New vehicle - WON'T be garage kept

master_photog

master_photog

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Hey guys, I have a new vehicle and would like to know what my best protection products are and how you would go about caring for a non-garage kept vehicle.

This will not be a daily driver, but will be exposed to the great Midwest weather.

I'd like to know what products you would use and what frequency in order for the truck to maintain it's new condition as long as possible.

Thanks for your help!!

http://www.cs2photography.com/new_truck.jpg
 
master_photog said:
Hey guys, I have a new vehicle and would like to know what my best protection products are and how you would go about caring for a non-garage kept vehicle.

This will not be a daily driver, but will be exposed to the great Midwest weather.

I'd like to know what products you would use and what frequency in order for the truck to maintain it's new condition as long as possible.

Thanks for your help!!

http://www.cs2photography.com/new_truck.jpg
Click to expand...

You do know that Tundra has no clear coat? Not that it matters, but you don't want that single stage paint to oxidize. If it was my truck sitting out 24/7 I would apply Optimum Opti Coat. If you like to wash every week and apply a wax/sealant every month or two, I would go with Blackfire Wet Diamond Sealant or Menzerna Power Lock. Congrats on your new truck.
 
I agree with opti coat 2.0 or my choice would be optimum spray wax a little goes a long way
 
My son has an "outside" 2012 white Tacoma. I did the prep and applied Opticoat to every outside surface except glass when it was new last January. It looks like the day I did it with a simple 2 bucket wash and it beads so well, a leaf blower will dry the whole thing without spots.

I also did a metallic gray 12 Honda CRV the week before for my daughter-in-law. Same deal, like the day they bought them. It's not as hard to do as you may read. I totally psyched myself out about it because it's permanent but it's pretty easy once you get going. You will probably use less than 1/2 the syringe. I called Optimum and Dr. Ghodussi himself called me back to answer my questions and give me some factoids (it takes 30 days to fully cure for instance). I can't recommend it highly enough!

They are right about Toyota white, single stage, no clear. We were lucky enough to get one from Flagstaff where the dealer had yet to install any optional swirls. Light polish (for gloss only) IPA wipe down and good to go. Nice truck you have BTW.
 
Rayaz said:
My son has an "outside" 2012 white Tacoma. I did the prep and applied Opticoat to every outside surface except glass when it was new last January. It looks like the day I did it with a simple 2 bucket wash and it beads so well, a leaf blower will dry the whole thing without spots.

I also did a metallic gray 12 Honda CRV the week before for my daughter-in-law. Same deal, like the day they bought them. It's not as hard to do as you may read. I totally psyched myself out about it because it's permanent but it's pretty easy once you get going. You will probably use less than 1/2 the syringe. I called Optimum and Dr. Ghodussi himself called me back to answer my questions and give me some factoids (it takes 30 days to fully cure for instance). I can't recommend it highly enough!

They are right about Toyota white, single stage, no clear. We were lucky enough to get one from Flagstaff where the dealer had yet to install any optional swirls. Light polish (for gloss only) IPA wipe down and good to go. Nice truck you have BTW.
Click to expand...


Thanks Rayaz, I know what you mean about "totally psyching yourself out". I am looking for a competent person to do this in my area due to being uncomfortable with the potential of getting bad results if I do it myself. I'll check out some youtube videos and try to determine a comfort level of applying myself.

Thanks!!
 
There's no doubt about OC being the best route for protection. If you are more comfortable with conventional waxes or sealants and don't mind maintaining the finish 3-4 times per year, I'd go with DG 501/601 as a cleaner, then top it with Collinite, 845 if working by hand or 476 if by machine. IMO, that combo is about as bulletproof as you can get for a DD without going the coating route.

Bill
 
Rsurfer said:
You do know that Tundra has no clear coat? .
Click to expand...

Just curious, is this true of all Toyotas? I have a 2006 black RAV4 that is used as a DD, but garage kept. So far, paint has held up pretty well with no evident oxidation.
 
KneeDragr said:
Where did you get this information?
Click to expand...
GS2011 said:
Just curious, is this true of all Toyotas? I have a 2006 black RAV4 that is used as a DD, but garage kept. So far, paint has held up pretty well with no evident oxidation.
Click to expand...
Typical of a Toyota paint-code: 3C8
Doesn't tell you a whole lot about the paint-system!!

1.) OEM's issue TSB's for their dealerships' collision/refinishing departments, that will include the
paint-codes and refinishing-codes from 4-5 paint manufacturers/vendors.
Therein lies the paint systems' specific-types: SS vs. CC

2.) Another way: If the Toyota's paint description includes any of the following words...
it is quite indicative of having a CC top-film:
-Mica; Metallic; Metallic Cladding; Pearl; Frost Pearl; Pearl Mica; Opalescent

Examples:
033 White...No CC
042 White Pearl Mica...CC
051 Diamond White Pearl...CC

202 Black...No CC
204 Black Metallic...CC
205 Satin Black Metallic...CC

BTW:3C8= Wine Red Metallic...CC

3.) No doubt there may be exceptions to the above...If still unsure:
-"Test-Spot" Toyota-paint using your polish on a contrasting color applicator/pad/cloth...


