Waterspots,paint cleaners and UC,???

[Beerwulf76]

So I washed my neighbors 20011 Dodge charger today. It was quite dirty with plenty of water spots from sprinklers. I washed with Gold Class with some ONR added in.I did not notice until drying the vehicle that the water spots remained as before washing.

So I decided to try some Ultima WW+ on it ,nothing.Then some solvent based cleaner spraywax,nothing.Then some Clay Majic Blue ,nothing,waterspots still.I Had realized by then the spots were etched in.So out came the Meg's Ultimate Compound,and applied by hand on a couple of test spots,it worked water spots gone,paint smooth and glossy.

Now the car is well overdue for a polish and wax job,so I'm left with some questions.

Had I had some Waterspot remover at my disposal,would it been practical and effective to use on entire car?Would it strip off any lingering protection(LSP) on the paint,therefore requiring a quick spraywax a least?

Being that UC seemed to work well,does that mean that it is an effective paint cleaner as well as a compound?Or did it remove the spots through abrasion solely?Will using clay + UC eliminate the need for a separate paint cleaner or finishing with an AIO,so I can go straight to LSP?
How much UC should I use per panel,there are some washing swirls but they are not too heavy.Whats the minimum number of passes I should make,If I finish LSP ready what do I use to remove UC residue,ONR detail'er or IPA? I plan to use Ultima UPG+ for LSP.

I will only charge $75 for the wash clay polish and seal,exterior only,chrome wheels included .How would you approach this job,technique and process wise?
Feed back please

 

[Beerwulf76]

Ok so here goes the bump.

Too many ??? i n one post?Why won't anyone chime in on this?

 

[cmwsdw@gmail]

What color is the car? If its very dark at all UC may leave some having that your going to have to go back over with something finer to get rid of it. In my opinion I would just use a finer finishing polish if your just trying to get rid of the spots and not trying to actually correct any swirl marks or scratches.

Although I've not used it something like megs ultimate polish should get them out and be easy to work with. You also wouldn't have to worry about any hazing.

My black truck is always getting water spots on the hood and I use menzerna po85rd on a black pad on my da to get them out which is about as mild as a compound as you can get. You shouldnt have any trouble using megs UP. And hopefully you are doing this by machine or I feel pretty bad for your arms

 

[cmwsdw@gmail]

Oh and to the getting the residue off question. Some say its necessary some say its not. I've done it both ways and not noticed a difference either way. But if it makes you feel better just go back over it with an ipa. I've used prep-all as well.

 

[Baconz2012]

For removing water spots by hand without being too aggressive I like p21s Paintwork Cleanser. I used it on my uncles black escalade with sprinkler water spots. It's much better to use than UP. UP kicked my arm's a$$

 

[FUNX650]

Ok so here goes the bump.

Easy there...Big Fella!



-I'm trying to understand your restiveness, and the necessity for alacrity...
But:
Are you're alluding to AGO members being:
OH! So reticent at times?...

Speaking of times:
Your OP at...........10-29-2012, 09:44 PM
Your Bump post....10-30-2012, 09:57 PM

Total elapsed time = ..................13 minutes (triskaidekaphobic, perhaps?!?!)


RE:

Too many ??? i n one post?Why won't anyone chime in on this?

^^^Since you must of sensed it to be: Possibly^^^:dunno:
____________________________________________________________________________________________________

-I'm glad that's out of the way
(I'd wager that you are too!)
____________________________________________________________________________________________________

Due to:
-plenty of water spots from sprinklers.

You:
-washed with Gold Class with some ONR added in...the water spots remained
-I decided to try some Ultima WW+ on it ,nothing.
-Then some solvent based cleaner spraywax,nothing.
-Then some Clay Majic Blue ,nothing,waterspots still.
-I Had realized by then the spots were etched in.

Then you broke-out the:
-Meg's Ultimate Compound,and applied by hand on a couple of test spots,
it worked water spots gone,paint smooth and glossy.

^^^If it worked...Isn't that the remedy you're desiring?^^^

-Had I had some Waterspot remover at my disposal,would it been practical and effective to use on entire car?
Would it strip off any lingering protection(LSP) on the paint,therefore requiring a quick spraywax a least?

