Machine polishing paint - It's not that hard and with modern dual action polishers it's real safe!

M

Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.

Active member
Joined
Dec 5, 2022
Messages
51,004
Reaction score
7
Machine polishing paint - It's not that hard and with modern dual action polishers it's real safe!


Note these people are not just "learning" on daily drivers aka new cars, they're learning on someone's "toys" or Special Interest Vehicles. More risk for me, more fun for them...



In the below live broadcast I show a 15 year old boy how to machine polish

Live Broadcast Video - 1965 Plymouth Valiant - Extreme Makeover

1965Plymouth034.jpg





And in this one I show a 21 year old girl how to machine polish

Video & Pictures: 1965 Fastback Mustang - Gtechniq EXO Show Car Makeover!

Trista working with the rest of the team to machine polish this 1965 Mustang Fastback 2+2
TristaBuffingFortheFirstTime001.jpg



Trista removing swirls on a show car...
TristaBuffingFortheFirstTime002.jpg




And in this one I show a 80 year old man how to machine polish for the first time...

Video and Pictures - Two 1967 Camaro's - Show Car Makeovers!


CamaroNight001.jpg




And in this shot here's a young couple, probably in their mid-20's learning how to machine polish for the first time.

CamaroNight002.jpg








Here's the point.



In this thread you see 5 people ranging from very young to very old and both girls and guys and they all have one thing in common.

They are MACHINE POLISHING


And if they can do it on these streetrods and muscle cars YOU can do it on your mundane daily driver. All you have to do is simply put away your fears of burning the paint or putting swirls into the paint because as long as you use the tools, pads and chemicals we sell on Autogeek.com and I show here on the forum you're not going to cause any harm to your car's paint.

In fact - you're going to get better results FASTER and you're going to kick yourself for not making the change years ago.




:)
 
Re: It's not that hard...

Very good thread Mike. I love the wide ranging demographic you used as examples. I suppose sometimes I just get discouraged, because sometimes no matter how obsessively I try to keep things "medically clean" and even in air tight containers, and use the best of the best most expensive products... I still end up somehow putting scratches into the paint, or not seeing a dramatic enough change for the better to merit all of that time and those different steps/product stages.

I thoughtfully and honestly explain that to my clients though, and nearly all of my business thus far has all been hand applied services, and my clients are in shock-and-awe when they pick their vehicles up... but I know they would be breathless if I could truly master the art of buffing. I suppose a large part of the reason I don't do it more often, is because I'm such an exaggerated perfectionist, it would be bordering impossible to leave me with a content feeling on a job well done.
 
Re: It's not that hard...

^^ Sorry had to do it, I'm immature :)

Yup, taking that initial plunge is hard, but once you start, you CAN'T STOP!
 
Re: It's not that hard...

Dynamic_Detailing said:
I thoughtfully and honestly explain that to my clients though, and nearly all of my business thus far has all been hand applied services, and my clients are in shock-and-awe when they pick their vehicles up...
Click to expand...


Actually you can get really good results working by hand it's just the time and labor issue.


Also just to note, most of the car projects we do here at Autogeek, like all the Extreme Makeovers I did for Meguiar's are multi-step procedures and that's because I tend to gravitate towards special interest cars.

That said, most detailers should be doing one-step procedures, that is after washing and removing any above surface bonded contaminants, most detailers should be using a one-step cleaner wax. That's the topic of this article I wrote here,

A few tips on starting a part-time detailing business
Match your services to your customer



And there's NOTHING wrong with doing one-steps, in fact it's the right thing to do for must your customers and for most cases it will be more profitable.


:)
 
Re: It's not that hard...

Mike,

As a n00b I appreciate posts like this. I'm not a stupid guy and I am good with my hands and have a solid technical background---but that still doesn't always mean I can jump right into a project without fear.

Most things I can because the risk is low, but when it comes to opening up the possibility of screwing up a brand new car's paint, I tend to be a little more shy.

So yeah, thanks for the confidence inspiration.

And if all else fails, I will get a 21 year old girl to do the work while I sit back with a glass of scotch.
 
Re: It's not that hard...

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
Actually you can get really good results working by hand it's just the time and labor issue.

That said, most detailers should be doing one-step procedures, that is after washing and removing any above surface bonded contaminants, most detailers should be using a one-step cleaner wax.

A few tips on starting a part-time detailing business
Match your services to your customer
Click to expand...

Thanks, AS ALWAYS, for your rock solid advice Mike. Hand application is nice in a way, due to fact I have complete control over, which I have yet to fully develop with a DA/Rotary. When you say "one step" cleaner-wax, you're referring once again to hand application, correct? You are absolutely right if so, because most clients' vehicles are just in bad shape and need a little revitalization, much more than any carnauba could EVER accomplish.

*What are your thoughts on a one-step polish applied with my Flex 3401, and an example of a great specific product that can aptly tackle most any middle-of-the-road average client vehicle in good to fair shape just in need for a pick-me-up? I bought the 3-step Menzerna compound/polishes, and found them to be very, very mild. Sure, some of the problem could be user-error, but with pressure, a semi-aggressive foam pad, and slow passes... I still didn't notice much (or any) or a measurable or appreciable difference.
 
Re: It's not that hard...

Hello Mike, Hoping SEMA wasn't too taxing, and you're getting back to a little relaxation, and normality with your life.

I did start a thread maybe a week ago, titled something like "The human hand".

I thank you kindly for so many great tutorials, advice, tips, and all the reviews about the vast myriad of products, that IMO are just mind boggling.

I notice you will often demonstrate products on flat panels, due to simplicity, and perhaps as well as some basic principals, and techniques.

But as we all know, virtually no vehicle ever made, even the VW Thing is a simple matter of polishing-waxing this flat panel, then going onto the next flat panel.

There's nooks, there's crannies, there's dips, there's grooves, there's tight spots, there's mirrors, there's gas tank lids, there's sill steps, rocker panels, there's edges, door jambs, license plate pockets, the list goes on and on, and I know we all face these difficult areas on each and every vehicle.

I know from experience, we stay away from such areas with things like Rotary Polishers, and highly abrasive compounds, and Polishes.

But, the mastery, is to of course make these difficult areas that must evidently have to be done by hand, and the mastery is getting those areas to equally match other easy areas that can be quickly, and less effortlessly be done by machine.

So of course I can gather-understand the need of matching the identical products in use at the time, that if you're using let's for say Meggy's 205 at the time, you may wish to logically use the same 205 to reach these hard to get areas.

The point, and advice I am trying to get to Mike with this post, is what recommendations, and advice can you give to addressing these areas?

Is there any right method to such hand processes? Straight lines in some areas, small circular movements in others? Am I correct that the hand eye coordination is something that must be slowly dealt with, and executed like one playing a Guitar?

To slowly go, a little at first, then continue, to use the eye, to use small baby steps, do a little, stop, inspect, start again, check, etc etc?

Are there any vids that you have done to address, and showcase such manual techniques, and how one can get proper final results?

As I close, thank you Mike! Mark
 
Re: It's not that hard...

MarkD51 said:
I notice you will often demonstrate products on flat panels, due to simplicity, and perhaps as well as some basic principals, and techniques.
Click to expand...


You can think of a flat hood or trunk lid to be almost like a "table". It's waist high and that makes it easier to demonstrate and teach correct technique while capturing the technique via video.



But as we all know, virtually no vehicle ever made, even the VW Thing is a simple matter of polishing-waxing this flat panel, then going onto the next flat panel.

There's nooks, there's crannies, there's dips, there's grooves, there's tight spots, there's mirrors, there's gas tank lids, there's sill steps, rocker panels, there's edges, door jambs, license plate pockets, the list goes on and on, and I know we all face these difficult areas on each and every vehicle.

The point, and advice I am trying to get to Mike with this post, is what recommendations, and advice can you give to addressing these areas?

See these two videos...


Video: How to buff tight areas plus concave and convex curved panels by machine


Video: Tips for using a Rotary Buffer and the Flex 3401 on vertical panels


This is another good one...

Video: How to tape-off car trim before machine polishing




MarkD51 said:
Is there any right method to such hand processes? Straight lines in some areas, small circular movements in others?
Click to expand...

See this article,

The Yoda Technique for Buffing out a Car




MarkD51 said:
As I close, thank you Mike! Mark
Click to expand...

Thank you... I'm a lucky man in that I have a job I truly love...


:)
 
Re: It's not that hard...

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
...

