Menz power lock won't dry!

You definitely applied too much, as far as sealants go, ive used BFWDPS and i hardly work that in at all, if any. I just spread with my PC set to speed 3 and do 1 pass and I have never had a problem.
 
OhTwoGT said:
You definitely applied too much, as far as sealants go, ive used BFWDPS and i hardly work that in at all, if any. I just spread with my PC set to speed 3 and do 1 pass and I have never had a problem.
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I would characterize applying with a PC to be "working it in". I don't know why we're getting hung up on this phrase, you don't put LSP on with a single wipe and leave it, you have to spread it out evenly, overlap your sections, i.e. "working it in".
 
Did you rewash the car after polishing? So you say you didn't IPA? I would think that the oils from the polish are preventing the sealant from drying and bonding. Do you get a smear after wiping it? I get this problem from time to time. But only if the polish is not fully removed. Usually happens with carnuba's though.
 
Regarding the work in thing. I come from a whole different place than most of todays folks, especially those who do this for a living. Not saying better, just different, or old school show car thinking perhaps is a better term.

IF you are doing a black or dark car and the object is a show car finish, doing the LSP with a machine CAN be problematic. Many of these paints are so soft, like honda/acura the odds are not in your favor of doing an lsp without any cobweb straches sans fillers. If you don't know this yet, you haven't been unlucky enough to have to work these soft blacks.

Point is once you get in polished right, you don't want to touch it again. So you pick an LSP that will need as little "english" as possible. IMHO once the surface has been polished with a high oil polish, it will not accept anything trying to get into it. Perhaps the machine is heating the PL enough to help it flash? Just musing.

Bottom line for us old schoolers for dark show car finishs- Polish perfectly and then touch as little as possible. If the car is not dark or soft, machine away as you won't see a difference. Personally i cringe seeing todays folks layer on all kinds of product with a machine and then say how great it looks. Get a black hood and a UV light and i believe you will find that each coat actually after a great lsp will add a little milkiness with each coat. Of course with most products however the extra coats do not really stick so you see little difference. Just my experiences.

PS- i just did my wheels with PL on a small cotton cloth. Went on very nice and then. I did not polish the wheels. Hmmm. Have to grill Menz if i can get them.
 
I am experiencing this same thing with power lock. Only way to really see it is under the sun and LED. As much as I wipe it just moves the product around and almost looks like marring. I finish a little differently so I'm not even using a heavy oiled polish before application. I leave anywhere from 30 min to a few hours and same result. You guys say it's in our application method or because of oily polishes... then how is this a becoming more of an issue with people no matter how applied? Did not have this problem with other sealants.
 
another case of a hard headed individual. The sealant is super concentrated and 'yes' you have to work it in and spread it as far as it will go until its no longer laying down evenly. THEN, add more to your applicator. you cant just wipe it on thick and leave it or it will never dry. This sealant is top of the line and it sucks that you wont take the advice of the forum members who have the proper experience and know-how on how to use one of the better product's out there.

"doing" your LSP with a machine (DA) and a soft foam finishing pad is MUCH safer than applying by hand on soft paint finish's by hand with finger and hand pressure points.

The products of today are far different than the ones of 40 years ago. Most of the sealants AG sells are true finishing wax's and sealants. meaning there not loaded with abrasives and cleaners like what old school folks are used to. So you can treat them much differently.

The members on this forum give great advice. If your not gonna be open minded, why bother making a thread ?

Just a small note, you should only be using 1oz of product to apply to a medium sized car. If your using a lot more than this, or even double this, you are applying way to much. get a small sample bottle. fill it up to 1oz and stretch that to do the entire car. if you do it like that, I gaurantee you will have zero issue with the product drying properly. also, menzerna power lock is not supposed to dry up and go powdery. you can remove it somewhat wet after about 15 20 minutes.
 
Another case of the big mouth over a forum... I'm referring to the response above this. You don't know what you are talking about as its only power lock that the issue is with. It's not an issue of being taken off. It's the tiny bit of residual that can only be seen off the suns reflection. And just because you may happen not to have a problem with it doesn't mean it couldn't be something that others are actually having to wrong with the product. Not application. Any other sealant has come completely off without issue. I already know what type of guy you are. Lol.
 
Maybe something is different with some of the newer bottles of PL, as Ive used this sealant on my black car and found it quite easy, almost error proof to work with - compared to similar products. My bottle is pretty old, I think I bought it the first month it came out. Ive applied it all different ways, as the bottle was so old, that at the time I didn't know as much as I do now. Also, I never had any issue with it's predecessor - FMJ.

I cant imagine someone who has been doing this for many years could have any problem with the product I have - so, Im thinking it's different or defective ?
 
mg6045 said:
another case of a hard headed individual. The sealant is super concentrated and 'yes' you have to work it in and spread it as far as it will go until its no longer laying down evenly. THEN, add more to your applicator. you cant just wipe it on thick and leave it or it will never dry. This sealant is top of the line and it sucks that you wont take the advice of the forum members who have the proper experience and know-how on how to use one of the better product's out there.

