Does Megs #7 Work On Clearcoat?

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Drummer1

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Hello,

I purchased Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze to apply on my 2006 Toyota 4Runner Salsa Red Pearl and was wondering if it will work on newer paint with clear coat. I have read many posts on this site and most recommend applying it to a 1 stage paint. Please give me your recommendations and direction if it is worth the time applying this glaze. I was planning on applying Meguiar's #26 Hi-Tech Liquid Wax on top of the #7. Feed back please

Thanks!
 
Drummer1 said:
Hello,

I purchased Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze to apply on my 2006 Toyota 4Runner Salsa Red Pearl and was wondering if it will work on newer paint with clear coat. I have read many posts on this site and most recommend applying it to a 1 stage paint. Please give me your recommendations and direction if it is worth the time applying this glaze. I was planning on applying Meguiar's #26 Hi-Tech Liquid Wax on top of the #7. Feed back please

Thanks!
Click to expand...
Yea...It's been stated by many that Meg's #7 was formulated for/works best on SS-paint...

However, IMHO...(when it comes to BC/CC paint systems)...
-Depends on whether one believes CC-paint is porous...at least to some degree, or another. Or, not.
-I just so happen to be a believer that it does have porosity.


My understanding:
(from basically being around different BC/CC paint systems since their inception)

-When a factory baked-on CC first leaves the assembly line...
It's at its most densest/least porous...(but still porous to some extent.)

-Over time and being subjected to: "The Elements" (natural & manmade),
car-washing/drying/polishing/waxing/etc...
CC-paint will become less dense/even more porous.

Now...
With your "2006 Toyota 4Runner Salsa Red Pearl" CC-paint being between 6-7 years old...
and, IMHO...having more porosity than ever before...

-Will, therefore, (I sincerely believe):
Make it a great candidate for the #26 atop #7 regimen.

Fact:
I use the same #7/#26 Rx on some of my vehicles that have less accumulative:
"outside-the-assembly-line" time...With outstanding results, I'll add!!

:)

Bob
 
PapaSmurf said:
Yes it is compatible on cc paints. I just talked to a Meguiars tech on the phone today about this.
Click to expand...

Thanks for doing so! :props:

Good to hear it from the Product's Reps...
Reinforces my thoughts.

:)

Bob
 
While I haven't used #7 in many years, I have used it a few times on CC Paints, and it does work.

But what I've always found with the few times I used #7, was a product that will literally work you to death by hand. I tried it, didn't like it, came back to it again a few years later, and the same thing, an absolute brutal product to work with.

I have always found the 3M products like Imperial Glaze, or Perfect-It Glaze were much easier to remove, and also gave outstanding final results. Mark
 
FUNX725 said:
Yea...It's been stated by many that Meg's #7 was formulated for/works best on SS-paint...

However, IMHO...(when it comes to BC/CC paint systems)...
-Depends on whether one believes CC-paint is porous...at least to some degree, or another. Or, not.
-I just so happen to be a believer that it does have porosity.


My understanding:
(from basically being around different BC/CC paint systems since their inception)

-When a factory baked-on CC first leaves the assembly line...
It's at its most densest/least porous...(but still porous to some extent.)

-Over time and being subjected to: "The Elements" (natural & manmade),
car-washing/drying/polishing/waxing/etc...
CC-paint will become less dense/even more porous.

Now...
With your "2006 Toyota 4Runner Salsa Red Pearl" CC-paint being between 6-7 years old...
and, IMHO...having more porosity than ever before...

-Will, therefore, (I sincerely believe):
Make it a great candidate for the #26 atop #7 regimen.

Fact:
I use the same #7/#26 Rx on some of my vehicles that have less accumulative:
"outside-the-assembly-line" time...With outstanding results, I'll add!!

:)

Bob
Click to expand...
Thanks for the helpful information and answering my concern. I did forget to mention that I just had my car repainted two weeks ago from the grille to the back hatch due to the clear coat peeling and flaking off badly. Sorry for leaving that detail out.
 
