protective cover which should be enough to guard against clear coat contamination. But it does not apply to all cases and if car dealer removes the plastic, parks the car on his lot and it happens to be by a rail-road then that "brand new" car can come in as bad shape as you said :cry::doh:
 
It may not be the State Law, it might be the manufacturer, but dealers MUST remove the adhesives (including the window sticker) from the car before delivering it to you.
Most franchise owners will not risk getting in trouble with the franchisor (let alone State) over this and will insist that they have to "deliver" car for you. Even if they charge you zero dollars, they still send that car to their wash bays (not necessarily automated carwash, but their own bays) and have it "prepped" for you.
Of course there are some exceptions. If you have your buddy "Fat" Tony selling cars at your local dealership, he can "fix it" for you by telling his guys "this dummy wants to do his own sweating, give it to him with plaster all over it", but usually they will just remove all those adhesives, wash and dry it before giving you keys and tags to drive it off.

Re: damage in transportation, yes, as you and I said earlier, the transportation has many hazards and the railroad dust can do huge damage to paint , unless it is well protected. Most cars (as far as I can tell, seeing the transporters carry 10-15 cars on their beds) have that protective cover which should be enough to guard against clear coat contamination. But it does not apply to all cases and if car dealer removes the plastic, parks the car on his lot and it happens to be by a rail-road then that "brand new" car can come in as bad shape as you said :cry::doh:

Sorry but I just can't agree with you on that one bud. Someone is feeding you a line, or maybe just your state is different. But lots of folks around here get new cars from dealers without the dealers touching them. Larry from AmmoNYC and our own Mike Phillips, along with countless other detailing gurus instruct you to tell the dealer NOT to wash the car or prep it. There is just no WAY there is a regulation requiring them to wash it. Remove the adhesives? MAYBE, but if they refuse to NOT wash it, it's time to walk.

Here's a recent thread from a fellow autogeeker who is getting the same service from his dealer. I know nobody at my dealer. I walked in, having never met any of them, ordered my car, and instructed them over the phone shortly after not to wash or detail or prep the car, to which they said okay. I'm gonna go pick it up after they unload it from the truck, plastics and all.

I'm certainly not an expert on the subject but it seems extremely common, among many makes/models of cars, for detailing enthusiasts to say 'no' to prep and setup. You may even try and fib a little and say "I have a guy who details my cars" (Just don't tell them that guy is you).

Maybe your state has some weird, wacky law that thou must have thy dealer wash thy car, but I just get a feeling that you're being fed a line. A friend of mine is a service manager at a dealership and when asked about it, he told me that some dealers charge a prep/setup fee that they technically can't charge if you do it; and/or, some manufacturers (including Ford and GM) occasionally reimburse dealers for prep/setup type stuff, to let them be more 'competitive' price wise. But they can't get reimbursed if they don't actually do it. So they want the manufacturer to pay them. Most of the money dealerships make is residual income, not profit on the cars. They get it from warranty work, fees, repairs, maintenance and service, and add-on sales.

There's one sure fire way to tell that a car salesman is lying. His mouth is open.
 
Romans,

My experience with dealers is personal, meaning I speak from my personal encounters and, as you can imagine, I did not have enough time to buy too many cars in my life so far. It's still under a dozen (though I get a new car every 2-3 years). And on at least two occasions I specifically asked the dealer not to touch a car. One dealer outright refused to not remove adhesives (some adhesives have even "must be removed by dealer" printed all over), the other actually tried to fool me by first removing them and then putting over something else, making it look like they didn't touch it. In both of those cases I picked my car from the lot (saw cars covered with plaster and all), so it's not like I didn't know what I was buying. And, for most part, if I buy a new car I negotiate it below invoice or at invoice so dealer actually has incentive NOT TO DO anything but throw the keys at me and say "Now get the h**** out of here!".
So, I think there must be either franchisor requirement or some local regulation if they seriously insist on doing some extra work while I don't even pay them for their invoice. And I would hardly believe that the motivation is to take revenge on me by damaging a car in washing process.
I didn't even ask that they "don't touch" my latest car, I let them deliver it as they could and I will just spend one nice weekend day doing a thorough bucket wash then polishing and sealing it. But in general, I wish they never did that (delivery prep) and allowed buyers to get the car "as is" from the factory.

