Luggage rack removal: 2005 Trailblazer...

[Hoytman]

...Anyone ever tried to remove the rails, that are bolted to the top of the SUV for compounding/polishing work?

(Some of you may be asking yourself, "Why not just do it by hand." The short answer is, that if you seen how bad this thing was you know that doing it by hand would be just shy of impossible. Let's put it this way, it'll take much more time than I'd want to attempt. I already have way more hours in just the roof than I ever anticipated.)

From my other thread most of you are aware of the project I'm working on. As of right now I have no less than 9 hours just in compounding the roof of this SUV. I've made virtually two passes on in with M105 and a wool padon a rotary and I'm just finishing up a total 3rd pass with a Meguiar's 6.5inch yellow polishing pad on my Dynabrade attachment using M105. It is looking great. I will go over it once more with the same polishing pad, but this time I'll be using M205. I may use M205 once more on a finishing pad, and then seal/wax it. Depending on what I decide to do I'll have at least 5 total passes and maybe 6 on the roof of this Trailblazer (black).

I slid the runners back and forth out of my way, but I can't reach what is under the rails that run lengthwise with the vehicle and it's bugging me. Actually, it's going to stick out like a sore thumb if I can't remove them.

I'm usually not afrait to tear into something, but this time I'm not really sure what I'm getting into and I don't need any added work.

In the rails that are bolted to the top of the truck are some torx head bolts, but I don't know if they're self tapping, or if they're held on by a nut that may be hiding above the headliner inside the vehicle. If there's a nut above the headliner on the inside of the truck then I am fine with leaving this task alone. If the rails can be removed easily I'm going to take them off.

Anyone have any idea on this?Feed back please

 

[1oldsalt]

Shouldn't be a problem. I have an Avalanche and have taken mine off a few times. It makes life a whole lot easier.
There are nutserts in the roof. I can't imagine the Trailblazer being different.
One thing to note, be sure to put silicone on the threads when putting the roof rack back on. If you don't water can leak in and ruin the headliner.

 

[Hoytman]

Shouldn't be a problem. I have an Avalanche and have taken mine off a few times. It makes life a whole lot easier.
There are nutserts in the roof. I can't imagine the Trailblazer being different.
One thing to note, be sure to put silicone on the threads when putting the roof rack back on. If you don't water can leak in and ruin the headliner.

Nutserts? Not familiar with those. Please elaborate, but I'm not thrilled with a possibility of water leaking in.

 

[iminaquagmire]

Nutserts are just threaded inserts that are pressed into panels and such sort of like rivets. I can't speak to the Trailblazer but if indeed there are nutserts, I wouldn't worry one bit about unbolting the rails. Its no big deal to put a squirt of silicone in the holes to prevent water intrusion. It'll also coat the threads and keep them from corroding.

 

[FUNX650]

Hi Bill...

-Is there a plastic cone-shaped cover on the front of each side of the roof-rack assembly?

If so:
-While inserting a flat screw-driver blade into the slot, squeeze the cover off with your hand.
-There should be a screw underneath both of those covers...Take them out.
-Then it's just a matter of pulling up the tabs on both sides of the assembly, slide the crossbars forward and out
-Take the remaing bolts out of the track with your torx wrench.
-Then lift the tracks up and out of the way.

Keep on :buffing: !!!



Bob

 

[Hoytman]

Hi Bill...

-Is there a plastic cone-shaped cover on the front of each side of the roof-rack assembly?

If so:
-While inserting a flat screw-driver blade into the slot, squeeze the cover off with your hand.
-There should be a screw underneath both of those covers...Take them out.
-Then it's just a matter of pulling up the tabs on both sides of the assembly, slide the crossbars forward and out
-Take the remaing bolts out of the track with your torx wrench.
-Then lift the tracks up and out of the way.

Keep on :buffing: !!!



Bob

Yes, and I will check into this before going any further with my M205. Lookin' sweet for a SUV that was in a fire.

 

[ziggo99]

Wait...are you wanting to remove the cross rails that run the width of the vehicle, or do you want to remove the whole nine years?

 

[Hoytman]

Wait...are you wanting to remove the cross rails that run the width of the vehicle, or do you want to remove the whole nine years?

The entire nine yards...lol!

I've got the crossmembers out now. Thanks, Bob!:xyxthumbs:

There was a slight glitch (sp?) in getting to everything, but that's another thread. Let's just say I just about wore my fingernails to a frazzle.

Anyhow, the crossmembers are off and I'd like to take the rails off. It's an after-thought I know, but I should have taken everything off to begin with. Never crossed my mind though, and those things were in my way...a lot. LOL!

The only other issue I have with removing them...well two issues...is I'm not sure I have a torx bit at home that'll fit and I already looked in Dad's toolbox.

There's no problem with taking off the rails too? Looks to be 4-5 torx screws from from to back and it comes off in one assembly it appears. (Now I'll post my other thread.)

 

[Hoytman]

I was hoping to knock this roof out by tonight, but I think I'll try and round-up a torx bit before morning. Might as well do it right! Should I get/do I need some silicone as well for the threads of the screws? I hope not.

