WG Total Swirl Remover 3.0 vs Menzerna FG-400

1953hogan

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More help for a newbie,

Can somebody please help me compare Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0 to Menzerna FG-400?

I'm looking for a good all-around polish for my two vehicles:
  • Wife's 2007 Lincoln Navigator, champaign gold paint. Swirling isn't terrible but has light scratches and swirls from using automatic car wash (which she doesn't use anymore).
  • My 2010 Acura TL with black paint. Paint in very good condition, very little swirling but can use minor correction in spots.

I've got a GG 6" DA polisher with GG orange and red pads. I'm not averse to purchasing some new pads but wouldn't mind using the ones I have since I've already made 3 orders to AG since October.

I've used a sample of the WGTSR that I got with my last AG order with good results, but am comparing it to Menz FG-400 because that one seems to be less expensive. Price isn't the sole consideration but all things being equal it would be nice to save a little bit.

Which polish would be the best all-around buy for me between these two?

Am I missing a polish I should consider?

Thanks, everyone,

Steve
 
I wish I only made 3 orders since Oct. lol. I have about 20 pads for my new pcxp. I've done some minor spot correction on my truck with just xmt360 aio. I have been looking for the "perfect" fine polish myself for light scratches and maintenance use on 2 cars. It seems like alot of people use Meguiar's 205 or 105 if they need more correction. I'll be interested in the responses you get. Good luck,
Brian
 
FG-400 is a high cut compound. Similar to Power Gloss. Only difference is you dont get the typical hazing you get from a normal compound. ie finishes like a polish. Great for one step processes.

WGTSR is a higher cut polish, something close to Menz PF2500.

The WG Finishing Glaze is a low cut polish like SF4500, you use it for jeweling or creating a high gloss finish.

For you Navigator, FG-400 may be too aggressive, no need to take away more clear coat then you need too. I bet WGTSR on an orange pad will get rid of them easy.
Compounds are not very typical for swirls. They are more used for oxidation and sanding marks.

If I were you, I would recommend Menz PF2500 on a white ccs, followed by SF4500 on a red ccs. That what I would use.
 
More help for a newbie,

Can somebody please help me compare Wolfgang Total Swirl Remover 3.0 to Menzerna FG-400?

See Andr3wilson's reply below.


I've got a GG 6" DA polisher with GG orange and red pads. I'm not averse to purchasing some new pads but wouldn't mind using the ones I have since I've already made 3 orders to AG since October.

The orange pads are very good polishing pads you can use them with medium cut and fine cut polishes. The red pad is good for ultra fine cut polishes and applying waxes and sealants, it's very soft.


See this thread for the future...

5 inch Backing Plates on Meguiar's, Griot's and Porter Cable DA Polishers




FG-400 is a high cut compound. Similar to Power Gloss. Only difference is you dont get the typical hazing you get from a normal compound. ie finishes like a polish. Great for one step processes.

WGTSR is a higher cut polish, something close to Menz PF2500.

The WG Finishing Glaze is a low cut polish like SF4500, you use it for jeweling or creating a high gloss finish.

Good answer except I would add the FG 400 wont' always finish down to LSP ready on all paints, that's where the test spot comes in handy. Also the results will be strongly affected by the pad you use.

A cutting pad by itself can leave micromarring so if a person wants to use FG 400 as a one step they need to get good results using a polishing pad minimum.



For you Navigator, FG-400 may be too aggressive, no need to take away more clear coat then you need too. I bet WGTSR on an orange pad will get rid of them easy.
Compounds are not very typical for swirls. They are more used for oxidation and sanding marks.

If I were you, I would recommend Menz PF2500 on a white ccs, followed by SF4500 on a red ccs. That what I would use.

There's a recipe for success!

:dblthumb2:
 
FG-400 is a high cut compound. Similar to Power Gloss. Only difference is you dont get the typical hazing you get from a normal compound. ie finishes like a polish. Great for one step processes.

WGTSR is a higher cut polish, something close to Menz PF2500.

Thanks very much for the advice. I don't think I was making the distinction between a "compound" and a "polish," and this clarifies things.

Best,

Steve
 
Thanks, Mike, for answering both of my posts! I feel like I know you from all the videos I've watched and really appreciate you active participation in so many topics here.

Order going in to AG today!
 
I wish I only made 3 orders since Oct. lol. I have about 20 pads for my new pcxp. I've done some minor spot correction on my truck with just xmt360 aio. I have been looking for the "perfect" fine polish myself for light scratches and maintenance use on 2 cars. It seems like alot of people use Meguiar's 205 or 105 if they need more correction. I'll be interested in the responses you get. Good luck,
Brian

+100 to that one!

I wonder what the 'average' number of orders per month are for AGO forum members? Then say compared to 'non' forum members?

Myself, I'd probably order something twice a month without fail (on BOGO Fridays) if it were all free shipping. Not enough to go around though when supporting all the other 'hobbies' I have from DVD & CD's, to RC trucks, photography stuff, and don't get me started on guns (about to pickup a like new Springfield XDM 4½" from my brother in law because he moved to CA and can't own it there). And the really big hobby, home improvement! OMG it never stops. Just too many things we always want to do, like build out the kitchen in the basement for instance. :rolleyes:
 
Thanks, Mike, for answering both of my posts! I feel like I know you from all the videos I've watched and really appreciate you active participation in so many topics here.

Order going in to AG today!



Keep us updated on your projects and above all, before buffing out an entire car please start by doing a test spot and inspect your results.

Make sure you're getting the results you hope for and dream about before going any further and if you do run into problems, post what you're seeing here and the forum community will do everything they can to see you through to success...


How To Do a Test Spot
(and why it's so important)



:xyxthumbs:
 
Though it seems a bit of p.i.t.a. at the time, personally I've found the test spot to be invaluable. Take the extra time - it will be well worth it.
 
I went ahead and purchased some 5" CCS pads and some Menzerna. Will definitely do a test spot first. Just need my AG order to arrive. Will post photos as I go. Thanks again.
 
I went ahead and purchased some 5" CCS pads and some Menzerna. Will definitely do a test spot first. Just need my AG order to arrive. Will post photos as I go. Thanks again.

Hmmmm... I'd have gone for flat pads myself - somewhat better cut than CCS pads, and they're likely a better choice for diminishing abrasive polishes like the Menzerna line. Now this is all theoretical on my part - I don't own any CCS pads, and those instances where I have used them, it's been with SMAT polishes (Meguiar's and Optimum). However, I would surmise that for DAT polishes, you want to breakdown the abrasives in a consistent, uniform manner - you wouldn't want any unspent polish getting stuck in the pad dimples, then getting released when you're midway through the polishing cycle - this would lead to less consistent and predictable results.
 
Hmmmm... I'd have gone for flat pads myself - somewhat better cut than CCS pads, and they're likely a better choice for diminishing abrasive polishes like the Menzerna line. Now this is all theoretical on my part - I don't own any CCS pads, and those instances where I have used them, it's been with SMAT polishes (Meguiar's and Optimum). However, I would surmise that for DAT polishes, you want to breakdown the abrasives in a consistent, uniform manner - you wouldn't want any unspent polish getting stuck in the pad dimples, then getting released when you're midway through the polishing cycle - this would lead to less consistent and predictable results.

I use CCS and Flat pads. As far as the CCS working, it does not really pick up too much unspent polish. On a single stage or even when the pad is dirty, you can see the dimples are full of a grey-ish substances.

As far as DAT polishes, I have never had a problem with spent and unspent mixing. I prefer them to SMAT polishes for the exact reason they get less aggressive and finish better. Especially for jeweling.

I though Megs was DAT? I have never used their polishes. Only tried Optimum.
 
Guys, I've got a follow-up question.

I've already got a PF2500 on order from AG.

My question is, can I follow that up the 2500 with WG Finishing Glaze instead of SF4500? I've read that the 4500 can be a little finicky to completely remove.

Or, should I just use the Wolfgang Twins instead? Or are my fears about removing the 4500 unfounded?

Being a newbie, just want to keep things as easy and goof/proof for myself as possible.