Of course I am not going to argue with you. It's not that I am "fed up" anything. In fact I haven't heard anyone telling me about the law or regulation to remove adhesives and prep the car, I just assumed there must be one based on my individual experience of car buying.


Glad that you were able to get your car in "untouched" condition. In my opinion that's how brand new car should be!
 
Romans,

My experience with dealers is personal, meaning I speak from my personal encounters and, as you can imagine, I did not have enough time to buy too many cars in my life so far. It's still under a dozen (though I get a new car every 2-3 years). And on at least two occasions I specifically asked the dealer not to touch a car. One dealer outright refused to not remove adhesives (some adhesives have even "must be removed by dealer" printed all over), the other actually tried to fool me by first removing them and then putting over something else, making it look like they didn't touch it. In both of those cases I picked my car from the lot (saw cars covered with plaster and all), so it's not like I didn't know what I was buying. And, for most part, if I buy a new car I negotiate it below invoice or at invoice so dealer actually has incentive NOT TO DO anything but throw the keys at me and say "Now get the h**** out of here!".
So, I think there must be either franchisor requirement or some local regulation if they seriously insist on doing some extra work while I don't even pay them for their invoice. And I would hardly believe that the motivation is to take revenge on me by damaging a car in washing process.
I didn't even ask that they "don't touch" my latest car, I let them deliver it as they could and I will just spend one nice weekend day doing a thorough bucket wash then polishing and sealing it. But in general, I wish they never did that (delivery prep) and allowed buyers to get the car "as is" from the factory.

Of course I am not going to argue with you. It's not that I am "fed up" anything. In fact I haven't heard anyone telling me about the law or regulation to remove adhesives and prep the car, I just assumed there must be one based on my individual experience of car buying.


Glad that you were able to get your car in "untouched" condition. In my opinion that's how brand new car should be!

I agree!

I bet it's like my friend said, and your dealers are being reimbursed by the manufacturer. Think about it, who in their right mind would truly sell a car 'below cost'. I mean they make you feel like it's a good deal, but they are making money. One of the ways may be reimbursements from doing prep work on your car!

As far as removing plastics, they may be required to remove anything that could affect the safe driving of the vehicle. Though I still don't know why they'd be required to wash it. But, I'm not the knower of all things! So maybe it's some weird manufacturer rule.

And yeah; I know it's just as easy to polish it; but clearcoat has to be removed to remove those scratches. Yuck!

I'd be perfectly satisfied if they removed the plastics and things too. I just didn't want their nasty dealership sticker. (My dealers logo/sticker is a red white and blue uncle-sam style top hat; how tacky!). But as long as they didn't wash, buff, polish, wax, or do anything else to the paint I'd be happy!

In my case I bought the car on a Ford employee friends/family discount, along with rebates and incentives. So in the end, I paid thousands below invoice ($7k below MSRP... on a Focus); BUT, the dealer got reimbursed for nearly all of it so it was like they sold it for sticker! With almost no work involved as I came in researched and knowing what I want. So they were happy to oblige any request! LOL. Gotta love a win/win. (In this case, Ford reimburses dealers for family/friend discount pricing, and Ford will reimburse them for all of the rebates and incentives which are manufacturer rebates/incentives! So Ford will cut them a check for almost all of that $7k below MSRP!)
 
I am not sure they get reimbursements for car prep (though they may, I don't know).

I would think their reimbursements are there aside from what they charge clients extra (college grad incentives, manufacturer rebates and etc, all those come direct from manufacturer to dealer under specific conditions).

In your case Ford created the employee family/friend rebate so that dealers would honor the deal Ford offered it's workers. So, it tells dealer "give this car to so and so at so and so price and don't worry about your profits, we will reimburse it for you".

In most cases (where there are no promotional rebates from factory), the dealer may get as little as few hundred dollars of a kick back from manufacturer when they sell the car at or below invoice.

Each case is obviously different, but that's my understanding of how it generally works.

