2004 Mazda RX8 - Never Detailed!

addysdaddy

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A truly neglected car. Probably washed 2x/year a best - never detailed.

2 bucket wash
Iron X decon
P21s TAW decon

Nanoskin medium grit 6"
Wolfgang Poly clay
Klasse AIO wipe down to pass the plastic bag test

M105 using Flex 3401 & Blue Hybrid Pad
M205 using 7424xp w/flat white LC pad

Menzerna Top Inspection wipedown
3 coats - BFCS

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Sorry no...not that it didn't occur to me but my nephew arrived late and I felt I was working against the clock and we hadn't even started. I only took the after pix because I knew Nick would kill me if I didn't.
 
Car looks great and nice choice of an LSP for sure, looks like the paint is soaking wettIm the MAN

With it being an Japanese car I assume the paint was fairly soft so the correction was pretty straight forward then? How long did this take you, I know the 3x's BFCS took 3 hrs itself with the curing time and all.
 
Car looks great and nice choice of an LSP for sure, looks like the paint is soaking wettIm the MAN

With it being an Japanese car I assume the paint was fairly soft so the correction was pretty straight forward then? How long did this take you, I know the 3x's BFCS took 3 hrs itself with the curing time and all.

Actually the paint was extremely hard. I really only wanted to do a one step so my first test spot was UC with a white hybrid pad on the Flex 3401, thinking the paint was soft. Wrong. Next up was UC with a blue hybrid - a little better but you could still see a bunch of imperfections. Finally I went for M105 and blue hybrid pad, (afraid of the orange hybrid pad w/o having a paint gauge to measure the clear coat thickness) which took away about 80-85% of the junk. Even after applying M205 to that test spot, I could still see some residual stuff, but frankly it looked really good and I'm a firm believer in "do no harm." So it was surprising but fortunately Nick gave me a heads up on the Mazda clear coat hardness so I was sort of prepared in the back of my mind.

Yeah, I'm a huge fan of the BFCS and it's twin sister from WG. Todd has written that ideally wait 60 min between applications but it was getting late so between the first and 2nd coat, we waited 30 min and then had my nephew wait a full hour for the 3rd and final coat. According to Todd, it's about 95% "ready" in 15 minutes, so ...

In term of time, 3.5 hrs to wash, decon, clay & to apply KAIO (let me strongly suggest you implement this step in your process if not doing so already - makes a HUGE difference and is easy to do). Another 3.5 hrs to compound and polish - keeping in mind we had two people of DAs at the same time. We worked small areas because of the poor condition but the payoff we pretty big. It was a very long day. My nephew was truly blown away with the final result - it was a great day with him!
 
Thanks for the info and now its up to your nephew to keep it looking good.....along with always checking the oil in that thing and revving the motor before shutting it down!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
Right, however I wouldn't want to bet on that leopard changing it's spots. Glad I could help him and really enjoyed the time together.
 
For a neglected car, it turned out great. Bet he's happy now and might wash it 3 times a year.
 
He just sent me a thank you card for all my help - payment in full has been received. What a great kid! :dblthumb2:
 
Can you explain to me the purpose of using KAIO before compounding? I'm pretty new to this and am quite confused :confused: thanks


-Beach
 
Can you explain to me the purpose of using KAIO before compounding? I'm pretty new to this and am quite confused :confused: thanks


-Beach

After claying the car, take a plastic bag and test the paint. (see article link below) Chances are you'll still be able to feel containments in the surface. By applying KAIO by hand with a damp MF towel, it serves as a final cleaner allowing the surface to pass the plastic bag test. This is very important since you only want to begin compounding/polishing on a totally clean surface. IME, KAIO is the best cleanser out there and the fact you can do it by hand makes it quick and easy. Once containment free, break out your polisher of choice and have at it. :xyxthumbs:

(http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...nspect-above-surface-bonded-contaminants.html)
 
Thanks for the reply Addysdaddy. So if i understand correctly, by applying KAIO after claybar, it removes what is left of the surface contaminants?

-Beach
 
Thanks for the reply Addysdaddy. So if i understand correctly, by applying KAIO after claybar, it removes what is left of the surface contaminants?

-Beach

Yes it does and it's super easy & fast. I highly recommend trying it.
 
KAIO is a great product after clay barring, cleans whatever is left over and gives you a nice little base to build upon, using KSG is a great product that has seemed to have been forgotten heren I still have/use KSG and will always have it. Not only does it produce a great shine but when you apply the 2nd coat after waiting 12 hrs it will last you a good long while! Besides that, adding 1 oz of KSG into your quick detailer made with your favorite rinseless wash makes a "super quick detailer", so its got another use!

Sent from my SPH-M930 using AG Online
 
After claying the car, take a plastic bag and test the paint. (see article link below) Chances are you'll still be able to feel containments in the surface. By applying KAIO by hand with a damp MF towel, it serves as a final cleaner allowing the surface to pass the plastic bag test. This is very important since you only want to begin compounding/polishing on a totally clean surface. IME, KAIO is the best cleanser out there and the fact you can do it by hand makes it quick and easy. Once containment free, break out your polisher of choice and have at it. :xyxthumbs:

(http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...nspect-above-surface-bonded-contaminants.html)

Are you using the KAIO for the chemical cleaning properties because the product doesn't contain abrasives? Explain to me why you would use a product that lays down protection before using a compound or polish? Isn't that working backwards? If you can still feel contaminants on the surface after using a clay bar then you didn't work it right or long enough. The clay bar or clay alternative removes above surface contaminants when used properly.
 
Are you using the KAIO for the chemical cleaning properties because the product doesn't contain abrasives? Explain to me why you would use a product that lays down protection before using a compound or polish? Isn't that working backwards? If you can still feel contaminants on the surface after using a clay bar then you didn't work it right or long enough. The clay bar or clay alternative removes above surface contaminants when used properly.

Yes, my sole purpose for using KAIO is for it's chemical cleaning properties which it excels at. The fact that it lays down some sealant is a an added bonus, though after compounding & polishes my suspicion would be that all of that protection is gone. When I'm finished polishing the car, I'm going to apply my favorite LSP anyway, so I'm not losing anything. Note that if you like the sealant properties in KAIO, they actually make a sealant only product that's gotten good reviews. But for my money, either BFCS or it's WG sister but that's another conversation.

Keep in mind that gloss comes from working from a clean surface. And it wasn't until recently that I actually read the directions (what a novel idea) and learned that KAIO can be applied via a damp MF towel. Makes the process go much faster then being applied by machine and it's not necessary for these purposes - save that for your compounding / polishing. Again don't take my word for it. Clay the paint and test with a plastic bag. Then apply some KAIO to the same panel and retest. Trust me, there will be a world of difference and you'll begin the next phase of correction on a perfectly clean surface. It's one of those WOW things you can do that takes very little effort.
 
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