Lexus RX350 - My Kryponite...

[Andr3wilson]

So I am totally beat and frustrated atm.

I decided to detail up my 2010 RX350, nothing new here. Been really busy for the last few weeks and have been neglecting my cars.

My plan of attack was to give a thorough wash, clay, and because it has Exo, leave it at that.

As I am washing, I see a few chips in the hood and decide to fill, and sand them out, nothing new here either.

So I as I am rinsing, I notice on the sides and the hood, there is ZERO beading. I feel the paint and it is like coarse sand paper it is so rough. I am a little P'd off because exo isn't cheap and is suppose to last 2 years. It lasted 2 months; I guess the Gtechniq guys didn't test for the amount of road salts we have here. Trust me when I say I applied it correctly and followed the instructions to a T.

So at this point I chose to go back to a wax/sealant.
NEW PLAN:
-wash
-clay
-SF4500 on a Blue CCS via 3401 - to pull of the Exo and prep the surface from a little wash marring.
-Eraser
-Seal

I started claying, and on the left rear door, a few stones embedded in the paint got caught in my clay and I didn't have enough lube...

Now the side is FULL of RIDS and swirls

So feeling like a total idiot, I break out an Orange Flat High Gloss with IS1500 to pull out the new swirls and RIDS

So after a thorough pass, I inspect and see they are 70% gone. Now being a little OCD, I want 100% gone.

Now I have to be realistic with what I want because my paint thickness gauge is bringing me back to reality.

92 on the door and to get an idea how thick the base coat is I take a measurement from the door; typically the clear is thinner here

63... 92-63= 29 microns of clear (roughly). Due to the fact I dont want to thin it so much I can no longer correct, I decide to break out my Rotary and Jewel. All of the other panels are is great shape so I plan to make the best of what I have.

Looks good right?

Well after I use eraser, I discover my MF just ruined all my hard work, this clear is sooooooooooooooo soft!!!

So I am a little stressed now, I start jeweling other panels when my PE14 just stops working; broke. Now I got this soft clear issue AND I have to go back and get the Flex replaced.

One headache after another!!

Now the car doesn't have any fancy PPG clear coats, I think its a Dupont actually. Its the same clear all the way down, I just forgot how soft and sensitive it is.

Right now I am planning on glazing and using one of my BOGO Dodo's and leaving it. Hardly anyone would notice, but I do and it bugs me!!

So I end this rant/thread with this. RX350, my new kyrponite.

 

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Wow Andrew. Sounds like you went through a rough time dealing with the Lexus and the PE14 quit on you. What a day!

I wonder what happened wit with the EXO? I thought it should last a bit longer than that? Which LSP did you put down?

 

[Andr3wilson]

Wow Andrew. Sounds like you went through a rough time dealing with the Lexus and the PE14 quit on you. What a day!

I wonder what happened wit with the EXO? I thought it should last a bit longer than that? Which LSP did you put down?

Yea Mike!

I think the road salts ate it all up! on the upper panels and roof, its still there. Only on the sides where it gets heavily soiled.

I am thinking of trying Dodo Purple Haze. See how it works out!

 

[snowking724]

Sorry to hear this, doesn't sound like any fun. I don't know anything about Exo so this might be pointless but I have to ask. Can this coating be cleaned(like OC) with things like Iron-X, Tar-X or an APC or would that remove the coating? Something to consider, maybe the bonded contaminants were causing the lack of beading or sheeting.

 

[Andr3wilson]

Sorry to hear this, doesn't sound like any fun. I don't know anything about Exo so this might be pointless but I have to ask. Can this coating be cleaned(like OC) with things like Iron-X, Tar-X or an APC or would that remove the coating? Something to consider, maybe the bonded contaminants were causing the lack of beading or sheeting.

Well I dont know a whole lot about Exo for cleaning. Its nothing like a scratch resistant coating like OC, Cquartz, or C1. Think of it as a super durable wax/sealant. I know Eraser and IPA wont take it off, but Alkaline cleaner will. So maybe an APC would do, I haven't used Iron-X or anything like that yet on it. It's kinda hard to say if the clay takes it off. I was a little preoccupied at the time, but I will try on my other car with it maybe today or tomorrow.

At first, when it wasn't beading on the sides, I thought it was just the dirt. After the wash; during the rinse I noticed it wasn't beading at all, let alone like the rest of the car was.

It will be interesting to see how this stuff really holds up and performs like its claimed to. It not a very old product, only out for a year now. Unless you are driving through really acidic mud, I can't really think of a harsher climate than I live in here. Road salts eat through everything here. So I will keep an eye on it and see what happens. TBH I think my other car has the same issues with the coating.