The two examples I cited , if there was any factory kickback I don't think it came from prepping my car. If they wanted some extra money for car wash they would have to add to my purchase contract (or so I think). And, the second example I cited excludes the possibility of any hidden reimbursement for removing adhesives and prepping the car, because dealer actually wanted to make me think that he did what I wanted (didn't touch the car). So, why would he do that if he needed a pretext to get paid? :buffing:


P.S. Aside from special qualifying offers (like the one you had or college grad offers or other special , promotional rebates) , the next best thing is to go to Edmunds.com, get 5+ offers from local dealers , print the TMV price (along with invoice) and talk to their internet sales reps, asking who will beat the best price you have got so far.
Usually you will easily get TMV (sometimes TMV is below invoice and you should be able to get that as well, all you need is to show the printouts and get the dealer offers in writing and then , if needed, make them compete against each other and lower bids to earn your business). If you take little more time you can get even better deals.

Sometimes you will have to shop different brands/models.
I started out looking at Mercedes CLA and C class. Current C class is being discontinued this year (2015 C is a different car) and they created some crazy hype around CLA, refusing to negotiate and showing me a sticker price of loaded C class. Plus, Mercedes charges you between $260 and $900 for oil changes every 10K miles, calling it "service A" and "service B".Yuck!!

Lexus was more reasonable and tried hard to make a deal on IS250 or RX350 models. I could get it below invoice but in the end decided to go with Acura TSX.
It's a great car, has great value (a lot of things that are optional even in C class are standard in TSX), it's practical and cost efficient.
Because there is no hype around it and also due to high factory rebates, it was easy to get incredibly good deal on it, much below invoice. But it took me more time than if I had "internet price" locked and walked in just to sign a ready contract.
The only downside was that dealer prepped it and now I have to spend a day removing those swirlmarks and perfecting the paint :doh::doh::doh:

You did great on that Ford, btw :props: I don't know what the invoice on it was, but 7K below MSRP is pretty good IMO.
 
I am not sure they get reimbursements for car prep (though they may, I don't know).

I would think their reimbursements are there aside from what they charge clients extra (college grad incentives, manufacturer rebates and etc, all those come direct from manufacturer to dealer under specific conditions).

In your case Ford created the employee family/friend rebate so that dealers would honor the deal Ford offered it's workers. So, it tells dealer "give this car to so and so at so and so price and don't worry about your profits, we will reimburse it for you".

In most cases (where there are no promotional rebates from factory), the dealer may get as little as few hundred dollars of a kick back from manufacturer when they sell the car at or below invoice.

Each case is obviously different, but that's my understanding of how it generally works.

The two examples I cited , if there was any factory kickback I don't think it came from prepping my car. If they wanted some extra money for car wash they would have to add to my purchase contract (or so I think). And, the second example I cited excludes the possibility of any hidden reimbursement for removing adhesives and prepping the car, because dealer actually wanted to make me think that he did what I wanted (didn't touch the car). So, why would he do that if he needed a pretext to get paid? :buffing:


P.S. Aside from special qualifying offers (like the one you had or college grad offers or other special , promotional rebates) , the next best thing is to go to Edmunds.com, get 5+ offers from local dealers , print the TMV price (along with invoice) and talk to their internet sales reps, asking who will beat the best price you have got so far.
Usually you will easily get TMV (sometimes TMV is below invoice and you should be able to get that as well, all you need is to show the printouts and get the dealer offers in writing and then , if needed, make them compete against each other and lower bids to earn your business). If you take little more time you can get even better deals.

Sometimes you will have to shop different brands/models.
I started out looking at Mercedes CLA and C class. Current C class is being discontinued this year (2015 C is a different car) and they created some crazy hype around CLA, refusing to negotiate and showing me a sticker price of loaded C class. Plus, Mercedes charges you between $260 and $900 for oil changes every 10K miles, calling it "service A" and "service B".Yuck!!

Lexus was more reasonable and tried hard to make a deal on IS250 or RX350 models. I could get it below invoice but in the end decided to go with Acura TSX.
It's a great car, has great value (a lot of things that are optional even in C class are standard in TSX), it's practical and cost efficient.
Because there is no hype around it and also due to high factory rebates, it was easy to get incredibly good deal on it, much below invoice. But it took me more time than if I had "internet price" locked and walked in just to sign a ready contract.
The only downside was that dealer prepped it and now I have to spend a day removing those swirlmarks and perfecting the paint :doh::doh::doh:

You did great on that Ford, btw :props: I don't know what the invoice on it was, but 7K below MSRP is pretty good IMO.

