Trouble with Body Shop Repaint?

[robert1955]

Michael:

Did you have a chance to read my post on problems with take the remainder of Wolfgang swirl3.0 remover off the trunk of my wife's 300-E. Now the trunk and hood were repainted several weeks ago and I noticed the swirl marks from the buffers covered by the body shop glaze.
I followed your book instructions . I used a blue soft finish pad
which may of not been thee right pad . I primed the pad according to your book. made six pass up and down stopped my porter Cable DA on the trunk. then when to wife off the residue with a folded micro fiber cloth. This is were the problem occurred : the residue would not wipe easily off. ?
I proceeded with a clean Blue 6 inch pad same as before with the Wolfgang 3.0 Glaze this time not priming the pad as much. Again same problem. Waxed with wolfgang fusion had to take off by hand not DA.
What am I I doing wrong .. I read you book three times it your instructions should work. The orginal pain on the car I have no problems buffing but used a white pad single stage 040 Mercedes-Benz, trunk and hood two stage with clear.. Tell me what I did wron
Bob Geco

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Hi Bob,

I just now found your post "tagged" onto this thread...


"Use the least aggressive product to get the job done"



Can't stress enough to anyone new to discussion forums that a lot of the time you're going to be much better off to start your very own, "Dedicated Thread" for your project and your topic.

Tagging a question/post onto someone else's thread might seem like the right thing to do or the easy thing to do but you often time hurt yourself because your post won't get the attention it deserves or no attention at all as was the case here.


I've moved your post out of my article thread and created for you your very own dedicated thread.

I actually have articles on how to "work" on a discussion forum, this forum or a forum on photography or butterfly collecting, the theme doesn't matter, the information in my articles will help anyone on any forum to get the best and most help possible assuming the forum has helpful and friendly forum members.


How to start a new thread & How to reply to an existing thread

A tip to help yourself get great answers when you start a thread

How to write a good title for your thread



:xyxthumbs:

 

[Mike PhillipsMike Phillips is verified member.]

Michael:


Did you have a chance to read my post on problems with take the remainder of Wolfgang swirl 3.0 remover off the trunk of my wife's 300-E. Bob Geco

Here's the thread you reference and "yes" I did find it and reply to it.


Problem polishing with Wolfgang products




:dblthumb2:

 

[BobbyG]

Hi Bob!

I'm not Mike but chiming in if I may....

Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0 is a really nice product and can remove swirls and like defects up to about 2000 to 2500 grit. It's really at home when used with an Orange light cutting pad or a White polishing pad.

I personally found that the 5 1/2" pads are the size of choice when using the Porter Cable 7424 machine

Here's some great information by Mike Phillips that will help you.

• Sectional Pass With a DA Polisher
• Removing Swirls
• DA Trouble Shooting Guide
• Waxing With a DA Polisher
• How to prime a foam pad when using a DA Polisher
• DA Polisher Articles - Help for Newbies to Machine Polishing
• How to MAXIMIZE your DA Polisher

Here is some information that hopefully sort out foam pads and their usage.

Foam Pads

Yellow Cutting Foam - Use this pad to apply compounds or polishes to remove severe oxidation, swirls, and scratches. It is the most aggressive and should only be used on oxidized and older finishes. Always follow this pad with an orange or white pad and a fine polish to refine the paint until it is smooth.

Orange Light Cutting Foam - Firm, high density foam for scratch and defect removal. Use this pad with polishes and swirl removers. It’s an all-around pad that will work on most light to moderate imperfections.

White Polishing Foam - Less dense foam formula for the application of waxes, micro-fine polishes and sealants. This pad has very light cutting power so it’s perfect for pre-wax cleaners.

Gray Finishing Foam Pad - Composition is firm enough to withstand added pressure during final finishing to remove buffer swirls. It has no cut and will apply thin, even coats of waxes, sealants, and glazes.

Blue Finessing Foam – Pad has soft composition for applying glaze, finishing polish, sealants, and liquid waxes. Flat pad provides full contact with paint surface to minimize the pressure applied by the user.

Red Ultra-soft Wax/Sealant Foam - This soft, imported foam is ideal for applying the final coat of wax or sealant. The foam works especially well when applying liquid waxes or sealants because it is firm enough to keep the majority of the product on the paint, rather than soaking it up. The red foam has no cut or cleaning ability.