When you have a "Water-spot Remover"...And you're presented with the same/similar water-spotted vehicle(s)...
Try performing the: "Test-spot" with it...That will: 'tell the tale'.

-Being that UC seemed to work well,does that mean that it is an effective paint cleaner as well as a compound?
Or did it remove the spots through abrasion solely?

Isn't UC in all reality/actually: "cleaning" the paint---by nature of its abrasives...As evidenced by the removal of,
per your stating: "it worked water spots gone,paint smooth and glossy"

-Will using clay + UC eliminate the need for a sep, paint cleaner or finishing with an AIO...
so I can go straight to LSP?

If it were me, and I was satisfied with the resulting 'paint-finish-appearance' from the claying/UC processes...
I would then forego the use of other 'paint-cleaners'/AIO's...
And proceed to the LSP process(es).

**If not satisfied...A less aggressive polishing step would be required:
(M205, Menz 4000/4500, 3M Ultrfina...perhaps)

-How much UC should I use per panel,

Prime the pad, add a few pea-sized dollops at 12:00/3:00/6:00/9:00...additional UC when needed, thereafter.
Make sure to clean your pad after each panel---even more often sometimes!

-there are some washing s.wirls but they are not too heavy.
Whats the minimum number of passes I should make,

Your test-spot should give you a ball-park figure.
You can always stop to check your results when unsure.

-If I finish LSP ready what do I use to remove UC residue,ONR detail'er or IPA?
I plan to use Ultima UPG+ for LSP.

This is excellent advice! :xyxthumbs:

Oh and to the getting the residue off question. Some say its necessary some say its not. I've done it both ways and not noticed a difference either way. But if it makes you feel better just go back over it with an ipa. I've used prep-all as well.

-I will only charge $75 for the wash clay polish and seal,exterior only,chrome wheels included.
How would you approach this job,technique and process wise?

You know best what your market-area will bear...But:

ONLY $75 bucks for all of that work???

Happy Detailing!!



Bob

 

[Beerwulf76]

Easy there...Big Fella!



-I'm trying to understand your restiveness, and the necessity for alacrity...
But:
Are you're alluding to AGO members being:
OH! So reticent at times?...

Speaking of times:
Your OP at...........10-29-2012, 09:44 PM
Your Bump post....10-30-2012, 09:57 PM

Total elapsed time = ..................13 minutes (triskaidekaphobic, perhaps?!?!)


RE:

^^^Since you must of sensed it to be: Possibly^^^:dunno:
____________________________________________________________________________________________________

-I'm glad that's out of the way
(I'd wager that you are too!)
____________________________________________________________________________________________________



Happy Detailing!!



Bob

First of all Bob ,very funny,but missed one key fact.The elapsed time was actually 24:13,you missed that one was on the 29th and the other on the 30th!

I forgot to mention the vehicle is a metallic dark blue(cobalt?)

I plan to use my PC UDM with 5" LC orange light cutting pads.I was was able to finish LSP ready with those on my black Corolla.I can follow with XMT 360 AOI if needed though.

Only 75 because it's a neighbor and a friend,not to mention they are people who are not aware of the true value $ of work being done.I did receive a tip from them last time though.I recently polished out another neighbors Pathfinder with XMT 360 and topped with UPG for only $75!Took me about around 11 hours to complete!Not profitable but I am mainly a hobbyist with aspirations of being a detail'er. I gives me a sense of satisfaction to practice paint correction, see end result and improvement.

Thank you for responding and suggestions,quite helpful.Nice use of vocabulary by the way ,you have now expanded mine.:dblthumb2:

 

[FUNX650]

First of all Bob ,very funny,but missed one key fact.The elapsed time was actually 24:13,you missed that one was on the 29th and the other on the 30th!

I noticed that...became too late to edit...So if you'll allow for amends (?):

Excuse me while I: 'Whip this out'! ~ Cleavon Little



No-No...No need to be afraid Folks...



I was talking about this:





Bob

 

[Beerwulf76]

Excuse me while I: 'Whip this out'! ~ Cleavon Little



No-No...No need to be afraid Folks...



