That may be a great test for me this spring....I will definitely try shorter run segments with 205. I already get good results on my DD vehicles but this may give me a slightly better result now! This, added with the trick of adding a bit of baby oil to my pads for use on 105 might just keep me stuck with these twins for a long time! Thanks again Michael for your feedback.
Meguiars M100? (not M101) what's this?
- Thread starter g26er
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That may be a great test for me this spring....I will definitely try shorter run segments with 205. I already get good results on my DD vehicles but this may give me a slightly better result now! This, added with the trick of adding a bit of baby oil to my pads for use on 105 might just keep me stuck with these twins for a long time! Thanks again Michael for your feedback.
M100 is available in 32oz and 1 gallon sizes, with MSRP set at $24.99 and $66.00 respectively.
Can someone please explain why these labels say different things on them? I'm confused, or did I miss something? Both say professional, and both say 100, but the rest isn't the same.
Perhaps it's an error?
It's all in the details...
I just clicked on the Meg's sight and both bottles do say the same thing. I hadn't clicked on their (Meguiar's) site when I posted that. I just went off of the first page of this thread which still isn't right...but at least we know they're not two different products.
M100 Professional Pro Speed Compound it is then...
M100 Professional Pro Speed Compound it is then...
Michael Stoops
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- Sep 14, 2009
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Well, if anyone is burning through their clear coat and blaming just the compound being used, they need to seriously re-evaluate their technique. Even damp sanding with 3000 grit finishing media and then properly compounding out those sanding marks, when done properly, won't exceed that 0.5 mil limit of maximum film removal recommended by almost every major manufacturer today.
Nope, it's not a variation of M105 Ultra Cut Compound, from which Ultimate Compound is derived - far from it. Even though this is still SMAT technology, it's a whole different abrasive set (as is M101 vs M105/Ultimate Compound) and it's a solvent based compound like M101, not water based like M105/Ultimate Compound.
But really, if you're happy with M105 or Ultimate Compound, and you're primarily using a DA for correction, you may well never feel a need for M100. That's fine.
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What would be the benefit of either water or solvent base be? I mean, to the end user, what's the difference? Thanks.
Danube
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- Jan 11, 2012
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99% of us have no idea what is the difference between solvent and water based compounds/abrasives ( nor we are interested to know that, apart from what that means practically, when we polish a vehicle) ... We can only judge by the results and 'behavior' of a compound we are working with.
I have extensively tested both M101 and M105. The only difference in the result that I have found (and I believe the other detailers would agree) is in the amount of cut and obviously a difference in working time.
I am a great fan of UC, but am unable to see any significant difference when comparing it with M101 or M105, apart from the amount of cut. I believe that the M100 would be no different in that regard.
I use UC with both rotary and DA.
:hungry:
FUNX650
New member
- Dec 1, 2010
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Never meant to imply it was solely the "compound's fault"...
I've just seen too many posts where folks have 'burned-through' the CC paint film using
'less aggressive' compounds...even polishes, at times.
(And it must be noted:
There are a number of other folks that do not post their CC paint-film disasters!!)
IMO...
Sure...Along with technique:
Machine, pad, and product selections are also important.
BTW...(and using yourdamp sanding example):
What would be the reason(s) for using a 1200 grit sanding mark removing compound,
such as M100, to remove: 3000 grit finishing media sanding marks?
[Sometimes (IMHO): Speed (of cut) Kills (CC paint-film)]
Also..."when done properly, won't exceed that 0.5 mil limit"
-EPTG ownership? Not so for everyone.
-0.5 mil limit? Not every vehicle is a "Show Car".
Not saying that M100 (or even M101, M105) is 'bad' ...
They do have their places in the: Vehicle-'correction'-crazy World, IMHO.
Afterall...
-I AM, and have been, (for over 50 years, I'll add), a Meguiar's products user...
Even a fanboy as the lingo goes.
-Ergo: I've discovered that by my following the directions and recommendations, that goes along
with each Meguiar's product; coupled with the best techniques/practices of which I was capable;
yielded the results that were satisfactory for all owners of the vehicles I have 'worked-on'.
-Have I strayed from these directions/recommendations/best-practices before?
Ya Darn Tootin'!
-Were the results always satisfactory?
Not on your Life!
