Any Major Differences b/t these hybrid coatings?

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Is their any difference between CarPro C. Quartz, GTechniq EXO, and Optimum Opti-Coat 2.0?

Aside from their application process obviously.

Thanks, Kieran
 
optimum opticoat 2.0 is permanent protection whereas the others are semi-permanent.

Permanent meaning pretty much life of the car, semi permanent meaning apprx 3 years
 
as manufacturer of one of the coatings listed here I want to try not to speak out of turn. Just want to make the point that the reason we say our coatings (c1 and exo) last around 3 years - it's not that they will have been removed after three years - they bond chemically with your paintwork so they are always going to be there.

but...

two things that influence what an end user will use to judge whether or not the car is protected.

first. the hydrophobic function - ie does water still bead/pearl on the surface. on an everyday car that is looked after reasonably carefully - ie using a quality pure shampoo and not a caustic cleaner, this function typically lasts for appx 18 months. once it's gone/diminished then most people will judge the coating to have gone too. this is not the case.

second. the reappearance of swirls. all of the coatings listed help to minimise swirls through two functions. first that a treated surface requires less frequent and less vigorous washing (exo is astonishingly good for this) and as it's the wash process that introduces swirls it follows that there will be less of them. second is that quartz based coatings are thin and hard which is exactly the physical property you want to minimise swirls.

but having said that, on an everyday car, for most customers swirls are going to reappear and if you are the kind of guy who gets massively bugged out when you see swirls on your pride and joy, you are going to be itching to break out the rotary to get shot of them. as a rule of thumb, on an every day car, this would be at around 3 years after first application.

hth!
 
Hello Rob!
How is rebuild going on?
 
Hello Rob!
How is rebuild going on?

is that you rui? all going quite well. shipping about half our lines now and our new premises will be ready in about 3 weeks. hope to be back to full strength in about 1 month :xyxthumbs:
 
and afaik EXO is the only hybrid coating listed. it's a hybrid of the chemically bonding hard inorganic quartz base and an organic top layer that has all the nice function you get from a very expensive wax ie the slick feel, super wet look and great hydrophobic function. but none of the downsides of poor durability, opaqueness, stickiness and susceptibility to yellowing.
 
is that you rui? all going quite well. shipping about half our lines now and our new premises will be ready in about 3 weeks. hope to be back to full strength in about 1 month :xyxthumbs:

Also Rui but not the one you are thinking of (I suppose the one from Car Detail, right?)
 
and afaik EXO is the only hybrid coating listed. it's a hybrid of the chemically bonding hard inorganic quartz base and an organic top layer that has all the nice function you get from a very expensive wax ie the slick feel, super wet look and great hydrophobic function. but none of the downsides of poor durability, opaqueness, stickiness and susceptibility to yellowing.
Hi Rob...Glad to hear you guys are getting back on your feet!

I was going to ask the OP what he meant by a "hybrid coating"...
Glad you responded!

As such...
-I can come to grips with most atomic/molecular bonding-mechanisms, or their terminologies,
as it applies to most LSP's, including Coatings.

However...(And I know you're not going to give away the farm)
-Which type of (valence) bonding is taking place between the inorganic component of EXO and CC paint;
and, then subsequently, that same inorganic component's bond(ing)-ability with the organic component of EXO.?

Example: Optimum Technologies Inc.'s spokepersons have stated that Opti-Gard/Opti-Coat 2.0 bonds
with CC paint through 'covalent bonding'...

And that it's awful hard for other, (I'll call them substances)
to adhere/stick (bond, perhaps?) to Optimum's Coatings.

Thanks.

:)

Bob
 
Hi Rob...Glad to hear you guys are getting back on your feet!

I was going to ask the OP what he meant by a "hybrid coating"...
Glad you responded!

As such...
-I can come to grips with most atomic/molecular bonding-mechanisms, or their terminologies,
as it applies to most LSP's, including Coatings.

However...(And I know you're not going to give away the farm)
-Which type of (valence) bonding is taking place between the inorganic component of EXO and CC paint;
and, then subsequently, that same inorganic component's bond(ing)-ability with the organic component of EXO.?

Example: Optimum Technologies Inc.'s spokepersons have stated that Opti-Gard/Opti-Coat 2.0 bonds
with CC paint through 'covalent bonding'...

And that it's awful hard for other, (I'll call them substances)
to adhere/stick (bond, perhaps?) to Optimum's Coatings.

Thanks.

:)

Bob

all the products listed use a covalent bond whereby the coating swaps part of it's structure (the hydroxyl group) with that of the paint - see here for details of how it works with C1 - similar thing with EXO.

how the organic element of exo bonds to the inorganic element is a trade secret
 
all the products listed use a covalent bond whereby the coating swaps part of it's structure (the hydroxyl group) with that of the paint - see here for details of how it works with C1 - similar thing with EXO.