That said, most detailers should be doing one-step procedures, that is after washing and removing any above surface bonded contaminants, most detailers should be using a one-step cleaner wax. That's the topic of this article I wrote here,

A few tips on starting a part-time detailing business
Match your services to your customer



And there's NOTHING wrong with doing one-steps, in fact it's the right thing to do for must your customers and for most cases it will be more profitable.


:)
Click to expand...
So Mike, which would you recommend - a one step with something like KAIO/Opti GPS or a using a light machine polish such as M205/Opti Hyper Polish then going to a WOWA sealant like BF Crystal Seal? I understand that techically the second option is a two step, but...my thinking is that the light machine polish will remove more of the swirls & light scratches then in option 1 and in the end look better with little to no extra time.
 
Re: It's not that hard...

addysdaddy said:
I understand that techically the second option is a two step, but...my thinking is that the light machine polish will remove more of the swirls & light scratches then in option 1 and in the end look better with little to no extra time.
Click to expand...


If you do a two step then charge for a two step. Offer your customer 3-4 packages with each package offering more service for more money.

If you customer doesn't want to pay a lot for the job then stick with a one-step and a DA Polisher.


Good question!


:)
 
Re: It's not that hard...

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
You can think of a flat hood or trunk lid to be almost like a "table". It's waist high and that makes it easier to demonstrate and teach correct technique while capturing the technique via video.



But as we all know, virtually no vehicle ever made, even the VW Thing is a simple matter of polishing-waxing this flat panel, then going onto the next flat panel.

There's nooks, there's crannies, there's dips, there's grooves, there's tight spots, there's mirrors, there's gas tank lids, there's sill steps, rocker panels, there's edges, door jambs, license plate pockets, the list goes on and on, and I know we all face these difficult areas on each and every vehicle.

The point, and advice I am trying to get to Mike with this post, is what recommendations, and advice can you give to addressing these areas?

See these two videos...


Video: How to buff tight areas plus concave and convex curved panels by machine


Video: Tips for using a Rotary Buffer and the Flex 3401 on vertical panels


This is another good one...

Video: How to tape-off car trim before machine polishing






See this article,

The Yoda Technique for Buffing out a Car






Thank you... I'm a lucky man in that I have a job I truly love...


:)
Click to expand...

Hello Mike, I so much deeply appreciate your personal response about such procedures, and expertise.

I made a little pun the other day, you and I in a Bobby Flay showdown. Of course one big joke from me, that I hope made you and the rest of the seasoned forumites chuckle, as I can clearly recognize that you sir, have forgotten more than I know.

I'm learning again, and as you well know, there's a school, a temple, and it goes by the name of "Hard Knocks". That books, and even your tutuorials can only go so far.

There's "the talk", and then there's "the walk".

I'm new here. But maybe one day I'll earn a little tiny piece of the sidewalk. It takes some more work some more experience under my belt. Otherwise, I'm studying, and I'm listening mostly, and that's the best advice for myself right now!

Thanks again Mike! We are all truly gifted to be graced by your presence here. Mark
 
Re: It's not that hard...

MarkD51 said:
Hello Mike, I so much deeply appreciate your personal response about such procedures, and expertise.

Click to expand...


That's my writing style and it reflects my teaching style in person.

I started out like everyone else, that is knowing nothing. When I asked for help and information, I was give BAD information and almost ruined the paint on my custom painted 1948 Plymouth Coupe. Ever since then I NEVER forget my roots and do my best to always help everyone by getting them good information, be it on the forum or in person at a class.

Recently, someone told me "anyone" could run a forum... bring it on... I love competition... :laughing:


MarkD51 said:


I made a little pun the other day, you and I in a Bobby Flay showdown. Of course one big joke from me, that I hope made you and the rest of the seasoned forumites chuckle, as I can clearly recognize that you sir, have forgotten more than I know.

Click to expand...


And I know many guys in this industry that have forgotten more than I'll ever know... :)

I do make a mean Habanero Hot Sauce though... :D


MarkD51 said:


I'm learning again, and as you well know, there's a school, a temple, and it goes by the name of "Hard Knocks". That books, and even your tutorials can only go so far.

Click to expand...


I'm a former student of the School of Hard Knocks, the goal now days is to avoid making mistakes...

MarkD51 said:
There's "the talk", and then there's "the walk".