I'm a pretty good negotiator (Though this wasn't negotiation, this was just timing, research, and lining things up).

MSRP was right around $22.6k, with options. Dealer invoice was I believe $19,500 (They are required to show you the actual invoice when you buy with the friends/family plan), or therabouts. I'll pay $16,400 OTD when she comes in. Not too shabby for a middle-of-the-road compact sedan.

There are lots of tricks to getting good deals. For example, most dealers have to pay a 'lot fee' on cars. Most window stickers have a build date listed. Looking for cars that have been on the lot for a few months is a good tactic, as it's costing them money. Model year leftovers is a great one too.

Bought my wifes bike that way. MSRP $10,200. Listed for $8,999 because it was a 2011, in 2012, shortly before the 2013's were slated to hit the floors (as in a week before). I offered $5,000 on the bike. They said that was crazy and they were already losing money on the bike. I asked them what they thought it'd sell for when someone sees 2013 model years on the floor; and IF it would even sell? They said no and I walked away (No harm, no foul, it's just business). To be perfectly honest it was my wifes first bike and who knows, she might not like riding her own. Went to look used, and wouldn't ya know it, I got a phone call. "Can you do $7,000?" "No, I can do $5,000". Well we hemmed and hawwed and landed at $6,000. Then they handed me the paperwork, and suddenly fees had ballooned it to $7,500. I pointed at the fees and said "That wasn't our deal". Hemmed and hawwed again, and I was out the door for $6,000 on a brand new motorcycle. (Okay, $6007.50, they said they couldn't wave the temp tag fee, and I wasn't gonna argue on that one).

Matter of fact last time I checked the USED book value it was still around $7,800! LOL. She may ride it for a couple of years and sell it for more than we paid... NEW!

Never hurts to make the offer. It's a silly game but you might as well play it. No reason to throw away money. I always shop multiple dealers, too, and as a general rule I almost never buy the same day I shop. Eager buyers don't get deals. Amazing what you can get price wise when you return the next day and tell them you are just 'narrowing down your choices'.

The choice of vehicle matters too. A beautiful example is the Ford GT. MSRP of around $140k, good LUCK finding one used for less than $250k now. Because of the limited run and high demand the price is insane. I also understand that few people got it for anything close to MSRP. I know a St.Louis area dealer reportedly sold one new for $350k, they apparently had one of the last brand-new ones left.

However, there are extremely competitive markets out there. Like, for example, mid-sized sedans and even certain subcompacts now that they are no longer el-cheap-o cars (Many subcompacts now have everything the bigger cars have, just smaller and better fuel mileage). For example, one of the incentives I was able to score on my Focus was probably in response to Focus sales slipping and being in danger of knocked out of the #1 spot by a competitor. THOSE are the cars you get deals in. Super in demand cars, not so much.

Harley-Davidson motorcycles, for example, sell on average ABOVE MSRP. Each year, Harley's sales numbers reveal that the global average of all of their bike sales is ABOVE MSRP. A combination of add-ons, and a combination of being a company with a loyal cult-like following that will proudly pay well above sticker just for the bragging rights of 'supporting the MoCo'. (Trust me, I know guys like this). The Harley dealers generally won't budge on price on anything but low end entry level models, because someone, somewhere, will strut in there and pay $5k over sticker for it by the time all is said and done; and ride home feeling all warm and fuzzy about owning a Harley-Davidson. The incredibly, insanely competitive Japanese motorcycle market though? Polar opposite. If you buy a Japanese cruiser for anywhere near sticker, you're doing something wrong. I know a guy who just got a Vulcan Voyager (MSRP around 21k) for $15.5k, and that sort of stuff is typical. The manufacturers are increasingly competitive.