Thanks for your reply Rob...
-Most informative and helpful! :xyxthumbs:

how the organic element of exo bonds to the inorganic element is a trade secret

^^^(And I know you're not going to give away the farm)^^^

I thought so...:D

(FWIW...I'll keep researching "bonds"...polar/electromag, so to speak)


:)

Bob
 
FUNX725 said:
Example: Optimum Technologies Inc.'s spokepersons have stated that Opti-Gard/Opti-Coat 2.0 bonds
with CC paint through 'covalent bonding'...

And that it's awful hard for other, (I'll call them substances)
to adhere/stick (bond, perhaps?) to Optimum's Coatings

Sorry, I'm late to the conversation. I've just arrived back home from SEMA. To clarify regarding bonding, I have compared covalent bonds to hydrogen bonds when describing the difference between the way Optimum Coatings bond vs. traditional products (waxes and sealants) or nano sealants.

When our product was released alongside other "coatings", I tried to make the distinction that our product is a true coating (like paint is a coating) while nano sealants are merely extended life sealants and only coatings in that they cover the paintwork for a time. Nano sealants have more points of bonding considering the molecule size, but still form a weak bond that will be broken over time and with exposure to various chemicals. That is why some "coatings" recommend or require the use of a booster product in order to maintain the initial attributes and also why multiple applications are recommended initially...to thicken the film build.

all the products listed use a covalent bond whereby the coating swaps part of it's structure (the hydroxyl group) with that of the paint - see here for details of how it works with C1 - similar thing with EXO.

how the organic element of exo bonds to the inorganic element is a trade secret

Like Rob, there's only so much we will divulge regarding composition and sequence...but we try to help inform potential customers as best we can. Here are a few comparative stats for you to consider:

PTFE is a synthetic wax originating from the UK. The main component is PTFE. Average coating thickness is .02 um and durability is usually 4-5 months.

GlassPlexin is a synthetic wax originating from USA. The main component is GlassPlexin. The average coating thickness is .02 um and durability is usually 6-12 months.

Nano Pro is a glass coating originating from Germany. The main component is SiO2. The average coating thickness is .02-1 um and the durability is around 12-18 months.

Ceramic Quartz is a glass coating originating from Japan. The main component is SiO2. The average coating thickness is .5-1.5 um and the durability is around 12-18 months.

OptiCoat is a ceramic clear coat originating from USA. The main component is SiC. The average coating thickness is 1-2 um and the durability is unlimited.


All of these technologies improve gloss, scratch resistance, and chemical resistance...but the combination of our resin and bonding process will yield a result in which the attributes will not fall away or weaken over time or with exposure. Opti-Coat has better chemical resistance, scratch & mar resistance, and release properties than any automotive paint coating in use. It provides permanent protection for all modern factory paints and can also be used to protect metal and hard plastic surfaces.

A single layer of Optimum Clear Coating measures approximately 2 microns in thickness. When compared to other paint protection products, Opti-Coat is more than 100 times thicker, with tests showing a wax coating measuring less than 0.02 microns.
This allows Opti-Coat to effectively absorb damage that would otherwise affect the factory paint layers. Swirl marks and light scratches are not only decreased by the harder Optimum Ceramic Coating, the factory paint is protected and preserved.
Opti-Coat is completely resistant to acidic environmental substances such as bird droppings. Unlike your factory clear coating that can be permanently damaged, Opti-Coat will not etch or dissolve when in contact with these substances, and a clean, glossy clear coating is maintained.

We are so confident of our statements, that we recently announced at SEMA 2012 we will be offering a optional lifetime warranty along with OptiCoat Pro installations on new vehicles when applied by our authorized installers. Used vehicles may also partake of a warranty, but it wil be limited to 5 years coverage simply because of the unknown exposures/processes the car may have endured.
 
That's a lot of great information Chris, thanks for the post. :props:
 
Chris, fantastic information...very thorough! When using your product, how difficult is the application process and how many vehicles on average can be opti coated from the single tube? Considering the vehicles are your average four door sedan.
 
Chris, fantastic information...very thorough! When using your product, how difficult is the application process and how many vehicles on average can be opti coated from the single tube? Considering the vehicles are your average four door sedan.

The application process is pretty straight forward. Just remember not to wipe it more than necessary during the process. Spread it over the panel evenly, wait for 80% or the panel to flash to clear. Anything still visible at this point is excess and should be lightly wiped away before proceeding to the next panel. If you allow a spot to dry that has excess, just lightly buff it away later with a finishing pad and finishing polish by hand. There's no benefit to doing it right away and you may remove more coating than you intend to if you do it while curing.

While any amount of OptiCoat will give the same attributes, we recommend using about 10 cc per medium sized car so that the appropriate thickness will be achieved. If applied appropriately, you would be able todo some light polishing in the future as needed without compromising the coating.