However this post containing: Just My Opinions...may be interpreted:
-I, for one, Mr. Stoops, do appreciate your input here at AGO!!! Thanks.
Bob
Michael Stoops
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- Sep 14, 2009
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Honestly, whether a compound is solvent or water based is, to the end user, of little consequence in and of itself. What does matter is what abrasive set can be used with what system. As revolutionary as M105 is/was (it's a water based compound, by the way) there are those who will tell you without hesitation that M101 blows it away. But that's more to do with the abrasive set in M101 than the mere fact that it's solvent based. There are other solvent based compounds on the market (some sold here on AG) but they don't hold a candle to M101, primarily due to the abrasives. Some abrasives work better in one system than the other, so that ultimately determines whether the compound is solvent or water based. Oh, and for the record, even a water based compound can contain solvent, so don't get too hung up on this one technical aspect of the product.
What would be the benefit of either water or solvent base be? I mean, to the end user, what's the difference? Thanks.
I think your observation about differences in cut is valid, and there's no doubt that this is the biggest user observable distinction between them when doing fairly straight forward DA or even light rotary correction on swirled paint. But only UC was really developed for that specific application. Step into the body shop world, where M101 and M105 are targeted, and things change a bit. But again, for the purposes of 99% (or more) of the folks who frequent detailing forums, that's a moot point. There's a good reason why we use UC in our Saturday Classes here at Meguiar's - the stuff just flat out works with a DA and a good polishing pad. In the years that UC has been available, and with all the different cars that come through our training garage, only twice have we really had to step up to something stronger to fix swirls, etch marks, etc. And that includes on Audis, C6 Corvettes, Benzes, BMWs, you name it. But so many people think that if you can buy the product at Walmart, there's no way it can possibly be as good as a "pro" product. Too bad for them!
You're absolutely right, Bob, and we've seen too many people go through the clear even by hand.
So you're saying you follow the directions - that's an odd concept for a lot of people, unfortunately, and that's when they get into trouble. Tons of misinformation on the ol' interwebs about what you can and can't do, should and shouldn't do, etc. Like the classic "it's impossible to damage your paint with a DA". Ha!! But people believe it and get a false sense of security, then they go nuts believing they're safe. Common sense is often in short supply, unfortunately.
Straying from the "directions/recommendations/best-practices" is needed sometimes, you're right. But doing this without common sense, or at least a working knowledge of what's going on when you polish paint, is also what gets some people in trouble. Any sort of directions/recommendations/best-practices is a starting guideline at best since the biggest variable you'e dealing with is the paint.
Danube
Active member
- Jan 11, 2012
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This is why I decided to stick to the Ultimate Compound until something revolutionary is released (as revolutionary as UC was when it was released). :idea:
Ultimate Compound is as good as gold for me, whether used with a DA or rotary .. always very effective and easy to use with looong working time.
There are a lot of 'addresses' towards body shops/professional painters in releasing new products. I don't know what percentage of Megs sales are in that direction however many body shop peps I met in the past (and I'm talking Australia, not US) use many other stuff but not Megs products for some reason.
Conclusion: I understand your need to release new products again and again (for obvious $$ reasons) in which many 'new' products are only a slight variation of a well known ones ... thus my decision to stick to Ultimate Compound , having great results without a need for my pocket to be attacked by such frequent releases.
/
Theo_Auto_Fines
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- Apr 26, 2013
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Ultimate Compound?? Whats so ultimate about this product?
Becciasm
New member
- Jul 6, 2009
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The graphics on the bottle.
Ultimate is the product line. It's pretty good, even in the hands of a novice (me)Sent from my VS840 4G using AG Online
Mike Phillips
Active member
- Dec 5, 2022
- 51,004
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And just to add to all the discussion going on in this thread already, for anyone reading this into the future...
Here's the link to a brand new round table video where M105, M101 and M100 are discussed and explained.....
Questions about Meguiar's M105, M101 and M100 Compounds? Watch this video!
M105 Ultra Cut Compound - M101 Foam Cut Compound - M100 Pro Speed Compound
:xyxthumbs:
Here's the link to a brand new round table video where M105, M101 and M100 are discussed and explained.....
Questions about Meguiar's M105, M101 and M100 Compounds? Watch this video!
M105 Ultra Cut Compound - M101 Foam Cut Compound - M100 Pro Speed Compound
:xyxthumbs: