Boat was / sealant

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pier-pressure

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Ive cleaned my gelcoat with duragloss 561,is finishing with 501 enough to protect ? Should I use a sealant or perhaps colonize ALSO on top of the 561 ? 561 then- 501 then ???
 
Also what's better collonite insulator or their boat wax for gelcoat ?
 
Welcome to AutoGeek Online!

561
501
You could stop here if you like as 501 has sealant qualities with fabulous durability, or go further...

...and wax with Collinite 845, or 476. Since it's a boat why no go with Collinite 885 Fleetwax? Collinite 885 is the longest lasting according to the Collinite website and it's marketed as their top product for boats.

I honestly wouldn't be afraid to use any of the Collinite waxes on cars or boats. All do a superb job at protecting. Couple with the sealant qualities of Duragloss underneath you have the makin's of a killer combo, for sure.
 
Hoytman said:
Welcome to AutoGeek Online!

561
501
You could stop here if you like as 501 has sealant qualities with fabulous durability, or go further...

...and wax with Collinite 845, or 476. Since it's a boat why no go with Collinite 885 Fleetwax? Collinite 885 is the longest lasting according to the Collinite website and it's marketed as their top product for boats.

I honestly wouldn't be afraid to use any of the Collinite waxes on cars or boats. All do a superb job at protecting. Couple with the sealant qualities of Duragloss underneath you have the makin's of a killer combo, for sure.
Click to expand...

Love collonite paste but its a MAJORRRRRR job on a 32 foot boat. Need to make it manageable and doable.

Is their really any difference in the durability between 845 and 476 ?

Is one easier than the other to apply and remove ?

Thanks
 
No sense in speculating...here you go in order of durability for automotive products...476, 915, 845:
FAQs » Collinite Scroll down to question #2.

Automotive product selection: http://www.collinite.com/assets/Uploads/docs/autoprodselectguide.pdf

Marine product selection: http://www.collinite.com/assets/Uploads/docs/marineselector726.pdf

Recently used 845 on a 25' walk-around cutty fishing boat. Machine applied, thinly, it was a breeze to apply. Slightly more than an breeze to remove and was extremely impressed with longevity and ease of use. Use too much and you have a disaster on your hands. Thin for the win!!!! Unless you detail for a living a bottle will last an eternity...well almost.
 
Hoytman said:
No sense in speculating...here you go in order of durability for automotive products...476, 915, 845:
FAQs » Collinite Scroll down to question #2.

Automotive product selection: http://www.collinite.com/assets/Uploads/docs/autoprodselectguide.pdf

Marine product selection: http://www.collinite.com/assets/Uploads/docs/marineselector726.pdf

Recently used 845 on a 25' walk-around cutty fishing boat. Machine applied, thinly, it was a breeze to apply. Slightly more than an breeze to remove and was extremely impressed with longevity and ease of use. Use too much and you have a disaster on your hands. Thin for the win!!!! Unless you detail for a living a bottle will last an eternity...well almost.
Click to expand...

Thanks !!

Seems like the 845 Insulator and 915 Marine was gives the same durability. Did you do the whole process to the insultator prior to applying ? Was that quick and easy ? The hot water bath and then shaking ?
 
pier-pressure said:
Thanks !!

Seems like the 845 Insulator and 915 Marine was gives the same durability. Did you do the whole process to the insultator prior to applying ? Was that quick and easy ? The hot water bath and then shaking ?
Click to expand...

The Collinite 915 is in their automotive line. Big picture...it can be used for boats as well, as can the 885 marine which can also be applied to cars.

Not sure I understand what it is you're asking in your reference to "the whole process."

As far as "hot water" is concerned I did place the bottle in hot water as it was early spring time in northern Ohio when I used the product. About 10-15 minutes then shake vigorously. The product still wasn't a liquid, but I easily squeezed about 3 small dabs...as in squeeze the bottle just so a bit is sticking out of the bottle, then just wipe my finger across it, then prime the pad with what's on my finger.

Trust me...a little goes a long, long way.

One way to see if you have additional product left in he pad is to press the pad against the boat and look at the hull at an angle to light. When you think you're about out of product, press the pad against the hull, look at the hull at an angle to the light and if you see product on the hull...keep moving and spread it out. Do it again...press the pad against the hull and look for product that squeezed out. If you see product there's still plenty of wax to keep working with.
 
Hoytman said:
The Collinite 915 is in their automotive line. Big picture...it can be used for boats as well, as can the 885 marine which can also be applied to cars.