Sent from my iPad 2 viaTapatalk
 
Awesome info Chris, you have made my leap into coatings an easy one and the choice even easier
 
It provides permanent protection for all modern factory paints and can also be used to protect metal and hard plastic surfaces.

Thanks again, Chris...for responding to questions regarding Coatings.

You once again have provided additional evidence as to what my decision will be
when I have a Coating applied to my vehicles. No arguments here.

-I realize that I probably may sound like a broken record at times when I inquire of how
"bonding" occurs between LSP's and various vehicle surfaces/materials.

-I'm hoping that not only myself, but other readers of the AGO forum may find some benefit as well,
by my doing so...
And it doesn't hurt to receive insightful and useful information from the: Manufacturers of Coatings.

-For example:
If there are folks that don't want to use an 'acrylic-based sealant' because of how it
bonds to/with CC paint...

Imagine their anxiety about using a 'Coating' that is
said to bond similarly, or even much differently.
____________________________________________________________________________________________________

With that being said...

Now if I may pose one more puzzler I have regarding Opti-Coatings and metals...
Chrome (chromium) plated metals in general...
"Decorative Chrome" (like on Chrome-wheels ) specifically.

In my experience...
-Unlike CC paint...Decorative chromium-plating is not porous...
Rather it is a lattice/intercises layering...
Cracks...as I've known it to be called.

(One exception is the chromium-plating that is
deliberately-made-to-be-porous...for things like oiling/oil-retention on crankshafts)

-That's what gives chromium-plating not only its main property of hardness ('9' on the Knoop's hardness-scale);
but also causes it to have a low coefficient of friction…almost nothing will stick to it.

Eventually, over time and not protected... this latticed-layer of chromium-cracks will break down
and allow contaminates to begin their relentless assault on first the nickel(s), and then
the copper layers that has been protected by the chromium-plating.


So IMO...
-I agree with the above highlighted statement: be used to protect metal...
With the emphasis on: to protect.

-However...I absolutely do consider this to be very different than the covalent-bonding that
occurs between Optimum's-Coatings and porous CC paint.

-It is as other chrome: Waxes, Sealants, (and even oils) perform on chromium-plating...
"It's just providing a sacrificial-layer of additional protection on/atop the chromium-plating"...

Thus allowing the furtherance of chromium-plating's protection to it's underlying nickel(s) and copper substrates.


Please advise. Thanks.

:)

Bob
 
Thanks for jumping in Chris. It's great to have the tech info that you possess. I can't tell people why something like this works but just what the product does or doesn't do.
 
Chris, will your coating work on modern single stage paint? I'm tiring of polishing water spots and scuffs out of the super sensitive black single stage on my truck. I'm hoping your coating is the answer otherwise its back to the paint booth for some coats of clear.
 
Chris, will your coating work on modern single stage paint? I'm tiring of polishing water spots and scuffs out of the super sensitive black single stage on my truck. I'm hoping your coating is the answer otherwise its back to the paint booth for some coats of clear.

-The below info will provide at least some: Reading Material...until Chris has the chance to answer.

-Perhaps Optimum-Coating's formulae have been tweaked to accommodate
SS paint systems since this was originally published.

:)

Bob

Q & A with Dr. G of Optimum:

3.-Can Opti-Coat 2.0 be applied to single stage paints of any age?

Opti-Coat 2.0 was designed for clearcoat paint and it should be applied after the paint defects are removed. We have not done any long term testing with this product on single stage paint.
There are several professional detailers that have applied Opti-Coat to single stage paint after removing all the defects and oxidation with great results. They might be able to provide more information on this application but the main purpose of this product is to protect clearcoat from the elements and premature failure due to over-polishing.

4.-Consider a car with older single stage paint that is badly oxidized and faded and then polished to perfection and brought back to glossy condition. Can Opti-Coat 2.0 lock in the gloss or have any effect stopping the paint from regressing to its faded condition?

Please refer to the previous answer.


As a paint chemist, I was always puzzled why people over-polish their car paint and cause the paint to fail prematurely (we all have seen examples of clearcoat failure). Opti-Coat 2.0 is the most effective way to avoid premature failure of clearcoats.


Our research team spent over 4 years developing and testing Opti-Coat before it was released for professional use and another 3 years to develop Opti-Coat 2.0 for consumer use. This coating has better scratch and mar resistance, better UV resistance, and better chemical resistance than factory clears. Therefore the effects of the elements on Opti-Coat 2.0 is far less than factory clears and there will be much less need for polishing once this is applied on top of the existing clear. Even if you do remove Opti-Coat 2.0 by polishing, you can easily replace it by adding another coat.


Please let me know if I can be of further assistance. Thanks again.

Best Regards,
David,

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