Is my opticoat 2.0 application holding ? 45 days after...

Paintxpert said:
I have shelves full of coatings and sealants. Every Spring I toss them into the round file. I often reflect on the money I wasted in undelivered promises of these products. Nevertheless as ineffective as they are, the round file is where they belong. My clients mean too much to me to use some SH-- on there car. Shine SINCE 1969! Paintxpert
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Such as...?

What were your outcomes on the coatings? What type of elements did they see? How long did you test and what method did you use to test?
 
Like I said...I guess I am just old fashioned. Its OK on an old finish. I wouldnt put it on a new car. Or anything dear to me. It might be good to disguise imperfections, it may even have a marketable place in the "detail" world. I tell my customers theres only one way to care for your car. That is to detail it at least TWO times per year. Sometimes more. You wouldnt clean your teeth one time in a lifetime IF YOU WANTED TEETH??? Would you???? Sorry, this is again how I see it.
 
For the guy using dish detergent on his car. I thought we learned that wasnt good back in 1972. NO DAWN or any other grease cutters EVER. At least not on my clients cars. Have a BLESSED DAY!!! Paintxpert or Search: "Expert Auto Polishing"
 
Paintxpert said:
I am COMPLETELY SKEPTICAL about any product that is claimed to last forever. I am sorry, with all due respect, I dont believe it. There are no short cuts to having a STUNNING optically perfect paint surface. I would NOT use this OC on a car worth more than say 3500 dollars. I dont care what results you get. The guy that did the extensive testing is a SAINT.....SAVE YOUR MONEY!!!! Its OK for failed paint for a temp. fix. Go back to Wolfgang. There is simply no SHORT CUT to loving your cars paint finish. THERE NEVER WILL BE. Sorry, just my opinion. Paintxpert.
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Although I do agree to keep the best of your car you should do everything by the book.... weekly washes.... wax or sealant or both once every 1 or 2 months.... decon every 4 to 6 months.... polish once a year.... and things like that...... but remember cars like that are daily driver and in most cases people either don't have time, patience or like or have the money to do this kind of thing....
Opticoat is great if you don't care about your car, it will get damage instead of the paint....
But it's also great if you do care about your car, because you will induce less swirls and sacrifice less of your paint when repolishing.

But I'd say it's not for the people that like a lot to take care of their cars.... because they'll want to wax and everything very frequently, which will give a better look than an opticoated car.

I guess many of us miss the point when the word "permanent" is used.
In my opinion opticoat is "permanent" in the sense it won't fade as a wax, sealant or other types of coatings.... It's not "permanent" in the meaning of bullet proof...... it will take damage and fade just like a clearcoat will too as time goes by....
Maybe we might get too excited thinking opticoat is the end off all paint care trouble, like a bullet proof solution..... but it's not like that.... it's just an EXTRA (and great) protection to your precious paint, but it's no bullet proof product.

I personally haven't opticoated yet my DD, because I ment to wash it every week and wax once a month with DP Max Wax... but to tell you the truth ? Sometimes I got tired and end up leaving it a month without washing....
I managed to induce so few swirls on my DD (soft paint), since the 1.3 year I have polished.
And you have to agree... a month without washing your car defeats the purpose of chasing "looks" over protection.

For these reasons I'll opticoat it next time I polish it. Because I know I'll have even fewer swirls and it will be more protected when I spent a month without taking care of it.
 
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Paintxpert said:
Like I said...I guess I am just old fashioned. Its OK on an old finish. I wouldn't put it on a new car. Or anything dear to me. It might be good to disguise imperfections, it may even have a marketable place in the "detail" world. I tell my customers there's only one way to care for your car. That is to detail it at least TWO times per year. Sometimes more. You wouldn't clean your teeth one time in a lifetime IF YOU WANTED TEETH??? Would you???? Sorry, this is again how I see it.
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Don't be sorry. That is what this forum is here for. I totally understand where you're coming from, and while I would never put a coating on my teeth, I get your point. Not really apples to apples but I definitely understand.

I understand old fashioned. If it ain't broke, don't fix it is what my pops always told me and to keep it K.I.S.S. I'm a firm believer of that but sometimes an old dog CAN learn new tricks. I really think there is a misconception about the new nano coatings and permanent coatings but the technology really has evolved and some of the worlds most sophisticated and best detailers in the world use these everyday with nothing less than stellar results. I think the verbiage used for some of the descriptions is a little grey so I'll agree with you on that. But, they do work if used correctly and it's done nothing but make even more money for me and my business. I, like you, was veryyyyyy skeptical about them until I conducted my own testings. I'm now using these coatings almost weekly and haven't had anyone return back with anything but amazing things to say. The process works, the coatings work, and it's great. Give it a shot if you really haven't but I totally respect your integrity and opinion!