MarkD51 said:
I have always found the 3M products like Imperial Glaze, or Perfect-It Glaze were much easier to remove, and also gave outstanding final results. Mark
Click to expand...

Hmmm where can I find those products you mentioned?
 
As Drummer has mentioned, they carry these products right here.

But, if you're in a pinch, want such products in a real hurry, commonly most good Auto Paint Supply Shops will carry a good Selection of 3M products.

I've used such 3M products I earlier mentioned with great results on things like Drum Finishes-Wraps, Electric Guitars, and Basses paint finishes, and even thing like Turntable Dust Covers, and Acrylics.
 
Drummer1 said:
Thanks for the helpful information and answering my concern. I did forget to mention that I just had my car repainted two weeks ago from the grille to the back hatch due to the clear coat peeling and flaking off badly. Sorry for leaving that detail out.
Click to expand...
You may have to wait a few more weeks to "seal" the paint with a wax like #26,
or similar LSP's... until the "new paint" has had time to sufficiently cure.

You can still use Meg's #7 or 3M IHG in the meantime.

BTW: What has the painter said the cure-time will be?

:)

Bob
 
Drummer1 said:
Thanks for the helpful information and answering my concern. I did forget to mention that I just had my car repainted two weeks ago from the grille to the back hatch due to the clear coat peeling and flaking off badly. Sorry for leaving that detail out.
Click to expand...


The below can be found under the section heading in my Article List named,



Articles on Car Paint


Don't wax your car for at least 30 days!

Fresh Paint - But you can touch it...

Body Shop Safe Glaze on Fresh Paint - #7 Show Car Glaze


:xyxthumbs:
 
Here's one of the article in its entirity...

Body Shop Safe Glaze on Fresh Paint - #7 Show Car Glaze


A common procedure for fresh paint is to hand or machine glaze the paint after any wetsanding, cutting and buffing has been performed.

Fresh Paint = Less than 30 days since it was sprayed

In most cases, fresh paint is sanded, buffed and glazed within a few days after being sprayed, before the owner picks up the car. For the glazing process you need to use a product that is "Body Shop Safe", that means there are no ingredients that will contaminate a fresh paint environment and cause surface adhesion problems for the new paint.

One type of surface adhesion problem is called "Fish Eyes" and that's where some type of contaminant remains on the prepped surface at the time the paint is sprayed and the surface tension created by the contaminant prevents paint from sticking to that area, so the paint pile up around the contaminated area and creates a circle without paint and because of the appearance after the paint dries, this type of defect has been given the name... "Fish Eye".


Two of the most well known Body Shop Safe glazes in the refinishing industry are

Meguiar's M07 Show Car Glaze
3M Imperial Hand Glaze


While they do the same job and while 3M has purchased Meguiar's, the formulas are very different and the formula for #7 Show Car Glaze goes back to the 1920's easily.


We had two hood painted just this week, in fact they were sprayed late Wednesday night. I picked them up in my truck on Thursday.


Today is Friday, this means the paint on this hood is less than 48 hours old.

Some people think that you cannot put any type of chemical or product on fresh paint until it's at least 30 days old and they're close... the rule of thumb is to not seal the paint with any type of wax or paint sealant for 30 days.

That doesn't mean you cannot use "Body Shop Safe" products on fresh paint and all across the land in body shops every day there are people pouring all kinds of chemicals on fresh paint and then compounding, polishing and glazing the paint.

As long as the paint is set-up and hardened enough to work on you can start working on it and thus pour body shop safe products on it that enable you perform whatever procedure it is you're doing.

To drive this point home, here are a few pictures of fresh paint, less than 48 hours old being hand glazed.


Fresh paint less than 48 hours old...
GlazeFreshPaint001.jpg



3M Imperial Hand Glaze and Meguiar's #7 Show Car Glaze
GlazeFreshPaint002.jpg



Pouring out #7 Show Car Glaze onto brand new fresh paint
GlazeFreshPaint003.jpg



Carefully spreading out #7 Show Car Glaze with a clean foam applicator pad
GlazeFreshPaint004.jpg



The hood is completely glazed...
GlazeFreshPaint005.jpg



Close-up... #7 has an oily sheen...
GlazeFreshPaint006.jpg



No need to let the glaze dry, in fact you want to wipe it off right after you apply it and work it in...
GlazeFreshPaint007.jpg



Wiped-off and a reflection shot of a bottle of #7 in the glazed paint...
GlazeFreshPaint008.jpg



Glazed Fresh Paint...
GlazeFreshPaint009.jpg



Reflection shot...
GlazeFreshPaint010.jpg



I hope this has shed a little light on fresh paint, glazing and body shop safe products...


:xyxthumbs:
 
I have some info that relates to using #7 on clear coat paints but you have to do a little searching and then reading to find it. Some of the info came from chemists.

Click these words to do an Advanced Search


Then type in this word,

Interstices


You can also use Google and type in the words

Interstices Mike Phillips



:)
 
FUNX725 said:
My understanding:
(from basically being around different BC/CC paint systems since their inception)

-When a factory baked-on CC first leaves the assembly line...
It's at its most densest/least porous...(but still porous to some extent.)

-Over time and being subjected to: "The Elements" (natural & manmade),
car-washing/drying/polishing/waxing/etc...
CC-paint will become less dense/even more porous.


Bob
Click to expand...


Excellent info Bob.

As paint ages it become more open and interstices or microscopic fractures or cracks take place in the paint.

When paint is brand new it is impermeable. As paint ages it becomes more permeable.


Two more words you read about by doing an Advanced Search



Impermeable Permeable


You can also type the below words into Google to find articles where I've discussed this.

Impermeable Permeable Mike Phillips


:)
 
FUNX725 said:
You may have to wait a few more weeks to "seal" the paint with a wax like #26,
or similar LSP's... until the "new paint" has had time to sufficiently cure.

You can still use Meg's #7 or 3M IHG in the meantime.

BTW: What has the painter said the cure-time will be?

:)

Bob
Click to expand...

The painter actually told me that I could wax it immediately which surprised me after hearing that it is recommended to wait 30 days or longer on this site and Autopia.
 
MarkD51 said:
While I haven't used #7 in many years, I have used it a few times on CC Paints, and it does work.

But what I've always found with the few times I used #7, was a product that will literally work you to death by hand. I tried it, didn't like it, came back to it again a few years later, and the same thing, an absolute brutal product to work with.

I have always found the 3M products like Imperial Glaze, or Perfect-It Glaze were much easier to remove, and also gave outstanding final results. Mark
Click to expand...

Ya but those 3m products have abrasives in them so its apples and oranges. 07 is pure oil, no paint cleaning ability or abrasives. My opinion on it is it does work but it doesn't last even a week. Actually thats not even an opinion its fact. The stuff wears off quick whether its under wax or not
 
fightnews said:
Ya but those 3m products have abrasives in them so its apples and oranges. 07 is pure oil, no paint cleaning ability or abrasives. My opinion on it is it does work but it doesn't last even a week. Actually thats not even an opinion its fact. The stuff wears off quick whether its under wax or not
Click to expand...

Less than a week?! Then what good is it? I've got a brand new container but if it's hard to use and doesn't last but a few days, I think I'll try to unload it some how...... dang!!
 
shagnat said:
Less than a week?! Then what good is it? I've got a brand new container but if it's hard to use and doesn't last but a few days, I think I'll try to unload it some how...... dang!!
Click to expand...

I'll take the #7 if you want to get rid of it.
 
better to ask the painter what brand clear coat he used and then follow the recommendations from the manufacturer when to wax. hope this helps. :)
 
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