Click to expand...


And I would add to that there's a way to do both in a professional manner, not something you'll see all the time...


MarkD51 said:
I'm new here. But maybe one day I'll earn a little tiny piece of the sidewalk. It takes some more work some more experience under my belt. Otherwise, I'm studying, and I'm listening mostly, and that's the best advice for myself right now!
Click to expand...


For years in the forum world and in the real world I encourage everyone to always be learning, to always be open to new ideas, products, tools, techniques, etc. and I practice what I preach. Always learning...


MarkD51 said:


Thanks again Mike! We are all truly gifted to be graced by your presence here. Mark
Click to expand...

That's over the top but thank you. I'm just lucky to have carved out a career doing what I love,

Making cars shiny
Helping others to make cars shiny


Kind of simple but sure keeps me busy...


:dblthumb2:
 
Re: It's not that hard...

Mike.Phillips@Autogeek said:
***Bump***

Lots of good info, questions, answers and links for anyone new to machine polishing...



:xyxthumbs:
Click to expand...


just reading and reading as i try to gather more info/ tips and tricks... unfortunately i am in NJ, and its cold, and snowy... so i have to wait a while till i can get rocking with all my new gear...

i hope it works well, because im slightly concerned about some articles that i read, that indicate that they did everything by the book, (to coin a phrase ) ,, and still the results dont look any better then before they started...

Mike... i recenty purchased over 600 bucks of all types of stuff form AG... i hope things go well... and thanks for responding to some of my earlier posts... i dont know how you find the time to read and respond ...lol...

i have a new 2012 honda ridgeline but i put about 35 k of highway driving on it a year... so it takes a natural beaten... i am anal about cleaning it, and keep up with it rather well, excpet for some small spider webs and minor swils from improper washing and drying...

i do have a question though....i know its said to start and use the least abraisive to start...

i have mostly XMT Products ...


XMT #1,2,3, xmt swirl removal
XMT carnuba finishing glaze
and Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant

Im trying to figure out which one to start with....

#2...... or #1 .... I'm guesing #1 should be ok.... then move to the xmt finishing glaze.... then the wolfgang deep gloss spritz sealant ...

my main question is about the spritz.... is this stuff just spay on and wipe off as indicated only?, or can it be polished off with a bonnet for better results ?

thanks for your time..

jim d
 
Re: It's not that hard...

drumer66 said:
just reading and reading as i try to gather more info/ tips and tricks... unfortunately i am in NJ, and its cold, and snowy... so i have to wait a while till i can get rocking with all my new gear...

i hope it works well, because im slightly concerned about some articles that i read, that indicate that they did everything by the book, (to coin a phrase ) ,, and still the results dont look any better then before they started...

Mike... i recenty purchased over 600 bucks of all types of stuff form AG... i hope things go well... and thanks for responding to some of my earlier posts... i dont know how you find the time to read and respond ...lol...

i have a new 2012 honda ridgeline but i put about 35 k of highway driving on it a year... so it takes a natural beaten... i am anal about cleaning it, and keep up with it rather well, excpet for some small spider webs and minor swils from improper washing and drying...

i do have a question though....i know its said to start and use the least abraisive to start...

i have mostly XMT Products ...


XMT #1,2,3, xmt swirl removal
XMT carnuba finishing glaze
and Wolfgang Deep Gloss Spritz Sealant

Im trying to figure out which one to start with....

#2...... or #1 .... I'm guesing #1 should be ok.... then move to the xmt finishing glaze.... then the wolfgang deep gloss spritz sealant ...

my main question is about the spritz.... is this stuff just spay on and wipe off as indicated only?, or can it be polished off with a bonnet for better results ?

thanks for your time..

jim d
Click to expand...

I'm not Mike, but I'm pretty certain what he's going to say.

You asked what polishes to start with. Well the most important thing to do is do a test spot! (Mike would then insert his test spot link here)

Once you are 100% happy with how the results on your test spot look, then you start doing whatever you did to the test spot to the rest of the car.

(Insert other helpful links here, possible picture of page in his book)

The wolfgang spritz is very easy to buff off, and I think you should just do as the directions state which is to apply, spread, buff off, repeat. I'm not sure using a machine would be helpful or even save time to be honest.

(Insert more helpful links)


Roshan

:)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top