Thank you!
 
Paintxpert said:
For the guy using dish detergent on his car. I thought we learned that wasnt good back in 1972. NO DAWN or any other grease cutters EVER. At least not on my clients cars. Have a BLESSED DAY!!! Paintxpert or Search: "Expert Auto Polishing"
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I can't help but ask if you really think that companies haven't adjusted their chemicals/products in over 40 years?
 
Paintxpert said:
Like I said...I guess I am just old fashioned. Its OK on an old finish. I wouldnt put it on a new car. Or anything dear to me. It might be good to disguise imperfections, it may even have a marketable place in the "detail" world. I tell my customers theres only one way to care for your car. That is to detail it at least TWO times per year. Sometimes more. You wouldnt clean your teeth one time in a lifetime IF YOU WANTED TEETH??? Would you???? Sorry, this is again how I see it.
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Not very good examples or comparisons, sorry. The point of this stuff is not to rid yourself of washing for good, it's for making it easier when you do. There is still some maintenance needed. I can totally see why you would tell your clients their vehicles need special attention twice a year.$$$. In my opinion, these new coatings would be used more for newer vehicles to keep them looking like new longer. IMO
 
@Paintxpert

I do understand your passion and experience (claimed) on the field. I also do respect it, but you're overlooking some aspects.
Let's not steer away from the thread and the main idea of it.
 
There is nothing wrong with being old fashioned. And learning from our past is almost the only way to avoid pitfalls in the future, but...once in a while something comes along that changes things. Opti-Coat is one of those things.

First of all, Opti Coat is not a wax or sealant. Our pre polymer resin crosslinks and form silicon carbide aka synthetic diamonds. Opti-Coat doesn't just sit on your paint work like wax or only "bond" to itself like a sealant. It works by bonding to your factory clear coating and becoming a permanent part of your vehicles paint system. Just like the clear coat bonds to the base coat, Opti-Coat bonds chemically to the clear coat.Opti-Coat is not a paint protection wax or sealant that will wash away, or break down over time. Opti-Coat bonds permanently with the factory coating, protecting the surface indefinitely and will not delaminate.

A single layer of Optimum Clear Coating (Pro Version Professionally Applied) measures approximately 2 microns in thickness. When compared to other paint protection products, Opti-Coat is more than 100 times thicker, with tests showing a wax coating measuring less than 0.02 microns.

This allows Opti-Coat to effectively absorb damage that would otherwise affect the factory paint layers. Swirl marks and light scratches are not only decreased by the harder Optimum Ceramic Coating, the factory paint is protected and preserved. Even if you do require polishing down the road, it's nice to know you are only cutting into the coating, which is easily replaceable, than thinning your actual factory paint system.

Opti-Coat is completely resistant to acidic environmental substances such as bird droppings. Unlike your factory clear coating that can be permanently damaged, Opti-Coat will not etch or dissolve when in contact with these substances, and a clean, glossy clear coating is maintained. And, as we all know wax and sealants do very little protection here in the long term. A bird dropping on either would mean another application.

We have even accommodated skeptics with our Lifetime warranty for new car applications and a 5 year warranty on used car applications (Opti-Coat Pro installed by an approved installer) that if the Optimum Clear Coating is unsatisfactory in its performance of protecting the vehicles factory paintwork from oxidation, or damage from bird droppings, bug splatter, tree sap or UV damage, whilst being maintained in accordance with the terms and conditions of this warranty, OPT or its agents will at no cost to the owner repair or clean, and re-#treat the affected area.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
There is nothing wrong with being old fashioned. And learning from our past is almost the only way to avoid pitfalls in the future, but...once in a while something comes along that changes things. Opti-Coat is one of those things.

First of all, Opti Coat is not a wax or sealant. Our pre polymer resin crosslinks and form silicon carbide aka synthetic diamonds. Opti-Coat doesn't just sit on your paint work like wax or only "bond" to itself like a sealant. It works by bonding to your factory clear coating and becoming a permanent part of your vehicles paint system. Just like the clear coat bonds to the base coat, Opti-Coat bonds chemically to the clear coat.Opti-Coat is not a paint protection wax or sealant that will wash away, or break down over time. Opti-Coat bonds permanently with the factory coating, protecting the surface indefinitely and will not delaminate.