Financing is another way the competition is evident. Harley-Davidson's LOWEST, LOWEST.... LOOOWWESSSTT financing term through their financing is 9.49%. That's AWFUL, even for a motorcycle. Guys are routinely buying these things at 13 and 14%. Disgraceful! I was just up at the dealer the other day getting some new gloves and saw Yamaha had 0% for 5 years AND $1,000 cash back if you finance through them going. Kawasaki does the same thing from time to time, and Honda does every summer.
 
I used pinnacle ultrafine clay

The Pinnacle Ultrafine is about as fine or non-aggressive as you can get. If the clay and the claying process is in fact the root cause of the scratches or marring in the paint then this would be an indicator of paint that is on the soft side and ANY mechanical type of decontamination will likely scratch the paint.


Very few can clay an entire vehicles without inflicting some type of marring or fine scratches. It all depends on how careful you work, how much clay lube you use, grade of clay etc.

The above describes me. I've clayed cars and left scratches in the paint and I'm real careful. I don't think it's always a "person problem" I think the problem is that clear coat paints are scratch-sensitive, this means they scratch EASILY. Period.

And because the clear layer of paint is over the top of a colored layer of paint, the scratches show up EASY to your eyes. Except for light colors. With light colors the scratches are still there it's just you can't see them, at least not easily.

This is why white and silver metallic paint are best for people that don't care about the finish quality of their car and don't want to take up detailing as a hobby.


A simple polish once done claying, should remove the marring/scratches.

Exactly and to take this idea even further, at this stage of the game in life I personally won't use clay or Nanoskin products or ANYTHING on someone's paint unless I'm already planning on doing at least ONE MACHINE POLISHING STEP.

I recommend this practice to others. In fact I recommend this strongly to others and also state this in my how-to book The Complete Guide to a Show Car Shine and in my new how-to ibook book How to use Detailing Clay.


Pinnacle ultra poly clay and the pinnacle clay lubricant

This is a good choice. You really can't get a better ultra fine grade clay. If you look through all of the write-ups for the show cars we detail here at Autogeek you'll see that for almost all of them we use this clay.

Like this little gem....

1939 Lincoln Zephyr - Swirls Removed - Modeled by Nicole



Frank had never clayed before, while he was here I autographed a copy of my how-to book for him and showed him pages 42-47 that go over everything you need to know to correctly use detailing clay.

1939LincolnZephyr027.jpg




1939LincolnZephyr030.jpg


1939LincolnZephyr031.jpg



1939LincolnZephyr066.jpg


And if you click on the link I included above you'll see that we did machine polish the paint after we clayed the paint.

It's a good practice.


wow now i am afraid to clay bar my new Corvette . it is carbon blast color .

You shouldn't be afraid to touch your own car. You should get head knowledge however before you touch your car and that's what you're getting by being an active member of this forum.

Just approach car detailing as a process and if after you feel the paint on your car and it has a texture of little bumps, then plan on claying AND machine polishing before sealing the paint.



wow, I just bought the same exact products (pinnacle ultra poly clay and pinnacle clay lubricant 16oz) and I was planning to clay my brand new BMW M3 when I stumbled on this thread !

Needless to say those pinnacle products will not be going anywhere close to my car now.

And that's your choice but again... the Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay is one of the highest quality ULTRA FINE grades of clay you can get. I'm not sure you can get anything finer and if you did it would be so fine that it would probably be ineffective.

The clay isn't really the problem it's the paint. See what I wrote about scratch-sensitive above.

If you do the Baggie Test and your paint is contaminated, then you need to clay the paint or somehow mechanically decontaminate it and from my own experience, any mechanical form of decontaminating paint is going to mar the scratch-sensitive paints that car manufactures, that includes BMW choose to use to coat over their cars body panels.

You can write a letter to BMW or Ford or any car manufacturer and ask them to start using paints that can be clayed without being scratched and lets hope you get a reply where they say "thank you", we didn't know we were putting paint on our cars that scratches easily, we'll change that starting today"

But I don't think that's going to happen. So you have to deal with the paint BMW give you and if it's contaminated with Above Surface Bonded Contaminants, that is contaminants that don't wash off due to the bond between them and your car's paint then you have two options.

Leave the contaminants on the car and wax over them.

Remove the contaminants using some mechanical means.