Too bad Toyota's paint-codes (on the placard, driver's-side door jamb) are not as easy to
discern as, say, GM's designation/inclusion of: BC/CC...(usually on placard inside of the glovebox).



:)

Bob
 
GS2011 said:
Just curious, is this true of all Toyotas? I have a 2006 black RAV4 that is used as a DD, but garage kept. So far, paint has held up pretty well with no evident oxidation.
Click to expand...

It's only the super whites..the pearls have clear coat.
 
BillyJack said:
There's no doubt about OC being the best route for protection. If you are more comfortable with conventional waxes or sealants and don't mind maintaining the finish 3-4 times per year, I'd go with DG 501/601 as a cleaner, then top it with Collinite, 845 if working by hand or 476 if by machine. IMO, that combo is about as bulletproof as you can get for a DD without going the coating route.

Bill
Click to expand...




Bill, I like this approach for now, since we're getting close to winter, this process seems like I can eliminate a couple steps when comparing to the opti coat 2.0 route.

I'll have a little more time this Spring to really take my time and consider the opti 2.0 application.

I currently have a lot of Meguiars M20 Polymer Sealant, can this be used instead of the Collinite 476 or is the Collinite a much better choice in this scenario of a new, non-garage kept vehicle?

I do have the PC7424XP too!!

Thanks!!
 
Wow, no wonder it oxidizes so fast. I would definitely use something with strong UV inhibitors, even if you use a ceramic coating. Id probably apply Optimum Spray wax every wash myself.
 
M20 is a decent product, but IMO it's no match for 845 or 476 in durability. Since it has some cleaning properties, it could be a good choice as a first step, then once it cures, layer some Collinite over it.
My winter beater is an Olds Intrigue, metallic red, that sits outside 24/7 in Pittsburgh PA. It's not North Dakota, but we get our share of winter weather and due to the hilly terrain, salt is spread in great abundance. For the past two winters, I've done a machine polish first, followed by a hand-applied coat of 845, typically done in early November. The few washes it gets during the winter are done with ONR. Snow slides off easily and I've had beading well into March. This year, I acquired some 4" pads for my GG DA which fit into the 476 can, so we have one coat of 476 on already. Later this month I'll rub in another coat and I expect I'll be good for the entire winter. If we get a warm day or two in January, I may do a quick pass with OCW as a booster. My wife's BMW already has one pass with DG 501, since I love how it cleans the white paint. It too will get some 476 before the weather turns permanently sour. I've tried a bunch of waxes and sealants over the years, but nothing has ever lasted an entire winter but Collinite. IMO, it's the best 20 bucks you can ever spend when protection is paramount.

Bill
 
BillyJack said:
M20 is a decent product, but IMO it's no match for 845 or 476 in durability. Since it has some cleaning properties, it could be a good choice as a first step, then once it cures, layer some Collinite over it.
My winter beater is an Olds Intrigue, metallic red, that sits outside 24/7 in Pittsburgh PA. It's not North Dakota, but we get our share of winter weather and due to the hilly terrain, salt is spread in great abundance. For the past two winters, I've done a machine polish first, followed by a hand-applied coat of 845, typically done in early November. The few washes it gets during the winter are done with ONR. Snow slides off easily and I've had beading well into March. This year, I acquired some 4" pads for my GG DA which fit into the 476 can, so we have one coat of 476 on already. Later this month I'll rub in another coat and I expect I'll be good for the entire winter. If we get a warm day or two in January, I may do a quick pass with OCW as a booster. My wife's BMW already has one pass with DG 501, since I love how it cleans the white paint. It too will get some 476 before the weather turns permanently sour. I've tried a bunch of waxes and sealants over the years, but nothing has ever lasted an entire winter but Collinite. IMO, it's the best 20 bucks you can ever spend when protection is paramount.

Bill
Click to expand...


Bill, is the DG 501 that you're referring to the Marine RV polish? This is the only product that appears when I do a search for the DG 501 cleaner or Duragloss 501 - either one I search, I get the Marine RV cleaner. If this is not the product you're referring to, can you provide me a link to the DG 501? I'll be ordering the 476 as well.

Thanks!!

Chuck
 
OK guys, here is an update to the UNgarage kept Tundra. I spent 7 hours washing, claying and waxing last weekend.

I applied Meguiars #20 Polymer by hand and the truck has been outside, undriven since then.

I'd like to know what your next course of action would be for the winter. My shipment just came in from Autogeek and would appreciate your thoughts and what works best for you when preparing that armor for an outside parked vehicle.

The first product is Collinite's pre wax cleaner. Would you use this to take off my Polymer #20 (for a fresh start)? Or would you hang on to this for future use?
z6.jpg



Next is the recommended Duragloss 501. Would you use this with the Meguiars #20 Polymer or would it be best used after applying Collinite's pre wax cleaner or would you skip using this product based on the way the truck stands now (with the Meguiars #20 Polymer)?
z1.jpg


Now for the good stuff (so I've heard, haven't used this product as of yet). Can this go on with the Polymer #20 or should the Polymer be cleaned with the Collinite and then go with the Duragloss then this Collinite 476S?
z2.jpg



Since I have the PC7424XP, what pads would you use base on the ones below with what products from above?
z3.jpg

z4.jpg

z5.jpg
 
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