A single layer of Optimum Clear Coating (Pro Version Professionally Applied) measures approximately 2 microns in thickness. When compared to other paint protection products, Opti-Coat is more than 100 times thicker, with tests showing a wax coating measuring less than 0.02 microns.

This allows Opti-Coat to effectively absorb damage that would otherwise affect the factory paint layers. Swirl marks and light scratches are not only decreased by the harder Optimum Ceramic Coating, the factory paint is protected and preserved. Even if you do require polishing down the road, it's nice to know you are only cutting into the coating, which is easily replaceable, than thinning your actual factory paint system.

Opti-Coat is completely resistant to acidic environmental substances such as bird droppings. Unlike your factory clear coating that can be permanently damaged, Opti-Coat will not etch or dissolve when in contact with these substances, and a clean, glossy clear coating is maintained. And, as we all know wax and sealants do very little protection here in the long term. A bird dropping on either would mean another application.

We have even accommodated skeptics with our Lifetime warranty for new car applications and a 5 year warranty on used car applications (Opti-Coat Pro installed by an approved installer) that if the Optimum Clear Coating is unsatisfactory in its performance of protecting the vehicles factory paintwork from oxidation, or damage from bird droppings, bug splatter, tree sap or UV damage, whilst being maintained in accordance with the terms and conditions of this warranty, OPT or its agents will at no cost to the owner repair or clean, and re-#treat the affected area.
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Chris, can using [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Menzerna SF-4500 on g[/FONT]ray finishing pad take out opticoat? If can, how much?
 
Benziez said:
Chris, can using [FONT=Verdana, Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]Menzerna SF-4500 on g[/FONT]ray finishing pad take out opticoat? If can, how much?
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Any abrasive will cut into the coating. It may cut slower because if its hardness, but it will still take some away. How much and how fast is a question with too many variables to answer. It is harder than normal clears but the major difference is not how it reacts to abrasion but to acids and other strong chemicals. It will not etch which means you don't have to level it to fix a stain if it occurs. Merely cleaning the surface should remove defects that permeate normal clears.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
A single layer of Optimum Clear Coating (Pro Version Professionally Applied) measures approximately 2 microns in thickness. When compared to other paint protection products, Opti-Coat is more than 100 times thicker, with tests showing a wax coating measuring less than 0.02 microns.
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Chris--how thick is a typical Opti Coat 2.0 application after one coat? After two coats?
 
Chris@Optimum said:
Any abrasive will cut into the coating. It may cut slower because if its hardness, but it will still take some away. How much and how fast is a question with too many variables to answer. It is harder than normal clears but the major difference is not how it reacts to abrasion but to acids and other strong chemicals. It will not etch which means you don't have to level it to fix a stain if it occurs. Merely cleaning the surface should remove defects that permeate normal clears.
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meaning... mild polish like SF4500 can cut thru... but at a very slow rate. GOT it..:props:
I also heard a ph level of 12 & above will harm Opticoat... True?
 
I'm kinda with Paintxpert on this, but more in the middle. Coatings are great, but in my opinion its kinda naive to believe any of these are "permanent" or that they even last a year in real world driving conditions and car wash's. And here's my logic:

First off, just driving a car around in the rain/wind induces micro scratches. as these scratches add up the coatings come off. No coatings that i've seen/heard of are really scratch resistant, so as it gets scratched, it gets weaker. I've recently applied wolfs hard body and in testing its hardness, rubbed my finger on the clean paint and saw small scratches instantly.

Second, clear coats are thicker than any coating you can apply by hand or machine. Bird poo, acid rain, water etches, etc can eat clear coat.. its also going to eat whatever coating you got on there as well.

Finally, I cant imagine car manufacturers not incorporating these scientific coatings into their paint process if they really worked. Oh wait, they kinda do, in specially designed clear coats like MB or BMW. And although both cars have hard paint, they still swirl and get eaten by bird poo.

SO bottom line, coatings will help as a sacrificial barrier for your paint, but to rely on them in lieu of washing your car and maintaining it properly is a big mistake if you really care about your paint.
 
jrs1418 said:
I'm kinda with Paintxpert on this, but more in the middle. Coatings are great, but in my opinion its kinda naive to believe any of these are "permanent" or that they even last a year in real world driving conditions and car wash's. And here's my logic:

First off, just driving a car around in the rain/wind induces micro scratches. as these scratches add up the coatings come off. No coatings that i've seen/heard of are really scratch resistant, so as it gets scratched, it gets weaker. I've recently applied wolfs hard body and in testing its hardness, rubbed my finger on the clean paint and saw small scratches instantly.