"doing" your LSP with a machine (DA) and a soft foam finishing pad is MUCH safer than applying by hand on soft paint finish's by hand with finger and hand pressure points.

The products of today are far different than the ones of 40 years ago. Most of the sealants AG sells are true finishing wax's and sealants. meaning there not loaded with abrasives and cleaners like what old school folks are used to. So you can treat them much differently.

The members on this forum give great advice. If your not gonna be open minded, why bother making a thread ?

Just a small note, you should only be using 1oz of product to apply to a medium sized car. If your using a lot more than this, or even double this, you are applying way to much. get a small sample bottle. fill it up to 1oz and stretch that to do the entire car. if you do it like that, I gaurantee you will have zero issue with the product drying properly. also, menzerna power lock is not supposed to dry up and go powdery. you can remove it somewhat wet after about 15 20 minutes.
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First it was folks here that told med the product powdered up. My head is just fine and my mind is wide open. Yes i am an OCD retired design engineer that analyzes everything to a fault. So sue me. When i see folks describing a product and my sample seems to be working different, i ask. I can figure out any issues myself, just thought others would be interested. But some like you like to assume anyone coming to this list is a newbie and can't apply anything. Humble out dude, just because someone says they have an issue doesn't mean they are a newbie. The best finish of today is NOT better looking than old school. Old school performs. Of course NO old school folks use abrasives or cleaners! You just want to believe new school is better? Better products? Thats certainly debatable. Did i panic a bit and slam the product a bit too much? Yes i did, sorry to Menz and AG. I'll give them lots of business to make up. You comment about using a DA for LSP's just shows me your lack of experience. Or perhaps your rationalizing. As an example - I"ve owned a black NSX since 93. Removing the LSP without a couple of cobweb scratches becomes more of a matter of luck, not be mention considerable skill. Some era beemers are the same. You would be crazy to DA the finish on this car. It's safer because you keep that solid layer of product so the pad never touches? Yeah, good luck with that on my NSX. At least getting it to MY standard. I have a spare door that i've tested using air and elec rotarys, the PC and 3401.

M4power- i don't know what problem you are talking about. I have no streaking and the product looks great. My issue was first the product didn't powder, and i mistakenly thought it was supposed to. So i was keying off that. Second using the MF pad method recommended with my sample required one to keep the thumb under and sort of scrub. Thats not good. Now that i know you go ahead and take it off gummy, i'm good except for the scrubbing thing.
 
TANTO said:
First it was folks here that told med the product powdered up. My head is just fine and my mind is wide open. Yes i am an OCD retired design engineer that analyzes everything to a fault. So sue me. When i see folks describing a product and my sample seems to be working different, i ask. I can figure out any issues myself, just thought others would be interested. But some like you like to assume anyone coming to this list is a newbie and can't apply anything. Humble out dude, just because someone says they have an issue doesn't mean they are a newbie. The best finish of today is NOT better looking than old school. Old school performs. Of course NO old school folks use abrasives or cleaners! You just want to believe new school is better? Better products? Thats certainly debatable. Did i panic a bit and slam the product a bit too much? Yes i did, sorry to Menz and AG. I'll give them lots of business to make up. You comment about using a DA for LSP's just shows me your lack of experience. Or perhaps your rationalizing. As an example - I"ve owned a black NSX since 93. Removing the LSP without a couple of cobweb scratches becomes more of a matter of luck, not be mention considerable skill. Some era beemers are the same. You would be crazy to DA the finish on this car. It's safer because you keep that solid layer of product so the pad never touches? Yeah, good luck with that on my NSX. At least getting it to MY standard. I have a spare door that i've tested using air and elec rotarys, the PC and 3401.

M4power- i don't know what problem you are talking about. I have no streaking and the product looks great. My issue was first the product didn't powder, and i mistakenly thought it was supposed to. So i was keying off that. Second using the MF pad method recommended with my sample required one to keep the thumb under and sort of scrub. Thats not good. Now that i know you go ahead and take it off gummy, i'm good except for the scrubbing thing.
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Threads getting a little whacky but I have some ?. You're saying your sample, where did you get the sample. As for the DA thing, I think it's personal preference. Some choose to do it and whatever results they get, they get, some don't. Also, in my experience, haven't used it in about a year, the PL will sort of dry out and when it does it wipes off like nothing.
 
mg6045 said:
another case of a hard headed individual. The sealant is super concentrated and 'yes' you have to work it in and spread it as far as it will go until its no longer laying down evenly. THEN, add more to your applicator. you cant just wipe it on thick and leave it or it will never dry. This sealant is top of the line and it sucks that you wont take the advice of the forum members who have the proper experience and know-how on how to use one of the better product's out there.

"doing" your LSP with a machine (DA) and a soft foam finishing pad is MUCH safer than applying by hand on soft paint finish's by hand with finger and hand pressure points.

