datailing around clear plastic protectant film

wikkid

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Factory-applied clear plastic film to protect around some parts of the wheel wells of my white '05 Tacoma. The film is in good shape, but the edges are starting to pick up black gunk, and I am afraid that attacking the edges may make the film start to peel away. How do you guys attack this to get them clean and keep them intact?
 
Reviving this thread because I would like to know if there are any tips or things to avoid.
 
Tape up the edges, I wouldn't recommend cleaning under it or anything that could cause it to start peeling. Take it easy doing any polishing, if the paint is scratched underneath at all the only way to fix it is to remove the clear bra and re-apply.
 
You can use a small paint brush and cut the bristles in half to make them a little stiffer. A thin chip brush, 1 to 2 inches wide works best. Gently agitate along the edge not against it, with regular car wash soap. You can try something like opc or apc + if regular soap doesnt work. Keep solvents away.

When polishing, if you want to be extra careful, you should tape the edges off.

When waxing or applying a sealant. Wipe away from the edges, not towards them, as they will catch wax residue and you have to use the brush to clean it off.
 
You can use a small paint brush and cut the bristles in half to make them a little stiffer. A thin chip brush, 1 to 2 inches wide works best. Gently agitate along the edge not against it, with regular car wash soap. You can try something like opc or apc + if regular soap doesnt work. Keep solvents away.

When polishing, if you want to be extra careful, you should tape the edges off.

When waxing or applying a sealant. Wipe away from the edges, not towards them, as they will catch wax residue and you have to use the brush to clean it off.

This is a great tip I forgot about, I do it also on stripes since it can lead to a similar issue with wax residue in the crease. Wipe the edges near the clear bra or stripes first, away from those areas towards the paint first .
 
Great stuff, especially the soft paintbrush tip to get the dirt out which is the biggest problem. Thanks!
 
When I have to work with the clear bra's I do the tapings off the edges as this seems to be the easist way. If i have to work with out tape then as jeremy said wiping way is a huge trick to keeping an residue from the edges.
 
For taping these edges off, get some 3M Blue Vinyl Tape. One word about this tape...

Awesome



3M Blue Vinyl Tape

3M Vinyl Tape 1/4 Inch - 06405

Blue_Vinyl_Tape_01.jpg




3M Vinyl Tape 1/8 Inch - 06404

Blue_Vinyl_Tape_02.jpg



:xyxthumbs:
 
Mike,

Any reason for the preference over Blue Vinyl Tape over Green Automotive? I didn't see much written about it but how does it differ from 3M's regular blue painter's tape?

Thanks.
 
Mike,

Any reason for the preference over Blue Vinyl Tape over Green Automotive? I didn't see much written about it but how does it differ from 3M's regular blue painter's tape?

Thanks.

It's smoother, has little to no adhesive pull, very good at bending/stretching around corners and complex shapes, and it can be bought in narrower sizes, though 1/4" seems to be the best all around size IMO...it is pricey though.



 
Hmm thanks I'll have to pick some up next time I'm out.
 
Mike,

Any reason for the preference over Blue Vinyl Tape over Green Automotive? I didn't see much written about it but how does it differ from 3M's regular blue painter's tape?

Thanks.

It's smoother, has little to no adhesive pull, very good at bending/stretching around corners and complex shapes, and it can be bought in narrower sizes, though 1/4" seems to be the best all around size IMO...it is pricey though.


Exactly what I would have typed.

I'd also add that it hold up better than the normal paper type painter's tapes when you accidentally run a buffing pad over it.

It's really very good tape and if you look at any of the pictures from our Detailing Boot Camp Classes, our Thursday Night Extreme Makeovers and Show Car Makeovers you'll see we use it quite extensively for the reasons Chad listed.

It's one of my favorite tools.


:dblthumb2:
 
I am going to pick up some of this tape on my next order.

Different, but related question: do you guys hand polish body lines before or after taping? Or asked another way before or after machine polishing?
 
Didn't want to start a new thread so I'll ask here.

On my 96' GMC pickup the clear plastic protector at the lower part of my fenders has turned brittle and I want to remove it.
I don't think I could heat it up and get it off in one piece.
What would be the best way to remove it?, I'm sure there will be glue to deal with but I can remove it, just not sure how to get the plastic off.

Thanks
 
Different, but related question: do you guys hand polish body lines before or after taping?

Or asked another way before or after machine polishing?


After as then you can remove any tape-line residue.


I call this, Perfectionist Detailing, that is rubbing out the thin space of paint that runs along trim that was covered by tape. I actually discuss this in in this article I wrote after first coming to Autogeek back in 2009. All the information in this article is just as accurate today as it was when I wrote it and it's a re-write of an even older article on the topic.


Step-by-Step How-To use the Porter Cable 7424XP


Mike Phillips said:
Here we've taped-off the rubber gasket between the glass and the window frame and I'm pointing to show that there's about an 1/8th of an inch of paint that's not going to get buffed with either of the two polishing steps.

After the correction steps we'll remove the tape and carefully wax these areas for a uniform look that will match the polished areas next to the tape line.

While not perfectionist detailing in some eyes, remember this is a daily driver, not a show car.

You can invest more time and just run the tape down the rubber and get it close to the edge of the panel if you want or just overhang a little like I did here. It's your choice based upon what you're trying to accomplish and how much time you want to invest.
detail-141.jpg


The thing about Perfectionist Detailing is that it is very time intensive. Here's the deal...

If it's your own car go for it as it's your time.

If you're detailing for money and you can get your customer's to understand the time involved to do this kind of detailing and to pay you by the hour for it... then again, go for it as it's a good gig if you can get it.


My experience is most won't want to pay for it for a daily driver and only a few will pay for it for SIV's and you still have to educate them.


:)
 
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