Second, clear coats are thicker than any coating you can apply by hand or machine. Bird poo, acid rain, water etches, etc can eat clear coat.. its also going to eat whatever coating you got on there as well.

Finally, I cant imagine car manufacturers not incorporating these scientific coatings into their paint process if they really worked. Oh wait, they kinda do, in specially designed clear coats like MB or BMW. And although both cars have hard paint, they still swirl and get eaten by bird poo.

SO bottom line, coatings will help as a sacrificial barrier for your paint, but to rely on them in lieu of washing your car and maintaining it properly is a big mistake if you really care about your paint.
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That's pretty much it, but a lot of people fail to realize that...
I'm even lowering expectations from people for whom I apply opticoat, because I realized everybody, even detailers got it wrong.
Personally I think it's great to know there's something harder than my very soft clear coat over it..... and even more as according to Optimum as it does add a nice amount of thickness.

But to a lot of people will change their cars in 2 or 3 years so they don't care if a product like opticoat will make it go in perfect shape when it has 5 or 10 or 15 years...
 
jrs1418 said:
I'm kinda with Paintxpert on this, but more in the middle. Coatings are great, but in my opinion its kinda naive to believe any of these are "permanent" or that they even last a year in real world driving conditions and car wash's. And here's my logic:

First off, just driving a car around in the rain/wind induces micro scratches. as these scratches add up the coatings come off. No coatings that i've seen/heard of are really scratch resistant, so as it gets scratched, it gets weaker. I've recently applied wolfs hard body and in testing its hardness, rubbed my finger on the clean paint and saw small scratches instantly.

Second, clear coats are thicker than any coating you can apply by hand or machine. Bird poo, acid rain, water etches, etc can eat clear coat.. its also going to eat whatever coating you got on there as well.

Finally, I cant imagine car manufacturers not incorporating these scientific coatings into their paint process if they really worked. Oh wait, they kinda do, in specially designed clear coats like MB or BMW. And although both cars have hard paint, they still swirl and get eaten by bird poo.

SO bottom line, coatings will help as a sacrificial barrier for your paint, but to rely on them in lieu of washing your car and maintaining it properly is a big mistake if you really care about your paint.
Click to expand...

I used to be a skeptic until I had it on my car. Incredible!!!
 
ski2 said:
Chris--how thick is a typical Opti Coat 2.0 application after one coat? After two coats?
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My educated guess would be between .5-1um depending on how heavy you apply it. Many detailers who claim using low qty (<8-10cc) are not going to see the optimum thickness. We recommend 8-10cc and if you finish with less go over panels that see more abuse a second time (roofs, front, lower panels).

Benziez said:
meaning... mild polish like SF4500 can cut thru... but at a very slow rate. GOT it..:props:
I also heard a ph level of 12 & above will harm Opticoat... True?
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Harm no, stain maybe. It won't permeate or etch like it wold clear coat, but it may bond hard enough to need claying or light polishing with a chemical cleaning wax.

jrs1418 said:
I'm kinda with Paintxpert on this, but more in the middle. Coatings are great, but in my opinion its kinda naive to believe any of these are "permanent" or that they even last a year in real world driving conditions and car wash's. And here's my logic:

First off, just driving a car around in the rain/wind induces micro scratches. as these scratches add up the coatings come off. No coatings that i've seen/heard of are really scratch resistant, so as it gets scratched, it gets weaker. I've recently applied wolfs hard body and in testing its hardness, rubbed my finger on the clean paint and saw small scratches instantly.

Second, clear coats are thicker than any coating you can apply by hand or machine. Bird poo, acid rain, water etches, etc can eat clear coat.. its also going to eat whatever coating you got on there as well.

Finally, I cant imagine car manufacturers not incorporating these scientific coatings into their paint process if they really worked. Oh wait, they kinda do, in specially designed clear coats like MB or BMW. And although both cars have hard paint, they still swirl and get eaten by bird poo.

SO bottom line, coatings will help as a sacrificial barrier for your paint, but to rely on them in lieu of washing your car and maintaining it properly is a big mistake if you really care about your paint.
Click to expand...