Not sure I understand what it is you're asking in your reference to "the whole process."

As far as "hot water" is concerned I did place the bottle in hot water as it was early spring time in northern Ohio when I used the product. About 10-15 minutes then shake vigorously. The product still wasn't a liquid, but I easily squeezed about 3 small dabs...as in squeeze the bottle just so a bit is sticking out of the bottle, then just wipe my finger across it, then prime the pad with what's on my finger.

Trust me...a little goes a long, long way.

One way to see if you have additional product left in he pad is to press the pad against the boat and look at the hull at an angle to light. When you think you're about out of product, press the pad against the hull, look at the hull at an angle to the light and if you see product on the hull...keep moving and spread it out. Do it again...press the pad against the hull and look for product that squeezed out. If you see product there's still plenty of wax to keep working with.
Click to expand...

sorry I meant the 925 Marine line, if that is easier to apply than the INSULATOR one. Im probably going to go with the marine one seems like durability is equal.
 
You can use either, 925, or the 845, or any other product of your chosing.

Collinite 845 is listed as an automotive... Read here... Insulator Wax » Collinite ...and an industrial wax...Read here... Insulator Liquid/Gel Wax Protector » Collinite .

Now that you're good and confused about where 845 can be applied, simply read the bottle and use it for which ever purpose you choose...that's the big picture.
 
Not to add anymore confusion, but have you considered going with DG 601/105 after the 501?

I did this on our boats this spring. Neither stay in the water 24/7 and are stored inside, but the DG seems to be holding up very well. Can't wait to see how they are doing next year. This is Great Lakes environment also.
 
Chris's FX4 said:
Not to add anymore confusion, but have you considered going with DG 601/105 after the 501?

I did this on our boats this spring. Neither stay in the water 24/7 and are stored inside, but the DG seems to be holding up very well. Can't wait to see how they are doing next year. This is Great Lakes environment also.
Click to expand...

MY boat is in the salt environment all year, stored on trailer but not indoors. Its hard to judge the effectiveness of a product in your situation compared to mine. Very different environments.

South Florida
 
pier-pressure said:
MY boat is in the salt environment all year, stored on trailer but not indoors. Its hard to judge the effectiveness of a product in your situation compared to mine. Very different environments.

South Florida
Click to expand...

I had a feeling you were in the salt water environment. Anyways, good luck with the boat.:xyxthumbs:
 
I did 561-501-ultima paint guard plus.....6 months later looks great....
 
This past spring I took a Meguiar's W-4000 wool pad on a rotary, combined with Meguiar's M67 One-Step Compound. I used a tape line every two feet to tell where I was at and the results were spectacular. I then followed that with 2 coats of Optimum Opti-seal (several hours apart), and finally a coat of Collinite 845. We just pulled the boat this past weekend from it's dock on Lake Erie where it's been ever since the end of May (I originally thought it was March, but I was mistaken). The hull was still beading water nicely and still shiny. The beading had faded somewhat, but that is a given.

The boat...
25' Baha Cruiser Walk-Around Fisherman...a 1996 model and the first time it had ever been polished.

Short story...
A guy stopped by in admiration of the shiny hull just as I was pulling of the masking tape from the decals. He had the same boat, but a 2002 model and stated that he thought our boat was newer than his because of the shine on the hull. That my friend should tell you something about the combo of a rotary, wool, and M67 (a one-step product). I love it!

I also used Buff Magic a few weeks back on a 1976 Boston Whaler in which I was told (by a guy at 3M) I'd have to sand it to get it to shine, then compound and polish. Wrong! I used the same combo that I used above, except this time I used Buff Magic (pink version...and a one-step product to boot) in place of M67.

I'll need to use both products more to make up my mind which performs best, but I was extremely pleased with the results of each product on well aged gel-coat.
 
One thing to note from my above post; neither Buff Magic (pink or white versions) or Meguiar's M67 offer any protection...zero. You'll certainly need to apply something ( a polymer sealant or wax) to protect the surface.
 
Hoytman said:
One thing to note from my above post; neither Buff Magic (pink or white versions) or Meguiar's M67 offer any protection...zero. You'll certainly need to apply something ( a polymer sealant or wax) to protect the surface.
Click to expand...

I used M67 with similar results, great product. I used a GG6 with a yellow B&S pad and it still came out great, just took awhile:).


Sent from my iPhone using AG Online
 
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