I was talking about this:





Bob

Nicely played.Clever.Respect.rops:

 

[BobbyG]

So I washed my neighbors 20011 Dodge charger today. It was quite dirty with plenty of water spots from sprinklers. I washed with Gold Class with some ONR added in.I did not notice until drying the vehicle that the water spots remained as before washing.

So I decided to try some Ultima WW+ on it ,nothing.Then some solvent based cleaner spraywax,nothing.Then some Clay Majic Blue ,nothing,waterspots still.I Had realized by then the spots were etched in.So out came the Meg's Ultimate Compound,and applied by hand on a couple of test spots,it worked water spots gone,paint smooth and glossy.

Many water spots tend to "etch themselves" into the finish. Minerals in the water are the main culprit but droplets of water also attract dust and any airborne particles which compound the problem....no pun intended ..

Here is some great reading on water spots that might help...

Water Spots

3 - Types of Water Spots - Type I, Type II and Type III

How To Remove Sprinkler Water Spots

How to remove water spots by hand

Tips for removing Type I Water Spots

Now the car is well overdue for a polish and wax job,so I'm left with some questions.

Had I had some Waterspot remover at my disposal,would it been practical and effective to use on entire car?Would it strip off any lingering protection(LSP) on the paint,therefore requiring a quick spraywax a least?

If the spots are all over the finish then I would say yes, use it where the problem exists. After using a waterspot remover I would go over the area with a paint cleaner to ensure a clean and well prepped surface...

Being that UC seemed to work well,does that mean that it is an effective paint cleaner as well as a compound?Or did it remove the spots through abrasion solely?Will using clay + UC eliminate the need for a separate paint cleaner or finishing with an AIO,so I can go straight to LSP?

Personally, I would not consider Meguiar's Ultimate Compound a paint cleaner. If you do use it follow up with Meguiar's Ultimate Polish or comparable equivalent. Once you've completed the compound and polishing, wash and dry the car before applying your protection products....

How much UC should I use per panel,there are some washing swirls but they are not too heavy.Whats the minimum number of passes I should make,If I finish LSP ready what do I use to remove UC residue,ONR detail'er or IPA? I plan to use Ultima UPG+ for LSP.

You should use what ever pad and product combination that reaches your goal. The number of passes are determined by your success criteria...

I will only charge $75 for the wash clay polish and seal,exterior only,chrome wheels included .How would you approach this job,technique and process wise?
Feed back please

You're short-changing yourself for all that work. I would easily double that charge for quality work....

 

[Beerwulf76]

Many water spots tend to "etch themselves" into the finish. Minerals in the water are the main culprit but droplets of water also attract dust and any airborne particles which compound the problem....no pun intended ..

Here is some great reading on water spots that might help...

Water Spots

3 - Types of Water Spots - Type I, Type II and Type III

How To Remove Sprinkler Water Spots

How to remove water spots by hand

Tips for removing Type I Water Spots




If the spots are all over the finish then I would say yes, use it where the problem exists. After using a waterspot remover I would go over the area with a paint cleaner to ensure a clean and well prepped surface...




Personally, I would not consider Meguiar's Ultimate Compound a paint cleaner. If you do use it follow up with Meguiar's Ultimate Polish or comparable equivalent. Once you've completed the compound and polishing, wash and dry the car before applying your protection products....



You should use what ever pad and product combination that reaches your goal. The number of passes are determined by your success criteria...




You're short-changing yourself for all that work. I would easily double that charge for quality work....

Thank you Bobby G. for your input.I do have some Ultimate Polish,but would rather finish with XMT 360 to cover LSP step.I'm really hoping to finish lsp ready with the UC,wishful thinking perhaps.I just don't know how much more than $75 I'm comfortable charging.Many people are just not aware of the value of paint correction alone,meaning no interior work will be done.

 

[vegas911gts]

Thank you Bobby G. for your input.I do have some Ultimate Polish,but would rather finish with XMT 360 to cover LSP step.I'm really hoping to finish lsp ready with the UC,wishful thinking perhaps.I just don't know how much more than $75 I'm comfortable charging.Many people are just not aware of the value of paint correction alone,meaning no interior work will be done.

I'm not a pro, but if you're working on a car for that many hours they don't need to be a pro either to know that they are getting a good value.