It's not my intention to contradict or debate you. But, your reasoning is slightly flawed.
First, we use the term permanent like OEM paint is permanent; meaning that Opti Coat will not simply wear away, would have to be removed abrasively (like paint). Actually, because paint oxidizes and Opti Coat won't, it's actually more "permanent" than factory coats. We don't use the term to mean it will still be intact after a cataclysmic event. I wish we had used a more descriptive term initially because the word permanent's semantics have proven to be a point of contention. Opti Coat is permanent like paint is permanent.

My second point is also one of semantics. Not everything that has coating in the description is an actual coating. Waxes, sealants, and the plethora of glass coatings (Silicon Oxide) coat (cover) the car, but not like paint coats. Opti Coat (Silicon Carbide) works by bonding to your factory clear coating and becoming a permanent (see above) part of your vehicles paint system. Just like the clear coat bonds to the base coat, Opti-Coat bonds chemically to the clear coat. Waxes, sealants, and glass coatings "bond" too, but not the same type of bond that paint systems do. Opti Coat is a coating like paint is a coating;Opti Coat bonds like paint bonds.

Lastly, carmakers sell cars and have no interest of providing you with the best technology. Modern clears will look pretty good for a few years and then will oxidize and damage quite easily... Just in time for you to let a newer model catch your eye. If you trade or lease often, I probably wouldn't bother with a coating. But, most of us hear take pride in ownership and want to remove as little paint as necessary to maintain that new car look.​

As for real world driving, chips may occurs but damage from rain and wind is not going to happen. Most of the reason we see "normal" wear and tear on a vehicle is due to inferior protection and extended maintenance. Cars are not waxed or sealed often enough and those types of protection begin to fade from the moment they are applied. Not many take the time to re apply protection after exposure to acids (bird droppings) or alkaline (APC, wheel cleaners) so the paint is virtually unprotected. The small grit that could be thwarted by a slick, hydrophobic surface stick and need pressure to release.

Opti-Coat is completely resistant to acidic environmental substances such as bird droppings. Unlike your factory clear coating that can be permanently damaged, Opti-Coat will not etch or dissolve when in contact with these substances, and a clean, glossy clear coating is maintained. Opti-Coat will provide the owner with a permanent hydrophobic surface that is easier to clean, and stays cleaner for longer!

You are right about forming a sacrificial barrier, but Opti Coat is much more. Being up to 100 times thicker than wax allows Opti-Coat to effectively absorb damage that would otherwise affect the factory paint layers. Swirl marks and light scratches are not only decreased by the harder Optimum Ceramic Coating, the factory paint is protected and preserved.

Opti Coat is the real deal. We have been testing since 2007 and on the market since 2010. The pro version carries an optional lifetime warranty against failure and thousands of testimonies will confirm that after months and years Opti Coat is still going strong.

DaC said:
That's pretty much it, but a lot of people fail to realize that...
I'm even lowering expectations from people for whom I apply opticoat, because I realized everybody, even detailers got it wrong.
Personally I think it's great to know there's something harder than my very soft clear coat over it..... and even more as according to Optimum as it does add a nice amount of thickness.

But to a lot of people will change their cars in 2 or 3 years so they don't care if a product like opticoat will make it go in perfect shape when it has 5 or 10 or 15 years...
Click to expand...

I partially agree. Opti Coat is not for everyone, but it is for everyone who likes to keep a little money in their wallet. For DIY Opti Coat 2.0 is only $35 per application (10cc per car-20cc/$70). If it only lasted a year, that's cheaper than the 4+ applications of a lesser product while saving you the time to install them as well.

Those who use pro detailers to maintain their cars will spend at least $50 or more per application of wax 2-4 times per year. The average Opti Coat Pro application is $300 or less (non warrantied) and will last well over the 2-3 year mark you suggested. 3 years @ 2 wax/year = $300 for inferior protection. 3 years @ 4 wax/year is $600 for inferior protection. This is not even considering the etching and damage that Opti Coat will prevent in aesthetics...and anyone who trades that often knows how much more you get when selling or trading in a used vehicle. The difference between good and excellent is thousands.

I'm sorry for the book. Thank you to those who read it all. :dblthumb2:
 
Just thought I'd share. I forget exactly when I applied opti-coat to my various panels. But the longest one has had it for atleast 5-6 months now and it still beads the same as it did when I first applied. It still cleans up very easily too.

The key is all in the preparation it seems.
 
Chris@Optimum said:
It's not my intention to contradict or debate you. But, your reasoning is slightly flawed.
First, we use the term permanent like OEM paint is permanent; meaning that Opti Coat will not simply wear away, would have to be removed abrasively (like paint). Actually, because paint oxidizes and Opti Coat won't, it's actually more "permanent" than factory coats. We don't use the term to mean it will still be intact after a cataclysmic event. I wish we had used a more descriptive term initially because the word permanent's semantics have proven to be a point of contention. Opti Coat is permanent like paint is permanent.