 

[1oldsalt]

I was hoping to knock this roof out by tonight, but I think I'll try and round-up a torx bit before morning. Might as well do it right! Should I get/do I need some silicone as well for the threads of the screws? I hope not.

Yes. As I stated before you need to put silicone on the threads when putting things back together. You will see they had a sealant on them when you remove them.
Automotive or marine silicone is what you want not household. Get the kind for sealing windshields and such. It's 5 bucks a tube at ACE.

 

[FUNX650]

The entire nine yards...lol!

I've got the crossmembers out now. Thanks, Bob!:xyxthumbs:

There was a slight glitch (sp?) in getting to everything, but that's another thread. Let's just say I just about wore my fingernails to a frazzle.

Anyhow, the crossmembers are off and I'd like to take the rails off. It's an after-thought I know, but I should have taken everything off to begin with. Never crossed my mind though, and those things were in my way...a lot. LOL!

The only other issue I have with removing them...well two issues...is I'm not sure I have a torx bit at home that'll fit and I already looked in Dad's toolbox.

There's no problem with taking off the rails too? Looks to be 4-5 torx screws from from to back and it comes off in one assembly it appears. (Now I'll post my other thread.)

No problem taking off the rails/track after removing the 10 torx-head (like this:*?) screws.

One of your local hardware stores should have a set of torx-bits. Perhaps:
-The one on Central Ave. in your hometown
-Wilson Hardware, on Main St., Eaton

BTW: Unless you're buffing indoors...
Better hurry-up it some ...
It's supposed to rain around your neck of the woods tomorrow.


Bob

 

[Hoytman]

No problem taking off the rails/track after removing the 10 torx-head (like this:*?) screws.

One of your local hardware stores should have a set of torx-bits. Perhaps:
-The one on Central Ave. in your hometown
-Wilson Hardware, on Main St., Eaton

BTW: Unless you're buffing indoors...
Better hurry-up it some ...
It's supposed to rain around your neck of the woods tomorrow.


Bob

I got a late start this morning at around 11am. The first order of business was to locate a torx bit that would fit and I was informed that Dad had a set and that I had looked in the wrong place.

The rails came off easily, and should be a breeze to put back together. I'm going to scrub all of the pieces in the morning with some APC+, wipe with alcohol, and either apply UTTG, or Solution Finish and let them dry before replacing them. I may even go to Fastenal and see if I can get some stainless steel replacement screws as the 10 or so that I removed are quite rusty. The scews will not be seen, but they just bug me being all rusty.

As I said earlier, removing the rails was an after thought and it turns out there was a lot of crud underneath them. I blew off what I could with an air hose, then soaked a micro-fiber towel in some UWW+ and laid it on top of each section to soften up the grime, then wipe all of the dirt off. Once both sides were cleaned I then clayed the paint under the railing, compounded with M105 then polished with M205...even the areas that probably won't be uncovered again. Those areas are also going to receive some sort of sealant/wax of some sort before replacing the luggage rack (It's just easier to seal/wax everything at once with the rails removed).

I had to leave the project for awhile, but I'm going to get back at it after supper. I only have an area about 2x4 left to polish and aside from checking my work in the sun and getting some photo's the top will be finished.

Removing the rails as an after though set me back at least 3 1/2 hours which is going to put me around the 19-22 hour mark on this roof by the time I am finished this evening. I know this seems like an extreme amount of time to put into just a roof on a vehicle, and I agree that it is more time involved than I wanted. However, it is what it is and the results are dramatic.

I wish I could tell you it will be perfect, however, that will not be the case. You have to keep in mind I was trying to take this paint to its best possible potential without having to repaint it. There are a couple of areas where bird bombs have etched it beyond even wet sanding, and some chemical staining has done the same. I do not have a paint guage so everything has been touch and go with an extreme amount of caution. When I can get a chance to post pictures and video I think the transformation will speak for itself. At least I hope it does.

 

[FUNX650]

I may even go to Fastenal and see if I can get some stainless steel replacement screws

These are probably metric-sized...
Examples: M6 X 40; M6 X 50

:idea:

Take an old one with you.




Bob

 

[Hoytman]

These are probably metric-sized...
Examples: M6 X 40; M6 X 50

:idea:

Take an old one with you.




Bob

I had planned on it, but appreciate the reminder. Could you call and remind me again in the morning.

The top is finished. Wait! At least it is without being able to pull it into the sun to check. Honestly, I did hold a 500 watt halogen on it and it looked good given some, what I believe, are ash marks. Who knows?

I almost started the hood, but I have some concerns.

There are some areas that are going to need some touch-up paint I'm sure. This would require more time to apply touch-up paint, drying time over several weeks or months...and winter is coming...which puts me into spring time. Then there are areas on the hood that may not be fixable. So, on less than perfect paint I'm not so sure about getting aggressive with M105/M205, but at the same time that combo may be the only way to cut through the staining which concerns me almost as much as the scratchng.

I debated and debated about just using a cleaner wax, but the problem is that I don't think it's going to cut through the oxidation enough to get a shine and fill the swirls. If I cut it out, then I'm probably going to be left looking at marks that I can't fix and that will stick out like a sore thumb.

In reality, I'm making the paint look as good as it can, but it most likely needs re-painting...The entire SUV. I'm going to try and upload some photos for you guys.