Thanks,

Steve

PS -- Gotta add GO BADGERS in the Rose Bowl today. Been a disappointing season for us. Hopefully we can hang in with Stanford!
 
Last edited:
Guys, I've got a follow-up question.

I've already got a PF2500 on order from AG.

My question is, can I follow that up the 2500 with WG Finishing Glaze instead of SF4500? I've read that the 4500 can be a little finicky to completely remove.

Or, should I just use the Wolfgang Twins instead? Or are my fears about removing the 4500 unfounded?

Being a newbie, just want to keep things as easy and goof/proof for myself as possible.

Thanks,

Steve

PS -- Gotta add GO BADGERS in the Rose Bowl today. Been a disappointing season for us. Hopefully we can hang in with Stanford!

Do you have SF4500? If not then go straight ahead with the finishing glaze. 99% of the time you can mix and match products and labels. I do it all the time.

Now by finicky to remove, they are probably talking about the polish residue. I have noticed it takes a tad more work; short-nappe towels work best, but honestly you will not have any problem with SF4500. Personally for me detailing, I either use pinnacle paint cleansing lotion or Carpro Eraser to remove residue leaving the surface prepped for LSP.

Irregardless of what polish you use, there will be a slight bit of residue/film left on the paint, to remove this, the easiest way for you is to use IPA (isopropyl alcohol) diluted in water (4:1). Spray on wipe off. Be careful if you have a 3M clear bra, do not let the IPA touch it because it breaks down and softens it.

Hope this answers some questions :)
 
Do you have SF4500? If not then go straight ahead with the finishing glaze. 99% of the time you can mix and match products and labels. I do it all the time.

Now by finicky to remove, they are probably talking about the polish residue. I have noticed it takes a tad more work; short-nappe towels work best, but honestly you will not have any problem with SF4500. Personally for me detailing, I either use pinnacle paint cleansing lotion or Carpro Eraser to remove residue leaving the surface prepped for LSP.

Irregardless of what polish you use, there will be a slight bit of residue/film left on the paint, to remove this, the easiest way for you is to use IPA (isopropyl alcohol) diluted in water (4:1). Spray on wipe off. Be careful if you have a 3M clear bra, do not let the IPA touch it because it breaks down and softens it.

Hope this answers some questions :)

I don't have any 4500 ordered at this point because I had some Ultima Paint Prep Plus to use up, but got to thinking about it today and decided to go ahead and order a finishing polish to accompany the PF2500.

The UPPP gives me fits to remove no matter how thin I apply it, and I was just thinking about trying to avoid that with my next purchase.

Since I don't yet have the 4500, should I just get that or should I go with WG finishing glaze?

And I have another question: Assuming I want to re-wax or apply sealant maybe 4 times per year, can I use the finishing polish (4500 or WGFG) each time before applying LSP? (Or is there another product for that?)

Thanks,

Steve
 
I don't have any 4500 ordered at this point because I had some Ultima Paint Prep Plus to use up, but got to thinking about it today and decided to go ahead and order a finishing polish to accompany the PF2500.

The UPPP gives me fits to remove no matter how thin I apply it, and I was just thinking about trying to avoid that with my next purchase.

Since I don't yet have the 4500, should I just get that or should I go with WG finishing glaze?

And I have another question: Assuming I want to re-wax or apply sealant maybe 4 times per year, can I use the finishing polish (4500 or WGFG) each time before applying LSP? (Or is there another product for that?)

Thanks,

Steve

Absolutely, it is actually a good idea to use a finishing polish when you detail your car. Over time, no matter how careful you are, minor swirls and scuffs can be inflicted into the paint. Finishing polishes or nano polishes are great because they are not too aggressive and only remove the light marring. This removes the defect, with out removing more clear coat then needed.

As you see from my previous pictures, that is what I was doing.
I use a white pad with SF4500, works like a charm every time.

You are machine applying this correct?
 
You are machine applying this correct?

Yes, will be machine applying with Griots DA with 5 1/2" finishing pad.

Just to clarify, if you were me, given my concerns, would you buy the WGFG or the 4500?

Thanks for your replies and advice!
 
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