My second point is also one of semantics. Not everything that has coating in the description is an actual coating. Waxes, sealants, and the plethora of glass coatings (Silicon Oxide) coat (cover) the car, but not like paint coats. Opti Coat (Silicon Carbide) works by bonding to your factory clear coating and becoming a permanent (see above) part of your vehicles paint system. Just like the clear coat bonds to the base coat, Opti-Coat bonds chemically to the clear coat. Waxes, sealants, and glass coatings "bond" too, but not the same type of bond that paint systems do. Opti Coat is a coating like paint is a coating;Opti Coat bonds like paint bonds.

Lastly, carmakers sell cars and have no interest of providing you with the best technology. Modern clears will look pretty good for a few years and then will oxidize and damage quite easily... Just in time for you to let a newer model catch your eye. If you trade or lease often, I probably wouldn't bother with a coating. But, most of us hear take pride in ownership and want to remove as little paint as necessary to maintain that new car look.​

As for real world driving, chips may occurs but damage from rain and wind is not going to happen. Most of the reason we see "normal" wear and tear on a vehicle is due to inferior protection and extended maintenance. Cars are not waxed or sealed often enough and those types of protection begin to fade from the moment they are applied. Not many take the time to re apply protection after exposure to acids (bird droppings) or alkaline (APC, wheel cleaners) so the paint is virtually unprotected. The small grit that could be thwarted by a slick, hydrophobic surface stick and need pressure to release.

Opti-Coat is completely resistant to acidic environmental substances such as bird droppings. Unlike your factory clear coating that can be permanently damaged, Opti-Coat will not etch or dissolve when in contact with these substances, and a clean, glossy clear coating is maintained. Opti-Coat will provide the owner with a permanent hydrophobic surface that is easier to clean, and stays cleaner for longer!

You are right about forming a sacrificial barrier, but Opti Coat is much more. Being up to 100 times thicker than wax allows Opti-Coat to effectively absorb damage that would otherwise affect the factory paint layers. Swirl marks and light scratches are not only decreased by the harder Optimum Ceramic Coating, the factory paint is protected and preserved.

Opti Coat is the real deal. We have been testing since 2007 and on the market since 2010. The pro version carries an optional lifetime warranty against failure and thousands of testimonies will confirm that after months and years Opti Coat is still going strong.



I partially agree. Opti Coat is not for everyone, but it is for everyone who likes to keep a little money in their wallet. For DIY Opti Coat 2.0 is only $35 per application (10cc per car-20cc/$70). If it only lasted a year, that's cheaper than the 4+ applications of a lesser product while saving you the time to install them as well.

Those who use pro detailers to maintain their cars will spend at least $50 or more per application of wax 2-4 times per year. The average Opti Coat Pro application is $300 or less (non warrantied) and will last well over the 2-3 year mark you suggested. 3 years @ 2 wax/year = $300 for inferior protection. 3 years @ 4 wax/year is $600 for inferior protection. This is not even considering the etching and damage that Opti Coat will prevent in aesthetics...and anyone who trades that often knows how much more you get when selling or trading in a used vehicle. The difference between good and excellent is thousands.

I'm sorry for the book. Thank you to those who read it all. :dblthumb2:
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Thanks for the clarification. And I understand where you're coming from. Truthfully, i need a little more convincing. When I stick my hand outside my car window (rain or not) driving 55mph on the hwy, i feel plenty of little rocks or debris hitting my hand. I can't imagine the constant bombardment of debris that hits the front of cars while in motion wont "eat" away at a coating. I mean, my windshield has rock chips. :eek: And i seriously doubt OC in any way is more scratch and chip resistant than glass. Then add in rain,sleet, snow, etc and a daily driver gets a fair share abuse. Now I agree that having a coating, like OC or HB will help minimize damage versus an uncoated surface.. that's why I believe coatings have merit. However for me to upsell & apply OC, or HB I have to do plenty of prep work which equals plenty of $$ to the customer, which equals HIGH EXPECTATIONS, which can ultimately lead to disappointment, especially on daily drivers.

About bird poo, are you sure?????????? Because now i'm going to take you up on that. I have a tree, that is guaranteed to produce some nice droppings and allow them to sun bake at the same time :bananas: I seriously would LOVE to tell my customers i truly have something for bird poo.
 
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