The products of today are far different than the ones of 40 years ago. Most of the sealants AG sells are true finishing wax's and sealants. meaning there not loaded with abrasives and cleaners like what old school folks are used to. So you can treat them much differently.

The members on this forum give great advice. If your not gonna be open minded, why bother making a thread ?

Just a small note, you should only be using 1oz of product to apply to a medium sized car. If your using a lot more than this, or even double this, you are applying way to much. get a small sample bottle. fill it up to 1oz and stretch that to do the entire car. if you do it like that, I gaurantee you will have zero issue with the product drying properly. also, menzerna power lock is not supposed to dry up and go powdery. you can remove it somewhat wet after about 15 20 minutes.
Click to expand...

A little harsh don't you think. I never apply a LSP with a DA. What does that have to do with anything anyway? Even if it was applied thick, wiping it, then letting it sit again should help it dry. If it is still smearing then maybe something is wrong. Unless you sit and watch these guys working on their car. How do you know they are doing something wrong? Just because they don't use a DA? I guess I have been screwing crap up for years then.
 
loudog2 said:
A little harsh don't you think. I never apply a LSP with a DA. What does that have to do with anything anyway? Even if it was applied thick, wiping it, then letting it sit again should help it dry. If it is still smearing then maybe something is wrong. Unless you sit and watch these guys working on their car. How do you know they are doing something wrong? Just because they don't use a DA? I guess I have been screwing crap up for years then.
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Holy cow, everybody needs to take a chill pill. It doesn't have anything to do with hand vs. DA, the number one newb issue is using too much product. The number one issue with LSP's not drying is using too much product. I am on this forum every day and I've never heard of anyone having any problems with PowerLock drying.

1+1 = 2 which is why most of us said "you put it on too thick". So if the OP isn't a newb, and he didn't apply it too thick, he already said his temp and humidity were good, so maybe it's a bad batch of product, maybe they changed the formulation and he's the first to try it, maybe it really is a residual polishing oil problem.

Instead of bickering why don't we wait for some more member feedback or an AG statement in the thread addressing the bad batch/formula change issue. The OP also stated he was waiting to hear back from Menzerna USA.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
Holy cow, everybody needs to take a chill pill. It doesn't have anything to do with hand vs. DA, the number one newb issue is using too much product. The number one issue with LSP's not drying is using too much product. I am on this forum every day and I've never heard of anyone having any problems with PowerLock drying.

1+1 = 2 which is why most of us said "you put it on too thick". So if the OP isn't a newb, and he didn't apply it too thick, he already said his temp and humidity were good, so maybe it's a bad batch of product, maybe they changed the formulation and he's the first to try it, maybe it really is a residual polishing oil problem.

Instead of bickering why don't we wait for some more member feedback or an AG statement in the thread addressing the bad batch/formula change issue. The OP also stated he was waiting to hear back from Menzerna USA.
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The OP said: I'ts on as thin as this thick soup would allow.

I have had two different patches of Menzerna Power Lock and it is fairly runny (similar to WGDPS or BFMS) so I am leaning toward the bad batch theory.
 
Bunky said:
The OP said: I'ts on as thin as this thick soup would allow.

I have had two different patches of Menzerna Power Lock and it is fairly runny (similar to WGDPS or BFMS) so I am leaning toward the bad batch theory.
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The OP also mentioned he was using his sample. I'm curious where he got his sample from.
 
snowking724 said:
The OP also mentioned he was using his sample. I'm curious where he got his sample from.
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In context, he was discussing his engineering background; my guess is "sample" was meant to describe his bottle of PowerLock, not that he got a sample from someone. Just as if you were doing lab tests and you had multiple "samples" for testing.
 
Setec Astronomy said:
In context, he was discussing his engineering background; my guess is "sample" was meant to describe his bottle of PowerLock, not that he got a sample from someone. Just as if you were doing lab tests and you had multiple "samples" for testing.
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Quite possibly, but I would like them to clarify because something ain't right here. Just trying pinpoint where this went wrong since I don't believe the PL is the issue here.
 
OK, since i'm the OP i'll summarize this if a can. My sample was fresh from AG. Can't remember if a said this, but i turned over the bottle that was in my 64 deg F garage and timed how long it took the contents to fall. About 25 minutes. This is a super thick product, period.

I spoke with Menz USA's head guy. While they were polite and all, but i got the impression they didn't know any more about this product than i did. I kept getting the answer, "well, on my car i do this". They said to take it off after 20 minutes. Were not sure about going over polishes. They said their batches are so large, it was unlikely that i got a bad batch. He didn't know if heating the product 10 degrees or so wouldd help. I WILL heat the product slightly next time.

Bottom line for me. I like the product results so far and will hope to get it on much thinner next time. The recommended foam MF app pad keeps soaking up product and gets sticky. I will use a small cotton cloth next time. I'm not interested in machine applied LSP's personally.
 
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