Your choice. I'm just hear to help you do the second one safely and that means in my experienced opinion to plan on doing at least one machine polishing step after you mechanically decontaminate paint. Even the simplest, easiest to learn how to use and master tool, the Porter Cable 7424XP with 5.5" thin pads and a quality polish will remove any claying induced marring and to be honest, it will in most cases maximize the gloss, clarity and smoothness of the paint more than if you don't machine polish.

Here's an article I wrote about the beneifts of claying, each person can make up their own mind...


Mike Phillips said:
The 4 primary benefits of using detailing clay to clay paint


Using detailing clay to clay your car's paint, or your customer's car's paint will,
1: Claying safely removes Above Surface Bonded Contaminants

2: Claying paint enable your choice of wax or paint sealant to better bond or adhere to the paint.

3: Claying paint restores a silky, smooth, clean surface.

4: Claying paint makes polishing easier, more effective and safer.
Lets take a little deeper look at these benefits...



1: Claying safely removes Above Surface Bonded Contaminants
Over time, if your car is parked outside for any length of time during each day then any dirt or air-borne contaminants that land on the paint will tend to bond to the paint if they are not removed in a timely manner. Once they bond to the paint some of them won't come off just from normal washing. This is where detailing clay comes into the picture.

Detailing clay uses special abrasives that have the ability to basically sand-off any contaminants sitting on top of the surface without installing scratches into your car's paint at the same time. I

n the old days, people would use coarse rubbing compounds to remove above surface bonded contaminants and while these types of products would work they would also,

  • Instill scratches into the paint
  • Remove perfectly good paint
That's two negative things you don't want to do your car's precious clear layer of paint.




2: Claying paint enable your choice of wax or paint sealant to better bond or adhere to the paint.

Claying paint restores a clean surface so a coating of wax or paint sealant can maximize the bond between the paint and the protection ingredients. This helps to insure the wax or paint sealant coating will last a long time and thus protect a long time, and this is something all people want out of their choice of car wax or paint sealant.

The number one question I hear people ask on the topic detailing usually goes like this,
"How long will brand X Car Wax last?"
And the technically correct answer is,
"It depends upon how well the surface is prepared to accept the wax"
You see, a good chemist will create a car wax or paint sealant formulation to bond or adhere to car paint, not a layer of dirt. When contaminants build-up over the surface they create a layer or film of gunk, a mixture of whatever is floating around in the air where you live and park your car. The protection ingredients cannot get to the paint until this layer of contaminants is first removed.

If above surface, air-borne contaminants are present on the paint when a wax or paint sealant is applied, the wax or paint sealant will not last very long because it won't be able to bond very well to the top coating of the actual paint itself.


3: Claying paint restores a silky, smooth, clean surface
I think we can all agree that a great looking paint job is a glossy looking paint job and gloss comes from a smooth surface.

When air-borne contaminants build-up on your car's finish they create an irregular surface or texture that feels rough or bumpy to the touch. This un-even, bumpy surface due to above surface bonded contaminants reduces gloss. Claying your car's paint will remove the contaminants, this restores a smooth surface and this in return restores a high gloss finish

If you're a detailer, claying restores smoothness and this shows up to your customer's eyes as gloss and makes for happy customers.



4: Claying paint makes polishing easier, more effective and safer
In the context of this section, when we say polishing, we mean abrading the paint to remove below surface defects and/or refine the existing finish to a higher level.


  • By removing any above surface bonded contaminants first, you enable your polish and pad to immediately go to work on the paint with nothing on the surface in the way.
  • You make the polishing action smoother as your polish and pad will move over the surface easier with less potential for hopping or grabbing.
  • You reduce the potential for accidental marring of the paint during the buffing process since there are not contaminants that can come loose and become trapped between the pad and the paint.

The good news...
Using detailing clay to clay paint is fast and easy and for your time-investment it provides the best bang for the buck when doing production detailing. Your average customer bringing you a daily driver wants you to do the dirty work for them so they don't have to do it. They see value in paying you for your time and energy to clean and maintain their vehicle so their time is freed up for what they perceive to be a more valuable use of their time. This could be working at their job, spending time with their family or fill-in-the-blank.

As a professional detailer, you want to do top-notch work while maximizing your profits and using detailing clay to clay your customer's car creates dramatic end-results that your customer will notice and this will help you to retain their business while getting valuable referrals.