 

[Mike@DedicatedPerfection]

Yea Mike!

I think the road salts ate it all up! on the upper panels and roof, its still there. Only on the sides where it gets heavily soiled.

I am thinking of trying Dodo Purple Haze. See how it works out!

Im surprised that the road salt ate through it in a short time frame.

You may need something stronger than purple haze. Maybe 845?

 

[Andr3wilson]

Im surprised that the road salt ate through it in a short time frame.

You may need something stronger than purple haze. Maybe 845?

I did think about that, but I have a whole bunch of waxes I am testing and using, so my main plan is to change it up every 4 weeks until spring. I am doing different panels with different stuff right now to find what works best with what colours.

I have started again today with the Lexus and things are going a lot better so far. I actually might upload some after pics!

 

[weekendwarrior]

I have a 2010 Subaru in the fleet, the paint is so soft the compound I tried on it stuck in the paint. The Japanese paint is very soft I think. Lexus was made in USA though right? Might be their formula or choice. Maybe try Naviwax, its designed for very soft japanese paint. Can be applied wet.

 

[swanicyouth]

Well I dont know a whole lot about Exo for cleaning. Its nothing like a scratch resistant coating like OC, Cquartz, or C1. Think of it as a super durable wax/sealant. I know Eraser and IPA wont take it off, but Alkaline cleaner will. So maybe an APC would do, I haven't used Iron-X or anything like that yet on it. It's kinda hard to say if the clay takes it off. I was a little preoccupied at the time, but I will try on my other car with it maybe today or tomorrow.

At first, when it wasn't beading on the sides, I thought it was just the dirt. After the wash; during the rinse I noticed it wasn't beading at all, let alone like the rest of the car was.

It will be interesting to see how this stuff really holds up and performs like its claimed to. It not a very old product, only out for a year now. Unless you are driving through really acidic mud, I can't really think of a harsher climate than I live in here. Road salts eat through everything here. So I will keep an eye on it and see what happens. TBH I think my other car has the same issues with the coating.

This seems like a case of how real world conditions show how good a product really is. For what it is, EXO is an expensive product. However, I had a similar experience with OptiCoat so I know how you feel - PO'd. I just think with a lot of these "miracle" products there is to many variables to predict how long they will actually last or how well they will actually work on any given paint system.

The problem as I see it, is other than beading, we in the real world have no idea how well any of these products are protecting the finish of the car. Also, a lot of washes and drying aids leave behind a little something that can promote beading for a while. So when you see no beading when the car is dirty, its hard to know if the product you used to clean it brought the beading "back" or the coating is still intact.

Now if your dealing with a standard wax and sealant - no big deal. Most people on here who care are just going to reapply those products anyway on a rotating basis anyway. But when your talking about a LSP that can cost $100 for one or two applications only lasting 2 months on certain panels, that's horrible. Especially when the product is advertised as lasting up to 2 years

So there may be some people, somewhere who are getting close to the claimed durability out of the product. The issue is though, your not the only one who has had this problem. So, who knows what's causing the shortened durability? All we know is that it does happen and its not predictable who it will happen to or when it will happen.

Just seems like too many questions and variables for a product that is marketed as offering longer protection than conventional products and a much higher price to match.

Maybe they should offer some type of warranty or satisfaction guarantee. As, this is one of the few (if only) product types I can think of that costs $100 where you are just S.O.L. If it stops working 2 months after purchase.

 

[Chris's FX4]

There's those Foose wheels again...

... sorry, I had to. :laughing:

Sorry to hear the trouble you're having Andrew. I must say, I'm really shocked at the results of Exo. I really would expect more out of this product.

I seriously wonder now what testing processes products go through to come up with the claim of how long they last.

 

[Andr3wilson]

I have a 2010 Subaru in the fleet, the paint is so soft the compound I tried on it stuck in the paint. The Japanese paint is very soft I think. Lexus was made in USA though right? Might be their formula or choice. Maybe try Naviwax, its designed for very soft japanese paint. Can be applied wet.

Its actually made in Japan. I am not too familiar with the paint system they employ... other than its not the best.

Thanks! I will look into the recommendation, right now purple haze has come out really good on it.

This seems like a case of how real world conditions show how good a product really is. For what it is, EXO is an expensive product. However, I had a similar experience with OptiCoat so I know how you feel - PO'd. I just think with a lot of these "miracle" products there is to many variables to predict how long they will actually last or how well they will actually work on any given paint system.

