Going from DA to rotary. Any safe approach ?

[DaC]

So, I'm thinking about trying rotaries, but I'm pretty afraid of it.

Will initially using a black pad with something like PO85RD, for jeweling only be safer as training ? Or a rotary is aggressive by nature and even with a gentle combo like that on low rpm I can get in trouble pretty fast ?

 

[cleanmycorolla]

All i would wager is to keep that rotary moving! dont let it stop!

 

[DaC]

All i would wager is to keep that rotary moving! dont let it stop!

What about pressure compared to DA ??

And when buffing accidentally edges, will it eat edges too fast ? Because a DA usually won't do much harm to edges...

Will the combo I've mentioned, make the paint too hot if I move slowly ?

 

[AutowerxDetailing]

So, I'm thinking about trying rotaries, but I'm pretty afraid of it.

Will initially using a black pad with something like PO85RD, for jeweling only be safer as training ? Or a rotary is aggressive by nature and even with a gentle combo like that on low rpm I can get in trouble pretty fast ?

If you are comfortable using a DA bumping up to a rotary isn't such a huge step. They feel a little different. You have to be much more careful, obviously, since the forced rotation can burn through paint pretty quick. Using a soft pad and an ultra finishing polish would be a great way to get a feel for a rotary tool IMO.

An even better way to learn would be to find a junker to polish out or get a test panel to play around with. :dblthumb2:

 

[Bates Detailing]

IMO it is a major difference - but that shouldn't stray anyone away from utilizing both tools. To expand detailing skills and progress in knowledge a detailer should know how to use a rotary. It is a necessity to acquire top notch results with certain surfaces such as gelcoat. On clears, DA's are sufficient and produce great results but are much more time consuming. We use both tools daily and both are necessity IMO to produce top quality work. Keep the rotary moving, use good technique, and keep the speeds low at first till you get comfortable, and you should be just fine man :dblthumb2:

 

[style]

So, I'm thinking about trying rotaries, but I'm pretty afraid of it.

Will initially using a black pad with something like PO85RD, for jeweling only be safer as training ? Or a rotary is aggressive by nature and even with a gentle combo like that on low rpm I can get in trouble pretty fast ?

just start out slow,dont press down let the weight of the machine do most of the work on top panels then eventually light to moderate pressure with the pad running off any edges not against them ...

 

[Rsurfer]

Keep it movin with a little dash of common sense and you'll be fine.

 

[DaC]

If you are comfortable using a DA bumping up to a rotary isn't such a huge step. They feel a little different. You have to be much more careful, obviously, since the forced rotation can burn through paint pretty quick. Using a soft pad and an ultra finishing polish would be a great way to get a feel for a rotary tool IMO.

An even better way to learn would be to find a junker to polish out or get a test panel to play around with. :dblthumb2:

IMO it is a major difference - but that shouldn't stray anyone away from utilizing both tools. To expand detailing skills and progress in knowledge a detailer should know how to use a rotary. It is a necessity to acquire top notch results with certain surfaces such as gelcoat. On clears, DA's are sufficient and produce great results but are much more time consuming. We use both tools daily and both are necessity IMO to produce top quality work. Keep the rotary moving, use good technique, and keep the speeds low at first till you get comfortable, and you should be just fine man :dblthumb2:

just start out slow,dont press down let the weight of the machine do most of the work on top panels then eventually light to moderate pressure with the pad running off any edges not against them ...

Thank you for these great inputs guys...

Another question.....

Things that won't get you in trouble with a DA but will with a rotary, that you shouldn't do ??

 

[Rsurfer]

Thank you for these great inputs guys...

Another question.....

Things that won't get you in trouble with a DA but will with a rotary, that you shouldn't do ??

Keep it movin and stay away from edges..tape to be safe.

 

[davidc]

What about pressure compared to DA ??

And when buffing accidentally edges, will it eat edges too fast ? Because a DA usually won't do much harm to edges...

Will the combo I've mentioned, make the paint too hot if I move slowly ?

When approaching an edge be sure to buff out not in to the edge. The pad touching the paint should be rotating away from the edge and do not spend a lot of time there as that will be the thinnest part of the paint, a fast swipe in that area is usually all an edge needs. I have done it that way for 20 years and haven't had a burn thru yet.

Dave

 

[DaC]

Keep it movin and stay away from edges..tape to be safe.

Thank you for the tip rops:

When approaching an edge be sure to buff out not in to the edge. The pad touching the paint should be rotating away from the edge and do not spend a lot of time there as that will be the thinnest part of the paint, a fast swipe in that area is usually all an edge needs. I have done it that way for 20 years and haven't had a burn thru yet.

Dave

I don't think I got it very well.....

Do you mean I should lift the side of the pad in contact with the edge ?

Or it has to do with rotation and machine position relative to the edge ?

 

[davidc]

Thank you for the tip rops:



I don't think I got it very well.....

Do you mean I should lift the side of the pad in contact with the edge ?

Or it has to do with rotation and machine position relative to the edge ?

I tilt the buffer so that the pad touching the paint is rotating away from the edge and the part of the pad rotating into the edge is in the air.

Dave

 

[DaC]

I tilt the buffer so that the pad touching the paint is rotating away from the edge and the part of the pad rotating into the edge is in the air.

Dave

Got it now!! Thank you Dave! This will be very useful. :dblthumb2:

I assume it's just a very light tilt, right ?

 

[john b]

If you are comfortable using a DA bumping up to a rotary isn't such a huge step. They feel a little different. You have to be much more careful, obviously, since the forced rotation can burn through paint pretty quick. Using a soft pad and an ultra finishing polish would be a great way to get a feel for a rotary tool IMO.

An even better way to learn would be to find a junker to polish out or get a test panel to play around with. :dblthumb2:

that is exactly what i am doing these days.goin to get junk panels to burn through

 

[davidc]

Got it now!! Thank you Dave! This will be very useful. :dblthumb2:

I assume it's just a very light tilt, right ?

Yeah it's not much but for starters you may tilt further until you get the hang of it. Remember what others have stated to keep the buffer moving especially if using foam pads since they seem to heat up a lot faster than wool which I learned on, foam was not around at that time.

Dave

 

[DaC]

What about applied pressure ? Less than with a DA ? The machine weight alone is enough ?

 

[DaveT435]

This may help

Circular / Rotary Polishing Guide: remove swirls, scratches, & oxidation with a rotary polisher. foam pads, backing plate, lake country, professional,

 

[davidc]

What about applied pressure ? Less than with a DA ? The machine weight alone is enough ?

Let the pad do the work. The only time I have done pressure is heavy oxidation. Just controlling the rotary and direction is usually enough. You learn as you go, just go easy at first and you will pick it up.

Dave

 

[DaC]

This may help

Circular / Rotary Polishing Guide: remove swirls, scratches, & oxidation with a rotary polisher. foam pads, backing plate, lake country, professional,

Thank you for the link! :xyxthumbs:

Let the pad do the work. The only time I have done pressure is heavy oxidation. Just controlling the rotary and direction is usually enough. You learn as you go, just go easy at first and you will pick it up.

Dave

Alright... I think I'm getting it....

what about pad size ? 5.5 ? 6.5 ?
What would be the downside of using 7.5 or bigger pads ?

 

[davidc]

Thank you for the link! :xyxthumbs:



Alright... I think I'm getting it....

what about pad size ? 5.5 ? 6.5 ?
What would be the downside of using 7.5 or bigger pads ?

6" is usually easier to handle especially just starting. I have both 8 and 6 but I prefer the 6 unless I am doing a hood,RV etc., something large.

Dave