Claying gives your customer what they want even if they don't know what they want and the big picture visual results are a clean, shiny car that resembles the car when they first bought it and this makes for a happy car owner and by extension... a happy customer.

The above three physical results are the primary benefits or values created by claying paint to remove above surface bonded contaminants.




I was not planning to polish my new car and certainly do not want having to polish as a result of clay marring. I am taking claying out of my plans for my new car now and I will wax directly after drying the car.

For some people this is the best option. Consider using a light chemcial cleaner/wax first to remove any road film so you don't simply seal the road film or other contaminants or other previosuly applied product onto the paint with a finishing wax, finishing sealant or coating.

Road Film - If you drive your car in the rain your car has road film



I bet your car is already scratched and swirled from the dealership.

I also bet your car has contamination on it and it needs to be clayed.

It's normal to have to clay and polish a brand new car.


I agree. Just to note, Scott is a former student who has attended my Detailing Boot Camp Class and is not only a very good detailer but a pretty good writer too...

Here's a BLACK 2012 Camaro Convertible and at the time we put it through our show car polishing process here at Autogeek it only had

2000 miles on it


Video & Pictures: 2012 Black Camaro Convertible - Blackfire Show Car Makeover!


And this is off a BRAND NEW CAR?
If you watched the Live Broadcast, you saw me clay most, not all but most of JUST the hood. Keep in mind this Camaro has only 2000 miles on it since purchased new. Look at all the brown crud that came off the hood using Blackfire Detailing Clay.


Where has this car been since rolling out of the assembly plant?
Anyone want to guess what the brown stuff is?

2012CamaroFin020.jpg




Here's an after shot, if you click the link I included above you can see the before pictures plus watch a LIVE BROADCAST with Todd Helme and I walking your through all the steps you need to do to take a trashed black Camaro and turn it into a true show car. (This will apply to any car, even a Hyundai)


2012CamaroFin007.jpg








Don't clay unless you plan on Polishing and waxing after as a general rule.

And or use an AIO product after.

Whatever the claying process might leave behind the polish and or AIO product will remove it.

As others have said on a new car....

There will be contaminates...... And you can bet money on it....

It will need to be clayed, polished and either a wax or sealant applied.

I agree. Just to note, for those that might know, an AIO is the same thing as a Cleaner/Wax. Differnent words, same type of product. Most "Consumer" retail waxes are cleaner/waxes. I explain why here,



The Difference Between a Cleaner/Wax and a Finishing Wax
Subtitle: How To Choose The Right Wax or Paint Sealant for your Detailing Project




Pinnacle stuff is very high quality. It's not the products.

It's likely the technique or the paint.

Thank you for your witness...



That's why I dumped clay - a nanoskin fine speedy prep towel and I've never marred anything since...

I see marring with any mechanical means of decontaminating paint, at some point, at some time in some place. It's really easy to see on black paint and if it's happening on a clear coated black finish it's happening on any clear coat finish it's just on lighter colored cars you're eyes can't see it.

At least this is my experience and I love the Nanoskin Autoscrub Towels and the Speedy Prep Towels. Both are great products.

My favorite way to deconaminate paint is using the Nanoskin Autoscrub pads on a Porter Cable. If you click this link you'll see I used this approach on the Ceramiclear finish Mercedes-Benz just last weekend and then did ONE MACHIEN POLISHING STEP afterwards.

Black Label Diamond Paint Coating on a 2012 Mercedes-Benz E350



Here are the products and processes used in order of listing...

2012_Mercedes_Benz_000.jpg



Detailer's Waterless Autowash - Clean car body panels, glass and wheels.

Detailer's Universal Clay Lube with Nanoskin Autoscrub Medium Grade Pad on Porter Cable - Decontaminate paint to remove above surface bonded contaminants.

Rupes Duetto 12 and Mini 12 with Rupes Keramik Gloss Fine Cut Polish and Rupes Yellow Foam Polishing Pads to remove any swirls, scratches, marring or other paint blemishes and create a perfectly smooth and clear surface to the Ceramiclear finish.