The problem as I see it, is other than beading, we in the real world have no idea how well any of these products are protecting the finish of the car. Also, a lot of washes and drying aids leave behind a little something that can promote beading for a while. So when you see no beading when the car is dirty, its hard to know if the product you used to clean it brought the beading "back" or the coating is still intact.

Now if your dealing with a standard wax and sealant - no big deal. Most people on here who care are just going to reapply those products anyway on a rotating basis anyway. But when your talking about a LSP that can cost $100 for one or two applications only lasting 2 months on certain panels, that's horrible. Especially when the product is advertised as lasting up to 2 years

So there may be some people, somewhere who are getting close to the claimed durability out of the product. The issue is though, your not the only one who has had this problem. So, who knows what's causing the shortened durability? All we know is that it does happen and its not predictable who it will happen to or when it will happen.

Just seems like too many questions and variables for a product that is marketed as offering longer protection than conventional products and a much higher price to match.

Maybe they should offer some type of warranty or satisfaction guarantee. As, this is one of the few (if only) product types I can think of that costs $100 where you are just S.O.L. If it stops working 2 months after purchase.

I think when they say it will last two years, they mean in a warm climate where at worst all you get is rain. I have heard enough complaints about OC that I am trying Cquartz (heard complaints about that too) and Gtechniq C1 (hopefully its a little better than Exo!)

It was an expensive mistake, and tbh the best value sealant I have used so far is SV Shield. Thats it.

So I am a little disappointed with Exo to say the least. I just spent the past 12 hours doing a full correction to pull the swirls out and make it perfect again. Better success today!!

There's those Foose wheels again...

... sorry, I had to. :laughing:

Sorry to hear the trouble you're having Andrew. I must say, I'm really shocked at the results of Exo. I really would expect more out of this product.

I seriously wonder now what testing processes products go through to come up with the claim of how long they last.

Come on! How do you make a soccer-mom-mobile look like its got a ball! :laughing:

I have come to the conclusion, even though there has been a plethora of nano coats and coatings come onto the market, sticking to the wax/paint sealant is by far the best way to go!

I find sometimes with testing, companies make things work in the lab to have the marketability... but not much for real world testing!

 

[Flatlander]

Andr3,
I did a little research and I found this thread over in the UK. Rob occasionally posts on here. I'm surprised they haven't responded to this thread actually. Anyway, I believe this post may help. I guess the "organic layer" on top of exo is fairly fragile and can be clayed off, leaving the inorganic layer intact underneath. I bet that's what happened to you. Apparently, all you may have needed was some c1.5 sealant to restore the beading. I can't believe that the salt stripped the entire coating. So, that's what I'm thinking.
Also, the application process is a bit temperature sensitive as well. Apparently, the panels need to be 70ºF during application. Just some thoughts. Sorry about the bad day. Damn that Lexus paint is soft!
- Mike

 

[SON1C]

Purple haze pro which is what you have if you got it on the recent bogo is a hybrid wax a pretty durable, use it, you'll love it for ease of use etc, it doesn't provide a jaw dropping look though imo

 

[Johny B]

Sorry to hear the trouble you're having Andrew. I must say, I'm really shocked at the results of Exo. I really would expect more out of this product.

I seriously wonder now what testing processes products go through to come up with the claim of how long they last.

:iagree:

 

[Andr3wilson]

Andr3,
I did a little research and I found this thread over in the UK. Rob occasionally posts on here. I'm surprised they haven't responded to this thread actually. Anyway, I believe this post may help. I guess the "organic layer" on top of exo is fairly fragile and can be clayed off, leaving the inorganic layer intact underneath. I bet that's what happened to you. Apparently, all you may have needed was some c1.5 sealant to restore the beading. I can't believe that the salt stripped the entire coating. So, that's what I'm thinking.
Also, the application process is a bit temperature sensitive as well. Apparently, the panels need to be 70ºF during application. Just some thoughts. Sorry about the bad day. Damn that Lexus paint is soft!
- Mike

I don't want to write Exo off yet, not many people have had issues like me; on the other hand not many people have to deal with Edmonton's free rust creation. As far as the Lexus went, I had a good nights rest and started again the next day with fresh MFs and had much better results. Check my gallery here and the home page.

Purple haze pro which is what you have if you got it on the recent bogo is a hybrid wax a pretty durable, use it, you'll love it for ease of use etc, it doesn't provide a jaw dropping look though imo

It was actually this wax that sold me on Dodos. I have a 6 pack coming; all minus PH and BV. I also got the basics of bling protection wax. Excited to give them a whirl!

:iagree:

Thanks man