Pinnacle Black Label Surface Cleansing Polish - To gently remove any polishing oils or other substances that could potentially interfere with the bonding of the Black Label Diamond Paint Coating.

Pinnacle Black Label Diamond Paint Coating - To seal and protect the paint and create a slick, glassy crystal clear finish.

Pinnacle Black Label Glass Coating - Seal the glass and create a hydrophobic surface.


After picture

2012_Mercedes_Benz_020.jpg





Like I said, I do not want to have to follow with polishing on a new car. Therefore I will not clay.


I have bought P2S concours carnauba wax.

The P21S is a "Finishing Wax" or a "Show Car Wax", this means it has no cleaners or any ingredients indended to clean or abrade the paint.

This is the perfect wax for paint that is clean, clear and smooth with no contaminants or embedded dirt or stains. If the paint is less than perfect, finishing waxes, or finishing sealants act to seal the dirt onto the paint.

The Baggie Test - How to inspect for above surface bonded contaminants




Why put sealant on the clearcoat ? I know artificial agents last longer than carnauba wax. But as long as I apply P2S wax regularly (every 4-5 weeks) I'd rather just keep it simple with just the wax.

I agree. While I like coatings, I work on a lot of streetrods, classics and muscle cars and these cars tend to be owned by older guys and I find with older guys the best approach if you want them to actively maintain the hard work done to their paitn is to set them up with a traditional Carnauba Paste Wax.

And in fact, most of my buddies and customers go on to do pretty good with a traditional Carnauba Paste Wax which is also a "Finishing Wax" or "Show Car Wax".

Here's a great example...

1970 440 Cuda - Part 2 - Show Car Prep




1970_440_Cuda_015.jpg



On display just a few weeks ago at the 26th Annual Mopars with Big Daddy Don Garlits Car Show.
1970_Cuda_440_Big_Daddy_Don_Garlits.jpg


And here's the man himself, Big Daddy Don Garlits handing Tommy a trophy that's about 2 FEET TALL for a first place win with his 1970 Cuda, paint polished to perfection at Autogeek.

Don_Garlits_Tommy_First_Place_Trophy.jpg








Clearcoat is just clear paint..... Nothing more than that...


Exactly. In my how to book I do my best to explain this in the first chapter because so many people have been told by cars sales men and women that,

"This car has a clear coat! You never have to wax it!"



:laughing:





As I unfortunately found out on my black Porsche 911, yes clay can mar the paint. At the time, I was using the Meguiar's OTC clay.

I have since tried the Sonus clay and found no marring. It was between that and the Pinnacle and I found one review that said the Sonus was the most gentle clay so I went with that.

Thanks for your research, (getting head knowledge), and then adding to the discussion...



Good news, the marring should come out very easily with a fine finishing polish. If your paint is so soft that clay causes marring, you're a great candidate for a coating - that's what I did. There are great ones out there and they will all provide you with a level of scratch resistance greatest than your current clear.

More head knowledge on display...

See how it helps to be on a forum like this and self-educate? The information is here... you just need to get it into your Knower...



This is an old thread

No such thing as an old thread... I can dig upu threads from at least 2002 on vBulletin discussion forum, (the year this software went commercial), and they all have information that is just as helpful and often times just as accurate today as when the info was posted.

I have an article on this topic...

Discussion Forums - A relatively "new" invention...



and OP probably had his answer already, but my first thought was "why clay a brand new truck"?

See the link I included above about the brand new Camaro and I can dig up even more write-ups showing brand new cars that need to be clayed.

Like the Live Broadcast we did last Thursday for a 2013 Dodge Charger with only 6000 miles on it...


Pictures: 2013 Dodge Charger - Black Label Diamond Paint Coating- New Rupes Polishers - Pictures & Video

Here you go... Post #18

New Cars Need to be Clayed with Detailing Clay

Even though this car only had 6000 miles on it there were already bonded contaminants that we removed using Pinnacle Ultra Poly Detailing Clay.

Dirty_Clay_From_New_Car_002.jpg



Dirty_Clay_From_New_Car_003.jpg



Pinnacle Ultra Poly Clay is an ultra fine grade clay and a good choice for new cars that only have light contamination.


:dblthumb2:
 
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